Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Recommended Posts

:) ummm again another newbie question, ive been researching the skymax 127 mak and was wondering do you ever have to collimate one? or are you likely to have to collimate one? ive read one or two posts about the collimation slipping or the mirror cell sliping if its kept in a warm place and have to be sent off? ive only used a 80mm refrac before so ill be honest the prospect of having to collimate this scope is daunting lol :p

so is it mandatory like reflectors where they need to be collimated once in a while or is it a scope that in theory should never be collimated if its well looked after? and is it hard to collimate if worst came to worst.

again sorry for the newb questions but im getting there :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maks tend to hold collimation very well

mirror slip is to do with focusing, its not really a bother, you end up refocusing every now and again (you think you got it, then you dont)

i have had my little mak for a while and i have never once had to collimate it but i am forever having to play with the focusing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most Maks aren't designed to be collimated by the user at all. The idea of a Maksutov, is that the back of the corrector lens is silvered to make the secondary (the curvature is the same). This means that once the corrector plate is in place, the 'secondary' mirror spot cannot shift independently from the corrector. This is very unlike a standard schmidt-cassegrain such as those made by Celestron or Meade. These have a hole in the corrector plate, and the secondary mirror is mounted there in a holder than must be adjusted to bring the secondary in line with the rest of the system. Maks cannot have this problem unless the entire front corrector lens shifts - this would be either impossible or catastrophic in most commercial Maks.

I hope that helps, :)

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that does help very much as I was afraid of getting one then something going wrong and never being able to sort it out haha also I would like to do webcam photography of the planets tracking would be a plus but another thing im apprehensive after reading some posts on the SynScan AZ GOTO models is the stand breaking again and becoming useless, is this a common thing? or would it be more beneficial to get a eq 3-2 mount and then get the motor upgrades? again thanks for clearing up some of my misconceptions haha :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lunar observing is my main interest, to get as much detail of the moons surface as possbile within my budget and also to try webcam photography later on of the moon and planets :) as ill be still using my old 80mm for widefield viewing and hunting dso's at dark sites :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not really but would like it to be able to fit in a car if i go to dark sites :) im not really hung up on any type of scope or size as ive only ever used my 80mm helios frac so as i mentioned in other posts im very open to whatever scopes will do the job the best to be honest within my budget :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it's not in your budget but have you considered a Meade ETX 125 they are good optically are already motrised and goto a with a long focal lenght are great on planets and the moon. just a bit more saving and you get the complete package.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.