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Proposed Obs and Imaging setup


markab

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My research into a new setup continues and thanks largely to the sound advice of Ollypenrice I’ve settled on an Explorer 190 Mak. Newt. with an EQ6 Pro SynScan with goto.

My aim is to have a good all round observational scope with modest astro imaging capability.

My current setup has reached the dizzy heights of a TAL-1 so I make no apologies for asking what may appear to be minor setup fundamentals. Our obs group currently don’t have my proposed sort of set up but I’m sure things will become clear on our next big star meet where I can watch on.

In the mean time I would be very grateful if you can help with a few queries.

I know portability is going to be a problem but I don’t think I’m prepared to compromise on the choice of mount.

If I can park next to the setup I shouldn’t have a problem with assembly and keeping the caravan battery in the vehicle will help, but I do have a worry on how much time will be taken setting up, collimating scopes, guider and camera etc.

For those with a similar portable setup how long does it take you.

My choice of camera is a Canon EOS 60d. (I will also use this for terrestrial use and have chosen EOS 60D. + EF 50mm F1/4 USM lens. and later an ER-S 15-85mm F/3.5.6 IS USM lens when my budget allows.)

I may not have the camera modded because of its effect on terra photography but Ive yet to see the difference with and without a IR filter.

EQ6. I read that some are having problems with EQ bolts. Have you?

Autoguider. My reasoning tells me that the longer the guide scope the better so I should be looking for say a 50 or 60mm 500mm FL. Any suggestions?

I’ve selected a Sky Watcher Synguider but I’m not sure how good the guide scope optics need to be. Will this replace the EP and how good must the focusing mechanism be?

I know this scope will need to be locked rigidly to the main scope but I read that small relative movement between the scope and its guider when tracking to new sky positions can affect autoguider performance. Maybe the disadvantage of a side mounted draw tube would contribute to some flexing. Do you think this would be a significant problem.

I’ve picked a camera with an articulated screen so it can be turned for easy view but I understand that precise focusing can be difficult. What kind of focusing mask do you use.

PHD software has been recommended by many. Do you think this is a good choice?

I understand that some astro applications will not run on Win 7.

Would you think a Samsung N130 netbook would do for the field work. 1.6Ghz, 1 GB ram, 160GB hard drive, XP. ?

I would be grateful for your advice.

Markab

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Hi,

In a recent post MartinB, who knows what he is doing if anyone does, recommends an off axis guider for the Mak Newt because differential flexure is hard to avoid on a large scope like this. It may come from flex in the tube, from small mirror movement or from the focuser, who knows. But an OAG sorts this out. If you do go down the separate guidescope route there is no need to worry about relative focal lengths any more. I use an ST80 F5 to guide my similar FL TEC140 with no problem. The key thing is to have a fast guidescope, one that picks up a star easily and in short exposures, since the EQ is not a mount that seems to like guide corrections at intervals much longer than a second.

Martin does make the point that this is a big scope and is susceptible to wind, so bear this in mind. On the imaging side my advice would always be small fast apo refractor first, but you were keen to have a scope that can do visual work as well, hence the appeal of of the MN.

I am observatory based so am no expert on fast polar alignment. The EQ6 is a budget mount with some corners cut, notably the polar scope holder and the dec axis bolts. The bolts can be upgraded and I think EQ Mod offers some polar alignment features, but I don't know the details. I have in my kitchen part of a new iOptron IEQ45 for appraisal and live in hope that the rest will arrive soon! Now this does look very convincing on the alignment side and is lighter, by a lot, than the EQ6 yet has the same payload. I have obviously yet to try it and it is more expensive but I am impressed by the design in general. You might just want to think about it.

In terms of a modded camera or not, I would say that a modded budget camera beats a top end unmodded one but others will come in on that. I use CCD.

I think someone on the original thread did say, Are you sure a visual Dob and small imaging equatorial apo would not suit your needs? I just mention it because the investment is considerable and you will want to get it right.

Catatonia is another member using the MN now and so is SteveL.

Olly

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You may want to check the field of view that your scope and camera combination choice will give you. These are a couple of useful sites:

http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fov.htm

Calculator for DSLR Astrophotography

I found the bolts on my EQ6 very stiff and hard to use. I removed them and found them to be very dirty. Cleaning them and using WD40 made movement much easier. I later replaced them with stronger bolts.

I use an Orion OAG on my C8 with a Canon 1000d which avoids any issues with flexure and minimises weight. I've not had a problem with this, but do check the focus travel on whichever scope you use has sufficient travel to reach focus through the imaging 'stack'. Some people have had problems with thick OAGs, especially with Newtonain scopes.

I've used PHD without problems. My guide camera has a mount output so the lamptop runs the camera and PHD, and the camera connects to the mount. Alternatively, the computer can control both the mount and guide camera.

I focus with a Bahtinov mask and liveview on the camera. Set the camera to manual/long exposure and point at a bright star. Move the liveview box over it and zoom in. Adjust focus to get a 'cross' then exit liveview and remove the mask.

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On this thread in this section...

Recommended Max weight on NEQ6 for imaging?

Catatonia talks about one type of OAG being too thick to come to focus. This will need attention of you go that way. But he seems to be getting on okay with a guidescope.

Olly

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Hi - I'm the initiator of the other thread that Olly's mentioned...

I'm a new owner of an MN190 on an NEQ6 which I'm currently quiding (or trying to) with a Synguider on an ST102 (many people use ST80's but I already had this one :)).

Piggyback balancing issues aside (:)), it works fine. However, I'd look hard into whether a Synguider will function easily with an OAG... I'm going to try and see if I can find someone, and I'd love it if it did, but I have a strong suspicion that it may be problematical, and early indications are that it would be much easier with a more conventional guidecam...

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What Olly said...!

I hope I didn't put you off, but I also think that's a very wise move. If I could go back 4 months, I'd still definitely have bought the NEQ6, but maybe I might have waited for the MN190 (but now I've got it, I AM going to master it!). I probably would have bought the Equinox 80 sooner and, even though the Synguider DOES work, I personally would probably have saved up for a Starlight Xpress lodestar...

Whether the APO would have been guided via OAG or side-by-side I couldn't really say, but I'm glad I've got the ADM dual mount (and the Astronomik LPR EOS clip filter) as it also means I can guide a camera+lens combination...

However, everyone has their own aims, priorities and preferences - It's just a case of deciding what you want to do and then research what you think will work best for you (and that you'll be happy / comfortable using).

(And then 6 months down the line finding yourself selling a lot of it on when you've either changed your mind or some obstacle you hadn't thought of jumps out of the ground and slaps you round the face...!)

What a fascinating hobby this is...! :)

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