powerlord

one way, is to push it with a finger - it it feels the same force to make it move both ways, yer good.

slightly more technical - pull up with an elastic band - note length when it moves. should be same other end.

If you want to get more fancy, attach a luggage scale and pull up. should be same both sides.

stu

very nice. Yup, as still learning I'm taking every opportunity I can. Focusing (sic) on North America at the moment. I took broadband with h-alpha with a DSLR (see this forum), and the other day took some oiii (which is very washed out on bottom half.. I'm wondering if light leakage). Next time sii. All with the DSLR as that's what I've got.

Narrowband seems to work ok last weekend even up to 3.30am. The h-alpha for example was really noise free in the R channel.

Er..as a newbie.. what is yours off ? I want to say jellyfish.. as that's what it looks like but nebula names are not the most sensible sometimes.

 Because safari shows you graphically where it is in the sky. Asiair doesn't.

WiFi wise, all u need is a 15 quid extender with ethernet. You set up extender on mount, plug in to asiair with ethernet cable and now your asiair is wired into your home network. The extender has big external antennas so has no probs extending/connecting to your main WiFi.

Now power wise, you want it to run of 12v right? Well all extenders I've taken apart have a 240v circuit board separate, that outputs either 3.3v or 5v dc. So all you do is bin the 240v board, and replace with a wee 12v to 5/3.3v buck regulator (see ebay for about 2 quid). End result is a WiFi extender which can be powered by 12v from asiair.

AND if travelling, you just flip the extender to Ap mode in the field, and you can now directly connect to your asiair from yer tent, motorhome, whatever.

Simples.

Stu

That's why I did what I did Dave. Maybe I should do a video on it, as it's maybe not easy for the non techies ? basically I don't use the asiair wifi at all, but can access it anywhere from my home wifi. Stuff like converting the extender to 12v from 240v for example is actually pretty easy I think for anyone who can solder a bit.

And yeh, I think it's easier if you are at the start of the AP journey and not bought stuff yet - then it's not a big deal to stick to zwo stuff. If you have already invested in other gear I can see why it's not a good match.

I'm kinda waiting for news at work - if it's good news, I plan to splash out on asi1600, zwo 8 filter wheel, full set of filters and zwo focuser - which will really let the asiair shine. Problem is I'm not sure I want to part with the vast number of DSLR lenses and my DSLRs I've accumulated in the last 4 months.

This is how it starts isn't it ? I am going to have a fecking house full of AP stuff by the end of the year. I'm alread into regular photography and video and must have around 10 4k video cameras.

stu

I went straight to ASIAIR PRO, so again, can't do a compare. But for me, I love it. Yes, it limits you to ZWO cameras (though supports loads of DSLRs), ZWP filter wheels, ZWO focusers. It does support all mounts.

Up front: looked through first telescope when i got one in January, started imaging in March.. so I am no expert.

My view is for me, it's absolutely great. The AP is not quite as easy as synscan as not live adjust - but still can PA usually to  less than 1 second in about 8 mins.

The app is solid reliable and very well integrated - allowing guiding, dithering, etc. You setup autoruns for your targets, and fire it off. You can livestack too if you want, and the results are every bit as good as from APP in my eyes, though I tend not to, as I don't have a need for it unless I'm trying to impress mates.

I still use DLSR live view for focusing with a bahtinov mask.

It live stretches each shot it takes, so its really easy to see if you are actually where you want to be for a nebula, etc - whereas before I was shooting based on histrogram on DSLR and of course couldn't actually see anything bar a star or two on the DLSR while shooting - which was a pain.

My setup is an EQ5, manually updated by me with EQSTAR PRO goto. OTA is usually a 72ED, but sometimes make127 or DSLR lenses. I've got a 200p, but not used in anger yet with it.

I guide with a 120mm and main camera usually 6D or 1200D or ASI224.

My guiding usually under 1 sec rms with this crufty old EQ5. I get 600 sec exposure fine with the 72ED and 6d.

It all 'just works' frankly. any issues I've had have been due to slight quirks with the EQSTAR bit rather than ASIAIR.

Using it with a big samsung tablet is a pleasure - I spend about 30 mins now setting up in evening, then retire to my bed, and fart about looking at stuff, setup targets and let it get on with it. You can set it to park mount back home and turn everything off at the end of session.

It also can do video with ZWO cameras, but Ive not tried that yet.

So pretty much nothing but praise for it. I've posted a few times over the last few weeks about this, and realise I'm in danger of sounding like a fanboy/zwo shill - but imho if you are happy to pay 300 quid for a pi4, custom power board and a fancy case. But imho the work has gone into making the software integrated, easy to use and building a great mobile app. As a software architect I know how difficult that is - and I am impressed how well they have managed to pull everything together into an easy to use mobile app.

There are folk trying to hack other stuff into it, but general view is that its not using indi drivers for cameras/etc so can't extend to non-zwo stuff.

It will also let you control the cooling on ZWO cameras, control 12v dew heaters by output voltage, etc.

I have a 256gb very fast usb stick stuck in it, and I have it ethernet wired to a wifi extender -  all on the mount. So it's basically on my home network meaning I can access it anywhere in my home.

Also, it supports EQMOD with safari, meaning you can run safari on tablet too, and see where the mount is pointing and control if required easily - I use that to move targets a bit sometimes off a nebula 'centre' for artistic framing, etc.

Also, as you can only set targets based on the classified name (why ? wish they'd update this), I use safari to get that often. i.e. finding out elephant nebula is IC1396, and then search that in ASIAIR and goto.

stu

It's a good channel. entertaining. Other than the rabbit, his schtick is a bit top gear - you know.. something terrible always goes wrong or dumb mistake, but it all works out in the end. Which I assume must be planned as it happens every time. And I wish he had more info in his descriptions. For example I was watching

and near the end he says 'both were grading using an automatic grading tool'.

well.. ok.. what ? startools ? PI ? Be good to know.

It's not one for detailed tutorials or reviews, but for entertainment, it's definately the best astro channel out there for sure.

6 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

Thank you Stu, I can't afford anymore outlay to but the asiair sadly. I wouldn't be able to access any Internet with my laptop whilst imaging as itl be in a communal area behind my flat out of range of my WiFi, so I could just connect my mount via WiFi I think I'm correct 

yup correct.

youve therefore got all you need to start guiding. I can't recommend the best of easiest windows software I'm afraid, because 1. i use asiair, and 2. im a macos user. So I'll leave software choices to others but I suspect all you need is PSD2.

stu

2 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

This sounds the simplest of all, but would it guide using this method or is this just cutting out apt, sorry if I'm being thick. 

I was saying no need to wire the DSLR in for  now if you want to simplify - laptop will still do guiding etc. you'll still need all the stuff I said (or do it wifi), but you could leave DSLR control, plate solving, till later. You'd just keep using synscan to do your 2/3 star align, PA, etc.

But just my opinion - and I know there are strong feeling either way here, so you need to decide where you wanna go - but I'd recommend asiair everytime - original 2nd hand for 90 quid. And it just works.

However others will tell you windows and all that software just works, or astroberry just works, etc - each to their own - I can only say what my experience was - I was like you '$%@£@£ I need what now .. kstars does what ? and now I need ekos.. and what is psd2 ? and does that control camera or do I still need sharpcap.. and this APD thing.. and do they talk to  each other and where do I start.. and jeez this is complicated - [removed word] it, I'll get an asiair - 30 mins reading manual, 30 mins watching youtube - first night I'm guiding and dithering for the first time, I'm controlling dslr for first time, I'm plate solving for first time - absolute revelation.

stu

p.s. if ZWO is reading this, I will accept an ASI1600 pro as payment for being your mouthpeice

p.p.s. not really - no connection. just think its a great product.

sure wifi will work, just be aware you will lose internet access from the laptop - assuming it was previously using wifi for internet.

I started that way, but soon moved to a cable that 'just works'. But yeh - give it a try that way first by all means.

Of course, while sounding like a ZWO shill - buy the asiair in classified for 90 quid. bin the laptop. access via tablet or mobile. no need for any farting around with 100 different windows programs. even the first asiair will do everything the laptop does, not setup, no fuss inc plate solving, dslr contol, guiding, dithering the lot. As a numpty to all this - I got mine and on the very first night I was imaging. On the second night I took this - so imho it was the best purchase I've made so far in astro.

stu

make up an EQDIR cable, or buy one. This is USB to RJ11 which you can use to connect to the AZGTI. This allows the laptop to directly control the azgti.

Guide camera plugs in to laptop.

And to get fancy, plug the DSLR into the laptop via USB. This will allow your software (e.g. Kstars, EKOS, etc) to plate solve and control your DSLR AND mount, meaning no more need to do any aligning or use synscan at all.

But you can leave that out if you want, and use synscan (pc or mobile) to setup as usual, PA and then control DSLR via intervalometer, etc.

Basically guide ports are a bit rubbish. the protocol they use is very basic. Allowing your mount to be controlled via ascom EQMOD drivers is far better - and all you need is the EQDIR cable.

If yer handy - all you need is a TTL USB cable for about a fiver from ebay, lop off the end, and wire it to the USB (pin outs easily found - there are only 4 pins). If not so handy, buy one for 20 quid.

If you really dont want to do this, then you plug a guide cable (rj11 to rj11) from camera direct to your mount. And the laptop basically communicates through the camera to tell the mount what to do. But you'll get far better functionality and accuracy by doing it the way I've recommended above.

stu

Have a look here.

https://astrobackyard.com/light-pollution-filters/

You'll find they cut off below 400 (UV), and above 750 or so (IR)

stu

3 hours ago, LaurenceT said:

Thanks for the very useful replies, I shall be investigating using a UV/IR filter. Why would a clip in filter be better than a screw in front mounted filter?

My processing of this image would have fairly "agricultural" when compared to the large amount of processing of astro images I've seen people doing. I come from a background of many years wildlife and macro photography where the post processing required is minimal compared to astro pp. I'm learning Affinity to be able to post process more effectively.

 

I was the same -  been into photography for 35 years... you soon realise AP is a different ball game - think of taking the 'subs' as just getting the raw ingredients for your recipe.

Then it's up to you to make that recipe end up as either a pot noodle or a michellin star meal.

Realising that was what helped me switch up a gear and realise I had to learn more for processing. I use StarTools and Affinity.

Have a look on youtube for affinity tutorials which are very good at showing how to use Affinity with AP.

Filiter wise, if you are in an area with light pollution, if you get a light pollution filter (CLS or UHC ), that will double as an IR/UV filter. 2 burds, 1 stone

stu

So, advice help wise - what are you finding ? are you ok setting up your mount ? aligning it (its an AZ one I think ?).

I reckon your main problem is you have a massively powerful OTA at 2350mm on an AZ mount. Its really for visual stuff.

You're just not going to be able to get long exposure on that I doubt at all (by long I mean say, 2 mins or so). Can you even get 30 seconds ? I started with a mak127 which is 1300mm and and azgti in az mode,and was lucky if I could get 20 seconds or so. you have double the FL.

And of course the problem with those celestron jobs is you can't just get another OTA and pop it on.

IF you want to do stuff that involves taking pics of nebula and the like, you might be better selling what you have, and getting something like an AZGTI and wedge. That's the cheapest way into EQ goto astro. And get a more widefield OTA - something like an 80ED ? That will get you great views of moon, DSOs, etc. And with your camera on the back you should be able to get 2 min+ subs easy with the AZGTI in EQ mode. No need got guiding, etc for that. And the AZ GTI will cope with other scopes later if you want them - say a mak127 like mine, etc.

That'd be my advice anyway. The good news is the market is so bouyant just now you will get a good price for your current kit.

it's not gonna make a lot of difference for stars imho. Usually modified just removes the IR filter, which has the side effect that we want of letting in the h-alpha more.

So - you need to point it at something thats got lots of h-alpha.

At the moment that means something like North America nebula which you'l see in the same forum myself and another op have posted pics of.

What you should then see is a lot of of the nebulosity vs non modifed camera. If it was earlier in the year M42 is the best target to demostrate the difference.

As it's full spectrum though I believe you should be putting an UV/IR filter on for astro use otherwise you get star bloat - which I think there is some of in your image ?

What do you call decent ? Just in case your more picky than me. I've been doing this about same as you (5 months with scope, last 3 months doing AP).

Took the following last night and pretty chuffed with it.

Here a few others I've taken the last 3 months or so. If those pass as decent for you, happy to give you the advice of a one eyed man in the kingdom of the blind.

OK, bit of a breakthrough for me last night - took 85 mins of H-alpha. That's first time I've used narrowband. And it's with a colour Canon 6D.

I could not believe the clarity and lack of noise in the resultant stack.

I merged it into the RGB data I took a few nights ago, I, for me, it's one of the best images I've managed so far I think (again - only been doing this 5 months so be kind).

I love the way the cloud really feels 3d and popping out at you now. Just wow.

Next clear night I'll try the same target with Oiii and Sii and try for a hubble pallet job.

I didn't expect to get good results with this with the Canon, and my newbie numptyness - but frankly I'm well chuffed with this - especially considering we are a week away from the shortest night and I'm still managing to grab this out the sky. I believe it calls for a G&T to celebrate!

stu

Hi chaps, I've just bought a secondhand C8 for 400 quid which seemed a decent price ? what do you think ?

Plan is to buy the f6.3 reducer/corrector (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/celestron-f63-focal-reducer.html)  and use it for AP stuff as an upgrade from my wee mak127.

Once I get my ordered EQ6-R mount I should be good for maybe using the whole F10 on wee galaxies, etc.

Means I've got the DSLR lenses and 72ED for wider field, and the C8 and 200p for more narrow stuff. sound ok or have I made a booboo ?

I'm looking to go asi1600 route soon, and using astronomy tools filter size thing, it all looks good for 1.25 filters for all 3 scopes so feels like I'll be in a decent place for getting deeper into AP ?

stu

Oh yes.. learned from years cleaning it off my cars. All clean now.

I suppose on the plus side, it was at the end of the session!

I know others swear by deionised water, etc - but I prefer Calotherm Calocoat - been using for years for my camera lenses. Cleaned it up no probs.

stu

Ah - awoken by the tweet of the morning birds.

A successful night of imaging the trunk of a Pachyderm and the land of the free nebula.

Time to go outside and take some flats and move stuff inside.. ah the scope is pointing straight up from the end of the sessions last night.. er.. did that bird just take off from  being perched on it..

er... no.. you've not have you, you little....

yes.. a bird has sh4t in my telescope - right over the lens.

😫

OK, I've not used them - only read others experiences, which were very different from yours. Astroberry being very unstable and lacking in updates, etc. People giving up with AB/SM after struggling for ages.

I did look for a really in depth comparison between the three, but couldn't really find one. So, the above is simply my opinion based on those other posts people have written, and using the software myself (which is the same whether pc/mac/linux). And that was far far far from plug and play as far as my experience was concerned. 

Just a small note, that it is not exactly the same- the ASIAIR has a power management board with 12v outputs, all controllable by software. So if comparing like for like, you should account for the cost of buying/building such a board ?

And from a UI point of view though I'd argue there really are horses for courses. It may not matter to you, but the ASIAIR mobile app was key to my purchasing decision. I have no wish to try to use desktop apps over VNC on a mobile device. The fact you are happy to, and like it, kinda proves my point does it not ? you are a different type of user from me. You have different priorities. No right or wrong general choice, just whats best for that user type ?

Maybe I'll try AB and do a comparison - maybe useful for others. I have no affiliation from ZWO, so other than like it, I'd have no problem at all being impartial and coming out thinking AB is better. I'd like to try SM too, but I'm not paying $50 just to evaluate it. But my feeling looking at specs, UI, etc is that its just not the same thing at all as you say - but for me as a user, that means ASIAIR is better for me - mainly due to the mobile app.

atb

stu

just a note - that there is a asiair for sale now in for sale section.

I will come back to the type of user you are: IF you want every bell and whistle, and are prepared to spend the time learning everything there is no doubt stellarmate or the equiv self build will be better for you. IF you prefer something that is much simpler, and confines you to the ZWO ecosystem (mount and DSLRs accepted), then the ASIAIR is hands down the better solution.

Like anything else - it's horses for courses. I'm an IT consultant, and stuff like this is my bread and butter but for now at least - with only a few months imaging under my belt - I'm finding the ASIAIR PRO to be a godsend.

I bought an old laptop to try EKOS/PHD2, etc (Im a mac only household) and play with it, but for what I want right now as a beginner, I do not need or want to complexity of all those bits of bobs not properly talking to each other, etc. There may come a time when I outgrow the ASIAIR, but I think identifying the type of user you are now is key to making your life easy. If it's something you dread farting around with every night, that's not going to be enjoyable.

I do think ZWO are taking the p1ss a bit with the price of the PRO. If they'd kept it about 150 quid, that would be a fair price imho for what it is (pi4, case, power distro and licence), but it's a small market, and they know they have a uniquely good solution so at the end of the day you can't blame em for milking the price.

I sound like a ZWO influencer/shill here ! 

Another thing to remember is your expert astro imager is a cut above your standard user in terms of computer skills - they have had to master the most atrocious software ever written by humans* - things like pixinsight, sirl, etc - software which is the real world would not have gotten off the drawing board with those UX and docs. So after that,coping with linux on a pi, and installing loads of bits of seperate software and configuring it all is a walk in the park. Don't let that fool you into thinking it's easy.

stu

*frankly I'm unconvinced it was written by humans - my money is on some sort of alien who was given an PC and told to write it without access to any other example software at all.

what sort of experience does stellamate give the mobile client ? As far as I can tell it requires VNC, so its exposing a desktop client to a mobile device ?

I've not used it, and would be interested in peoples view if it's worth getting to play with (I've got the keyboard form pi4 for amiga emulation). Feels like it's not going to be anything like as user friendly as asiair pro. Much much more features of course, but if my understanding above is correct I wouldn't want to be fannying around with that every night - but sounds like a good option for experts or for the odd time you need something particularily tricky and outside the bounds of the exposed asiair stuff.

stu

2 hours ago, alacant said:

Nooo... I don't think so. All you need to do is keep taking more and more frames. If you could get say, 100, you'd find it much easier to process and see a lot more detail. 200, even better. 500... etc etc. You could also consider guiding if you're not already. That way, you could take frames of a longer duration.

Keep the camera attached to the telescope so you can spread the project over several nights 

HTH.

thanks - i meant my processing. Yeh, I was surprised to get that much with 20 mins. I wasted 100 mins on elephant trunk getting nowt much at all - almost no nebula at 45 seconds - clearly needs much longer, but with limited time I figured stick to 45 seconds and stack, and that way less frames ruined by satellites, etc. However after 100 mins of live stacking it was still just stars so switched targets.

Saturday night looking good, so will possibly try again, though I also want to have a go at Jupiter and that needs me to drive somewhere else.

But yeh, next time I SHOULD stick to more of the same.. and will try.. but I do fancy trying my narrowband filters just for the hell of it.

1 hour ago, barbulo said:

I said the same words once in this forum and somebody asked in return: Why the ASI1600 if you have its evolution available (ASI294MM Pro)? I’m still thinking about that. But for the mid/long term. 
Regarding the Astroberry, I’d stick to it and use your ASI120 with a find/guide-scope to PA. 

ooo. I dunno there are so many, I was just going with what folk were recommending. and it comes in  package with filiters and filter wheel with a decent discount. I'm a numpty - it's not a choice I've made. is that the general view ? are 1.25in sensors still enough with the slightly larger sensor ?

thanks. My plan was to setup as normal anyway - i.e already have bahtinov focused on a bright star, etc. and once plate solved and PAed, asiair will take me to jupiter and track it.

I'll then setup guiding too.

So at that point I can experiment with different capture techniques. I'll post my results.

thanks again

stu