BS269

5 minutes ago, johninderby said:

Will have to get one of the APM eyepieces, but later on. Two new scopes in about a month have blown the astro budget for a while. 🙄

My new Concenter  Visus collimator arrived before 8:00 this morning. 👍🏻

APM website wanted €45 for delivery... nah. do you know if astrograph.net is a trustworthy site?

very nice! What scopes did you get? That sounds like a fancy collimator!!

6 hours ago, johninderby said:

I ordered something from them earlier this week and arriving tomorrow. 🙏🏼

Not an eyepiece though. 🙂

I was looking for a wide field EP and was about to go for ES 20mm 100°. Then all of a sudden I heard about the APM being cheaper and better 🤔 gave it a research and seems to be the common opinion!

5 minutes ago, johninderby said:

This is the correct link.

https://www.apm-telescopes.de/en/optical-accessories/eyepieces/more-74-ultra-wide-angle/apm-lunt-eyepieces/apm-hdc-xwa-20-mm-100-eyepiece.html

Think the link you have is one of those shopping sites that links to the product.

Thanks John, different web link for sure but takes me to exactly the same page. Least I know it’s safe though. Cheers!

Going to buy the APM 20mm 100° EP, seen it’s being sold on an APM named website but looks a bit weird to me. 

could anyone confirm this is their official website, and is safe to purchase from? 
 

http://apm-telescopes-englisch.shopgate.com/item/3133363731
 

I can get the eyepiece from teleskop express, but it’s more expensive for delivery.

cheers!

Wow thank you everyone for the advice! Not had much success since but I will continue to look out for opportunities.. sadly the weather has been so bad for me the last few weeks I’ve not even been able to get my scope out and enjoy the hobby either. Autumn weather is terrible where I live  

45 minutes ago, DirkSteele said:

A tricky one for sure.  Just on the astronomy journalism thing, I do not think a qualification in journalism is a necessity.  In fact I read so much inaccurate nonsense from "science" journalists who don't have a qualification in the relevant subject, that I would argue at least, that the background in science is what should be valued. If you are able to source some work in this space, be aware that almost certainly will be freelance, paid per article, and the compensation is not high.  I have written some equipment reviews for Astronomy Now and for 2,000 words and 4-6 photos, it might be £300-350 in pay.  I write because I enjoy it, not because of the money.

 

As for other jobs, I know someone who did get a job at the Royal Observatory Greenwich holding a BSc in Physics + Astronomy, as a public engagement astronomer so a higher degree is not always needed.  I am not sure how many other venues around the country may also have such positions.

I have read that astronomy journalism is a bit of a dying breed with reducing success. Not sure why that is the case. I thought it to be quite a dream job if the money was there but doesn’t seem to be the case. 

I will take a look at public engagement astronomers to see if anything is available. I do live quite close to Jodrell Bank so something there might be possible. I’ve also thought about outreach but I thought that was more voluntary work?

37 minutes ago, Peter Drew said:

Hello Ben.

I hate to sound negative, but having been in the astronomical business I have become aware that it's almost impossible to jump into any astronomy related jobs, they all seem to require either very high academic qualifications or significant experience or even both.  Those with good PhD's find it hard enough to break into the subject professionally and those that are fortunate enough to do so will tell you that it's not all swanning about in famous observatories using exotic equipment.  More often, still stuck in the UK "number crunching" on fairly narrow subject data.

I would give more thought to other scientific orientated occupations that may have better openings, ones that may give you more time to indulge your current astronomical interest whilst gaining experience for the future.  Best of luck with whatever you do.    😀

 

 

Don’t worry you haven’t disappointed, as it was what I was expecting! From the searching I’ve done there really are very few opportunities for someone with just a BSc in this field. I figured I would give this website a shot as you never know... 

I will have a think about what kind of jobs could offer what you suggested. Thanks very much!

The only American telescope store I know of is highpoint scientific, who prices a skywatcher 8” dob at $445. Based on this price I would say you could find a used one for around $300 on the cloudy nights classifieds forum, link here - 

https://www.cloudynights.com/classifieds
 

you may have to be patient and look regularly, but buying second hand from the stargazing community is generally a safe bet, as they take good care of their equipment.
 

If this is your first time buying something to view the night sky through, then a good pair of binoculars are highly recommended for starting out. traversing the sea of stars is difficult for the inexperienced, using binoculars gives you the widest field of view to learn where everything is. Not to mention the breathtaking view of an innumerable amount of stars that you’ll see through the view.

if you are insistent on a telescope, then an 8” dob is a great choice that will serve you for life. Save up as much as you can, get one 2nd hand and spend the rest on some better eyepieces and accessories!

Ben

I was wondering what kind of jobs there were in the astronomy world, that didn’t require a PhD..

I’m a newly graduated student in physics with space science, who got their first telescope a few months back and since started to actively involve myself in the stargazing hobby and community, and I’ve loved every minute of it! However I’m now at the daunting position of being thrown out into the world of work, and I’m hoping I can find something that involves this amazing subject.

My problem is most jobs that utilise my degree require a higher level of qualification; masters, PhD etc.. something that I am not yet prepared to do. So I’m turning to you good people who have been in this community far longer than I, for any possible ideas. 

The one that springs to my mind first is a telescope store, though I fear I don’t have enough knowledge or experience of telescope equipment to be a sales advisor in such a shop (though I am a fast learner!). The second idea, which I’d love to do, would be astronomy journalism, but again I imagine a journalism qualification is required. 

Are there any other astronomy related jobs out there that people can think of, that might be possible for me to apply for? 

Many thanks! 
Ben

This is from my home, CO says it’s 20.47 so I’m on the border of bortle 4. The darker skies close by isn’t enough to justify travelling too as I live in the Peak District which is surrounded by cities! Would light pollution filters be worth it with this sky quality? What does the ratio indicate as well?

3 hours ago, Louis D said:

And, the smaller binoviewers have a shorter optical path due to using smaller prisms.  Thus, there will be less vignetting if you shorten your truss poles to reach focus.

If you go the route of the barlow to reach focus, I use the optical nosepiece from a 90s vintage Meade 140 2x barlow to good effect.  It works out to a 3x boost.  At that focal ratio, the 23mm Vite/Svbony aspheric 62 degree eyepieces work very well in them for maximum field viewing.

I want to go down both routes really... it will give me a good range of magnitudes with a minimum of 75x for the stock EPs if I shorten the tubes. If I use my 2.25x Barlow and don’t shorten them I’m guessing it will give a 3.5-4x effect, which then Takes me to 260-300x mag. Or I could do a mix of both shortening and use the 1.6x Barlow, which (assuming it gives a 2.5x effect) takes me to 180x mag. And that’s just with one eyepiece pair! Obviously it isn’t going to be that easy sadly, as I don’t know how badly collimation will be affected.

i also own a baader Hyperion zoom mk III which could tempt me into buying another, though 2 of these plus a binoviewer could really strain my focuser. The mk IV was better designed for binoviewers but it is what it is.

i really wish I could just go straight for something like the binotron I’m that confident I’ll love them, but as I’m meant to be saving for travelling next year and not doing a very good job at it (because of this bloody hobby), I can’t really afford spending triple the price 😞

3 hours ago, Paz said:

With regard to the focal ratio and if particular eyepieces will handle it, the focal ratio hitting the eyepiece will depend in of you are using a Barlow or glass path corrector. If say you have to use a 2x Barlow to reach focus then an f5 light cone from the objective becomes f10 coming out of the Barlow and would be less demanding on eyepieces. 

I’m more worried about not using a Barlow actually, as I would expect to not need one if I collapse the dob by 4 inches or so, hence keeping it at f4.9

i will use Barlows too; I already own a 2.25x so having a 1.6x would be a nice add on which should give me a few different magnifications!

21 hours ago, Mick H said:

BS269, Just trying to help and found another bit of info:

There are two types of vignetting to

consider -- vignetting at the center of

the field, and vignetting at the edge of

the field. For planetary work you only

care about the field center, but for other

stuff you care about both.

 

Vignetting at the field center does not

depend on the eyepiece focal length / field

size. It only depends on the scopes F ratio

and the size of the prisms. Most of the binoviewers

add about 5 inches to the optical path. So a

unit with say one inch prisms should be OK

with focal ratio 5" / 1" = F5 or slower.

For one of the binoviewers with small

prisms its 5" / (1/2") = F10 or slower.

 

Vignetting at the field edge is more complex.

It depends on the scope light cone, the size of

prisms in the binoviewer, and the size of the

eyepiece field stop. If the binoviewer is one of the

microscope derived units with 12mm prisms, and

you use an eyepiece with a 27mm field stop,

the field edges are going to be completely

vignetted (dark) no matter what the

scopes focal ratio is. Fast scopes will probably

have some vignetting at the field edge, even

with large prisms -- maybe 50% light loss at the

edge -- detectable but not terrible.

Thank you very much! I think I may end up going for the smaller TS or WO now, as it’s just to get me started into binoviewing to see if I enjoy it. If I do I will end up upgrading to a much better one at some point I’m sure. I’m quite worried about the eyepieces though now. The WO bundle is a great price but I’m worried I’d buy it and the EPs that come with it won’t handle the fast focal ratio of my scope. If they wouldn’t, I would probably go for the TS one and buy EPs separately.

2 hours ago, Louis D said:

You keep all of your aperture but experience vignetting in the outer field by shortening your truss poles.

Is there a way of calculating how much vignetting there will be?

3 hours ago, Mick H said:

Hi, I cannot help with your question but this might help:

https://agenaastro.com/articles/guides/eyepieces-binoviewers/choosing-astronomy-eyepieces-for-binoviewers.html

I have the WO binoviewer, but wished I had gone for the Baader MaxBright's to pair up with the Baader T2 diagonal which would make shortening the light path easier like in the pic below.

 

I read this article yesterday, was a very interesting read but I’m not sure it has the info I need sadly. Did give me a lot of other knowledge though! This TS binoviewer I’m looking at says it has a T2 connection also! 

I’m thinking of buying a binoviewer to go with my 12” skywatcher flex tube dob (fl 1500mm). I know This combination would go great for planetary and lunar with the use of a Barlow to bring it to focus, but I would really like to try and utilise it for some DSO. Because of this I would preferably want one with a clear aperture of 27-30mm, allowing me to use the widest field 1.25” eyepieces.

i found this large prism binoviewer for a good price, which is important because I can’t afford the top end right now - https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p11593_TS-Optics-1-25--Wide-field-Binoviewer-with-30-mm-Prisms-for-Telescopes.html

Due to the design of the skywatcher flex tube I can shorten the OTA which should allow me to reach focus, which for this binoviewer would be 4-5”. But obviously with shortening the tube I lose some of the aperture, I just don’t know how much. Is there anyway to calculate how much I would lose? If it’s only 1-2” I would be happy going ahead with it, but any more and I feel like I’m losing too much light gathering capacity, given views through a bino are dimmer due to the light splitting also.

could anyone help with my aperture theoretical question? As it would be my first binoviewer purchase, if this wide field idea isn’t feasible I would rather pay low end like the WO and just use it for lunar/planetary purposes.
 

cheers!

13 hours ago, Louis D said:

I would think you would only see the specs when lunar or solar viewing.

I agree, but they are quite big and one is fairly central so could affect nebula views. It’s more just annoying that it’s there when I’ve barely used it and I store it away properly. I bought it second hand but there wasn’t these specs at the time of purchase.

On 16/08/2020 at 19:34, jock1958 said:

Try SCTelescopes in Tonbridge run by a guy called Steve Collingwood. I know he services Telescopes not sure about eyepieces though?

I’ll give it a search, cheers!

13 hours ago, Don Pensack said:

This is a very common issue with Baader Zooms.

Slam the eyepiece into your other hand several times to see if you can dislodge the specks.

Otherwise, look at the sky through the eyepiece.

Can you see the specks?  No?  Then run the zoom from one end to the other.  See the specks?

No--don't worry about it--they won't have any visual effect.  Yes--then you either need to dismantle the eyepiece and blow them away or have someone else do it for you.

Make sure the outside lens surfaces are clean before doing the sky test.

My 30mm APM has about a have dozen tiny specks inside that are visible in a very bright flashlight, but not visible otherwise.

I used the eyepiece a year before I thought to check it, and they cannot be seen.  They have no visual effect at all.

It's no different than a few specks of dust on a lens or mirror.

I’ll keep trying knocking them out of place, but I’m worried about doing it too much. The reason I knew they were there was by looking through the eyepiece in daylight, and they’re visible through quite a lot of the range, with it being sharpest about 18mm. I’ve seen multiple people saying to not dismantle it myself and I’d be worried about causing more bad then good, which is why I wanted to send it off to someone preferably. Do you know any companies that might do this sort of thing?

My baader Hyperion zoom mk iii has 3 large specs of dust on the inside of the lens, which is quite frustrating given I pack it away properly after every use.. I don’t want to take the thing apart and previous posts on this are either pretty old or inconclusive. 
 

surely there must be a proper service for something like this? As I bought second hand a while ago I can’t just return it. Giving it a light bang on the table hasn’t been successful so far and I’m worried about doing it too much. Hoping large telescope stores like RVO provide a service?

cheers!

On 05/08/2020 at 21:02, Alfian said:

You've been busy! The 12" will be quite something. Rifling just means that looking down the "barrel" of the pedestal tube it will appear as if it has large guage spiral screw down it's length. Rifling spins the bullet/shell as it leaves the barrel which I think increases velocity and accuracy tho' others will probably be able to give a better answer on that. Like I say it might be all nonsense anyway! It might be just a fanciful extension of the "built like a tank" idea.

Ahh okay, I have looked down the pedestal tube before when cleaning and I don’t recall seeing anything like that sadly. Maybe they existed on the very first scopes being made? 
 

I’ve been trying the dobsonian out the last couple nights, having some new kit problems but I’m getting there.. got the tracking working properly for the first time last night which was very exciting! But my Cheshire collimator doesn’t give me a full view of the secondary, so I’m pretty sure my collimation is a bit off as my view of Jupiter and a couple DSO’s had no detail. so I need to order a collimation cap! Think my problem is that I don’t know how much detail I should be able to see.

Ahh okay, thank you for the help! Can’t wait to get into it!

I thought the dual Astro/daylight mod meant you didn’t have to use a custom white balance for daytime photography? I read the description on cheapastrophotography and that is what I gathered from it?

if not, then is there any difference between that and the IR filter removal mod? As you can do daytime photography with a custom white balance I believe. 
 

regardless, I think your pictures are amazing!! Given me much hope and excitement with this camera!!

1 hour ago, feverdreamer1 said:

Im guessing you dont own a tracker. You should first get a hold of shooting milky way/wide field before starting telephoto and nebulae/gaalxy shooting. It helps a lot to have some previous AP experience even if it is wide field before entering the telephoto area. If you're indeed going to get a tracker (I read that you're between the sw and the ioptron) I reccomend you get the sky watcher star adventurer, it's cheaper, and if you get the pro pack it comes with a counterweight kit as well as the wedge, only downside is that it's a bit bulkier than the iOptron, but its price is much more reasonable.

 

You're gonna love this hobby.

 

Clear skies and hope this helped!

No I don’t have a tracker yet.. I think I will go with the star adventurer one, and what you suggest is what I had in mind really. I’m going to give the kit lens a shot but I’ve heard they can give soft images. If I find that is the case then the plan was to get a Rokinon 14mm and canon 50mm for Milky Way and constellation-like shots. I may not need a tracker for this but I know it would help a lot. When I’m ready to upgrade, instead of getting a longer fl camera lens I was instead going to get something like the WO space cat or 60mm apo, so it’s small enough to still fit on the star adventurer. I really like the look of the space cat, seen some incredible images with it. And I’m pretty sure that would keep me occupied for some time! 

Wow been away for a bit I wasn’t expecting this many replies! Thanks to all the kind words, it’s collimated and ready to use, but I also ended up seeing a great deal for a skywatcher 12” collapsible GoTo dob + extras on the weekend that wasn’t too far away from me. It’s exactly what I wanted so ended up buying it. As my Astro-shed isn’t up yet the dob has taken priority and the TAL is stored away for the time being. Hopefully in a couple weeks I can give some proper viewing experience with it.

dave - I’m not going to do any more modding for now, as you said it will now be a case of using and modding if I see fit along the way. I don’t really want to take too much of it’s vintage look away tho. The flocking looks great however! What is your eyepiece rack btw? It looks like a polar scope In a focuser 😂

mark - the mirror was in quite a grim state.. I’m surprised it cleaned as well as it did to be honest. There is some obvious wear though that can’t be seen in the picture. 

Alfian - I’m really excited to use it now it’s fully collimated. I believe my pinched optics were down to the locking ring in the primary mirror, which I really tightened down. It’s much looser now but still doesn’t allow the mirror to move, and whilst it was disassembled I added a centre spot, which made the collimation process far easier. My spider veins are quite awkward though. They are slightly bent and the screw caps were very stiff, which made it quite difficult to reassemble them and to centre the secondary mirror. I am quite reluctant to take them out again now really. I also couldn’t tell you about the tank gun barrels, as I don’t know what the pedistal tube is or what rifling looks like 😂 if you could describe where to look I’ll be happy to check though.