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John

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Posts posted by John

  1. I think dewing depends to some extent on location. At home I hardly ever have dewing problems with my refractors but at my society observatory (about 6 miles from my home) I need to use dew shields.

    SCT's and maksutovs need dew prevention even at home though.

    My Kruppax tubed 130mm frac seems to be totally immune from dewing - apparently something to do with the properties of Kruppax.

    • Thanks 1
  2. You have had some great replies already :smiley:

    Your 16 inch dob should be providing superb planetary views from your location at 200x - 250x or more. I would suspect that a collimation check and adjustment might be in order.

    I find tracking at high power no problem with my undriven 12 inch dob. I do use eyepieces with wide fields of view though, which helps :smiley:

    200x - 300x tracking is entirely possible with my dob using the "nudge-let drift, nudge-let drift, etc, etc" approach.

  3. The Tak is an astro scope so I use it as such. I use my Vixen ED102SS with the Lunt HW as well and it's very good, but the Tak is even better. My understanding is that the Suns light passes through the objective and is bought to focus either 900mm or 633mm away and thats where the heat is and also where the componant that is designed to cope with it is located :icon_biggrin: 

    Thanks for the comments on the borders - they are my other half's doing rather than mine !

     

     

     

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  4. On 19/11/2019 at 14:06, Grumpy Martian said:

    Thanks. That's the one. I made a mistake saying that it was an inch in diameter. 

    Any idea where I could buy one?. 

    How would I correctly describe it. 

    I think these were used on the early HEQ5 mounts. Not sure that they are available new :icon_scratch:

    A "wanted" advert on UK Astro Buy & Sell might be worth a try.

  5. 52 minutes ago, Totally_Computerized said:

    I mean the reason I came here was because I got shot down in flames on reddit for trying to ask the same questions as I have here . I do understand real AP though its expensive,  time consuming,  and can be frustrating. 

    Ive had my make every photon book for four years , ive tried to take as long as possible to make a decision on a telescope because iam an impulse buyer , but ive spent alot of my 39 years looking up , and so i want to take that up a level . I really want to do some AP but not at a serious level because truth be told I cant afford it , nor have the time . But I dont want that to hold me back to do some basic AP . I definitely wouldnt be going out buying a £800 camera to use with a dobby , but as ive already got a dslr ......... Anyway , iam going to buy my scope next week hopefully may be a sale on somewhere , i still have a ton of questions about clip in filters for light pollution and moon filters and stuff but you guys are probably tired from reading all this anyway !

    What scope does the book recommend to get started in imaging ?

    Probably not a 200P dobsonian to be honest with you.

    There might be better choices that will enable you to graduate more smoothly from some visual experiences to imaging. The optical tube from the 200P dobsonian can be removed from the dob mount and put onto an equatorial mount but you will need a pretty heavy duty mount for imaging purposes because the dob optical tube is an F/6 wheras the one that comes on the equatorial mount is F/5 (shorter).

    Perhaps just hold back a little while longer from actually commiting to a scope ?. You won't get shot down in flames here, just lots of good advice :icon_biggrin:

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. Hi and welcome to the forum !

    Do I take it that you are getting the Skywatcher 200P dobsonian ?

    The Telrad is extremely good and an excellent addition to a dobsonian. It does make star hopping much easier. Having a good star atlas helps as well !

    Can't help you with the imaging because I'm a visual observer but many on this forum do image so help will be at hand on that soon !

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. Brief 1st light for both the 12mm and 17mm tonight. The eye relief is slightly longer than the eye cup. Finding the correct eye positioning seemed to be more critical than for the 21mm and 13mm Ethos but I do have years of experience with those and just 20 minutes or so with the ES 92's !

    The views were very immersive, more so than both the above Ethos. The ES 92's seem to "lift" the star field towards my eye more than the Ethos does. Not sure why - perhaps the massive eye lens and longer eye relief ?

    The Ethos might have been a tiny touch sharper right across the field but the ES 92's seemed very well corrected in my F/5.3 dob too. As far as conditions would allow, light transmission and sky background darkness seemed to match the Ethos. Seeing conditions were far from perfect though (quite poor really) and I only had time to check out the double cluster and the M31 / 32 / 110 group before clouds intervened.

    It's probably fairer to compare my Delos 17.3 to the ES 92 17mm rather than the Ethos 21 as the F/L difference will impact the views so it's not quite a level playing field.

    Roll on a proper session under good skies ! smile.gif

    • Like 5
  8. 1 hour ago, johnturley said:

    Have ordered an 11mm Type 6 Nagler from Telescope House while Tele Vue eyepieces are on special offer and the 11mm is still available. I was advised by another retailer that Tele Vue had discontinued production of this eyepiece, and was initially a bit surprised by this, but subsequently found that its no longer listed on Tele Vue's website, hence wondered whether this has anything to do with the production of their limited edition 11mm Apollo eyepiece. 

     

    I will find it interesting comparing this eyepiece with my existing 11m ES 82 degree eyepiece, and establishing whether the Nagler is significantly superior, if I find a major difference I may gradually replace my ES 82's by Type 6 Naglers.

     

    John 

    Thats interesting. The 11mm Type 6 does not appear on the Tele Vue website now so it looks like it has been dropped:

    http://www.televue.com/engine/TV3b_page.asp?id=21

    The 11mm is the only T6 Nagler that I have not owned !

    I used to skip straight from the 13mm to the 9mm. Maybe others did the same so the 11 was not a good seller ?. I'm sure it's quality is as good as the other T6's though.

    All I've read on the Apollo 11 eyepiece indicates that it's a one off and not the advance guard of a new Nagler range. Time will tell of course :smiley:

  9.  

    16 minutes ago, Deisler said:

    Thank you. Certainly interesting stuff for me to learn.

    I did find 'seagull' pattern at the edge of the view - it did not bother me that much as I don't really look for them.

    Did not notice Coma - I will try to see if I can find them. 

     

    Is there a way to mitigate the 'diffraction spikes' as I found them distract my view a lot, particularly for those dim stars next to a very bright one?

    Coma won't be very obvious in an F/6 newtonian. I hardly notice it with my F/5.3 and that is when using 100 degree eyepieces.

    Diffraction spikes around beighter point sources are caused by the vanes holding the secondary support in place. It is possible to reduce their visual impact by replacing the 4 straight vane design with a curved vane design but that is quite an operation to carry out even if you can source suitable replacement vanes.

    Even with curved vanes diffraction is still there but it is spread over the field of view:

    image.png.090dcb818be96dc4276a0eef671ca57b.png

    M110 is much fainter than M31. M32 is more of a small fuzzy star. M31 looks like a brightish oval patch of light. Seeing the dust lane structure is not at all easy - you need really dark skies to pick out that.

     

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  10. I moved from a Baader solar film filter to a herschel wedge and found the difference subtle but noticable especially if the observing conditions are calm and the scope optics very good.

    I also feel that the wedge is a safer way to observe the Sun. If it falls off the back of the scope the eyepiece goes with it and the damage that the heat and light could do is restricted to possibly scorching your trousers. If an over the front type filter falls off or is knocked off (eg: at an outreach event) the 1st you will know of it if observing would be rather catastrophic.

     

    • Like 4
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