Andyy
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Everything posted by Andyy
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Pinched optics usually results in trefoil-shaped stars. This is not the case here. In this case I think the collimation screws slightly enters into the light path while holding the lens cell. I do not recommend trying to fix the problem yourself.
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The "spikes" you are seeing are artifacts from collimation screws of the lens cell. It varys with temperature and apparently cold makes it worse/more visible. Very common on William Optics and similar telescopes from the same manufacturer. Not sure if it's classified as a defect. Had the same problem with mine If you can live with it don't bother.
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@alacant I was afraid to adjust the spider vanes, but it seem to do the trick! Much better now. Update1: I managed to collimate the scope, finally. Took a whole week but I've learned a lot about collimation. Image session is running right now, and the starfield is looking good! Update 2: I did a more precise adjustment of the spider vanes today in daylight and now the whole image train literally snapped into place and ligned up perfectly.
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Green line is shorther than the yellow line. This image is taking when collimation screws removed and the secondary is screw all the way in to the stalk
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Hi! I've been collimating my 130PDS for hours now... I've used cheshire, collimating eyepiece, laser, camera you name it.... Problem is the secondary mirror is not centered under the focuser. When I mean not centered I mean I can clearly see the secondary mirror stalk is positioned to "high" in the draw tube. I've done nothing to adress the problem other than trying to compensate for it with collimation. It doesent seem to work and I'm about to give up.... What should I do? Adjust the focuser or adjust the spider. I did try to measure the spiders and it seems like they are positioned equally all four.
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Yes, very strange. But 13v is well within Skywatcher voltage spesifications for the EQ6-R listed on their website. I have the older version of the mount without USB connection. They may have changed this in newer version. I plan to do a full strip down of the mount when the seson is over. Hopefully I'll get it to run even smoother. It’s a great mount.
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I noticed almost no voltage drop during slewing so my mount actually needed 13v operate properly. I'm not sure this is normal but there a multiple threads online implying the EQ6-R is voltage hungry.
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The problem went away at 13.8v Also I did adjust the worm slightly and now the mount is running very smooth.
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Thanks! According to the users manual: Power Requirement DC11~16V 4A Guess it safe to adjust the output on my power supply to 13v and see if helps.
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The RA motor on my EQ6-R Pro motor is stalling during goto. It does not happen when sleewing using HC bacause I can only move one axis at the time. The HC reads 11.5v at the lowest when sleewing. I can slew full motion with HC with no problem but once I load up the mount (carefully balanced) and use goto the motor is stalling. Can it be a power problem (voltage drop) or is it something else? I'm currently using a 12v 5amp switching power.
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I'll answer my own question in case others experience the same. After som research I found out that there rings are quite common in obstructed optics and there is nothing wrong. The rings are caused by the secondary mirror. They can even be seen on images taken by the Hubbe Space Telescope. When processing images the rings easily blends in and become more or less invisible in the final image.
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What causes these diffraction ring pattern around bright stars? Visible in single subs but become more prominent in the stacked image. Equipment used: Skywatcher 130PDS, Baader MPCC MK III, Baader 7nm Ha filter, ZWO ASI1600MM
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Managed to get them out and replace them with Bobs knobs. Inital collimation done, now wait for clear skies for star test! Thanks @Jamgood
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Is it necessary to loosen the center screw? What tool did you use for the collimation bolts? I’m afraid to twist the spider vanes…
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130PDS came in today and looking good! Collimation is slighty off, but the collimation screws on the secondary are extremely tight (all three)! Any tips to loosen them? Thanks!
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Thanks! I plan to use my ASI1600 with the 130PDS and I already have the MPCC. I’m looking at the TS FUFmpcc adapter for a more secure connection. Will this adapter make the «pacman star» problem even worse?
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Guess it apply for the PDS-line of scopes then. Hate to make drastic changes like cutting the drawtube to get things right. I think I’ll takena closer look at the GSO-line of newts. Or maybe refractor is the way to go for me…
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Star shape problems only apply for 130PDS right, not the 150PDS?
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Is it neccessary to cut the drawtube to avoid pacman stars when using MPCC and ASI1600MM?
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Sounds good!
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Is it possible to use the SW Aplanatic coma corrector on the 130PDS?
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130PDS focuser will it handle EFW and OAG
Andyy replied to Andyy's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
I've got much better results using OAG lately so I plan to stick with OAG. The thrid screw is needed, but still my main concern is tilt in focus barrel whith the uneven weight of the EFW... -
Hi Will the focuser on the 130PDS handle ZWO cool camera with 8 position FW and OAG? It close to 1.5kg of camera equipment.
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Thanks! I think I will The guiding graph on my prevoious Vixen GP with Synscan kit was miles ahead of anything I got with my HEQ5 mount.
