Dan13

1 minute ago, rl said:

Difficult to say from a screenshot, but that looks like over-exposure to me. You might have some focussing isssues as well. 

Is the image a crop or the whole frame? What camera and exposure time were you using? What is the target? Were you using any filters?

An ED scope with FPL53 is unlikely to have objectionable chromatic aberration unless there is something seriously wrong with it. 

Some doublets do show minor CA occasionally referred to as blue bloat..but that looks a bit excessive! 

Hi, 

1 minute ago, rl said:

You might have some focussing isssues as well

i focus with a B mask as dont have an auto focusser , everything seems ok but thats just to me so could be still out?

1 minute ago, rl said:

2 minutes ago, rl said:

Is the image a crop or the whole frame? What camera and exposure time were you using? What is the target? Were you using any filters?

this is zoomed in on a full image of the cygnus wall this pic here , exposure time was 240 secs (im actually thinking of dropping it a little) cam is an asi 294mc pro @ -10, filter was an optolong L-enhance or L-pro ill have to check

 

Hi, ive noticed since ive had my new refractor (starwave 80ED-R FPL53) ive been getting the stars below,especially the bigger brighter ones.

On the whole the scope is really nice and im getting imo some good images, but this is starting to concern me a little and also effecting processes like star net ++ for starless images as the bright ones wont completely be removed.

so is this Chromatic aberration or something else i need to look at ?

many thanks

Dan

2 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

A very nice well considered image 👍🏼

thank you,  much appreciated 

2 hours ago, MarkAR said:

Lovely image, well done.

Thank you Mark, appreciate it 

The Cygnus wall, part of the north American nebula.

5 hours total intergration time

Altair astro starwave 80ED-R
Altair astro 50mm guide scope
Altair 0.8x V3 flattener

Asi 120 MM-S
Asi 294 MC pro

Heq5 pro 

Stacked and processed in pixinsight  

great job Steve!

38 minutes ago, Kinch said:

Thanks very much for saying so........perhaps we will convert you to NB yet 🤣.

(Truth is, I fight the light pollution here and without NB filters I would be looking for a new hobby!) 

No problem at all! it wouldnt take much to Convert me  i currently use a OSC with L-Enhance and do like my findings, you have inspired me to do this "Hubble pallet" look on my latest target! clear skies Kinch 

lovely Carole, great job. not often you see these targets, very refreshing 

What a fantastic Image @Kinch i really like this! im not a huge fan of HOO and SHO etc but some nebula just really take to them and this is a fine example, great work.

Nice one Chris! I used to own the 600d its a great DSLR for astro good job 

1 minute ago, JamesF said:

That's what I meant   Leave the visual back on the OTA and then fit that adapter to the male thread on the end of it.

You should still be able to get focus.  Maks and SCTs focus by moving the focal plane to where it's in focus (by moving the primary mirror) rather than moving the eyepiece to where the focal plane is.

James

Perfect, thank you ill use that then and i get the other diagonal sent. Thank you for your help 

24 minutes ago, JamesF said:

The existing visual back has a T2 male thread I think.  It might be possible to fit something like this to it:

  https://www.365astronomy.com/Visual-Back-T2-to-1.25-with-additional-T2-male-thread-SHORT-version.html

That seems the simplest option.  Alternatively you could convert the thread on the back of the Mak to SCT and then look for an SCT compression visual back, but there don't seem to be many of those that are 1.25".

James

Thanks, i have one of them adaptors and its two small! after searching a little it looks like this is a common issue, im waiting for altair to get back to me about the diagonal they sent as they were sure it would fit (it doesnt) and id like to grab there 1.25" one like i was going to in the first place.

I can however fit the item you linked to the end of the part in the picture i took, that would give me a compression fitting but not sure if that will effect any focus at all??

8 minutes ago, sputniksteve said:

Does this thread offer any helpful suggestions? 

 

thanks im just checking out 365 astronomy as they have a fair few adapters, just cautious of the wrong one being sent again so ill message Zoltan  

1 minute ago, Robindonne said:

Just measure the thread diam.  I have the black and white one.  With a black dovetail.  And still got that mak thread instead of sc thread

Thanks, yea i did and I still got sent the wrong diagnoal 😅 now I know what its called ill imagine I can find more info on it. 

Just now, JamesF said:

Don't think it can be that old, judging by the colour.

James

its the black one mate not the green black and white if that helps

1 minute ago, sputniksteve said:

How old is your Mak?

not old to me but its the black one so im guessing a fair bit old?

hi can anyone advsied what term would be used to describe this piece? 

It attaches to my 127 mak and I would like to swap it out for a compression fitting one. 

Altair sent me a diagonal but it was two big so going for the 1.25 diagonal and would like it to slot into a compression fitting.

Many thanks 

Dan 

6 minutes ago, Messy Hair 101 said:

Yes Jupiter and Saturn nearing opposition did rekindle my interest in planetary. I'll be curious to see if anyone wants to weigh in with some mono experience as well although colour is back on the table (and a mak!)

haha the bottomless money pit of a hobby we share! a few maks around the £200 mark atm with extras.  

maybe pop into the ZWO facebook group if your on there, your get a lot more help with your decision there mate.

good luck with your camera search!

1 hour ago, Messy Hair 101 said:

I feel like I'm on the psychiatrist's couch a bit but you're right, I do sound like I want mono don't I? Or I at least think I should want mono. It's reassuring to know you are seeing a big improvement with a similar setup to me.

Funnily enough I've looked at Maks and SCTs as well during my long search. I had a 6SE which I let go when I got the ED80 and have always regretted it a bit. I bought it with the mount and accessories for £300 a number of years ago. Astro bargain of the century!

Probably worth considering to truly get some decent planetary shots.

Thanks for your help with this.

 

No problem at all, i often like reading discussions like this because ive been in the same boat many times and like others thoughts. Again you cant go wrong with both so go with what you feel is best. there all good cams.

As for the mak! im blown away, myself and the wife viewed jupiter and saturn last night it was a great experience! 

1 hour ago, Messy Hair 101 said:

It's reassuring to know you are seeing a big improvement with a similar setup to me

this was a single sub taken last night with the L-pro and 294mc pro, excuse the potatoe quality as i took it on my phone from the laptop, the stars arent trailing ither thats just the shakes   can see great detail after only 240 secs @-10°c

25 minutes ago, Messy Hair 101 said:

Thanks Dan. Yes I've spent countless hours on Astronomy Tools! The 294 was a consideration as well. I have also run them through Bintel's tool to check for over/under sampling. 

After smooth talking my wife and pointing out I'd already got her a Christmas present, I can cover the cost of filters. I'm wary of reigniting the great mono vs OSC debate again. I do like colour for convenience and I imagine I would see better results initially as the learning curve is shallower. I just don't want to get a year down the line and regret not going mono. I know there is a strong argument that, once you're set up, mono doesn't take as long as although you are taking several passes with different filters, you are building up data more quickly, but yes, it would be annoying if you are half way through a sequence and the sky turns to cotton wool.

I do want to stick with ZWO as well because I know their kit and have looked at it a lot, plus, you know, they're red 😀

Ideally I would like 1 camera which can cover the gap of my 550d and take better planetary images than my 120 (although I'm aware with a 510 focal length, planetary is never going to be amazing).

I have an L-pro as well and will be looking at the L-Enhance at the same time I think. I know there is an L-Extreme which looks interesting...

 

No Worries,

By the sounds of it you do really want the mono but something is holding you back..

I think if budget allows id go mono if i was you, im getting the feeling thats what you really want. Tbh im hugely impressed with the 294mc pro its a great cam, if i was to order again id probably look passed the square sensor and actually go with the 533 due to the amp glow. I like the fact i have a colour cam but i can also pull out some fantastic HA and 0ii data still with a swap of a filter. think its very versatile.

Id sell the 120 scope and get a 127 mak mate they are "the bees knees" for planetary im over the moon with mine and very cheap to grab hold of, leave you with some extra cash towards some other gear  

24 minutes ago, Messy Hair 101 said:

I'm going to be that guy. Sorry. I'm after some advice on the "best" camera for my setup.

A little background - I have been into astronomy for about 7 years but have become more involved in the last 18 months and trying to push what I can do. I'm looking to upgrade my AP setup, ideally with 1 ZWO camera. The question is, which one?

Current setup is the classic Skywatcher 80ED with a 0.85x FR on a HEQ5 Pro with belt mod. I'm guiding with a 120mc-s on an Evoguide 50. I sometimes use the 120 for planetary but the main imaging camera at the moment is an astro modded 550D (Thanks @Adam j, still enjoying this).

The question is basically an upgrade path from here. I am interested primarily in nebula and galaxies, but do like to do some planetary and lunar work from time to time. I like the convenience of OSC but my brain is telling me mono would be better in the long run, although more of a learning curve. Camera wise, I would like to stick with ZWO and the 183 and 1600 are on my wish list (cooled), in both mono and colour flavours. 

Would one of those be the best compromise or would I need to invest in a smaller, planetary camera too?

Is the mini filter wheel and filter set bundled with the 1600 good enough or is there something better for a similar cost?
I would look to keep the 550d for wider field shots so could go with a smaller pixel size on the dedicated astro cam to make targets appear a bit bigger.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I realise this is a bit of a stream of consciousness rather than a specific question. I just want some reassurance before I make a big investment.

I just switched from a 600d to a asi294mc pro, couldn't be happier. 

Will i go mono later down the line...yes im sure i will but atm with uk weather an OSC is what gets me the images i require in the limited time weather wise i get. Like most astro "stuff" im guessing the 294mc pro will hold some nice value to change in the future but for now the filters plus filter wheel plus cam and lack of clear skies meant the OSC was a winner for me.

That coupled with the L-pro filter for galaxy and reflection neb and the L-enhance for emission neb really does everything and more i need and have had some great images from it.

Dont think you can go wrong with either you suggested, maybe check https://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_suitability for best fit for your scope and FOV. I have a mono asi120mm usb 3 for guiding and debating weather to get filters for that for the 127 mak or a 224, one thing i know is i really like zwo cams and will probably stick with them.

Do you have the time to do 3 sets of images on a certain target?

Do the cost implications of a filter wheel, filters and a 1600 fit your budget?

If the answer to both those questions is yes then i would go Mono.

I have a 80mm frac also like you.

HTH Dan

me again! 

Good news is I've found why the dec was stiff! I've stripped down again and found that the bell housing had a knick in it somehow and that was catching on the brass worm gear, i filed down and nownits buttery smooth.

My next issue is in astro babys guide she mentions the red washer on the RA but never mentions on on the dec at all and I have two! I previously used the other one at the bottom of the bell housing but I think that's incorrect as there's a metal type spacer down there i think the bearing sits on? 

.any one advise where the second red washer goes please.

Photo below is when I know for sure one goes.

Edit. Added another pic to show where I had it before 

43 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

There is a lovely secondhand Mesu on ABS 😉 

Nae pockets in shrouds etc !!

Haha, bit overkill for my rig there billy. 

Billy can I ask you mate , I've now put the mount back togther and slewed 360° with the RA and DEC on eqmod and everything seems fine, everything is moving and no loud crunches etc. Is there anything else I'm looking for as to a tell tell sign the worms need further adjustments? 

Also is there a program I can use to see if its running OK without phd and a clear night? 

31 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

Its because the gears are not quite round - in the end I picked the high point (the point where it is stiffest) and adjust the backlash at that point. That will leave you with a bit of backlash elsewhere but just run east heavy.

Its a compromise but short of replacing the gears there isn't much else you can do - there is no guarantee that a new set of gears would be any better - they could be worse!! Its a fact of life at the price point.

Cheers Billy. Yes I am actually contemplating upgrading the mount but still want to complete this. I'll try your advice.

Thanks 

Dan

10 hours ago, wimvb said:

With these "budget" mounts, there will always be a trade off between slight backlash and slight uneven movement. If the mount runs free for one complete rotation of the axis, you're very likely to have backlash. I would accept some uneveness. In the end, your guiding statistics and star shapes will tell you if you need to adjust more or not.

Thank you,  its more so for my knowledge while trying to adjust the worm gears after strip down. Its bloody hard to say "yep thats right" when you don't know what right is if that makes sense! 

I have a tiny bit of stiffness in the RA head when moved with my finger but then the cog seems a little too slack maybe but not slipping. It could be fine but I dont know what its meant to be like