MalcolmM

I was hoping to put my 60mm up against Armagh Observatory's mighty 10" Grubb refractor. It's a beautiful instrument, over 100 years old, driven by a clockwork drive, and was used in the compilation of the New General Catalogue of Nebulae and Clusters of Stars in 1888 by John Dreyer, the then director of Armagh Observatory.

Unfortunately, despite waiting for over two hours, the clouds defeated us and the shootout did not happen! Part of me was secretly glad, as this scope has the reputation of being an exquisite visual instrument, putting up spell binding views, though apparently the Grubb is quite nice too 🙂

Much as I love my little Tak, I think the 140 year old Grubb would have left it for dust!

Malcolm 

4 hours ago, Sunshine said:

I have the beauty! It is late and I must be at work early, will report tomorrow!

What a beautiful looking telescope! And big too! I'm sure the views through that will be outstanding!

Malcolm (very envious )

27 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

My philosophy too, Stu.

Mine too!

Malcolm 

25 minutes ago, johnturley said:

Do you think that there is much difference in quality between the T2 Zeiss prism diagonal, and the non- Zeiss version apart from the different size. As mentioned, I was thinking of getting the latter with a built in 1.25in helical focuser, as an alternative to fitting a MEF3 Micro Edge Focuser. 

Note: I do have a Baader 2in Dielectric Diagonal I can use for low power wide field views, where focusing is not so critical.#

John 

I have both Baader diagonals and can honestly say I have not noticed any difference visually, though I've not done detailed comparisons. The Zeiss does have a slightly longer lightpath which can pose problems with Binoviewers, but it has not caused me trouble yet.

I've also got the Baader helical focuser and would choose the MEF3 over it every time! I find the MEF3 much much easier to use. I never attach the Helical focuser these days.

Malcolm 

6 hours ago, John said:

As I understand it, steeper light cones (faster scopes) have a narrower zone of apparent sharp focus than slower scopes do

This is my understanding too and is noticeable when turning the f5.9 FS60CB into the f10 FS60Q with the CQ x1.7 extender.

Malcolm 

6 hours ago, Franklin said:

screwing a jam jar lid to the focus knob

Now where would I get a jam jar lid that would compliment my Tak? 🙂

Malcolm 

8 hours ago, Franklin said:

Once you know how they work it's quite easy to set them up. They actually work really well

8 hours ago, Franklin said:

but for visual they're a luxury not a necessity

Perfect summary 🙂

Malcolm 

Regarding the stiffness, I have tweaked the three grub screws on the top of the focuser to get it 'just right' as best I could. I have heard that each should be tweaked an equal amount so as not to unbalance the focus (image shift). The stiffness of the focus is very sensitive to these grub screws so a tiny turn on each should be all that's needed. I put a tiny amount of locktite on the grub screws when finished, to hold them in place.

This is what I have done based on information I read either on this forum or on Cloudy Nights, and have been very pleased with the outcome. Unfortunately I can't remember the link, but I'm sure a Google search would throw up some hits. It does however sound like it would not be the right thing to do if the middle grub screw was simply to hold the pad in place as mentioned above.

I find the stock Tak focusers excellent, very smooth, and easy to 'snap to' focus when adjusted well.

I did put an MEF3 on a 60CB, then moved it to my 100DC (my 60CB did not fit in my travel case so well with the MEF3). Very easy to install and brilliant! At high magnification, I can tweak the focus with no vibrations when on a lightish mount/tripod combination. It really does give me confidence I have got good focus.

Caveat is I have no experience with other focusers, but I really like the stock focusers, and really really like the MEF3! Oh, the other caveat is I'm very biased towards anything Tak 🙂

I hope you get a solution one way or the other. 

Malcolm 

I also love the simplicity of this mount. It's very easy to use. Great for low power sweeping and great for star hopping. It is also easy to pan at high magnifications (×180 is no problem). I use it on an Innorel CF tripod, which struggles a bit for stability when extended more than one section, but that's a tripod problem, not the Giro. I have not yet felt the need for a counterweight with a 100DC or a Mewlon 180.

Malcolm 

One telescope! I'd have to buy a load of cheesy ornaments to fill the shelves. No way!

Malcolm 

Fabulous pictures! The one of Montes Apenninus is particularly dramatic. 

Malcolm 

I really like widefield shots. This is particularly interesting for me as I was observing the embedded NGC604 in M33. It's very nice to see a widefield shot of the area I was looking at.

I also really like M33 framed in the wider context. Lovely image!

Malcolm 

So armed with @Nik271's directions, my Mewlon 180, and a Masuyama 32mm I gave this a go tonight. At 7.30 the sky was not great (I could only just make out Triangulum), but the directions were easy to follow and I spotted the 11th magnitude star, but not NGC604. I swapped the 32mm for a Masuyama 20mm and with averted vision was able to glimpse it occasionally. M33 was not visible at all. 

I tried again later at 10.00 when the sky looked a bit better, still not great, but this time I could see it with direct vision. It appeared like a small, irregular planetary Nebula. Also, with direct vision, I could see M33.

All in all, a very satisfying observation. Thanks @Nik271 for the tip and directions!

Malcolm 

2 hours ago, Nik271 said:

correct illumination, good seeing, quality equipment and of course, a sharp-eyed observer

Three out of four then 🙂

Malcolm (not so sharp) 🙂

Ironically, having mentioned still trying to spot Rima Sharp above, I got it this morning! I've updated your Sharp post with my observation. 

Malcolm 

I've been trying to catch this one since reading this post. Finally got it at 06.00 this morning in steady seeing! 24 day old moon (~32%). The North section appeared as a very thin dark line between the two headlands. I could not see the southern section. Also, an interesting rille was visible as a dark line between Sharp and Sharp A. I cannot find a name for it, but it is mentioned in 'Craters of the Near Side of the Moon' under the description of Sharp.

Tak FC100DC plus Tak diagonal plus 3.3mm Tak TOE. It was also visible with a 4mm TOE. I may be wrong but I feel it should have just been visible in a 3" scope. 

Malcolm 

Great report @Nik271 and another interesting target for my TODO list! You have made me aware of a number good targets from your posts. I'm still trying to spot Rima Sharp! So thanks 🙂

Malcolm 

@tico, your descriptions of your observing conditions, in my opinion, reinforce my reply to your PM. Everyone has different ideas of what small and light is and whereas a 100DC or 76DCU would indeed be light, I find the 60mm on a light mount and tripod so much easier to move about the garden than the 100 and 76. For me,  the compromise in aperture would be well worth it in order to have an ultra portable setup. And the reviews mentioned above, and the other ones I mentioned, show that the little 60mm can put up great views of the objects you are interested in.

This is what I consider portable; I don't normally have the finder attached so it's normally even smaller and lighter 🙂

11 hours ago, DirkSteele said:

Time to buy some more kit then that I won’t be able to use. Always makes me feel better.

I totally identify with this! It's taken all my will power and then some, to reign in my desire to buy more kit!

7 hours ago, John said:

The value of having a setup that can be quickly deployed is really proving itself I think

Totally agree and this is why my most used scope is my smallest (60mm). It was @DirkSteele's reviews of his adventures with an FS60/Q that helped persuade me to get a small scope. There are different views on what grab 'n' go is, but for me, it's lift the whole setup with two fingers, no complicated pirouetting to get it out a standard sized door, and no more than 15 seconds from picking it up to observing with it!

Malcolm 

Some great suggestions here. Thanks everyone!

Malcolm 

I've just logged a double star report. My observing notes were made at the eyepiece using a red head torch and pencil and paper. I find this awkward enough switching between eyepiece and pencil and paper while turning off and on the torch and trying not to kill my night vision. Luckily the night was dry so the paper did not become damp. I guess I could use voice recording on my phone. Does anyone have any tips on recording observations in scenarios where you want to keep your night vision intact or on nights when the humidity is high and logbooks become damp?

Malcolm

Trying for Doubles in Cassiopeia

Doubles is not my first choice, but I'm keen to get more experience at it, as it is less constrained by light pollution. So, this report can be seen in it's context as a beginner's 🙂

My goal was to try and observe all the doubles in Cassiopeia mentioned in "Turn Left at Orion", with my FOA60Q on an iOptron AZMP; a very stable setup. I do not use this in 'goto' mode, I prefer the pain of star hopping! There is a great feeling of satisfaction in star hopping to a dim target and actually finding it!

The night was clear and very steady but poor transparancy. The main 'W' of Cassiopeia was visible with Kappa and Achird only just visible naked eye and Iota occasionally out of the corner of my eye.

First up was Achird as it is very easily found. This was an easy split with a 28mm Erfle (x32). The primary was a definite yellow, but I could not discern any colour in the secondary (according to 'Turn Left at Orion' it should be red). I swapped the 28mm to a 6mm (x150) Abbe Ortho and a third star appeared, roughly six times the distance from the primary as the secondary is. This third star, very dim and no colour, is not actually part of the Achird system but is shown in TLatO roughly SE of Achird. With the 6mm, the secondary was still showing no colour.

Next was Iota which, not easily seen with the naked eye, was easy in the finder. Nothing was visible in the 28mm. Using a Tak Abbe Ortho 9mm (x100) I could see a small right angled triangle of stars. The inner secondary (B) was sitting on a diffraction ring and looked smeared out along the ring a bit. The outer secondary (C) was very dim sitting outside the diffraction ring. No colour was obvious (I guess that makes them white which ties up with TLatO!). Putting in the 6mm, 'B' was less smeared in the diffraction ring. A Kokusai Kohki 5mm (x180) Orthoscopic dimmed the image such that 'C' was very difficult to see.

On to Struve 163 which proved tricky enough to find using the little triangle of stars just beyond Epsilon Cassiopeia. I recorded the primary as very red, which contrasts with the orange as mentioned in TLatO. The 'B' companion was easy to spot using the 28mm but I was not able to see the 'C' companion at all, in any of the eyepieces.

Next I tried for Burnham 1. Using the 28mm eyepiece and the little star char in TLatO, I was convinced I had the correct star but was unable to see any of the secondaries. There was a very dim star roughly 1/10th the FOV away from the primary. This would possibly tie up with the pair of stars to the SW of the primary in the 10' circle diagram in TLatO, but this is a complete guess.

This failure and the fact that I'm trying to navigate at roughly the zenith and getting quite cold persuaded me to call it a night. Very enjoyable though and I'm looking forward to trying for Struve 3053 and Sigma Cassiopeia another, hopefully more transparent, night where the colours are more obvious and I can see deeper.

Malcolm

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Great reply @Franklin, that's me told 🙂

I'll maybe start off just using it to store the scopes after a session and bring them indoors the next morning. See how it goes.

Interesting re observatories. I know the domes up at Armagh observatory have dehumidifiers running. My shed is fairly airtight so minimal ventilation. It's just been put up recently and is actually a summerhouse (shed with windows!) otherwise I'd be tempted to put in some ventilation. 

Malcolm 

Is it OK to keep refractors and/or open ended reflectors in a garden shed?

I'm not so concerned about security, it's locked, but more whether the cold and unheated atmosphere might do the optics or mechanics harm?

Thanks, 

Malcolm 

Really enjoyed reading the review @DirkSteele, as I have all your others. Your reviews have helped/persuaded me on a number of scopes and accessories, all of which are keepers! I like the history section which gives great context and added interest. 

I see from another thread you now have a 100DC; looking forward to a comprehensive review on it 🙂

Malcolm