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Advice for a ZWO Noob


lawsio

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As the title suggests really!

I recently bought, on a complete whim during the FLO sale, a ZWO ASI 224MC to use with my SkyMax 127 to have a go with some planetary imagining. So far I've followed the setup guide, downloaded the software, connected the camera up with ASICAP and taken this of Saturn;

2023-08-26-2150_3-CapObj_0000.thumb.PNG.c3bea375c5d812d4d1791487d27e9702.PNG

 

Clearly this isnt as simple and just plug and play and there's a lot to learn, and I don't want to waste everyones time asking for step by step guide to what went wrong but can anyone rec commend a good page/channel to get a bit of a crash course in how to use these things? The tutorials thread pinned in this section of the forum doesn't seem to address this kind of camera from what I can see. 

Thanks!

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Hmmm...I am a DSLR user however , you'r issues does not seem to be camera functioning related but more of the camera mounting or , as Elp is sayng a focusing issue. I have a feeling the bright light is your SkyMax front glass giving a reflection of sorts.

Have you also looked here :

 

Might be usefull.

Edited by Bivanus
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The main issue with planetary images goes as follows:

1. Getting the target in centre of FOV and keeping it thereabout when tracking, it doesn't matter if it drifts across the FOV when recording.

2. Focusing, you need to focus with the camera in the scope (either straight through or via a diagonal, if using a diagonal where an eyepiece reached focus will be quite close to where a camera reaches focus but you have to be mindful where that focal point is), if the camera is too close or too far from this point it will never reach focus. Focus as you would when looking at a star, as small as possible, if the target is large and bright enough you can judge this by how crisp the edge of it is if it's a large bright circle (achieved by extending the exposure length a little, note a little, too long and the live image will be bloated by overexposure and will appear larger than it is).

3. Exposure. Once you're certain you've got the best focus as possible, dial back the exposure lengths until it's much dimmer and you can see surface details when the seeing cooperates. Look at the imaging histogram to make sure the data isn't under or overexposed, it's normal for the edges of the planet to appear dark at this point.

4. How long to image for, or take a video. Do a search, typically Jupiter can be imaged or filmed for around 2-3 minutes before the target planet rotation will cause the details in your stack to be blurred.

5. How to process. Use registax or autostakkert. Winjupos to derotate if your using a large data set. Then any other desk top processing software thereafter to make minor adjustments.

I haven't put collimation in here as from experience, all of my telescopes have always been well collimated even after taking out of storage and I've used all types. Collimation is easy to do regardless.

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It looks totally out of focus.  I suggest you focus with a 25mm eyepiece, pull the eyepiece out by 6mm, refocus, and then insert the camera.  It should then be in rough focus.

Alternatively, just wind the focus knob in the direction that makes that donut smaller.  You will then need to reduce the exposure time.

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Thanks folks. I guessed the focus was the main issue. The instructions that come with the camera don't give you any clues at all how best to set it up but the 6mm trick noted above and in the linked thread may be the part I'm missing.

Is it better to use it with the diagonal or without? Does it matter?

 

 

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1 minute ago, lawsio said:

Also, I notice in the linked thread references to setting it up with an ADC. I don't have one - is that a major oversight or is it a nice to have?

An ADC is a nice to have, particularly if you're imaging planets relatively low to the horizon. As you may know, refraction through the Earth's atmosphere can behave like a prism, so you get red and blue fringes above and below the disc of the planet - this is Atmospheric Dispersion.  Not only above and below, but red and blue light from features on the disc, get 'smeared' across the disc.  If you're imaging without an ADC (AD Corrector), you can get some relief from this by letting your processing software realign the red and blue channels - this will help, but a better solution is to use an ADC, as this means that the camera sensor gathers the correct colour data in the correct place on the image.

Ian Morison (a good authority) has a page about this on his Astronomy Digest blog https://www.ianmorison.com/combating-atmospheric-dispersion/

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Well, do you want to sell the pictures to NASA or just have fun ? If enjoyment is on the line ADC is nice but not essential. Also , a good one might surprise you with the cost...  http://www.gutekunst-optiksysteme.com/

There is of course a budget friendly option too 🙃  https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-125-atmospheric-dispersion-corrector-adc.html

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So I've got a SkyMax 102 and the biggest issue I've had with it is that I found it extremely hard to focus manually as even the slightest touch causes so much wobble I found it almost impossible to focus by hand. I fitted an electric focuser and the helped a lot, but I've not had much luck with it myself. This posts has reminded me to go back and give it another go some time. 

I bought an old Skywatcer focuser of e-bay and my father-in-law made a great mount for it on his 3D printer: 

image.thumb.jpeg.57bd3b0df8d3ec471a51acf8505b83c7.jpeg

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