Eyepiece cleaning?

[ID1 john Ei3]

I found some advice about this subject on the TeleVue site at http://www.televue.c...page.asp?id=103 the contence of this web page is as copied & pasted below.

Cleaning Eyepiece and Telescope Optics

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TeleVue.com: Advice Article List > Cleaning Eyepiece and Telescope Optics

Optics of any type should be cleaned only in a clean environment. Most optics get scratched by being cleaned too often, under less than ideal conditions. Never clean lenses under "field" conditions. And never try to clean lenses using a red light; you won't be able to see the scratch-causing particles that need to be blown off.

Prepare a clean work area, such as a freshly washed kitchen table. Get a bulb-type puffer from the pharmacy (an ear syringe will do), some Q-tips and clean tissue, such as untreated facial tissue or bathroom tissue. Avoid tissues with perfumes or lotions, as they will leave a film on the lens. Also, an inspection lamp would be helpful.

Choosing a cleaning fluid is the most widely debated topic involving lens cleaning. The anti-reflective coatings on eyepieces and objective lenses are durable enough so that almost no liquid (short of a corrosive) is going to damage them, although some cleaning fluids can leave a film. Reagent grade acetone is ideal, and may be available in some pharmacies, but alcohol or acetone from a hardware store can also be used. Do not use nail polish remover, as this usually contains perfumes and oils which will leave a film. Windex or Glass Plus can be used to remove water-soluble deposits. If you have a favorite lens cleaner, feel free to continue using it. Methodology is what's most important.

First, use the bulb-type puffer to blow off any dust or loose particles from the lens surface. Don't blow the dust off with your mouth, as droplets of moisture can get on the lens, causing spots. If the eyepiece or objective lens has particles stuck to it that can't be blown off, moisten (do not soak) a tissue with Windex and gently blot the surface, without rubbing. On smaller lenses, use a Q-tip or fold a tissue into a steep triangle, moistened with Windex. Use the puffer again to blow off any more dust.

Second, moisten (do not soak) a Q-tip or tissue with alcohol, acetone or your favorite lens cleaner and gently wipe from the center out to the edge, using a circular motion. Move the Q-tip or tissue slowly enough so that the cleaning fluid appears to "follow" the Q-tip or tissue around and is re-absorbed. If you move it too quickly, some of the liquid will "break away" and dry separately, leaving spots. You'll probably use several tissues or Q-tips to thoroughly clean a lens. Use a new tissue or Q-tip after each swipe; this will prevent any contaminants from getting back onto the lens or scratching it. Do not touch the lens with your fingers, as the grease on your hands and fingers will cause smudges. Also, be careful the grease from your hands and fingers does not get on the Q-tips or tissues; it will smudge the lens. If it does, throw it away and use a clean one.

Cleaning the edge of a lens is the most difficult part, especially where the Q-tip or tissue is lifted from the surface. Don't use too much liquid or put the liquid directly onto the surface being cleaned, because capillary action could draw the liquid inside. Try folding a tissue into a sharp point, moistening it slightly and use it to wipe around the edge.

If, after cleaning, any spots remain, try "fogging" the lens surface with your breath, then wiping it with a Q-tip or tissue moistened with alcohol. This method usually works with spots that are water-soluble. Because pure alcohol and pure acetone contain no water, without the moisture from your breath to help, neither can remove water-soluble spots.

IMPORTANT NOTE

Don't use acetone on binocular or camera lenses, only alcohol. Many of these lenses have painted surfaces surrounding the lenses; acetone will dissolve and smear this paint across the lens and may damage any parts made from plastic or other materials.

[pat]

I have used regular Kleenex tissues over the years. And have had no problems with the older coatings using them. I just fogged the lens first. The nice thing about the tissue is that you can throw it away after use. There's a possibility the micro-cloth can become inbeded with dust or grit.

Also this tissure is safe to use.

I've now become over concerened. Not that it would make any differance. I use an air blower, brush, alcohol or a lens pen. Pat

[RonVen]

There's a product called ROR which comes in a small spray bottle (Residual Oil Remover). It's sold by Agena Astroproducts in the states. Seems to work well for all types of lenses and is advertised as safe for all multi-coated optical lenses.

[baggywrinkle]

Here you go: http://kurtmunger.co...rticleid35.html

I am in China at the moment....this article is obviously very subversive as it is being blocked by the bamboo firewall...

[ID1 john Ei3]

I am in China at the moment....this article is obviously very subversive as it is being blocked by the bamboo firewall...

I dare say that it is because of old "dirty Len's" actions (it's his foolt he has bean spi 3YElNG an gain on their optic output facilities,((Me sage, N co dead, 4 nat shone all, sec your ity,

reasons;-)).lol?).

BUT NOW BEING SERIOUS; Regarding Dirty lenses, I am not sure if whether all that holds true for a camera lens can be said to be true for EP's, as the uses are somewhat different, are they not? i.e. when the eye looks through the EP it is not in a fixed position & thus is more likely to come in line with any obstructive marks & dirt on the optic, where as the cameras focal point & area of the lens that it is centered upon is fixed. Please note that I am not an expert but this I believe is why we see the effect that is demonstrated so well in the test that you have above submitted via the link.

What I think we see in this test is that it is only when the area that is that part which is dirty or marked, obstructs the light path to the film or CCD sensor & is therefore obscured, does it have a serious effect on the visual image captured, plus of coarse it is a pity that the set of human eyes we have been supplied with does not have the ability to collect light over a period of time in order to produce an image, :-( BIG SHAME! "D" SIGN FLAW!! :-).

Please! If there are experts out there who can clarify what the similarities & differences are between an EP in use with the eye against the cameras use of it's optics it would be great if they could shed light on this subject, In the hope that we dim light gather ERS can attempt to comprehend such ideas & that we can read & see whY with our eyes, what is true & real, as there is nothing like seeing what is really true with your own eyes & wow when your mind realises what is true with your own two REAL eYez who knows what one might also realise is so.

[knightware2]

There's a product called ROR which comes in a small spray bottle (Residual Oil Remover). It's sold by Agena Astroproducts in the states. Seems to work well for all types of lenses and is advertised as safe for all multi-coated optical lenses.

Funny you should mention ROR. I use this in my cleaning regimen as described here: http://knightware.bl...ing-part-2.html

The flare that several posters reported is probably a thin film of oil on the eye lens surface. Several repeats of ROR and acetone will get it off. Some flare is also a symptom of eyepiece design. I owned a 17mm TeleVue Plossl many years ago, but it usually produced some flare on planets. I sold it to a friend who still has and uses the eyepiece. I had a C-8 at the time; my friend has various sized Newtonian reflectors.

Regarding scratching optics, apparently SiO2 is a very hard coating. I've seen a commerical mirromaker scrub a mirror with a lab grade alcohol soaked pad. I tried the same pads with light pressure on my mirror and did not care for the results. Some say that alcohol will deteriorate the aluminum coating if the SiO2 coat is compromised (i.e. has holes). The commercial mirrormaker countered that the SiO2 coat will protect the underlying aluminum.

Another point: Kleenex is actually quite abrasive, but modern SiO2 coatings might be able to withstand the abrasion. I would be careful though. I tend to prefer lots of repeats with cleaning solution and light pressure to an agressive scrubbing.

I hope this helps with keeping your eyepieces and mirrors working up to spec.

[pat]

Plain Kleenex tissue is definitely not abrasive! From the chemical composition and texture it is far superior to other products.

I suggest you read qualified material on this before you discourage other people from using it. Pat