Rob

I've just completed a upgrade /change to my 200PDS secondary. I always felt that the stock secondary spider was always flimsy and collimation was made worse because of that. The second part was to move from the secondary collimation grubs biting into the aluminium of the secondary support. This then prompted me to re-think how the secondary is held to the spider. 

The first step was to move to a CNC spider. I located a CYCK machined aluminium one. It was a lot cheaper than the alternative. I have to say it’s very good quality.

The second step was to incorporate a steel A2 stainless wash to fix to the back of the secondary. I had to lightly sand the secondary support to smooth out the previous bits from the collimation grub screws. Next to fix the washer to the secondary with a thin layer of silicone. 

The third step was to re think how the secondary connects to the spider. I decided that a M5 long grub screw and lock nut with a washer was the way to go here. So I purchased a 55mm long A2 stainless grub and screwed directly into the secondary. Also purchased the M5 lock nut & M5 Wash, again A2 stainless. Pushed through the spider with the original spring in place and pushed on the wash then fixed up with the locking nut. The happened to sit nicely in a small recess already on the spider (see pics below). and started the secondary positioning to the focuser draw tube. I could already appreciate this felt like a major step up from the original factory setup.

The fourth step was to add Bob's knobs for easy collimation. This proved to be a dream to collimate the secondary. All done in 5 mins. I have to say the washer, grub bolt and locking nut system just seems so much better for fine tuning everything.

Project complete!.. I just wanted to share this as it’s made a huge difference. The CNC spider is of course optional.

Clear skies. Rob

I always keep coming back to take a look at this scope and nearly talk myself into purchasing!. I still may TBH. 

Could always enquire with FLO to see if they can supply. Other than that approach OVL directly they SHOULD be able to supply. 

https://www.opticalvision.co.uk/

Rob

Another vote here for a 102ED f7. Its a nice sweet spot of a scope on all fronts. Can also sit on an EQ5 with no problem.

I agree with the comments made. Clearly a pre-launch style release. It will be interesting how much it will cost?.. I can see its still patent pending also. Just find the concept fascinating

Well this caught my attention. Maybe the shape of things to come off the back of smart telescopes?... looks very interesting

https://pegasusastro.com/products/smarteye/

Rob

I agree with Alan and the others. This has to be down to seeing & the jet stream. Its not great over the UK at the moment. 

Looks great. Always like to see some good Astro DIY.. seems less these days!

That's great. Nice capture

Fantastic!. Thanks for sharing

On 14/04/2023 at 14:55, Coco said:

Found a great seller on eBay, made an aperture mask for my Bresser 127 L, while  by no means does not show terrible amounts of CA Jupiter does get spoiled a wee bit, so for less than a pint of draught lager I thought worth a punt, I have to say it's very well made, shame matt black wasn't available so I'll flock it. 

 

I'd love one of these. Can you share some details by PM by any chance?. Thanks Rob

Great stuff Paul. Really good to hear!.

I have 5, but also have 2 more on my radar!.. not suggesting getting 2 more, but you never know!

I'm planning to do some light imaging with my ED102 fpl-51 soon also. I had planned on using a Badder semi-apo filter along with my L-pro to see what results I get. 

4 minutes ago, wookie1965 said:

No it's not liquid it's two clamshell chips I am really hacked off about it. I cleaned them but someone has had them apart two separating tabs are stuck on the other is a bit of tinfoil. The crown tipped to one side as I put it in and jammed I tried going around gently pushing it when those two chips came off and popped out. 

The cell was loose when I inspected it so I knew someone had been at it before when I unscrewed it there was loads of metal fillings off the screw thread I had to blow all that out. 

I really should have sent it back and left alone but I thought it is a good scope I can clean the glass as I have done it before the glass was really tight going in took me numerous times to get it in. 

Paul 

I am sorry mate. 

On 08/03/2024 at 17:27, wookie1965 said:

Ohh I cleaned the glass putting it back together this happened. 

OMG!... I'm trying to think of the best approach now. I'm guessing you split the crown and flint lens. I would suggest reaching out to a Vixen telescope supplier to see if you can obtain new spacing tabs. I'm trying to make out the image fully. Is that liquid between the lens, if so you will have to split them re clean and leave to fully dry (maybe in an airing cupboard). Shame I don't live closer I'd offer to come and assit!

3 hours ago, wookie1965 said:

All excited when this arrived until I unpacked it there are smudges on the inside of the optical cell maybe I can clean that

Worse is it won't take 1.25mm eyepieces and the vixen plates I have don't fit it needs narrower ones. 

Sorry its not a good start for you on this. The SP102M is a fantastic scope. I felt sure you could buy a thread on 1.25" eyepiece/visual back adapter for this??.. Also have complete faith that you will bring that lens back to its shiny glory with a little time spent!. Rob

Come to think of it David is absolutely right with marking the edge of the lenses with a V for returning to the original orientation.  I'd forgotten I did that also.. 

Welcome to the forum Prazz. I agree looks like fungus. A few things you can do here to try and salvage.

Step One: First is to leave the scope (cap off of course) pointed at direct sunlight for some hours, even over a few individual days for a good UV treatment. Make sure there is no diagonal, eyepiece or cap attached at the focuser. Also remove the finder scope/rdf. Repeat the UV treatment over a few bright sunny days this SHOULD kill the fungus and reduce it slightly visually. 

Step Two : Now this is not for the faint hearted so if your not happy doing this yourself, find someone (poss camera shop for example) to cover this. The doublet lens will need to be removed from the lens cell and individually cleaned/treated with either Baader wonder fluid or another clean with anti fungal additive in.

Now I have done this on a previous scope around 15 ish years ago with good results. But step two is at your own risk. Step one is a 'Nothing lost' step. So worth the try.

Good luck.

Rob

Nice job indeed. And really useful to share. 

I did the same last weekend with my ED80. I just wanted to share for those that are maybe using Baader Wonder fluid as your point is very valid.

I add one additional step and although my refactors are not Tak's I do use Baader wonder fluid and the Baader microfiber cloth. After cleaning the removed the lens. The only additional step I take before re-screwing the lens back into the tube is that I wrap my dew heater strap around the lens cell and leave powered on medium level (its a usb type) for 15 mins. This should allow you to feel sure all liquid has evaporated even if it had moved between the air spaced lenses. 

Good post mind, Thanks

All my Astro regrets are to do with scopes & items I've sold TBH. Its that fatal floor of thinking you want something different and needing the funds to get there!.

Sale regrets include : Orion SPX 200 f6 (Planet views were jaw dropping, but really needed an EQ6 mount.. should of just saved for an EQ6!). White tube custom ETX 125 with machined metal rear plate & SCT thread. somewhere around 2005. Really nice optics. Celestron ED80, WO SD66 & WO ZS66 Petzval Both models when they were first released, Celestron C8 starbright coatings black tube with feathertouch focuser. 

Clearly I've been in the hobby a long time!!

Rob

Stayed in Bodmin many times (Holiday cottages). The skies are fantastic when not foggy or raining. Loved using the ED80 there as it performs superbly under those skies.

The SV503 102ED f7 (FPL-51) I have is a nice all rounder for visual. If you can find one 2nd hand it should be around £450 ish.. That's a possible

Rob

Welcome to the forum. Ask as many questions as you need.. we are all here to help.