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John

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Posts posted by John

  1. 22 minutes ago, Geoff Barnes said:

    My first thought was that the moon is nearly full so there will be few if any shadows to give a detailed view.

    Better to view it in a week or so when the shadows along the terminator edge will be strong again.

    Thats true - it does get much more interesting when at a gibbous, half or crescent phase.

     

  2. The Powerseeker 114 has a focal length of 900mm so the 20mm eyepiece will be giving 45x magnification and should show nice views of the whole lunar disk. You need to ensure that you adjust the focus to get the clearest and sharpest view.

    Add a 3x barlow and you have 135x magnification which should still be nice if the seeing conditions are steady. You will need to adjust the focus again to get a sharp view.

    The 4mm eyepiece though gives 225x which is probably too much magnification for a clear view - you should see some portion of the lunar surface but it might not be steady or clear.

    The 3x barlow and the 4mm eyepiece gives 675x which is far, far too much magnification to get a clear or sharp image with the 114mm scope, or most other scopes for that matter.

    If you are not seeing any detail even with just the 20mm eyepiece in the scope then I suspect that you need to adjust the focus until you see a view a bit like this:

    image.png.c9caf55a8aebc78f54a7a22c1518330a.png

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, DaveL59 said:

    to help with eye relief can't you use the longer FL EP in a barlow and in effect have the same eye relief but a shorter FL and increased mag?

    So in a 2x barlow your 25mm would be 12.5mm equivalent. A 12mm EP would get you to 6mm etc.

    Just a thought as might save some funds and give easier viewing.

    A barlow lens actually increases the eye relief. This can be a blessing or a curse depending on your preferences.

     

  4. I think these are the same eyepieces optically but £40 less expensive and in less flashy bodies:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BFWFVNP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFZN0xVOTZHTDcxTTUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3MDIzOTYxNTVFVU1ONklUSU4wJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwNDE2MjYxVjE3WDYwV1c5V0M3JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

    They have been marketed under a lot of different brandings over the years including Skywatcher.  In your 8 inch F/5.9 dob they work quite well. The 9mm is the best one. Dont expect the stars at the field edges to be sharp though.

    I've owned and used a set quite happily but that was quite a few years back and my scope then was an F/10 5 inch schmidt cassegrain.

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. 39 minutes ago, MKHACHFE said:

    But surely you are not seeing them disappear and reappear within a session? Wouldn't that be insanely fast? Although nothing would surprise anymore when it concerns Jupiter. 😁

    Cheers

    You see reappearances or disappearences of a moon but not both on the same moon in the same session - passing behind Jupiter takes quite a few hours.

    One interesting effect is that the reappearence of a moon does not always happen exactly as predicted because the moon can remain in the shadow of Jupiter even when it's clear of the planets limb in a line of sight sense. Seeing a moon suddenly pop into view some distance away from the limb can give you a little surprise. Very occasionally two moons do this during a session:

    https://astrobob.areavoices.com/2011/12/29/jupiters-moons-reappear-out-of-thin-air-tonight/

    Observing for some time though mainly helps in discerning more subtle planetary features. Initially the view of Jupiter, for example, might just show the two main equatorial belts but over time your eye adjusts and begins to tease out further belts and also festoons, eddies and the red spot (if it is on our side of the planet). If conditions are decent you are usually able to see quite a bit more detail after an hour at the eyepiece than you saw when you first started to observe.

     

     

    • Like 2
  6. Nice "heads up" :icon_biggrin:

    The main challenge of this split from the UK is that Sirus does not rise that high in the sky.

    That said, I've split it quite often with my 12 inch dobsonian, a few times with my 130mm triplet refractor and a couple of times last Winter with my Tak 100mm refractor.  I've found magnifications between 180x and 280x the most effective.

    The seeing conditions need to bs reasonably steady to give the best chance of the split from here.

    This is a sketch I did of Sirius as observed with my 12 inch dobsonian back in February this year:

     

     

    sirius180219.jpg

    • Like 2
  7. My astro society purchased a Meade LX600 12 inch last year. Complex scope, if it goes wrong, I would think.

    It would be a shame if Meade does go to the wall. They have produced some better products over the past couple of years.

     

     

  8. 15 hours ago, Louis D said:

    Dobs are also far more stable dollar for dollar at equivalent aperture than an EQ mount.  It takes a massive EQ mount to hold an 8" newt as rock solid as a Dob mount, for instance.  This translates to faster settling times after touching the scope to move it, focus it or simply from contacting the eyepiece when observing....

     

    This is absoloutely true from my experience. I've owned dobs in 8, 10 and now 12 inch apertures. Goodness knows what size (and cost) an equatorial mount would need to be to hold my 12 inch F/5.3 dob steady but the simple plywood dobsonian mount that an SGL friend made for me holds the scope easily steady enough to use 300x or even 400x magnification. The atmospheric conditions are the limit on what can be usefully used, not the mounting.

    The Skywatcher Skyliner 200P is an excellent scope - good choice !

     

     

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, Paz said:

     

    A smaller lighter version would be up my street but it would have to have slow motion controls.

     

    Although it's fit and finish are not in the same league as the AZ100, the Skytee II would fall into the category that you mention. I did compare the AZ100 with my Skytee II and the latter held up surprisingly well considering the price difference. Not quite as good at vibration damping but not far off.

    But if you want something new, shiny and black, the Skytee II is not that of course !

     

    • Like 1
  10. I don't know where you are but we had very dewey conditions here (North Somerset, UK) last night. My scope and finders don't usually suffer from dew much but last night I was repeatedly having to clear the dew off the finders last night.

    I keep my eyepieces at a bit warmer than outside temperature which stops them dewing / misting.

    So as Paz says, depending where you are (including height above sea level and proximity to water bodies) dew formation can vary a lot session to session.

     

  11. With the F/10 SCT I'd be tempted to go for a BST Starguiders rather than a Hyperion.  You can get 2 BST Starguiders for the same price as a single Hyperion and their optical quality is pretty much the same at that focal ratio. Actually I think the BST's are better corrected in faster scopes as well.

    You could go for the 15mm for 133x and the 12mm for 167x or even the 8mm for 250x.

    The Baader FT rings are an interesting concept but somewhat fiddly to fit in "field conditions" because they involve opening up the optics of the eyepiece. Or at least thats what I found when I tried them. I think I'd rather use a decent quality barlow rather than an FT ring.

     

  12. 5 hours ago, Louis D said:

    ..Perhaps the manufacturers of recessed eye lens eyepieces could have had a screw off extension akin to the latest Morpheus eyepieces that could be removed by those seeking the maximum usable eye relief?

    Baader did just this with their 32mm Classic plossl although it's a plastic push fit extension. The AFoV of that eyepiece is a bit less than 50 degrees though.

    I prefer the TV 32mm plossl with the eye guard extender to the Baader 32 pl despite the price difference.

     

    • Like 2
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