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John

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Posts posted by John

  1. I used the 8-inch for 9 years and could have happily have gone longer as there were still so many things I hadn't seen with it, but figured if I was ever going to get into the heavy-duty league then I ought to do it before I was too old.

    This is exactly the stage that I am at as well. I sold my 8" F/6 Skywatcher dobsonian and got a 12" Meade Lightbridge dob. I don't regret doing this but I have not been able to use the larger scope as much as I did the 8" because the latter was practically a "grab and go" scope. At F/6 the 8" was easier to keep in collimation as well.

    That said I think the 12" scope is the first I've had that really starts to show the brighter DSO's like they look in pictures - globular clusters in particular are stunning with a foot of aperture :)

    John

    • Like 1
  2. I have quite a lot of lateral lighting to contend with until around midnight and my neighbours go to bed and switch their lights off.

    This light has a tendancy to find it's way into the top of the OTA of my Meade Lightbridge 12" dobsonian and causes a noticable drop in contrast when the scope is pointing at certain angles.

    I'd like to get or make a light shield (similar to a dew shield) to put on the top end of the scope to reduce / remove this issue. I'm guessing that I will need one around 18" tall to be really effective in shielding the secondary - does that sound about the right height ?.

    I'm also going to need something that goes right around the OTA (rather than the partial one that Astro Engineering make) because my unwanted light comes from a number of directions (including my own house when my family are still awake ;)).

    Has anyone made anthing like this and, if so, could you share the details. I'd prefer something a light as possible because the Lightbridge is already rather "top heavy" especially with a 2" Nagler eyepiece in the drawtube !.

    Would commercially available dew shields be appropriate ? - I saw one of these being used at the SGL4 Star Party but that was on a SW Flextube 12" and I wonder what it's (the dew shields) weight was.

    All suggestions and further ideas welcomed :icon_rolleyes:

    Thanks,

    John

  3. My 1st view of Saturn was though a 60mm refractor about 28 years ago ! - I simply could not believe what I was seeing - so beautiful even through that small scope.

    I showed my neighbours the planet with a 6 inch scope a few years back and they thought I had stuck a picture of Saturn on the front of the scope !.

    It's a wonderful sight, even with the rings almost edge on. Titan is quite easy to spot even with small scopes. With my 4 inch refractor I can make out 4 moons on a good night.

    John

  4. Hi Andrew,

    I've not tried one of these but Pentax EP's generally have a great reputation and a few years ago the .965 inch Pentax ortho's were highly sought after as planetary eyepieces. My guess would be that it would be a fine performer. At £80 used it is not cheap though and it might be worth having a look at other options in that niche as well - Burgess / TMB Planetaries, and the new William Optics SPL's for a start - both are cheaper new than this Pentax and might offer benefits such as better eye relief.

    John.

    • Like 1
  5. Well I'm new to C8 ownership and mine is a 1994 model but, apart from the 3 screws holding the focusser knob in place I can't see any other screws / nuts on the rear cell of the OTA at all. Maybe it's an error in the instructions or they apply to a different model of SCT :lol:

    Incidentally I had the same fun with collimation - mine was way out at 1st light and it took about 30mins of fiddling to get it to an acceptable state. I don't have Bob's Knobs fitted yet but will soon !. I found the scope needed at least 45 mins to reach ambient temperature and during that time the out of focus star image that I was using for collimation showed a distinct heat plume. Once I'd finished fiddling though the views of Saturn were very satisfying though so it was well worth the effort and I think I can improve on the collimation further in due course. From now on I'm also going to allow an hour for cool down as well.

    John

  6. My 1960's Tasco 60mm f13 Alt-Az refractor in it's wooden trunk. My first scope which I purchased 2nd hand around 1981. It's mount and tripod are not good and the 2 eyepieces that came with it frankly awful. The breakthrough came when I started using the eyepiece from a discarded pair of 8x30 binoculars in the scope - it was a kellner design with a focal length of about 16mm - with no field stop - hardly ideal but a big step up from the Huygenian EP's that came with the scope - I now found some of the brighter Messier objects and felt very proud !!. This scope also showed me my first telecsopic view of Saturn, which, as with many folk, got me hooked on astronomy.

    I reckon that these older Tasco scopes generally have good optics - they just need half decent eyepieces (ie: not those supplied with the scopes) to show it. One day I'll mount the OTA on a good mount and see what it can do with my Tele Vue plossls.

    Can't see me parting with this somehow - definately for sentimental reasons.

    John,

    North Somerset

    • Like 1
  7. Sorry I did not chip in earlier on the formula but Gaz's post a few back sets it out well. The Tele Vue web site (www.televue.com) has lots of useful info and fomulas regarding eyepieces (inclding general stuff - not just their own products).

    The issue has also been confused over the years by some eyepiece manufacturers claiming fields of view for their eyepieces which they did not deliver in reality. An example of this is the Celestron 32mm Erfle (31.7mm fitting) which was marketed in the 1980's as having a 65 degree apparent field. I finally got to own one of these a few years back and found that it's field was the same (slightly less actually) as my Taiwanese 32mm Plossl - around 50 degrees. Even when I removed the field stop from the inside of the chrome barrel the Erfle's field was only about 52 degrees - the same as the Meade 32mm 4000 series plossl as it happens - another illusion shattered - I had wanted one of those Erfles for about 10 years !.

    John,

    North Somerset

  8. My understanding is that the field of view of any eyepiece is ultimately limited by the internal diameter of it's barrel. In the 31.7mm format this is about 29mm. Because of this limitation, as the focal length of the eyepiece increases the maximum apparent field (AF) that can be achieved decreases - in 31.7mm format at 40mm, 44 degrees AF is possible, at 32mm, 52 degrees at 25mm, 70 degrees is possible and so on. I used to own a 10mm ultra wide field modified plossl design that offered 84 degrees and I think you can get a Nagler in 13mm in 31.7mm format which offers 82 degrees. If someone offers an 80 degree, 32mm eyepiece in the 31.7mm fitting I'd love to know how they do it !.

    John,

    North Somerset

  9. I was following an e.bay ad for a 32mm Konig last week and actually bid for it - I got beaten by about 10 pence with 0.5 secs to go - hmmmm....

    The only thing is that this was a 1.25 inch eyepiece and UK based although it looks like a 2 inch - the body is over 2 inches wide and the eyelens is about 45mm across. They offer the widest field available in 1.25 inch format but need 0.8 inch inward focusser travel compared with a standard plossl because the field stop is placed in the body of the eyepiece rather than in the chrome barrel as per most eyepieces.

    I believe the field is around 52 degrees.

    I wonder if this was the same eyepiece ?.

    John,

    North Somerset

  10. On the Bresser vs Celestron issue, having looked at the specs of both instruments both are made in China, although probably by different manufacturers. The Celestron looks like a Synta clone and the Bresser looks like it's out of the same factory as the 127mm refractors sold by Skys the Limit via e.bay. Interestingly the latter factory is also supposed to make the Meade AR55 5 inch refractors as well. In the past Bresser has been a brand name that does well in continental Europe while Celestron tends to be preferred in the USA and the UK. In the past virtually identical models have been sold under both brand names. Sometimes the accessories supplied with the scopes vary so it is worth checking exactly what you get.

    Having owned 2 types of 4 inch refractors in the past - a Bresser 102mm (then made in Japan by Vixen) and more recently a TAL 100R (russian) I can vouch that they make good beginners scopes and provide great views of planets, double stars and the moon. Views of deep sky objects (ie: Messiers etc) are nice but ultimately 4 inches of apeture will limit the detail that can be seen. All the instruments talked about so far have a focal ratio of f10. Shorter focal ratio 4 inch refractors (in this budget range) will not be so good on the planets and double stars. One warning I would give to a prospective owner of an f10 4 inch refrator is to get one with a tall tripod. When looking at objects overhead it's not uncommon for the eyepiece to be only a couple of feet above the ground which can mean some gymnastics to get a decent view !. Also a 4 inch f10 refractor in an equatorial mount is still quite a heavy telescope.

    It is for these last reasons (having back problems I can't manage the gymnastics) that I have recently sold my refractor and moved on to a 5 inch Schmidt Cassegrain on a fork mounting - in my case the Celestron Nexstar 5. I have been delighted with this scope as i) it's very portable ii) it provides noticably better images than my 4 inch refactors did on both planets and deep sky objects and iii) the eyepiece height is always convenient. All in all I can highly recommend these - it cost me £300 in excellent used condition - this was a particularly good deal though. Schmidt Cassegrains do need collimation (adjusting mirror alignment) from time to time as well like other mirror-based designs.

    John,

    North Somerset.

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