AntHart

Thanks for your reply mate...I’m quickly learning there is much much more than meets the eye with this hobby/obsession! I have a Canon 6d mk1 full frame but was looking more towards a dedicated colour or mono camera purely for the reason of ..in layman’s terms .. of getting in closer by using a smaller chip to give a smaller fov..if that makes sense? I know what I mean just not sure of the correct terminology. ive included a photo below to demonstrate...only used M31 as it shows what I mean easier. Yes, I could just go for a longer FL scope but the design and quality of this is stunning for the price plus portability is a big tick for me. Your comment about using a Ha filter with a bayer matrix makes sense, although I wouldn’t be keeping it fitted all the time I’d image in colour and just pop in the Ha filter as needed. Thats the way I was planning to use it...is that not the case then? I ‘was’ looking at these cameras but not sure now what might or might not be suitable. ASI 183 MC /pro ASI 183 MM /pro Maybe I need to try and get my head around it a little more..I though I was doing well!ha! Cheers Ant

Hey looking at the William Optics RedCat/SpaceCat (250mm/f4.9) and a colour camera to best suit this. Ideally ASI brand...as may go the ASIair route with it. (Portable setup) Budget Up to £1000 ... Thats a lot for me for a camera so it’s a big decision! I know Mono and filters would always be better and if I were in a permanent setup like a garden I’d go that way but as my rig needs to be portable with no ideal spot for it at home I want to make the most of clear and dark sky’s when I’m out. So I think a colour camera would be best with a Ha filter maybe? still very new to this so any advice always welcome 👍🏼 Cheers Ant

Hey I’ve been watching a few vids on YouTube tonight about matching cameras to lenses/scopes. Kept hearing arcsecond per pixel so googled that and found Atik cameras website with a table. pixel size of the cameras chip divided by focal length times 206 to get the ‘arcsecond per pixel number’ From what I gather in plain English if the number you get is between 1-2 your golden and will have a beautiful detailed image...Awesome!...except... I did the calcs for a ‘well known/well advised setup for beginners like myself’ Canon 6d - Samyang 135mm ...it came out almost 10!!! Ive seen stunning images with this setup so how is this calculation right? ........ Is it because it’s such a wide field view when you zoom right the way in/pixel peep it would look ‘bad’ anyway regardless of the camera used?...not sure I’ve described that the best but sure you get my meaning! Is this more a ‘rule’ for very long focal lengths getting right in on the action and something not to worry about with the upto 200mm focal lengths I’ll be intending on using? It’s got me puzzled! Cheers for any advice Ant

Thanks you mate, I’ll have a look 👍🏼

That’s one I’ve been looking at mate, the Sam f2 looks epic for the price! My only worry was the 135mm vs 200mm FL , I know it’s not much but being full frame every little helps The 200mm I’m looking at is the Canon 200mm f2.8 L (black one red ring) it’s a prime not the 70-200 like I might have given the impression 👍🏼 Cheers

I’ve been looking at the Canon 200mm f2.8 L prime...plus the Samyang 135mm f2...both around £400 ..prices are for Canon used VGC, Samyang new. Cheers for the reply

What an awesome website!! Thank you mate I’ve signed up..no images yet but I’m on there as AntHart 👍🏼

Hey I’ve got a dilemma! I have a Canon 6d mk1, full frame that I’ve only ever used for wide angle ‘landscape Astro’ - 14/24/50mm...great results!! im looking to go deeper (135-200mm ish) with a camera lens, not scope just yet. I’d love to get more nebulously/Ha...so Im considering modding it.. not myself, professionally. I don’t know What's best? Ha or full spectrum?so I got watching a few videos.. The 6d being full frame, clip filters are quite expensive as I’m still using lenses not a scope with a filter wheel/draw This got me thinking... My 6d is my only camera and If I have it modded that’s £300ish, filter(s) about the same again. Being full frame , in the future I’ll likely need to buy a flattener when I move up to a telescope (refractor) so thats £200 more.. Were up to around £800 now.....and that’s decent dedicated astro camera territory. . The options then are ... 1. The really smart adapter (Altair sell) for canon lenses to fit on an astro cam/cooled camera. This has a 1.25” circular filter slot which I could fit Ha/RGB/etc... and use a dedicated camera instead of a dslr. The option then is Colour vs Mono... . I know I’m a beginner and really don’t want to appear like I’m trying to get ahead of myself ...and Ive certainly not got G.A.S!lol...just trying to think smart . THE MAIN QUESTION ... Should I have my 6d modded if it’s future MAIN use will be attached to a telescope? (Mid size refractor) Or Maybe Im best to buy a used crop sensor/APS-C dslr and mod it myself? Clip in Filters are certainly cheaper and more readily available in APS-C Or Is this the time to decide to invest the funds in to buying a dedicated cooled camera which I’ll no doubt end up buying one day anyway. And would you choose colour or mono? . Lets call the budget £800 . Im going to guess most will say Dedicated cooled colour camera with a Ha filter 😁 Let’s see! As always thanks in advance for taking the time to read and hopefully reply Ant

Hey I’m looking to get in to lunar imaging. Currently I have a Canon 6d which when paired to my Altair 6” RC (1370/f9) only covers a small amount of the frame. Id like to get much closer ...so Options are a Barlow in-line with the 6d Or a different camera that ‘crops’in more...crop sensor dslr or dedicated Astro camera . What do you guys use who lunar image? i don’t know much about this type of imaging, from watching videos you take a video, stack the frames and process to create a photo? Is that correct? looking to spend up to £300 be it a photo-visual Barlow using the gear I have OR A used crop dslr or a new dedicated Astro camera..whatever is considered best Should be a photo below showing different options I’m looking at but open to advice on Everything 👍🏼 Cheers, Ant Edit ... the 294mc definitely isn’t £300...but it fits so sweet!lol

I’ll keep this one short and to the point for once If I’m using a DSLR (full frame Canon 6d) why should I use a refractor telescope, plus flattener, plus an adaptor ...and not just use something like a 150-600mm f5-6.3 zoom lens instead?? is it because a telescope is designed to perform better (baffles/coatings and what not)? is it down to the quality of glass? is it because telescopes have finer focus control? As a beginner I’ve more questions than answers!ha! Anyone out there using a big zoom camera lens (400-600mm) please post some photos ...plus any ED80 guys would be ace to Be great to hear some pros and cons for each 👍🏼 Cheers, Ant

Hey My question is... what would be the best portable imaging and guiding setup..Control wise. Ideally I’d like to use a tablet (Android/apple/windows) ..not fussed Unlike ‘most’ people, I won’t have a permanent setup...my home location isn’t suitable so at weekends the plan is to go off in my van and camp out at dark sky locations under the stars Each and every time I’ll be putting the rig together from scratch, levelling, PA, even balancing!! AFAIK, there are 2 ways of doing it for tablet control. ASIair and app (apple/ Android) Pi and stellarmate os and stellarmate app?? ( not sure if get full function using app) . The ASIair pro looks an awesome bit of kit...although it’s not ‘that expensive‘ -£299...there are cheaper options... A raspberry Pi 4 (4GB) plus Stellarmate OS is something I’ve considered...all in plus case/OS/bits is around £150. My concern with this is the Linux/programming/code and setting it all up. Is it just a case of once everything is installed it can be run in a similar way to the ASIair? ...and the app is able to do as much as the ASI app does? The ASIair seems simpler by just using an app for everything..the PA feature is very appealing. i know the ASIair only controls certain cameras , my Canon 6d is fully supported, plus I don’t own a guide cam yet so this issue with it isn’t a problem for me. I’ve never guided or controlled my mount ( Skywatcher EQ6-pro ) with anything other than the handset before. imaging is completely new to me I would prefer to use a laptop but with even the best only lasting around 8hrs and then needing mains power to charge , being in the van with only 12v and USB power a tablet would last longer and be easy to recharge if I’m there a few nights. Really confused what to do and would really appreciate any help Cheers Ant

That’s a plus 1 for the ASIair then simple is definitely a good way to go for me being a beginner cheers mate👍🏼

I didn’t realise sharp cap could do that! ...that’s very useful to know thank you also the live stacking ..that’s great to know too. This would save me a good few quid not needing the polar scope/polemaster which makes the laptop method considerably cheaper. Now I really am torn! thanks for your help mate 👍🏼

Hey Im a complete beginner to imaging. Trying to decide/work out the pros and cons of going for.. 1. A windows based laptop system with software (stellarium/eqv / phd / apt / backyard eos ) OR 2. The ASIair Pro with an iPad or android tablet I have neither a laptop or a tablet at the moment so this is kind of a fresh start in every sense! I must say though if a laptop is suggested I only need something good enough for image acquisition and running the software to track and control...I have a Decent spec windows desktop for editing /stacking/processing My mount is an EQ6 pro synscan and I have a Canon 6d dslr. A spanner in the works!...and mainly the reason I’m posting... The ASIair does the polar alignment via the app and main scope.. so no need for a separate electronic polar scope(which I want for ease and accuracy setting up) that I would need to buy if I used a laptop rather than a tablet and ASIair app The ASI unit is £300 ...a polar scope is £250 A cheap laptop (15inch min) is around the same price as an iPad or android tablet. This is what I’m really struggling with! The fact it’s wireless isn’t a factor for me I’m happy with either What I want is the best setup for a beginner that’s easy to understand and use but able to perform and help me get some great images. What do you guys suggest ? Where would your money go? Cheers, Ant

Hey Complete beginner here!, never used any type of guiding... Not looking to open a can of worms but I’ve a feeling it will! Off Axis vs Normal guiding...pros and cons My setup will be a Canon 6d dslr(full frame) with a 70-80mm APO, field flattener and EQ6-pro Mount. i was intending to buy a generic ‘guiding package’ using an ASI camera and mini scope. i then read about off axis guiding... Is this something I should consider vs a normal setup or is there more to it?...just like there seems to be with everything in Astrophotography!ha! Off topic... im considering the ASIair Pro and tablet vs using a laptop and something like APT/backyard eos ...if I go with the ASIair I want to future proof/ make sure what I buy works in terms of guiding with it ...if that makes any difference to the off axis guiding question Any help would be greatly appreciated as always Cheers Ant

Hey after some advice regarding DSLR’s to modify/ have modified professionally for a dedicated Astro imaging camera. i have a Canon 6d mk1 , full frame that I use for wide angle nightscapes (14-50mm) .i know this would be a great one to modify but I’m keeping this for that and I’m after one with a crop/smaller sensor to take advantage of gaining focal length. I’ll be using a portable tracking mount like the SkyGuider pro or star adventurer so loosing weight is a big priority...my thinking is ...I can gain more focal length from the same weight/size scope just by using a crop sensor dslr...correct 😕 im looking to use a william optics ZS61 or ZS73, so around 400mm FL...640mm if using a crop sensor dslr... I digress!.... im looking to stay with Canon what dslr is recommended/ the ‘goto’ crop sensor for modding ... buying modded vs professional modding vs diy I’m happy with older cameras if better could I get the same(ish) effect with a non modded camera and use filters?? any advice greatly appreciated 😁 cheers Ant

Hey A though I had...probably obvious to the More experienced but being a beginner I’d rather ask than make mistakes... if I have a guide scope with for example a 200mm focal length is it better than a 150mm one as it ‘enlarges’ the guide star more and hence is an easier target to track ?? in my mind if something is larger it’s easier to see, if it’s easier to see it’s easier to follow...which in my noob terms is what a guide scope and camera does...mixed in with a little bit of algorithmic magic if I’m wrong...please let me know why so I can learn is a guide scopes focal length dependant on what your imaging...kind of the same way a small vs large refractor is? or is there an ‘ideal/one for all’ guide scope size...and recommend kit Be great to hear some advice. i have a Skywatcher EQ6 pro , Canon 6d DSLR and soon to be WO Z61 or Z73....literally just starting out! thanks for any help Ant

I’d be more than happy to replace with original manufacturers grease...is it available to buy? Not sure what I’d google to find it...I tried Sky-Watcher grease etc but nothing really came up. Cheers

I was looking at that kit too...I just assumed right or wrong that if a reputable retailer like that sells it then it must be good to use Thanks mate

I’ve read quite a few use ‘superlube’ ...would this be good for the taper roller bearings as well as the worm and big brass gears too? Cheers

Hi After owning my mount for around 8 years, and originally purchasing 2nd hand I’ve decided to give it a full strip down, clean, regrease and reassemble. ive used ‘AstroBaby’s’ guide to do this and have all parts disassembled, cleaned up and ready to put back together. it was actually a fairly simple job if you take one step at a time The question I keep reading and seems to have a lot of conflicting info is which grease and what type to use. when I took my mount apart it had remnants of the thick black goop typical of my brand of mount, although not a lot of it so it definitely needed doing! Does anyone have a definitive answer of what I should be using? Both for the worm gears and bearings? im in no rush to re assemble and just use something from a DIY shop! I’m happy to order what is regarded as the best stuff to use and do it properly If anyone has advice on this and has done it themselves I’d love to hear from you Cheers Ant

Hey im looking for a laptop for imaging...scope control/APT, guiding control/PHD, stellarium/eqv for goto etc. Only really looking to ‘Capture data and control’...not looking to edit and process images with it....I have a decent desktop pc for that. Am I right thinking even a low power( cpu/ram/ graphics laptop would be ok as just acquiring data doesn’t need that much , it’s the processing and stacking and photoshop type stuff that needs a powerful machine? I have a MacBook atm and the software is either bit naff or costly compared to windows so looking for a windows 10 laptop, 15 inch Full HD screen with about 8 gig of ram and a ssd hard drive plus Ethernet port and usb3/type c....ideally no more than £500 I’ve also thought of going for an ASIair and iPad...if that’s a good choice ? just assumed a pc with windows rather than a tablet with apps would be better? im certainly open to all ideas cheers

Hi, I’m thinking of building or installing a fixed pier in my garden. im new to imaging so please forgive me if this is a dumb question...I’ve read mixed info online so thought I’d just ask the question If I’m building a pier and leaving the mount fixed to it (just remove scope and cables) Do I need to polar align just once and I’m done? If this is true the fixed pier is a definite go! Polar alignment is such a faff!, even 10-20mins each time eats away at imaging time especially here in the UK. If a pier is just more of a solid base and polar alignment still needs doing each time then I’m also interested in getting an ipolar or similar to help. ill be controlling via a laptop for imaging and guiding anyway ...plus I don’t trust the polar scope on my old EQ6 pro! Like I say, apologies if this is a really basic question! I’m totally new to imaging but doing my best to learn cheers! Ant

Hi Guys! My first post :) I’ve decided to take the plunge and begin the hobby..or addiction of Astrophotography! About 8 years ago I purchased a 2nd hand EQ6-pro, I’ve only ever really used it for visual through a 6 inch Newtonian. All I could see was grey fuzz or the moon!lol so I got bored and put it away in a cupboard! For a few years now I’ve been taking wide field Astro photos using my DSLR and 14/24mm prime lenses which has given me the bug again! I want to start taking images of galaxies and nebulae and all that good stuff which I simply can’t get with with my wide lenses. My plan was to get a small refractor like a WO Z61 or Z73, field flattener and mount my 6D DSLR to it, Plus use a small auto guiding package. Run everything off a laptop My question really is...is my mount up to imaging? Things have come on a long way in mount technology I guess since I last looked at buying one so I’m wondering, imaging wise if I’m best selling on the old EQ6 pro and buying something more up to date? OR If my old mount is able to work and work well is there anything I can do to it to improve it?..Strip and Regrease ...Belt Mod...?? ive never had it apart before, nor do I really know how it was used before I bought it so it might need a good going over it might not...is there any way to tell for potential issues? Im happy to do any work myself I’m pretty handy with mechanics looking for advice really wether to stick with this mount or look for something new. if new, max budget is around £800 any advice greatly appreciated :) Ant