AntHart

I had a feeling they would be, I’d love to come and say hi once we’re all back to normal.

Thanks for that, I’ll check it out 👍🏼

Didn’t even realise this existed!! Literally 5 mins from my house...great shout 😁

That’s a very good price!

Hi, The J5005 model/chip is the one on my shortlist. Theres a NUC with that cpu for £170(plus 8gb ram and 120gb ssd and o/s) so about £270 all in. Theres one made by Minix with that cpu for roughly the same price ready to go, looks pretty decent. Im just trying to weigh up if that cpu will be snappy enough once running Windows, Remote Desktop Plus all the other software. Id rather get something a little over powered for the job than something that’s at its limits. Don’t want to make the mistake of cheaping out, regretting it and have to buy twice! Cheers Ant

Don’t suppose you have any further specs or info on the model you use do you? Sounds like just the type of thing I’m after. Cheers

I did think about a machine like that but as I’m looking to be able to use it with DC power/no access to mains that’s why I decided on a ‘low power’ mini pc like a NUC Cheers

Your NUC has more power than my current desktop/editing machine!ha!

For anyone interested, I ordered the case from CPC yesterday and it arrived today. First impressions...seems really solid, good quality hinges and locking tabs, foam padding seems decent quality too. Ill post some photos once I’ve got it made 👍🏼👍🏼

That’s absolutely brilliant mate! Thank you so much for this 😁

Hey ive seen a few posts and vids of people using the intel NUCs attached to mounts for controlling and imaging. i know for just image acquisition not a lot of processing power is needed but I’m looking to use this with a Remote Desktop setup... NUC on the mount, controlled via Ethernet cable to my pc in the house. Am I correct thinking the NUC/mini pc is doing all the work (remote desktop wise) ...the pc I’m controlling it with has the easy job? If so... I’m looking for something with a bit more oomph than just a ‘generic low powered mini pc’ which is why I’m looking at a NUC. If anyone uses something like this be great to know the specs of the ‘NUC/mini pc’ to compare with what I’ve got in mind Cheers Ant

Mines the old EQ6-pro synscan..about 8yrs old. Bought it 2nd hand but she’s aged well My puck from memory looks about the same as yours. Im actually planning on using a polemaster/ipolar so thinking of removing the original polar scope completely..no need for the end cap then and maybe bit of room for padding instead. Its mainly just going to be used for ‘safer transportation’ not take any rough handling. Thsts something else I’ve been wondering..do you transport yours with the clutches loose so it has a bit of ‘wiggle’ or keep them tight and the mount ridged? I’d imagine loose as puts no stress on it from vibrations/pot holes!ha Thanks for your help with this mate 👍🏼

Don’t suppose you know the size of the one you bought do you mate? That link throws up 80 of them!ha ive not got my mount here to measure it so if you could help me out that would be brilliant 😁

I really have got my heart set on a hard case mate but thank you very much for posting 😁

Ooo I like that!!!! Spot on mate thank you 😁

Thanks for the reply mate I’m not sure I could swallow £200 on a case, sure it’s pretty much indestructible but I think I’ll end up looking elsewhere/diff brand...maybe even go the DIY route with something like a musicians flight case and cut some foam to suit. If I find anything suitable for cheaper would you mind me hijacking your post to let guys know...it’s a very popular post by looks of things. Cheers

Hi, I’m looking for a hard protective case for my EQ6 pro mount for when I’m transporting it. Just for the mount ‘head’...not weight and tripod. Anyone have any recommendations? Also, as a massive favour, anyone who has this mount...would you please be able to measure it for me (LxWxH)...I don’t have my mount at home at the moment. id imagine it’s roughly the same size as the EQ6-R / NEQ6. If anyone can help me out I’d appreciate it no end Ant

Hey I’m a beginner imager...looking to go from using my dslr and intervalometer to PC control. I’d like to use APT on a windows 10 mini pc (outside/on the scope) and connect to it via either WiFi or Ethernet to control everything from another Windows pc. For controlling remotely I’m looking to use ‘team viewer/VNC/windows Remote Desktop function’ What would be a good spec to look for in a mini pc that works well with APT with enough power to control remotely without being slow. This is only for taking the images, controlling the mount, guiding, stacking etc...Not processing or intensive work. id rather err on the side of caution and get something ‘over spec’ though than go cheapest and ‘just good enough’ and regret It. Cheers, Ant

I’ve got so much to learn mate! I know some of my questions must seem daft or obvious to some but I’ve always been taught it’s better to ask than guess an answer which is why I’m always so grateful for help 👍🏼

Hey With everything going on in the world and most of us staying at home I need a project to keep me busy! I’m looking in to self modifying a dslr solely for astro use. Let’s call it a budget of £200 for the body... I’ll be buying used from mbp.com(UK) ...and selecting ‘condition - best first’ in the sorting. What would you choose? Flippy articulating screen isn’t a must as I’ll be controlling from a laptop , not fussed about touchscreen either. Im just looking for best performance bang per buck Ive seen a few people using 450d’s /600d’s / 700d’s ... I’ve scoured astrobin... I’ve searched YouTube. Any help from you guys would be brilliant , especially those with real world results to show. Cheers, Ant

Hi, 1. Does the spring loaded sensor mean that it’s not a camera that can be ‘self modified easily’ due to re-alignment issues then? If so that’s brilliant to know thank you! 2. The crop factor myth... I can’t get my head around this... my 6d has a 35.8 x 23.9mm sensor - 20.2mp - (855.62mm2) - 5472 x 3648 take a 600d for example.. 22.3 x 14.9mm Sensor - 18.7mp - ( 332.37mm2 ) - 5184 x 3456 How can a FF sensor not far off the same Mp count as a 4/3 give the same result or ‘quality’ of image if there cropped to the same size? say I take an image with my 6d, crop it down to the size it would come out native on a 600d, there’s got to be more data in the native 600d image than my cropped one or am I going mad!haha! Maths isn’t my strong point! But surely the crop sensor has more pixels per mm2 for its size than the full frame...hence more detail and better once cropped? Also, the pixels are larger on the 6d , 6.54nm compared to 4.3nm on the 600d , I know that’s ‘how’ they cram more in by making them smaller, but in my mind if the pixels are smaller it will give a more detailed/sharper image? ...if both images are the same size, like a piece of A4 paper the one from the 600d would have more ‘information’ than the 6d right?? Its either too late and my brains running on fumes or I should have paid more attention at school but this is something I can’t seem to get my head around! If someone way more knowledgeable than me could please try to sum it up in a paragraph that would be really helpful! As always thanks for the reply’s and taking time to read 👍🏼 Ant

I’ve actually thought about using the 6d and a 135mm Samyang f2, seem some awesome stuff with that lens. Just not really sure about getting the Ha mod/Astro modified if I’m thinking about cooled cameras. I wouldn’t mind taking a punt on a used crop sensor dslr and modding it myself. Pretty handy with that type of thing and I’ve got plenty of time on my hands atm! Open to any and all options really

I think that opens up a whole new question then here...What YouTube channels would be worth swatting up on that do provide the correct and detailed info? I follow Dylan O’Donnell, Trevor/AstroBackyard, Chucks Astrophotography Be great to know some more to check out! The question about my mount...it’s an old but good NEQ-6 pro synscan that I’ll be hooking up to a laptop or considering an asi air...I don’t have either ATM so need to sort something there...maybe even a Pi and stellarmate? Thanks again for all the advice

Thanks for your reply mate The only reason I’m ‘favouring’ a colour camera is that my setup isn’t permanent ...I basically have to go out in my van to dark sky locations and camp overnight, my location at home just isn’t suitable. my thinking was if I go for a 1 shot colour I’d get more data than I would from mono in a shorter time. sure mono produces a better overall image at the end of it all if you have the time to get it but if I have to travel somewhere and only have say 1 clear night a month worse case That unfortunately puts mono on hold for me. id rather get a slightly less quality full image than potentially get only 1/4 of an unusable one if that makes sense! im still very much a beginner so also feel colour is still the way I need to go with this massive learning curve ahead of me!ha! cheers Ant

This is the video that I watched that made me think about moving away from a full frame with the redcat/SpaceCat and use a dedicated camera...around 7min is what I was trying to describe having a smaller sensor gives more ‘zoom’ or closer FOV...