globular

I found the following report by Dave Knisely very useful in learning what type of filter to try on which objects.  And it helped me decide which one to get first to test the waters.
https://www.prairieastronomyclub.org/filter-performance-comparisons-for-some-common-nebulae/

I would add that you really need good dark skies to observe these types of objects - and under these conditions the filters really help. 
The scores of 5 in the above list really are that good and the resulting "wow"s I've had with them have made my purchase of good quality versions of the filters worth every penny.   
If you expect a filter to compensate for not having dark skies then I think you will be disappointed.

It's pushing the budget a bit, but I'd strongly consider the Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro Outfit for £539 from FLO.

And then separately, so not constrained to go brand new, get a used AZ5 or similar to mount it.

I'm not a refractor expert, so those that are please chime in if I'm wrong, but I suspect the views though this will be much better than the non-ED glass 102, even with it smaller aperture.

I nice quality refractor will give you something quite different to your dobs. And there are many threads on here of those who love their small aperture refractors in our generally poor UK skies.  Good conditions - get the dob(s) out.  Not so good - pull out the grab and go refractor.

6 minutes ago, blinky said:

I agree with that, but this was defiantly more focussed around the 'in theory' rather than what we actually would experience

Yes, a carefully controlled experiment with no ambient light, painted surfaces, real world clutter, etc, just boils down to the differences of reflectivity and scatter of the curtain material verses the window glass.

It's modelling the 'more than you'd have thought' impacts of the real world clutter that makes it more interesting. 

It's never genuinely pitch black outside.

You're comparing;

* the reflectivity of the closed curtains 

with

* the reflectivity of the glass in the windows
* the amount of ambient light passing from outside through the window into the room
* the reflectivity of the, now exposed, window sill - which is often painted white 

I suspect the sum of the different 'open curtain' effects are about the same as the 'close curtain' - which is why we don't notice any material difference.

Fantastic! Thanks for posting.

I now want a smorgasbord of delights in my life too.

The hole in your OTA is perfect for using 2" diagonals and eyepieces.  They won't vignette.

The thread on the back of your OTA is a 2" SCT thread.
You screw off your 1.25" visual back and replace it with a 2" version.

Something basic like this...
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-2-visual-back-eyepiece-holder-for-sct-telescopes.html

Or something fantastic like this...
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-click-lock-2-for-celestron-meade-sct.html 

20 minutes ago, Mognet said:

I assume it's actually there as an indication of acclimatisation

Good thinking. 

Saw this on another thread earlier today...

What's the thermometer in the focuser adding?

15 minutes ago, cajen2 said:

my new Delos 8mm, fine EP though it is, is much more difficult to get eye position on than my Morpheus range.

As it's a new EP to you, are you aware the housing moves up and down so you can find the right eye placement? 
They can be locked in place once you find your best position.  Maybe yours are locked in the wrong spot?

Something like this...

Infrared light is separated out and sent down the fibre optic cables to other instruments for analysis.  Visible light passes through as normal and is used for alignment and tracking.

That would be nice... but there isn't really enough back focus for one that keeps things optimal, sadly.

[Well, the new Primaluce Lab ESATTO 2" LP Low Profile Robotic Microfocuser might do the trick - but not at £800 !!]
https://www.365astronomy.com/primaluce-lab-esatto-2-lp-low-profile-robotic-microfocuser

1 minute ago, Ags said:

the elaborate steps you take to maintain the critical distance between the mirrors seems an argument against the SCT. This issue does not affect the CC8 (mirrors don't move) or the Mewlons (being a Dall-Kirkham design).

Agreed.  Although it's only elaborate once - to parfocalised everything.  Once that's done you just get on and use it without thinking about it.

Sorry David - I read that as the diopter adjustment but you're right it's not clear.  It's definitely opposite directions to each other on my Maxbright II - but I don't have the Mark V to know for sure about those.
I'll go and sit in the corner and keep quiet.

18 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Sparkle in star clusters is the realm of refractors, not SCTs

My SCT provides me with lots of sparkle in star clusters.
It's an 8" Edge HD and I use it at fl 2125 (by ensuring back focus is 133mm). Deviating only marginally from that and things soften - but parfocalising all my EPs makes keeping everything sharp no problem. And that includes with binoviewers too.
I suspect most SCT users don't consider their back focus position and regularly push or pull their primary mirror far too far from it's optimal position - hence softening their views and leading to the bad reputation SCTs have.

Each side rotates in the opposite direction to each other.

(Unless they are 2nd hand and a previous owner replaced it with the wrong hand version. Unlikely though)

Q&A on baader website:

Am I right that FLO aren't attending? 
Does anyone know if any other Askar dealers are going to be there? 
The 140 and 185 APO's should be kicking around by this event and I'd love to have a gander at them.

Just now, John said:

😅🤐

Yes, my 'someone' was you John, haha.

13 minutes ago, Mr Spock said:

I go 8, 7, 5, 4...

That looks like a countdown until someone suggests a SVBony 3-8 zoom.

14 minutes ago, SwiMatt said:

go straight for the 4" apo that would make the Mak redundant 

Your signature says you have an AZ5 mount. If you're going to be tempted with the Askar 103 (and I wouldn't blame you!) then you'll have to get a new mount too. (See paulastro's threads on his experience with his Askar).

Excellent. Thanks for sharing.

17 minutes ago, John said:

I enjoyed doing these so I might do some more, if the clear nights continue 🙂

And I do think the process helps you to see more as well 👍

My thinking too.

ES 92/12 + 2x Powermate 

Aren't all the domes fantastic!

19 hours ago, John said:

Seems to me that there is a niche for a nicely machined adapter to allow a nice but relatively affordable focuser such as the Baader Diamond Steeltrack to be fitted to the Tak FC tubes 🤔

Is the Tak thread M72 female? And the Steeltrack M68 male?

This adapter has an M72 male and M68 female so wouldn't it marry them up?.....
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader_tak_m72_adapter_2558230.html

Maybe I've got the genders wrong? 🤔

2 hours ago, Highburymark said:

That’s the orientation I’m using with the MBII and 1.7x for best views, but my GPC is quite old - maybe Baader flipped the lenses for newer GPCs?

Bader make two versions of the 1.7x GPC, one facing the binoviewer and one facing away.  Which ever one you have you can turn it into the other one by removing, flipping and reinserting the lens within the housing. 

In other words the key is not whether you put it in the bino or the diagonal, but whether the lens is orientated correctly within the housing for your choice of bino or diagonal placement.

First thing to check is that you have the GPC correctly oriented.  The convex face of the GPC should point towards the object / away from the binoviewer.  The GPC should help correct colour fringing - but if positioned incorrectly it can make it worse.