LandyJon

1 hour ago, Carbon Brush said:

 The CR series cells have an easy naming convention, used across manufacturers.

A CR2032 means it is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm thick. A CR2450 is 24mm dia and 5mm thick. you get the idea.
They are all 3V cells it is the capacity (milliamps x hours) that varies.
Given these are used at low current to retain a real time clock, or a memory chip, capacity is not that important.
OK a big cell lasts 10 years and a small cell only 3.

I was just coming back to make this point I'd remembered, but reading through you beat me to it.

Yes, for the OP, any of those CR batteries would do the job, they're just different sizes to fit in different holders / watch backs etc.  Where space is limited or a specific size holder has been used.

If its just on the wire, the larger cell would last longer but on a several years timescale for the convenience if you can get a direct plug in replacement 2032 or 2025 for a few £ from RS it could be the solution.

Just googled and plenty 2032s with the straight tails or wired to a 2 pin plug, maybe an adapter available to the 4 pin or cut and solder.  If theres room in the casing theres even 2032 holders that once soldered to the 4 pin plug would make switching batteries easier next time.

A quick Google and you can get that CR2430 battery with pigtails, just need to solder the wires on.

not sure if this is what you ment, but desoldering the pigtails worried me with potential shorts soldering on to the new battery.

Having the pigtails from the factory and soldering your harness on seems easy enough ...

https://www.google.com/search?q=cr2430 battery with pigtail

£5 from ebay etc.

Ouch ! Hope you're fit for spring Peter, wishing you a speedy recovery.

3 hours ago, James111 said:

I hope damien manages to get the big dob set up this year.

I think we all do ... if the dob mob are setting up it means the rest of us aren't cloud dodging or guzzling whisky/whiskey/whiski/wiske (delete as appropriate 😉)

Q1 - that'll be a good cable, my only concern might be the size of cable you have there in the picture, the red one that goes from the battery to the cigar socket, its hard to see the guage its a little blurry, as long as its not too thin.

Q2 - that cigar socket splitter is only 5A and thats not per socket it'll be total, so if considering a triple for future expansion there won't be much scope in Amperage to add maybe dew heaters to the mix.  I'd guess you're probably within tolerance adding the PI but is your camera cooled needing its own power aswell ?

Anyway, as a truck driver I've found some of our 12/24v splitters to be much more robust, you can pick them up in truck stops (not motorway services) but also RoadKing are a good supplier.

This ones rated to 12A which may be overkill (unless adding dew heaters) but doesn't have USB, however a cheap USB adapter will run the PI

https://www.roadking.co.uk/cigarette-adaptors/3-way-cigar-lighter-socket-12a-12v-24v.html

This ones 8A with 2x USB

https://www.roadking.co.uk/cigarette-adaptors/2-way-socket-with-dual-usb-switch-panel-12v-24v.html

Have a look around, but searching for 24v will usually find you the sturdier truck ones, they'll work on 12v but you're more likely to find the higher Amp stuff and less likely to see the bell wire low Amp stuff like Argos and motorway services / petrol stations sell.

Always better to have higher rated wiring / connectors, especially when operating at the lower temperatures we subject them to.

Hope that helps.

I just filled the gap between it and the data cable with a couple little strips of rubber, a short one at the end where the power cable narrows and a couple zip ties secured it.

Now it plugs in with the data cable and the screws secure it.

Not a great pic, its heavily zoomed in from a wider angle, but you can get the idea, fill the gap and tie the 2 together, never had a problem ... theres fate tempted 🙄

There's a good web page somewhere all about speeding up solve times.

Here it is ...

https://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/tutorial-setting-up-and-using-astrotortilla-for-plate-solving.html

It relates to installing Astrotortilla which I use, but some of the speeding up bits further down the page would work for any software, since they all use the same set of files.  Just remember when you do get new equipment you may need to add back files to get it working.

1. I have a feeling you can, just having a look ... yes, there it is, in the Help window (F1 or from the left side menu), the keys should be first display in the Help tab ... down at the bottom should be the "Edit keyboard shortcuts", you can set primary and alternative and set countless unassigned shortcuts.

2. Are you using EQMOD or GSS to control the mount, if not this cound make things a little easier, GSS (Green Swamp Server) I prefer, but both have Park buttons to return the mount to the weights down scope up position. If you have trouble removing the scope there, GSS can set user defined alternative park positions so you can have one anywhere you like to remove the scope, then park to home position so the mount is back to where it should be.

If you're not using either and just having Stellarium make the connection, then ctrl+0 brings up the Slew To window and in there you can set positions in the three dots (...) botton and then use the drop down menu to select them and Slew To.

Hope that helps.

I use Share GPS app my phone ...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jillybunch.shareGPS

The focus motor from Starlight Instruments can be disengaged allowing manual control.

https://www.starlightinstruments.com/product/hsm-handy-stepper-motor-with-manual-focus-over-ride/

Are you using EQMOD ? 

I seem to remember having trouble with Stellarium and EQMOD so I switched to GSS (Green Swamp Server) I think its better all round, has configurable Park positions, I have one scope up for resting light panel on for flats and can connect to a GPS sharing app on your phone to retrieve location data if you go to starcamps/dark sites.

The other thing I have different, looking in my settings, Telescope Control By is set to ASCOM and Coordinate System is JNow, I forget if these were GSS specific changes or not.

Hope you get it working. 

Edit : Just thought, are you connecting to laptop via the synscan handset, have you selected PC Direct Mode in the handset menu ? not sure if you have to on newer ones but older ones you do.  Depends if you've already got the mount to work with other software or not, but something else to try.

The cable you have will work, you just need to connect it to the bottom of the synscan hand controller while it is connected to the mount.

Then you need to power on, go through the menus to find 'PC Direct Mode' and that will through put the connection from laptop to mount.

The auto guider port is for connecting a guide camera only to send simple correction pulses.

The FTDI cable is a simpler solution, but both methods work equally well, you just need to plug it in the right place.

Hope that helps.

I've watched this thread with sympathy hoping you got it solved.

I've read some very good advice diagnosing your primary issue to be a mal-seated bearing and incorrect nut and solutions to remedy it with little to no cost.

I've seen recent replies and thought oh maybe he's getting somewhere, let's see ... oh he seems to be ranting at the people trying to help him.

Doublevodka has explained how to press the bearing in with a long bolt and washers or a socket as michael8554 suggested last week.

Is the motor dead ?

Is the control board dead ?

Are the gears knackered ?

Is the AZ axis loose with a mal-seated bearing and a loose nut ?

If you want to rant at Celestron support, I'm sure they've got plenty social media to vent your frustrations at.

If you want community support, you've been given it, come back when you've tried it and it worked and you're in a happy place again 🙂

If it doesn't work, come back and ask what the next step would be, or just take a hammer to it and move on with your life.

No offence but that last rant didn't even look like you'd read doublevodkas reply, it certainly gave no thanks for it, I guess courtesy is a commodity these days.

Laptops don't seem to come with many USB ports these days, my new one last year has 1 full size and 2x small C type USB (like on phones) but don't worry too much about how many or what type, little C to full size adapters are cheap on amazon and you only really need 1 port on the laptop.

As Budgie1 suggested, its easier and tidier to have a 5 or 7 port (future proof) USB hub zip tied or sticky velcro'ed to the mount or tripod leg.  All your cabling then routes round the mount leaving slack looms for each RA DEC axis, down to the hub where you can plug in a short 1m USB lead and sit there next to it, or get a 5m/10m powered USB extension lead and sit in the warm kitchen watching your subs come in.

Not sure how DSLRs connect to laptops, hopefully someone with experience can help there, but if they can be made to work with the astro capture softwares like Sharpcap etc. they have so many features that will help you, like focus tools and polar alignment aids. If you can run the DSLR captures from the laptop, then I'd have the guidecam to the laptop too and run guiding with PHD2

I wouldn't be too daunted by cleaning the sensor, as long as you're careful and follow the instructions in that pdf I linked from ZWO using a proper sensor cleaning kit off amazon or wherever.

Its just a matter of unscrewing 4 screws (or twisting off the whole end cap on older models) and the sensor is there in front of you.

Ideally with these cameras you want to keep the chamber factory sealed, but since you've already opened the dessicant chamber thats no longer the case, so I don't see the harm in popping the lid off to solve your problem properly.

Best of luck either way.

I cant help you with cables/connections for your mount, but others have offered solutions there.

But I would say take a look at AO.com before you buy from argos or dell as suggested.  Cant fault them for countless electrical purchases, price matching even the most dodgy looking websites and customer service have bent over backwards to resolve any issues.

That said, a quick look and I found a similar Acer, but with 16Gb RAM, good for larger subs and post-processing abilities, comes in under £600

Nearer the same price is a Asus which I personally prefer brand wise, also 16Gb RAM but with the Intel I5 processor, which my (although out of date) knowledge on processors believes are ment to be better.

Anyway, compare the options there before you buy.

Edit .. should add the price match works great, when you've decided which one you want, Google the model number and find the cheapest dodgy'est looking website you wouldn't consider purchasing from for fear of not getting anything delivered or your money back ... ring AO and they'll match the price as long as the site says its in stock ready to dispatch.  Saved me loads off already decent prices.

Saw your post a while back but couldn't add to what had been said already.

Sorry to read your still having trouble, at this stage maybe try replace the sensor window.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-ar-replacement-protective-windows.html

I presume you followed this guide when you recharged the dessicant 

https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/manuals/How_to_clean_ASI_camera_and_redry_the_desiccants_EN_V1.2.pdf

Not something I've done, but if you've already had it apart replacing the window and cleaning the actual sensor could be whats needed.

Edit oh you said you'd cleaned the sensor already, not sure this will help, you did both sides of the window too I guess ?

Have you tried a flat frame without the sensor window, it would at least confirm if the error is on the sensor or the window.

Welcome, hope you find a good entry scope and you and your daughter enjoy some clear skies looking up, make sure she's got warm clothes and a hat n gloves, she's anything like mine she won't enjoy the cold.

Enjoy 👍

1 hour ago, jamie56 said:

got myself a new tube

What you got ? The eq6 is pretty sturdy, my 9.25 EdgeHD with image train is close to but I think within its limits.

5 minutes ago, drdre2030 said:

I've got a Nikon D5500 that could be set up too.

Just need a T adapter, attaches to the camera instead of its lens and makes it fit in a 1.25" eyepiece socket, they're £15 ish

It'd need some kind of remote shutter (cable/wireless) or delayed shutter ... basically touching the camera to expose introduces movement and blurs any image.

But yeah, get a scope and get her interested first.

Also you can take photos just by holding your phone camera close to the eyepiece of any telescope, they won't be great, but a nice reminder of things you've looked at together.

There's also cheap phone holder clamps on amazon that attach your phone to an eyepiece, so don't totally dismiss the idea of getting some pics 🙂

9 minutes ago, Elp said:

The thing you need to have in mind with a long focal length is trying to find and centre a target becomes much more difficult as you are more "zoomed in" to the field, so a slight minor nudge of the scope will be massive in the eyepiece (mechanical slow motion controls help in this regard). Your target will also drift across the eyepiece field of view quicker due to Earths rotation so you'll have to adjust the scope position every few seconds.

Good point, I'm used to being on tracking eq mounts for imaging, OP situation just reminded me how excited my 2 (5 and 7yo) were after seeing saturns rings when I put an eyepiece on the 9.25 ... took me a bit to find, manually moving an EQ6 with no finder scope, but I had tracking to keep on it.

The celestron SCTs come on goto alt az mounts so you can find targets easily and recentre them, if you find a cheap WiFi module the phone app can control it from a star map.

I guess its a trade off, and a question of budget, they are a bit more than you were thinking of spending too, even for the smaller 4"

Just giving you an alternative 

I'd look on Facebook Marketplace if you haven't already, if she loses interest after a few goes you can always put it back on there for the same money you paid and find something else for her.

SCTs (Schmit-Cassegrain) have very long focal lengths in a compact tube so they'll give good views of the planets, a quick look theres a Celestron 4SE around £250 near me, the bigger ones go over £500 last I saw.

Newtonians are bulky and the eyepiece sits high off the ground,, so might be more awkward for a youngster.

Refractors are small units but at your budget as others have said, likely have a flimsy tripod that would be an unstable viewing experience.

End of the day, you'll get your money back on 2nd hand and if she takes to it you can upgrade bits over time.

Sounds like you're about set, just make sure you've got the sensor the right distance from that reducer, as a field flattener it converges the light path so it is flat at a set distance from the lens, anything closer of further away and it'll distort the stars at the outer edge of your sensor.

It all takes practice, a lot of your first few attempts will be figuring out how it all works, what capture software are you using ? I find Sharpcap really easy to use, the pro version for a little over £10 for the year includes some great tools for polar alignment and recommended exposure/gain settings based on your target and current viewing conditions.  Others rave about Nina but I haven't tried it.

Oh do you have a light pollution filter of some kind ? You'll likely get a lot of glow unless you're in low bortle skies, bortle 6 here so I've just got a tri-band for nebulae, my broadband LPF wasn't quite enough but I'll keep it for galaxies.

You'll get the hang of it, if polar align is good, you can expose 3min without guiding, get to grips with your capture and calibration frames and stacking (DSS- deep sky stacker) then start thinking about guiding to perfect the data once you know what you're doing to get it.

Also look up plate solving if you haven't already. As I said, cliff of a learning curve, but you'll need that to centre your target.

Good luck tomorrow

Edit: oh and you mentioned planets, thats a whole different kettle of fish, I'm only just scratching the surface of.

Welcome to the hobby, you'll find lots of info here with a quick search and plenty people willing to help/advise if you ask a question.

I'm not local, but having learned from beginner using a 6SE on an EQ6 with a small 183 sensor, my 1st advice would be get a reducer lens in there if you haven't already.  You'll need to set the back focus from it to the sensor (165mm if memory serves but look it up), but it will widen the field of view so you'll be able to image some of the bigger/brighter/easier stuff, it also brings the acquisition time down so you won't spend so long getting good images to begin with.

Youll also want to be guiding on these long focal lengths, so again, if you haven't already, get a little planetary type webcam on a finder scope and look up PHD2 guiding.

Its a learning cliff you've jumped off with a long focal length but persevere, its worth it.

Clear skies