AstroExploring

I own the 72ED but use it with a DSLR currently. You need 55mm backspace between the back of the scope and the camera. The easiest way to achieve this is to buy the field flattener (noting you don't have one yet). You could try a 2 inch t-adapter? That would give you enough spacing, you'll just need the right adapter to then attached your 183. I don't know if such an adapter exists - sorry, I've only ever used a DSLR. Somebody more knowledgeable might know 🙂

11 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

Thats very odd, I take it you tried the grip with just a single battery installed?

Just a thought but looking at the image you uploaded would suggest that issue is in the top right of the camera looking from the back, exactly where the battery contacts are...

Alan

Yes I've also tried it with a single battery. Also checked with just the non-Canon battery to see if that was causing the problem but it doesn't seem to be. As soon as I take the grip off and try either battery straight in the camera the problem goes away.

Interesting thought. Do you think it's excess heat from the grip for some reason? 

12 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

I find this very odd as a battery grip removes the heat generated by the battery from inside the camera so should always improve things, I cant remember an issue with my 650D.

Have to ask how you took your dark frames as light leak through an un covered viewfinder can still cause problems if you just covered the main scope/lens.

Alan

Yep, I find it very odd too! I took my darks at 4am, with everything still setup and the viewfinder covered. I've just done a test in a dark cupboard, with and without the battery grip, and unfortunately the grip is definitely causing the issue but I have no idea why  

26 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

A dummy battery  and external supply is probably the best way to go, you can make your own using a buck converter with 12volt supply regulated to 7 point something volts from memory.

You can always sell the battery grip to a " normal " tog.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I think that's probably the answer but I was hoping to avoid it if possible.

5 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Is the glow in a dark frame? If so then its electronic, if not, a light leak most likely.

Yes the glow is in a dark frame too

Hi all, after a bit of advice...

I've been using my 650D for 2 years in total and had it modified at the start of this year. I've had absolutely no issues with amp glow until this week, when I added a battery grip to allow more imaging time in one night. This is the only thing I've changed in the setup and can only assume it's the culprit. It's the genuine Canon battery grip but one of the batteries isn't. 

Anybody had this issue with battery grips before? I'll be very disappointed to revert back to just one battery. I'd considered a dummy battery with dew heater, but my controller is only 9 months old and I got the battery grip from CameraJungle second hand for £35, which seemed like a bargain. 

edit: I've added an image for info. This is with one curve stretch applied in Photoshop. The glow is in the bottom left, and my images from last night have the exact same issue.

Thanks

Nick

1 hour ago, Wyvernp said:

Hi,

I've used  quite a few of the online print companies.  What are you planning to do with them? I only ask as you might want to consider different print mediums depending how you plan on displaying it.

I want to frame a couple to put them on the wall at home and maybe gift a couple to family. Nothing too big, something like A4 size I think would do nicely 

Hi everyone. I have a couple of images that I'd like to get printed. I don't have a good enough printer to do this at home so I'm looking for recommendations of online printing companies you may have used? Also, it seems 300DPI is the standard for prints, does that also apply to DSO prints?

Thanks

Nick

33 minutes ago, Philip R said:

It is definitely an aircraft trail.

You have the port and starboard navigation lights with a white strobe light, (hence the gap in between), on the wingtips. The yellow one in the middle is the anti-collision light; (top and underside of the fuselage); (they are/appear as red or white strobe light at ground level), and are used when an aircraft is in the aircraft maneuvering area or on a gate/stand of an airfield; so that ground staff are made aware that the aircraft engine(s) are due to startup or are running; or when the aircraft is in flight.  

Ah brilliant thanks so much! I knew it would be either plane or satellite I just hadn’t had a trail look that strange before. 

22 minutes ago, Marvin Jenkins said:

Just wanted to ask what are you imagining? Looks nebulous.

Marv

You are correct. IC1318 Butterfly Nebula, the bright star at the top is Sadr 🙂

I’m used to having trails in my images but this one seems particularly odd with the short red and yellow lines in the middle! Anybody know what it is? 

Today I received a bahtinov mask and the Optolong L-eNhance filter but sadly I can’t use them until next week as they’re a birthday present from the wife 😭

Great idea! “See” you all there 😃🔭

I sent mine to Juan at cheapastrophotography.com a few months ago. He turned it round within a week and if he damages your camera he’ll replace it like for like

Was going to buy the IDAS D2 as my local light pollution is LED lights. Is that the better choice or would this work equally well?

Welcome to SGL. Lots of very knowledgeable people on here who are always willing to help. 
 

Clear skies 

Hey Adam, thanks for the tip. I did download that and use it on my image, worked really well on the cropped version but not so much on the full image. I need to try it out properly but it definitely made a big difference 

First time I’ve ever shot these targets and I’m really pleased with the results. No filters used but I live in class 4 skies so it’s reasonably dark. Same image, I just cropped it to see if I could pull more detail out. 
Far from perfect but I’m really pleased with the result! 
90x 2-minute subs with flats and bias

Thanks for looking

Nick

I’m hoping to be there. It’ll be my first astronomy show so I’m very excited! 

8 hours ago, Nova2000 said:

Hi sorry this is off topic question. Which flattner do you use with the 72ed?didn't wanna start a new thread 

I use the field flattener for the 72ED, which is actually the 80ED FF with an adapter. Got it here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-85x-reducerflattener-for-evostar-72ed-pro.html

5 hours ago, Nerf_Caching said:

Do you use guiding with the star adventurer? I'm asking because you have got the exact same setup as I do, minus the astro-mod to the 650d!

No I don’t use auto guiding. I can do 2 minute subs with this setup with no guiding. I have an HEQ5 for more serious stuff but I don’t actually have any auto guiding equipment at the moment!

Took this of the Orion Nebula a couple of nights ago. Only 60x 1 minute subs as it was a bit windy! Taken with my newly modified 650D and Sky-Watcher 72ED 🔭 

Yes they were unguided, around 2 hours integration time for each image. My post processing is far from perfect but you get the idea 😊

4 hours ago, Nova2000 said:

Hi

Perfect round stars?I'm also interested in this set-up.

Here’s a couple of examples with 2 minute exposures

Have you considered a DSLR with a flip out screen? It’s an absolute lifesaver unless you’re running APT with a laptop. You can get your camera modded from cheapastrophotography.com (I’ve just had mine done) after purchase. Or you can buy a modified camera from him directly. The 1300D is a fine camera and you’ll be able to get some great shots with it 

I use an HEQ5 with 72ED. I generally shoot 2 minute exposures with no guiding but I could easily push that a bit more I think

Welcome Chris! Some fantastic images there, nice work! 

My third imaging session with the Sky-Watcher 72ED did not disappoint! After FINALLY having a clear night for a few hours. Included below is the full image from last night and a cropped image which I could stretch more. Feedback welcome

57x 2-minute exposures

25 darks

30 flats - not sure if these are right. Are my flats causing the gradient across the wider image? 

50 bias