Shootnig with a Canon T7 and Celestron AstroMaster 90 (refractor)

[Crazycatlady]

Ever since I was little and had my first telescope (a 1966 Sears 60mm refractor which I still have), I've wanted to be able to take pix of what I am seeing.  I recently puchased my Celestron 90mm refractor and LOVE it.  I tried taking pix with my cellphone with an adapter and did not have any luck.  I tried a used Olympus DE300 and no luck there either; no live view.  Then, I bit the bullet, and got my Canon. 

The Canon does a beautiful job for the most part - but the image is so tiny, I can't get it focused!  I tried live view through my phone and that stopped working.  It works with 'daytime images' but not night.  Settings?  I have the camera on manual.  It also continuously disconnects every time I switch a setting, so I spend more time messing with my phone and camera than actually looking through my objective.  I can see what I want to see through the camera's viewfinder, and I use the phone as the remote to take the picture so I don't have to touch it and well you know what happens.  HANDS off is best...but the focus is a crap shoot.  I can't get it to connect to my iPad; it just won't do it.  Seems like the Canon's software has limitations with regards to quite a few things; as a UX/UI designer, I have a lot to say about it but this is the wrong forum...

So - does something exist where I can either 1) put some kind of magnification device on my t-ring set up to make the image bigger so I can focus - or perhaps something that allows me to use one of my eyepieces?  I'd love to get the circus I see every night with Jupiter's moons - they are so fun to see as they change every night.  Thanks in advance!  I've attached the best pic so far and it's fuzzy.  (sigh).  I want to get those strips I see on Jupiter and the crisp rings of Saturn!

[almcl]

If you have access to a Windows laptop, Astrophotography Tool  is free software that will provide a stable, live view picture at  up to 10x magnification. There's a paid for version that adds adds more functionality, but the free version allows successful imaging with a T5i.

Don't know if there's anything for Ipads, but for Android tablets DSLR controller gives lots of functionality (timed sequences, auto focus, exposure control, etc).

Edited September 21, 2021 by almcl

[happy-kat]

Hi during the day use your telescope and camera and focus on a really distant tree or arial (no where near the sun) infinity focus is just that and the Moon or Jupiter would be in focus if you don't alter anything.

Or make a bahtinov mask (or simple Lord y mask) and use that to focus on Jupiter, or a bright star, with your telescope and camera.

Whether Jupiter is steady is down to seeing and atmospheric disturbance. Generally video is used and not stills as then you get many many more frames to hopefully get some frames where the planet is steady. This video you then process in something like Registax.

 

 

Edited September 21, 2021 by happy-kat

[Crazycatlady]

So I went to download the Astrophotography software and I am so frustrated.  It brought down an EXE file that refers to a zip file I supposedly can download.  WHERE?  I DO NOT SEE IT ANYWHERE!  I'm an IT professional - this stuff shouldn't be a reach for me but I cannot find said zip file.  I wish I could simply magnify my image I am seeing in my viewfinder so I can focus and get my pix I need to get!

[Crazycatlady]

Okay I got the .net software installed and guess what - we have connection!  Now I have to wait for the darned tablet to charge up so I can go outside and shoot!

[happy-kat]

If you have an android device and your particular canon is supported then the app DSLR Controller works really well.

[rickwayne]

For focusing, the easiest hack is a Bahtinov mask -- it's a grating that you put in front of the scope that causes stars to have a spiky diffraction pattern. You can use it without any computer support, just magnify the live view and focus till you center the middle spike.

They're pretty easy to make, but you can also buy them commercially for not much dough.

It works best on a star, NOT a planetary disk, so the best practice is to point at a bright star, focus, REMOVE THE BAHTINOV MASK, and point at your target.

The emphasis is sincere, but also a wry comment. I don't think an imager exists who (a) has used a Bahtinov and (b) hasn't forgotten at least once to remove it while imaging.

Edited September 22, 2021 by rickwayne
Heavens, I forgot my Oxford comma!