malc-c

If you opt for replacement PIC's and need to remove the old ones, it can be done using a dremel with a small cutting disk and carefully cut the legs off at the part where they enter the package. If done right the body drops away leaving the legs still soldered in place. Then apply some flux and carefully apply heat from a soldering iron to the pad and the leg should come away cleanly without damaging the pads or traces. To solder a PIC programmed with the 2.09 firmware, ensure the orientation is corrected, place it on the board and solder pin 1 and pin 15 (opposing diagonals) - check to make sure all the legs line up with the pads and then apply some flux and solder the remaining 26 legs. Once you are happy with the soldering, clean the flux away with some IPA (alcohol) and an old tooth brush

Just replied to your PM. It's a shame you are not in the UK otherwise I would have offered to do the job myself. I have given you a couple of options, let me know if the will help

Just to add a disclaimer - whilst this is straight forward, and should place the 2.09 firmware on the board I accept no responsibility should you end up bricking the boards. In reality it's a simple process, but as the IDC pads are through hole it is possible to place the wires on the wrong way depending on which side of the board is used to make the connections, hence the need to use a digital meter to confirm which pad of the IDC goes to which pin of the microcontroller.

Programming a PIC is not difficult when you have the right tools. You need a PIC programmer such as the PicKit2 or Pickit3. This will come with the software required to load the HEX file and write it to the PIC processor. The MC003 has an in circuit serial programming option as mentioned, and you connect wires between it and the programmer. You will need to trace what pin / pad goes to which pin on the programmer. It's basically +ve, Gnd, MCLR, and two programming pins. The programmer applies around 12v to one pin which places it into programming mode and then the HEX file is loaded. The actual process takes just a few seconds. You may find this video helpful. It actually has the pin outs for the 16F886 that the PIC uses. You will need to reprogram both PICs (can't remember off the top of my head if MC003 has one pic on each board, or two on one board) If you are not too sure or confident then try and find a local electronics club that might do this for you for a small donation.

I found this.... seems you may have to change the selection in the settings to EQMOD Mount

OK a bit of googling and it seems you can run Windows / Linux / Mac OS, and then they have their own imaging suit application running over the top. So Device Manager should still be accessible ? Page 14 of the manual shows a settings page for the serial connection within the custom application... I can't find any reference to accessing windows components

Is there any way to check the settings of the com port - I'm not familiar with the custom OS

When you connect the EQDIR cable it should install a COM port which should default to 9600 baud. In EQMOD you need to select the same PORT and speed to match. One other possibility is that the EQ5 synscan unit is faulty. Did it come with a hand controller, and if it did can you move the mount using the speed setting 9 and direction buttons on the handset ?

Try this firmware.... Its still 209, but for dobsonian scopes - I noticed in your screen shots the firmware you had was MC001_209.... not saying it will work.... Dob_Goto_Motor_Controller_Ver209 (7).zip

If you are still in contact with the previous owner, see if you can get some back history on it, and ask if the board had ever been replaced. I've flashed 2.09 firmware directly to the PICs on MC003 and MC004 mother boards so it is possible to resolve this issue as mentioned above. But it does require the PICs to be reprogrammed by a programmer and not through the bootloader and Synta software. The 2.14 firmware is used with the MC003, which is probably why its reporting (correctly) that this firmware is right and the version (2.09) you are trying to use is wrong. I can't see anyway of resolving the issue without having the PICs reprogrammed.

The only firmware that has a 2.14 reference is for an allview mount - the correct version for your scope is 2.09 as you state. It would therefor seem that the previous owner somehow managed to write the incorrect firmware to the PIC microcontrollers on the motor board. Now as the firmware updater checks which motor board it is being connected to and what software you are uploading it naturally reports the discrepancy. The only way I can think of to overcome this is to directly copy over the existing firmware by re-programming the PICs using a PIC programmer. If you can post up a picture of the motor boards, If its an MC004 board it can be programmed in situ without the need to remove the PIC using the ICD2 header A PIC programmer such as the Micochip PicKit2 would do the job I can only speculate that either the previous owner needed to replace the boards and was either supplied or ordered the wrong ones as I can't see how he could have over-write the original 2.09 firmware with the 2.14 all view version, unless he directly re-programmed the PICs with the wrong firmware.... I have attached (fingers crossed the forum software permits it) the correct firmware in HEX format for the MC004 board. If you have or know someone with a programmer it should be straight forward to re-program. MC004d.hex

Its cosmetic, but then if you bought a new car and it had a scuff mark on a bumper you would may want some form of redress.

See I said you'll get lots of other suggestions I have a feeling the long detailed post from "newbie alert" should have screen captures, which for me other than the first are not showing up, which is sad as they have gone to a lot of trouble. There are many ways to do anything in the hobby, and no single way is the ONLY way. I only use APT to manage the Canon D400 attached to the scope and run the imaging plans, and it's far more capable that that (even my old version !). For polar alignment I purchased a licence for Sharp cap (£13) and used their PA tool. It's quick and works really well. As for an EQDIR cable, this is what you need - £35 from FLO. It works with most of Skywatchers goto mount including the EQ6-R you mentioned above. Given it's FTDI based it should be plug and play. As for camera's as others have said you can daisy chain the connections from the guide camera to the main imaging camera, and then use a USB3 cable to make the connection to the laptop, ideally via a USB3 port if the imaging camera has one. The guide camera and mount do not require fast data speeds, but the main imaging camera will be sending the bulk of data, so USB 3 would help. As for software, yes APT has a database of targets, and you can control the mount through APT, which will intern use EQMOD to handle the actual instructions to the mount. Now as mentioned I use APT just for one function, so can't really comment on the practical aspect of this process, but I find using CDC, easy as you just right click on a target, select slew to target, and away it goes (again via EQMOD). Other planetarium applications are available, and most are free, but if you are happy selecting a target form a list in APT then there is no need for a planetarium application. The advice above about getting to grips with the hardware and software bit by bit is a good suggestion, and you don't need to wait until its dark to do that. Using each application could take up a complete new thread in itself, but most of the common issues are covered in forum posts (such as guide settings etc). It's also worth reading the wiki and any manuals provided. Or start a new thread if you are having a specific issue with an item or hardware or software.

Like most things in life there are more than one way to get the results you seek (why did Yoda pop into my brain when I typed that!) You will need a way of controlling the mount via a computer. If you read through similar posts this computer can be anything from a Raspberry Pi through to a dedicated astro PC. For simplicity a lot of people use a normal windows PC or Laptop as that is what they already have, and it's this method that I'll focus on. Firstly you will need to install ASCOM on the computer. This platform is used to link all the applications together so they can all communicate using the one standard. Next you need software to handle the control of the mount. EQMOD has been the default application for well over a decade. It's robust and does the job, but is now somewhat dated, and in recent years Green Swamp Server has become a modern alternative. Both look for a serial communications port for the physical connection. An EQDIR cable has been the standard method for years, providing a USB to mount connectivity using safe TTL serial levels. But there are alternatives such as Blue tooth and wi-fi adaptors, but for ease of use and reliability a hard wired cable is what I would stick with. When installed windows will give the connection a new com port which is selected in EQMOD / GSS. Both your guide camera and imaging camera should connect direct to a USB port, ideally direct, or via a powered USB hub. Some manufactures allow daisy chaining so one camera plugs into another, providing one cable to the PC. You may need to experiment with this to see which works best for you. PHD2 has been the preferred guiding software, and as the cameras will have ASCOM compliant drivers will be selectable from within PHD2. You also need a planetarium application. Cartes du Ciel has been a firm favourite for years, but others are available and most are free. The final part of the puzzle is the software to control the imaging camera and automate the process of gathering images. Again there are several packages. APT has evolved to become one of the well established applications for the purpose, but in recent years NINA is now becoming very popular. Again these all integrate through the ASCOM platform and these days its possible to use one app to control everything where as in years passed each application had a distinct purpose. The process for a session would be to polar align the mount, and from a start point (normally the default home position) perform an alignment routine through EQMOD / GSS and the planetarium software. Then select a target, launch PHD2 select a guide star. You then run a calibration routine in PHD2 and when it starts guiding you can then start running a plan within the imaging software. A plan is where you set up how many images to take, at what duration, and ISO etc. Then you sit back and let it do its thing. Through the software and hardware the process is fully automated. As I said there are loads of alternatives. Linux based systems do essentially the same, but use a different platform and software, but the end result is the same, in that the mount is controlled via the guide camera tracking a star and the camera takes the images through software. I've generalised the process and software / hardware used, and there will be recommendations from others, which may be worth trying... so long as you get the same results that's what counts.

Glad to hear you have the laptop back up and running. Yes replacing an old mechanical hard drive with an SSD will make a very noticeable difference. £80 is a fair price for supplying and fitting a hard drive... well done

I did say that there are methods from both extremes. Editing registry settings is not as scary as people think, and you can easily make copies before making changes. However there are other ways as you say, and even apps that are more user friendly. Most people are unaware of the option in Device manager to show hidden items.

Google "Deleting unused Com ports" - there are methods from editing the registry to 3rd party apps that can manage the registering of comports for the devices attached. Sometimes plugging a device into a different USB port can cause windows to issue it with a new port number.

Steve, how far "out of warranty" was the windows laptop, and was it budget, mid-range or hi-end machine. Under consumer law the normal 12 month warranty means nothing as you are entitled to expect an item to last a reasonable amount of time and be fit for purpose. For arguments sake, you would expect a good few years of service from an expensive mid-range laptop compared to the cheapest laptop you can find as you would expect the internal components to be of higher quality. If your laptop went pop, and it was of no fault of your own, and is not that old then I would suggest going back to the retailer. Don't let them fob you off with it being the manufactures responsibility, that is totally incorrect, your contract is with the retailer, and it's the retailers choice or option to seek redress from the next person up in the supply chain. Naturally you won't get a new replacement, and the offer will be to repair the device, and that is common practice. Now if on the other hand the laptop was just a few hundred pounds when purchased five years ago then I doubt you would be able to seek any redress as that period of time would be acceptable as a decent length of life, if it's 13 months old, then you wouldn't be expected to replace the device after such a short period of time. As far as chromebooks - they don't run windows OS so ASCOM and all the other software you have on the laptop won't work. Chromebooks are aimed at having all your documents online with access through portal apps on the machine. I think of them as glorified tablets

I think we are at cross purposes - The cable I linked to was the Lynx Astro EQDIR cable, but I think you are referring to a different cable. If you are using a wifi dongle then there is no need to get the cable I was referring to.

The lynx cable doesn't connect to a power source - it does the same thing as your wifi adapter, allowing communications between a computer and the mount

Your 130PDS on a EQ5 should make for a nice combination, with the 130 being well within the weight specs for imaging. Now a few words of caution. As others have said always be mindful when connecting up power to the equipment. The sysnscan unit doesn't really like anything over 14v, and polarity is sensitive, but the main killer of these mounts is when the wrong EQDIR adapter is used between the PC and mount when a computer is used to handle control of the equipment. So often people get a standard RS232 serial to USB adapter and after some modification hook that up to their mount which dies the instance it plugged in. If/when you go down that road, purchase a Lynx Astro EQDIR cable for £35 from FLO, it will eliminate the chances of damage to your mounts control box. The EQ5 is a great mount, having a decent load capacity, the ability to have full goto option yet still be light enough to be considered portable. I'm sure it will give you some excellent results

10/10 for an understanding and considerate council. Not only did they listen to your complaint they acted quickly to implement a solution that accommodates the needs of the council to illuminate the road, but reduce the spillage of light into areas that would have seriously impacted the enjoyment of your hobby. Makes a change compared to some of the stories we read on here where other councils are less sympathetic to their constituents.

Glad to hear you have got to the bottom of the issue, which is strange as a I would have expected the motor to stop altogether rather than run fine at full slew but chatter on spool up / down... I would contact the supplier to see if they would be happy in accepting the new board back as a return and refund you your money seeing that you have now resolved the problem and your old board works fine. I'm sure under distant selling regulations or summat like that you have several days to return an item for any reason, so can't see why, and in this case the board had to be used other wise you wouldn't have identified the real reason for the fault.

@gusisin I'm doing OK thanks. That's a great offer. If such a case arises I'll point them in your direction.

That would be cool. I'm sure we could sort something out if I manage to get it to work.