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Posts posted by JoshHopk
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In Stellarium, there's a 'Graphs' tab under the 'Astronomical Calculations Window', with which you can select different graphs with different info. If you select the object you're interested in it should plot a graph for your location (if you've set it up). Here's an example of M42 over the year.
HTH 😃
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The NexStar 6SE has an equatorial wedge you can use to polar align for longer exposures, I'd suggest trying that out (If you haven't already) before you spend anything. If you haven't any luck with that the next step is normally an equatorial mount and a short focal length telescope. I'll leave the more experienced members to discuss that with you, as I'm only really a beginner myself. DSLRs are a great staring point for deep sky BTW, a dedicated astro cam would be jumping the gun I think.
Josh
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Thanks jgs and lux, that's the advice I needed to hear. I'll try and get the ropes first and then upgrade, if the need arises.
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Awesome 🤩
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Never mind! After a bit more searching I’ve found some info which has helped me decide. (Mod the 1300D; it has a good dynamic range and manageable noise at suitable exposure times for the 130-PDS)
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Hey Ant,
There’s quite a few cameras in the ZWO range which will give you a ‘closer up’ view. I use the ASI224MC (Don’t know if you’ve considered this) and it’s given me some superb results, considering it’s currently sitting at £220 from FLO.
As Merlin suggested a reducer can be used as well, as the chip on the 224 is pretty small.
The process that you described (Video stacking to make an image) is correct yes.
I’ve included some of the moon shots I’ve got with the 224MC, NexStar 5SE (1250/127) and a 2x barlow.Hope this helps, I’m only a beginner, so someone correct me if I’m wrong! 😄
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Hi all,
I’m looking to move into deep sky AP with a HEQ5 Pro and a SW130-PDS. I’ve heard this is a relatively nice way to get started. Anyway, in regards to a DSLR, I currently have a Canon 1300D, and was wondering if this is any good to start with? If so I would likely get it modified, or is it worth getting another model (e.g. a 600D) and modifying this instead? I will be using a SW 0.9x coma corrector as well.
Thanks in advance,
Josh
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6 minutes ago, CraigT82 said:
If you use AS3! It can handle much larger files (no need to use pipp to shorten captures) and you shoot in Raw mode It should automatically detect the bayer pattern and debayer the frames correctly.
Okay, thanks. I’ll install AS!3 and use it next time.
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Thanks all for the fast responses and the warm welcome to SGL. So, to recap: I should capture in RAW and debayer (using RGGB as the bayer matrix order) before stacking in PIPP, or whilst stacking in AS!2.
Thanks again, Josh
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5 minutes ago, CraigT82 said:
Do you mean RGB24? I didn't think there was a RAW24?
If I remember correctly RGB24 means that the camera itself is doing the debayering. You really want to capture in RAW and debayer during the post processing.
Yes, sorry I do mean RGB24. I'll be sure to capture in RAW next time I get some clear skies. Thank you
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3 minutes ago, vlaiv said:
Hi and welcome to SGL and yes, I believe this is related to debayering - or particularly wrong bayer matrix order used.
RGGB should be proper order, but this also depends on other things - like if software used reads frames "bottom/up" or "top/down" (don't ask - strange convention that screen space is top/down - positive Y direction is down, while file space is, like regular coordinates with positive axis going up and sometimes software developers don't pay attention to this or choose to disregard this for simplicity).
Wow! I don't think I will ask; that sounds most confusing. I'll ensure to have a look at which bayer matrix order I use when processing. Thanks for the reply!
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4 minutes ago, Cornelius Varley said:
Debayering should done at the time of stacking. An alternative method is to run the avi file through PIPP and select the debayering option for the output file.
Thanks, I was very confused as to what order to do this in. I installed PIPP a while back but haven't really used it yet. Thanks for your advice, I'll give it a go!
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Hello all,
This is my first post on SL, so please correct me if I have started this topic in the wrong place. I am also relatively new to astrophotography, so please ignore my naivety!
I had some clear skies last week, so decided to do some lunar imaging with my new(ish) ASI224MC. I captured my frames in SharpCap as RAW24 AVI files, stacked in AS!2 and processed in Registax and Photoshop. When i got to sharpening in Photoshop, I noticed a sort of mosaic pattern over the image, which took away from some of the detail, and really ruined the image the more I sharpened. I did a quick search and it turned up with 'debayering'. This is a completely new concept to me and all of my attempts didn't seem to improve the image at all (perhaps I was debayering in the wrong order?). I have attached some images and also my some of my SharpCap settings in case they are of help.
COLOUR SPACE: RAW24
CAPTURE ARE: 1304x976
OUTPUT FORMAT: AVI files (*.avi)
EXPOSURE: 0.29ms
GAIN: 282
Thank you in advance
Regards, Josh.
Skywatcher 200P, or 150P-DS
in Getting Started General Help and Advice
Posted · Edited by JoshHopk
Typo
Hi Richard,
If you're wanting to do deep sky AP, a HEQ5 is usually considered a minimum, as previous replies have mentioned. The 200P is quite large and will be a bit of a sail in the wind, (not good for long exposures). The 150P-DS was designed with AP in mind, and it'll be easier to focus using a DSLR, and even a dedicated astro cam, if ever you get one. Both scopes are f/5, so the 200P's larger aperture won't make a difference, so long as you use longer exposure times.
Josh