Simon Pepper

I use WBPP all the time and have never had this. This could be due to your flats if not property exposed, but also I am seeing 300s subs here did you have a filter? Where was the moon and age that could be to blame here

I saw a tutorial on this and as people have mentioned it also does not have the halos. Question when you add the stars back do the halos come back? I ask because I actually use  starnett to clone stamp out this horrible halos. 
 

can it be used as a halo xterminator as well?

This is the XISF with just a nuke stretch applied no other work done to it. Perhaps I am being a pixel peeper...

Hi all

I took my first ever mono image last night and I don't think its come out that bad. However the stars are not pin point I seem to have some slight coma on the left its coma to left and on the right its coma to right. They also all seem to have a slight upward/downward stretch. Is this a back focus issue? ZWO state it should be 56mm I have everything in the imaging train but when I measure it I think its 54mm. See some closeups below but I have also attached the xisf from PI. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. 

NGC7000.xisf

Hi all 

just curious when it comes to buying on ABS as the buyer is there any safety nets for us? Never used it before just don’t want to part with a large sum of money by bank transfer if you know what I mean. Any advice would be appreciated 

thanks 

1 hour ago, geeklee said:

Typically for spacing on this lens, you will need to account for the filter if it's between lens and camera - usually add 1/3 the thickness of the filter like you would on a scope.  I have found these to be very good:

M42
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t2-fine-adjustment-rings-aluminium.html

M48
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/Baader_M48_adjustment_rings.html

You will also have got thin spacers with your ASI camera - one of these might just be thin enough, I can't remember.  Whether you'll still get an iffy corner, I'm not sure  

If you want to break away from that adapter, you could get the Canon Samyang M48 adapter that FLO sell, use your filter drawer and make the rest up with what you have and additional spacers.

Cheers Lee I’ll try the latter m48 adapter see if that one works 👌

I am using a t2 canon adapter with a 2 inch filter inside here is a picture. If I take the filter out I don’t have a bad corner… 

Me again! So I tested out the Sammy the other day with all manor of different spacings, apertures, etc and deduced that the issue is the filter or at least filter holder.  So I need some links please or suggestions what I need. This is what I have or at least the older model and thats my issue. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-adjustable-eos-lens-to-t2-adapter-for-all-asi-cameras.html . So what I need is some other connection to the lens and my ZWO 294, but also somewhere to house a 2" mounted filter. I have the ZWO filter draw, but no obvious connection back to the lens. Has anyone got a recommendations please or pictures of their setup not using the above adapter but using a mounted filter without a filter wheel? 

On a positive note the lens is fine I tested it without the filter and stars were pinpoint in all corners

Thanks

I have that adapter for Canon but I have issues in the corners. I have added some spacers so will check it out next clear night I think I may need to account for the filter so its going to be trial and error 

Hi Powerlord I am using a ZWO OSC with a 2" mounted l extreme so I need the option of a filter holder or drawer. My issue is this tilt that I am facing I am having to throw nights away or use starless versions as its hurting me  I am wondering if I need to account for the filter and by adding 2mm spacer it may fix it. Although not sure how I do that or what spacer I need? Thanks

Edit I do actually have a ZWO filter drawer as well so perhaps this adapter will work  just need to do some measurements. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html

On 09/09/2021 at 15:37, Space Oddities said:

Honestly I think all Samyang 135's have one ugly corner somehow... But I think most bayonet adapters don't help. At least that was the case with my copy. When I replaced the Canon mount of my lens by a M48 mount (with this excellent adapter), I believe that my bad corner improved. It's also a much easier adaptation to astro cameras!

Hi Pierre

Can you still use a filter with this config? 

Thanks

15 minutes ago, callisto said:

Thought you were easing up on your spending Simon 🤣

Don’t tell my wife Mark 😂

Oh a double whammy look what Mr Postman bought today new optics, but it’s all about that SGL mug! Oh and unbelievably I have clear skies tonight the stars have aligned! 

Didn’t know WO were making one to be fair I will be sure to have a google and check it out! 

46 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:

I finally managed to get first light with Samyang 135mm connected to my ASI294MC Pro last night.

There was a bit of faffing about obtaining focus with the lens & the new 32mm guide scope (still not happy with the guide scope focus but it worked). So I went for the Sadr Region for comparison with an image I took back in August with my modded EOS 1300D and Sadr had already past the meridian when I started.

The ASI294MC was at -15°C, gain 120, offset 8 and fitted with L-eXtreme filter. Lens at f2.8 and I managed 1h 50m of 90s subs with the rig fixed to my HEQ5. Stacked in DSS with only darks (haven't take the flats or dark flats yet) and processed in PI.

I may have reduced the stars a little too much in this one, so I may have another go at it later, and there's a little bit of tilt noticeable in the stars on the left hand side if you're pixel-peeking.

So here's the image from last night and the DSLR version below (which was 51 minutes at ISO400).

 

 

The difference is amazing really you can see artefacts from vignette where you have not taken flats but overall great shot! I am trying to see the tilt you mention but not able to get in close enough to see it... Annoying really as I posted an image a few weeks back where it was apparent and that was at f3.5. Not sure if I should try adding any spacers as it was only apparent on one side of the image could be trial and error or may just have to live with it. 

Agree with Powerlord great widefield shot there will have to try that on out 👌

5 hours ago, Simon Pepper said:

@MartinB really glad to have made the top three thanks. On a separate note the SGL imaging challenge 7 SNRs and PNs link does not work are you aware of that? Thanks 

You can ignore this I have found the link in the competition tab it’s that the shortcut image does not link thanks 

@MartinB really glad to have made the top three thanks. On a separate note the SGL imaging challenge 7 SNRs and PNs link does not work are you aware of that? Thanks 

2 hours ago, Space Oddities said:

Honestly I think all Samyang 135's have one ugly corner somehow... But I think most bayonet adapters don't help. At least that was the case with my copy. When I replaced the Canon mount of my lens by a M48 mount (with this excellent adapter), I believe that my bad corner improved. It's also a much easier adaptation to astro cameras!

Ok I will check it out! Thanks 

26 minutes ago, Space Oddities said:

What kind of adapter are you using? Canon/Nikon to T2? Do you have a picture of your setup maybe?

Hi Pierre see below. I believe its the older version of this as it has slightly different disconnecting button. I may just have a dud 135 lens lol I know the quality control is not always top notch...

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-adjustable-eos-lens-to-t2-adapter-for-all-asi-cameras.html

Hi Guys 

Wondering if someone can assist here. I have noted that my starts are not quite pin point when zooming in around the edges  it seems worse in one corner of an image, but this one its top left. If looking bottom left they streak away bottom left as you come up to middle left they streak middle left and so on. I have seen this issue elsewhere but I don't actually know what it is whether its tilt, backspacing or some other issue.... I am new to the 135 so seeing here if anyone has had similar and been able to correct it? This was shot at f3.5 (stopped it down to see if it helped think it did ever so slightly but still apparent) 300s.

I have attached the raw fit as well.

Top left

Bottom left

Top right

Bottom right

Thank

Light_IC1396_300.0s_Bin1_0012.fit

2 minutes ago, Mike73 said:

North Cornwall for the night. Last time I was here (about 6 years ago) I was observing, now it’s imaging. My old SQM readings for this place was around 21.8 mag. 

Where is that this looks amazing? Can you just rock up and camp? Thanks

10 hours ago, MartinB said:

This challenge is now closed.  It has proved very popular with some outstanding images.  Results should be announced within the next couple of weeks

Thanks for putting this one together Martin was a lot of fun and great idea 👏

Not the bestest composition here with the AAP guiding calibration screen as the backdrop 😂 however was still pretty stoked to screen grab this one before the 2s loop on the camera was up and it refreshed away.  I thought it was cool and worth a share certainly different 👍


 

Thanks 

16 minutes ago, Adam1234 said:

Loving the images taken with this lens and the mounting solutions. I don't have the 135mm lens but I have the Samyang 14mm that I'm hoping to use with the ASI120MC - does anyone know of any ring mountings that would fit the 14mm? 

Hi Adam,

the 135 is slightly thicker and bigger all round to the 14mm. For the 135 I am using the redcat ring but another user from SGL noted a sigma ring that also works but will need a bit of felt or Velcro added as it is about 1mm to big. That was this: 71mm Tripod Collar Mount Ring 1/4" for SIGMA APO 70-200mm F2.8 II EX DG MACRO HSM Lens https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DVKZBXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9GWY361RF8KKMS66Y9PD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have just checked that ring on the 14mm and it fits snug over the aperture ring but obviously you will want it over the body and before the focus ring. See picture for guidance if I was a betting man I would say you probably want somewhere in the region of 69mm but I reckon the above options you could make work with a bit of diy tape, felt or Velcro.