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Posts posted by Kitsunegari
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stay away from the solarmax3 , its junk.
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a new plage area is rotating into view, captured this morning
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these are fantastic, great session
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Try one of these.
455.4
553.54
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Looks like you need to move your optics for the UV end of the spectrum, if you cannot get a clear image at 393nm you will have a heck of a time getting clarity out of 370nm. There is a quite a bit of blur it appears compared to the h-alpha, you may need to adjust your focal point on the slit. (or your primary telescope)
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Like a regular geyser, the umbra of 2833 is pulsating at specific intervals.
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Brought the attention of this over to astrobin forum and got some interesting replies.
(Thanks HbAstro)
OEM
1.7mm airgap
2.35mm airgap.
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Okay, here is a 37 frame test on the same optics ; without checking collimation on the .1mm gap.
I see no difference between the two. IDentical processing, identical exposure settings.
OEM .1mm airgap
2mm airgaip.
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16 minutes ago, Victor Boesen said:
Not sure about others, but to me it seems like the 2mm spacing looks sharper Especially around the sunspot and on the bright part of the disk.
It may need collimation, i forgot to check it on the oem setting because i had taken the objective off to clean it. I didnt mark the screw holes so it was rotated away from its original position.
I do agree it looks sharper but i collimated the second one
I am recollimating right now on the .1mm for a second test. Also i have recorded the floater prom with a longer timelapse using both settings to make sure it wasnt just a seeing issue.
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There is some speculation over at cloudynights that increasing the airgap of your objective lens can increase corrective imaging of violet light which is usually never corrected on any telescope.
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/770832-a-volks-scope-analysis/
I tried this on my explore scientific firstlight 127x1200 and find the results to be almost identical.
The oem airgap is .1mm as shipped from ES.
I will check collimation and do a second test, because i forgot to do this on this test. Every time the objective comes off you must recollimate because the screw holes dont always line up exactly.
There is a 4 minute difference between these two images.
OEM airgap. (7 frames)
2mm airgap (9 frames)
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what program are you capturing with; i suggest fire capture. enabling 16bit mode will allow best capture of both prom and disc features simultaneously depending on your camera, tutorials only go so far because everyone has different equipment.
The easiest way is to just set your gamma up WHILE Capturing till you see the proms on screen with disk features. Then adjust levels after you stack the video.
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me = jealous!
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Not much happening until the clouds came in and decided I was not allowed to image anymore.
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I have captured thousands of minutes worth of solar footage and i still to this day have not randomly caught the ISS
Ironically i see it all the time flying over my house, so i know its around.
Great capture
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very nice
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looks like your pst mod is working great, but may i ask why you are using a 2x glasspath if the scope is f10?
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1 hour ago, GreatAttractor said:
Great video indeed!
It seems to be the case. It's happening mostly in front of the nose and engine nacelles, not so much at the leading edges of the wings (which by design let the air go around them).
I found some plots of air's index of refraction depending on pressure here. As you can see, the change is a very small fraction, BUT apparently when imaging a tiny FOV, like we do with the Sun, it's sufficient.
check this one out,
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1 hour ago, TakMan said:
FlightRadar24 should be able to give you such flight details....
Pretty neat, found it. https://fr24.com/2021-06-04/22:43/12x/RPA3565/27f0f776
thanks for that!
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do you see the ghostly shaped figure in this?
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Not really, but just look at what this jet does captured at 500 frames per second.
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23.06.2021 Stop laughing at the back!
in Imaging - Solar
Posted · Edited by Kitsunegari
youtube is not the greatest tool to use.
I would suggest imageJ software https://imagej.nih.gov/ij/download.html
, or http://gifmaker.me to construct a .gif file and then upload it directly to flickr and paste the flickr link.