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Right I'll dive in....

Yes it's the this vs that question from another new person.  I've read all of the posts and all of the suggestions.

As a photographer I know how important the light gathering aspects of aperture is.  Also I know how important the rigidity of the mount is.

Back to the same old question that you have seen on here a multitude of times.

Nexstar 4SE vs 127SLT Both Maks, one on an SE mount the other on the SLT mount.

Now, I'm quite sure that I can stiffen up the SLT mount so that's not really the question that I have.

It is purely down to optical quality.  Better coatings on the 4SE vs 1" more aperture on the 127SLT?  Initially I want to view/photograph the moon and then planets.

Also, of course there is always an also, how much does the ability of the 4SE to be able to track (and photo)via it's built in wedge, nebulae and other DSO's VS the extra 1" light gathering capability of the 127SLT?

These are my first questions (I'm sure there will be many more!) I look forward to your answers and experience!

Thanks

MZ

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Hi

Being a photographer you probably already have a load of prime lenses these with a dslr can be great for DSO imaging, 135mm a popular length. Those two scopes great for planets but your potential lens stock likely to be fast focal ratio better for DSO imaging which are often faint and broad.

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Altaz mounts work by moving left right up down movement so exposure length is limited to when rotation become visible, approx 15-45 seconds. Don't know how accurate the wedge is, depending on your aim you might want to consider an equatorial mount.

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If by 127 Mak SLT you mean the same mount I have, then I can report that it is on the wobbly side, acceptable for visual use if you don't nudge it and you are not working in a wind. OTOH it is very portable - I have taken it on holidays. As for stiffening it up, I am very skeptical. Better to buy a rigid mount in the first place. Suitable for astrophotography? ROFL I would not say so. I think the small SCT's have more rigid mountings.

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Well astrophotography is differnt to the usual day light photography.

First you need a short fast scope not a long slow scope like a Mak - think 80mm f/6 refractor for 130 f/5 newtonian but not 100mm or 127mm f/13 Maksutov. It is in effect lens )scope) speed that matters.

Next you need an driven equitorial mount (goto usually recommended), Alt/Az will do for short duration exposures say 20-40 seconds but after that field rotation comes into it.

Easy option is to take a DSLR, attach a standard lens say around 20mm and take some wide field exposures then stack and process them for practise.

One way to look at it is this:

Normally people shoot during the day using 1/200 second exposure on a tree that does not move. That one exposure gives you the image you expect in one very simple very fast action.

Astrophotography you take 20 exposures each of 60 seconds and you have to track accurately a moving target. You then take those 20 exposures stack (add) one to another and at the end of that you might have an image of what you intended. Additionally between each exposure you need to allow the DSLR sensor to cool down.

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