MarkAR

If its a capacitor that failed, sometimes you can visually see a bulge or split in it. Could be C3 near the pins.

Hello Mike, I'm fairly close to you in Guildford. I'm still waiting for my SkyGuider but was looking on Googlemaps and light pollution maps for suitable places to try out.

Thursley, Hankley and Puttenham commons look promising.

https://www.nightblight.cpre.org.uk/maps/

1 minute ago, blinky said:

Maplins!  They closed a few years ago

Damn, thought it was just a few shops that were closed.

I think you might have found the culprit, by the looks of the pictures, the circuit board is a bit lumpy looking around it.

As for testing, try simple continuity test between the 4 soldering points on it. Tried a google search for the circuit board diagram but couldn't find anything so no idea what the component is. If you have a Maplins local to you, pop in and see if anyone can help.

If Blinky is right, then reassemble and see if you have continuity between the positive power input (centre jack pin) and the body or the screw.

Well done, lovely image.

Excellent detail.

Sounds like some sort of short circuit. 

If the 12v power supply is working fine then it does sound like an internal fault.

I  think you'll need to have a look at the circuit board to see if anything has blown, any burnt areas or smokey smell. Also check the wires for any frayed or chafed insulation.

If you can get the correct adapter then I would say just do it. There is other software you can use, Canon Utility will work with the right cable so you can control the M10 from a laptop and capture images.

Or just use the Canon app on your phone.

How about doing a conversion on one of these ready build tubes.

Thanks for the clarification. I can see that you might have vibration problems with that set up, good luck in finding a better solution.

Lovely image.

Looks possible if you get this and a suitable T-Ring adapter for your DSLR.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/opticron-spotting-scopes/opticron-telephoto-adapter-40215.html

Looks like it'll be the equivalent of a 950mm f11.9 lens, so not the fastest aperture wise.

Difficult to see in the picture, is the scope mounted on rings around the camera lens or a hotshot mount ?

I was just thinking that using some sort of dovetail mounting might have been a possibly more versatile solution that would make it easier to get the scope and lens aligned and maybe more versatile with different lens set ups.

If what you've made works then all is well and good. Keep up the good work and hope to see the final finished piece soon.

Interesting design and great work so far.

Just wondering if an "over/ under" double dovetail mount would work. That way with the guidescope underneath and the camera above they would feasibly both be pointing along the same axis.

Here's a few screenshots of the flats with details on Canon DPP4

Well I managed to get hold of a sheet of 3mm 40% perspex, cut a piece and taped on foam blocks.

If anyone wants a piece of the perspex for a filter holder let me know the size and I'll cut a piece.

Very good, I particularly like the peachy colour of the flame. A nice contrast to the red.

Very nice image. Lovely pale blues and red showing through.

Funny enough I was just looking at possible sights near me, Puttenham, Hanley and Thursley commons all look possible.

How about taking a copy of the image to your local Curries and ask to see it on their biggest screen 😁

So far this is the best basic Siril tutorial I have found.

Definitely need to tick the debayering box first.

Thank you everyone. Well I'm still waiting for my IOptron Skyguider to be delivered but I thought I'd pop outside the other night and take a couple of stills.

Taken with my Canon 80d, Samyang 14mm F2.4 set at F2.8, ISO 1600 for 15 seconds.

Tweaked it a little in Mac Photos to try to remove some light pollution,  supposedly Bortal 5 here.

Mine's on its way soonish, just hope i don't have issues with the MAC version.

Also take note of the weight of the mount, how easy it would be for you to move it around.

Definitely looks like a bad porous casting. Might want to give it a really good clean to check no grainy particles (possibly casting sand) have ground themselves into the good metal.