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Everything posted by Venus_is_my_friend

  1. The best advice I can give is not to get into the trap of concerning yourself about other people's sketches. Some people are better than you, some are worse, you are your own person and are sketching for your own pleasure. In time you will see a personal improvement, like with anything you practise. Most importantly, if something doesn't work or doesn't look good, who cares it's the end of the world and you can always try again
  2. The shadow detail is brilliant! You can get a real sense of the height of crater walls, excellent work!
  3. Wow! Thank guys for all the great help and advice/warnings. As regards the eclipse glasses, I failed to realise but this quote from ronin says it all. "A car may be safe in a crash at 50mph, but at 200x faster, 10,000mph you are going to end up as a very thin pancake." Food for thought What kind of detail/image can I expect with a cheaperish (yeah it's a word) telescope and a solar filter film fitted firmly to the front (try saying that ten times when drunk)? Are we talking a white disc with black sun spots or can you draw out any detail around the sun spots or the edge of the disc? I have priced up some Lunt scopes in Japan and the cheapest is around £560, so I am just wondering if I can get some rewarding views and eventually photos without a solar scope? I only ask because I can still see the rising moon and planets from my balcony and if I can get a £200 odd scope to view them and then some addon for solar viewing it would help the bank balance. Thanks again, Neil
  4. Hello, Long time since I spoke on here due to many reason which may bore you. The main reason is I now live in Japan! Anyway as I have moved from dark skies to the bright lights I can no longer observe galaxies and nebulea so I have swapped my focus to Lunar, Planetary and now solar observation, so here comes my stoopid noobie questions. Can I buy a cheapist telescope and put baader solar film over the end and observe away? Do I need filters on the eyepiece or are they just to draw more detail out. i.e can I observe without them? What do I need to be able to see the enough detail on the sun as to see the typical "ball of flames" and not a flat disc with sun spots? And here come the potential dumb question of the month Can I look down a normal telescope wearing eclipse glasses? Thank you for reading, Be safe and warm. Neil
  5. Thanks Chris will try this! Do yo think this could explain why the alignment steadily got worst throughout the night?
  6. Hi all, I am in need of some help regarding my tracking and keeping alignment. The other night for the first time I managed to align the mount properly! I gave it some tough tests like slowing between M42 and M31 just to make sure it was spot on and it was! I then left it on M42 for a good ten minutes and noticed the tracking was off and it had drifted by half a degree from the centre. I pressed enter and it centred it, so at this point the alignment was still spot on, though the tracking wasn't. I then left it again whilst I went inside to make use of the facilities. When I came out I didn't re-centre M42 but instead went straight to Jupiter, which was just over half a degree off centre so I manually centred it. With each additional object I slewed to it seemed to get more and more out of alignment. The worst being M36 at the end if the session which was between 2-3 degrees out. What can I try to get my tracking working properly? Is there anything I can do about the alignment or is this probably due to the tracking being out? Thanks for reading, Neil
  7. **UPDATE** Well as promised here is a photo of the finished light shield. The woman said there was no light shield available, so the guy had to paint it. As you can see the light still shines into my garden and the shield is not not good enough to block it all out. BTW I view from the area of the patio that is hidden by the wall on the right of the picture. I e-mailed back to see if there was anything more the could do, but as there are garages behind my property they can't paint anymore than this. I have estimated that it blocks out around 20%-30% of the light and 80% of the glare when viewing objects in the North West (the camera is pointing West) I know it's not perfect but I am happy that I have an improvement
  8. Thieves can go into room 101 with Streetlights and Clouds. Also when you say intelligent description do you mean you gave them a stupid one "It could have been a man, I could have been an Alien." haha. Did you get your laptop back?
  9. When I were a lad we got taught:- My Very Early Morning Jam Sandwiches Usually Nauseates People. Now you need one of these to include all the Dwarf Planets, haha.
  10. Thanks for that one Naz, I would have missed that completely.
  11. Actually there is an arguement to streetlights shining into gardens increasing crime as it them the abililty to see in your garden without the use of a torch. A torch would be easy to spot in a dark garden. This has actually happened as well, in the local news someone saw someone in a garden and thought it was the owner as the garden was so well alight they figured a thief wouldn't be so brass. Also if people had security lights instead of street lights you would be alerted to movement in the garden. Also I would bet that a lot of house burglery happens during the day when it is daylight and people are at work, compared to at night when people are a home. That's just a guess, but it makes sense to me as I would rather enter someones house when nobody is home.
  12. It's so strange that my council passed my details on and it was sorted so easy but other council are just be awkward for what seems like no reason. Bunch of tossers.
  13. You have it spot on! I feel a bit stupid for not asking two years ago and just working around it, hopefully it will work. *fingers crossed*
  14. Here is the 'recipe' for success:- I e-mailled this to my local councils general e-mail. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dear Sir/Madam, I am wondering who I contact in relation to light intrusion from public street lighting? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ After the company they use contacted me this is what I wrote to them. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Thank you very much for your quick reply. I have a troublesome street light behind my house. I live on *INSERT ROAD NAME AND TOWN*. The street light is extremely bright and is intruding into my back bedroom and bathroom. We us this room for guests and despite some rather thick curtains the light can still be a problem with intruding in the room, people who have stopped the night have said it has put them off stopping again as they got a very disturbed sleep. It also shines into the bathroom and due to its design we are only able to have a shower curtain acting as a window. This makes relaxation in the bath rather difficult. I am also a very keen astronomer and the light makes it impossible to do any astronomy from my back garden as it shines so brightly only a few bright stars can be seen when in its glow. I was wondering what possible solutions there are available for this light? Thank you for your time, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I know it sounds a bit sappy and in place ass kissing but I figured it was the best way to get results. I also figured if I when at it from the Astronomy angle it might not get as much notice as if I went at it from the disturbed sleep angle. I will say be careful about lying, as some people have said that the company has agreed to meet them at their house to assess the situation and if you say you sleep in the back bedroom and the get there and find a study they might be less likely to help. I would assume that my council has given them the green light in advance to fit these to lights people complain about, as she never said "I need ask them" or anythign like that. Good luck to all, I will let you know what it looks like when it is fitted. Neil
  15. Two years ago I moved into a house with a white bulb street light behind it that shines in the garden. I built a light shield made from an old fence panel cut in half, that rest on top of my other fence panels, which worked great. Until I bought a CGEM and with my dobsonian mounted atop the eyepiece is too high the light shield to work. So I decided it was time to contact the council. I was expecting this to take weeks to resolve, here is the time line. Sunday 12:00 - E-mailled the council for the details of who looks after the street lights. Monday 08:30 - Got a reply saying my details had been passed on to the company they use. Tuesday 10:00 - Got a reply from the company asking for more details. Replied. Tuesday 12:30 - Got a reply saying they would fit a light sheild. Replied asking how long it would take. Tuesday 12:32 - Got told it would take until 22nd Jan at the latest, but he expected it to be done soon. In less than 48 hours and in only three e-mails I had the issues sorted. Now I am just waiting to see if it will be fully effective. Thanks for reading, Neil
  16. Hey, Does anyone know where the standard letter to write to the council is? I remeber seeing one on this forum a while back, but didn't need it then. I do now and can't seem to find it. Cheers, Neil
  17. What a loss to the universe. Thank you Patrick for your extrodinary life.
  18. Thanks for the continuing advice. Mav - I have started again with balancing the scope and have slightly weighted it to the left, so hopefully it will help. I think a polar scope could help. I don't understand how it could be off by as much as ten degrees if Polaris is not completely in the cane of the axis, but we will find out. I thought it could be the time, but after I set it to Daylights savings it was still way out. Any pictures would help actually. The new trick you said, doesn't completely sink in and I may need it explaining as you would a child, haha. Space - This is my next big idea for the next clear night, fingers crossed and hopefully not me cross.
  19. In the cold light of day... I was having a flick through the manual and came across the section talking about "R.A switch" and "GoTo Calibration" I have a skywatchers 10" dobsonian mounted atop mine, so I don't know if trying this will help but am going to give it a go. Ransu - Thanks for the photo, I had a look and everything there is tight. I also noticed that my tube is attached to the dovetail bar at roughly the same point yours it feels like the weight centre of the tube. Thanks for the advice. MikeP - I am going to look into this, because it does seem like this could be a possibility as last night it was over ten degree West of Capella (Auriga) and when I aligned it to Capella and then slewed to Regel (which is East of Capella) it merely dropped to low in the South and rested at a point that Regel can never be at from my location. Thanks for the tip, I will let you know. Todd - When you say the weights should be on the left, do you mean slightly weight it to one side of do you simply mean when you set up the telescope you should level the weights on the left and the tube on the right (horizontally)? I just read in the book the way to ensure you have Polaris in line with the scope, by taking the cap and the screw end off (who reads manuals, doh!) So I am going to try that. Is it at all possible that there could be a software problem? Or does it sound like its all me? Cheers once more for the help Neil
  20. After reading the manual I believe I have polar aligned it. Am I right in thinking this is when you get the bubble on the side central and then match the angle on the Polar alignment plate to your latitude, mine is 53.5? I went out again tonight and got some appauling results, including aligning the mount using Jupiter. Then going away for two minutes and coming back to find it hasn't tracked. Then asking it to find Jupiter and it failing by about one degree. I mean seriously is it me? Is my scope too big? Is there a secret trick to balancing the scope or the counter weights? I am starting to do daft things like set it Daylights savings and change the date. I tried to align it twelve times over the course of two hours and never manged it once, please someone tell me this big secret cos as I write this still full of anger I get the feeling I am not part of the big conspiracy, lol. I dont know if my mount might be broken, I mean how hard it is to break these mounts? Do they have a record of breaking? Thank for your advice btw, it is very appreciated and am open to all advice/ideas.
  21. When I say the counterweights are pointing north I mean that is the side of the mount facing north, I wasn't sure how to describe it. Basically then open end of my light bucket is point roughly in the direct of Polaris before I start my alignment proces. I have been using a 25mm for aligning the stars, if I used anything less I would probably struggle due to how off it has been. I used to do two star, but found when I slewed to the East the objects were way off, so have been trying three star instead. How much difference does it make with have the mount facing perfect North? What kind of difference does the wrong do? Do you have your nearest city or your actually co-ordinates? I haven't done a polar alignment as the mount says I can simple do a two or three star alignment. I am aiming at viewing a wide range of objects, so I know where they are. Some I haven't seen from this house and don't know if I can, so it's like I said before it would be good to have the confidence of knowing that when the mount slews me to something it will be in the eyepiece and if I can't see it, then it means it is too light polluted.
  22. Hi all, I so desperately need help with my Celestron CGEM mount, as I am really struggling to align it. The set up is:- The mount with a 10" dobsonian tube a top. The counterweights are properly set up and the tube doesn't pull to either side when moved. The latitude scale is set to 53.5, as I live near Leeds. Here is what I have been doing when outside (apologies if I get order mixed up):- Set the mount up outside with the counterweights pointing roughly north, there could be a small error here but it would only be by a few degrees either way. The time is set to my watch which I got the time from the GMT website. The time is set to Standard Time (last night it was) the only other option was Daylights Saving. The date was set to 11/12/12 (The correct date as it was after midnight, the date format it MM/DD/YY) The location was set to Leeds. Not sure if I missed anything off there, but I basically completed the setup process with the correct information. What happens when aligning:- It asked what star I want in the West and I choose one. It slews to it and if off by a few degrees. I find the star manually and centre it, then use the EP adjust to align it. It asks me for a second star in the West and again after I choose it it slews to it and this time is way off, as much as five to eight degrees. So again I manually find the star and centre it, then align it. It now asked for a star in the East, so again I choose one and it slews and it out by ten degrees! Now here is where last night the clouds came in before I could centre it. One previous nights though I have managed to get it aligned and have been ready to roll with my night. The problem after that:- Every time I slew to an object it is either just off centre, on the edge of the FOV and sometimes even outside the FOV and I have to manually scan for it. It seems to have more trouble with objects in the East as they are the ones that don't appear in the FOV. The west is a mixture of the other two. It has never managed to find an object and have it perfectly centred. One the up side once the object is found it does centre and track it. I know the problem may sound a little weak (Oh no I have to actually find the object myself etc) but I bought the mount to do this for me. Also there will be times I can't see the object due to light pollution and would like to have faith in my mount that the object is centred so I at least know this, rather than scanning for something I can't see from my location. All advice is welcome, though it may need to be dumbed down as I am struggling a bit with technical terms. Thank you for making it this far. Neil
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