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John

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Posts posted by John

  1. because I'm not using motorised scope to track the target, so for more power eps I may enjoy the view longer if I choose ethos. unless if my scope is automatic tracking then I would just choose delos/naggler.

    I use Ethos eyepieces for just this reason. The 6mm is an excellent high power eyepiece. They are very expensive though and the Explore Scientific 100 degree eyepieces are so very close in performance for considerably less outlay if you get hooked on 100 degree eyepieces. ES have recently released a 5.5mm in this series which is getting good feedback on another forum.

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  2. So if I have a 6" scope it will show up diffraction spikes and atmospheric effects whereas a 2" scope won't?

    Or put another way if I have a 6" scope it's resolution is 1" while a 2" scope has a resolution of 3" so it presumably removes effects smaller than 3"? If that's the case though then is the improvement real? For example if I was using a 150mm / 1000 scope with a dslr with 5µ pixels that is 1" resolution from both scope and camera. I could stop the aperture down to 50mm to overcome effects but couldn't I just as well use 3x3 binning to obtain the same effect but not lose the light gathering power?

    I don't know how it applies to imaging as I only do visual observing.

    I have an aperture mask with a 4" hole which is the largest I can use with my 12" dobsonian. Using this I get the effective performance of a 4" unobstructed scope with a focal length of 1590mm so F/15.5. 

    As I already have a rather nice 4" ED refractor which is actually much smaller and lighter than my 12" dob, it makes more sense for me to get that scope out if the seeing conditions are not good enough for the dob to make use of it's full aperture.

  3. Why should that be the case? Reducing the aperture reduces resolution so why should a smaller aperture improve the view.

    The smaller aperture reduces the effects of atmospheric disturbance and in the case of newtonians the diffraction caused by the secondary and it's supports so the image you do see does seem sharp and steadier. You are quite right though that the resolution and light grasp of the instrument are reduced the the size of the hole in the cap so in most cases you now have a 2" or smaller aperture scope so the amount of contrast, detail and resolution you will see will be reduced to that level as well. There is no "free lunch" so to speak !

  4. I think I would keep the SW 114/900.

    I'd agree. I tried to collimate one of the Bird-Jones 114mm "catadioptrics" once and it was a nightmare because of the corrector lens inside the drawtube and the short focal length spherical primary. 

    They were available under lots of brand names un the 1970's and 1980's including Tasco, Prinz, Revue, Greenkat, etc, etc.

    They were one of what used to be termed "department store" telescopes. It wasn't a compliment ....

  5. Luke and Sarah (members here) were using a 35mm Panoptic with their 12" and then 16" Skywatcher dobs and felt the views with the Pan suddenly seemed "washed out" when they moved to a 21mm Ethos so I reckon an overlarge exit pupil is probably to be avoided to get optimum contrast on deep sky objects. 

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  6. Thanks Alex. This seems doable actually. Having looked around though the only 12" dobs I could find were flexitube and I am actually after a solid tube. Any idea where to get the 12" Skyliner from?

    I think the solid tube Skywatcher 12" went out of production a couple of years back. Shame because that would be my preference if I was looking for a 12" dob right now. It was less expensive than the Flextube is too.

  7. Orion Optics are wholly made in the UK.

    Orion (USA) dobs are made by Synta in China who own and make Skywatcher scopes and Celestron scopes, amongst others.

    Orion Optics scopes are much more expensive to buy new than their chinese made equivalents but offer a range of focal lengths, tube and mirror specifications. They are quite reasonable to buy on the used market though and thats how I bought the OO scopes that I've owned including my current 12" F/5.3 :smiley:

  8. I would say they are plossls, there is a trend for bundling better quality ep's at the moment, anyway, it's how they perform that counts in my opinion.

    I agree - I reckon they are both plossls - the 10mm has a "P" visible despite the faded printing. They are multi-coated rather than fully multi-coated and there are numerous manufacturers in Taiwan and China who make this pattern of eyepiece. Eye relief will be as per the normal plossl which is around 80% of the focal length in mm I believe.

    These are an improvement over the 3 element MA types.

  9. These are my 2 cases. Top my wide fields and general viewing. Lower is the specialty case with the planetaries should the conditions be good enough to take advantage. Many times I just go out wth the second case as it is smaller, lighter, and gets the job done.post-31982-0-56523900-1379178336_thumb.j

    Very nice :smiley:

    The top row in the second case has some class acts in it (all of them in fact !). Don't see many AP SPL's over here :smiley:

  10. I've not posted in this thread for a while and I now reckon I've completed my eyepiece buying for the foreseeable future (yes, really !) I thought I'd post a pic of where I've got to. In the big case are the 31mm Nagler, 20mm ES 100, 13mm, 8mm and 6mm Ethos's plus the 6mm Baader GO. The filters are the 2" Astromik O-III and a 1.25" 1000 Oaks H-Beta which is on loan from Mark at Beaufort. In the smaller case are the Pentax XW 5mm, Radian 4mm, XW 3.5mm and Radian 3mm.

    With my scopes I think that's covered all eventualities :smiley:

    post-118-0-87963300-1374350630_thumb.jpg

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