WanderingEye

Here is the link to instructions if you want to try...

https://www.qhyccd.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=30&id=223

Just to answer an earlier question regarding Polemaster, there is a way to get it to work on Astroberry and with a desktop icon too, as it’s been done in the latest Stellarmate version which is also now raspbian based..... can get it to work on AB but only from command line, I can’t get a desktop icon or menu item to work.. 👍😀

10 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

I'm really impressed with the Astroberry server running Kstars with Ekos to control all the gear.

• Sequencing like Sequence Generator Pro
• Guiding using PHD2
• Full control over the ZWO cameras I have - not limited to ZWO gear either unlike the ASIAir.
• Full control of the HEQ5Pro mount
• Parking at the end of your sequence
• Control from a browser/iPad or remote from a multiplatform KStars/Ekos client
• Oh and focusing provision - anxious to try that out with my new Lakeside Focusing system.

Too many other features to mention. What excellent piece of software running in a little tiny box. 

Welcome to the club.... 👍

you are right it is superb, and a real “all in one solution” I have used many packages and this Beats them all hands down....and best of all the software is completely free, just the cost of the Raspberry PI, Micro SD Card and a case... so about £50.. bargain... 👍😀

Ok, so my mount is sealed under a Telegizmo 365 cover with a dew band around running from 12v and on all the time, it keeps the temp under there approx 5-6 degrees above ambient.. it’s airtight under the cover.

Also I have a dessicant pack, one of the ones that you plug in to re charge when saturated, in my case about once a month...

no we know that humidity rises when air gets cold and lowers when air warm us, that much is fact, so can someone please explain these two graphs, one is from a Bluetooth  sensor outside and the other from under the mount cover, as you see the outside one has moved as it should, temp up humidity down and vice versa, but look at the EQ8 graph for the same 24 hour time period, so I can assume it’s something to do with the desiccant, but how and why is it altering science like that.... temp goes up and so does humidity and then temp comes down and so does humidity....I can’t get my head around it, unless it’s something to do with the fact it’s a sealed space, no air in or out...

Oh and yes I have swapped the sensors round to see if one was faulty...

Any ideas...? 🤔🤔

These have been around for a while, William Optics have one the same, they are a Chinese make and just rebranded.... 👍😀

Can’t you just get it milled out a tad at a metalwork shop somewhere, it maybe much cheaper than a new adapter plate...?

7 minutes ago, Jkulin said:

Exactly, I run 12v cables of 2.5mm out about 15m from my leanto shed, then everything connects via waterproof connectors to my pier.

I use Nevada 25-30A power supplies, two cables from each, one to my CEM120EC mount and the other to my Pegasus UPB, and then from the other I run my Laptop and a separate feed to my CEM40EC, they remain out 24/7 and the only time they get moved is when mowing the lawn.

Personally I would never suggest anyone run 240V out to their pier without it being protected in an Obsy, yes you can get water proof sockets and they do work, but as many have said they need a proper earth and RCD.

Can I ask why you don’t power your mount from the UPB...? Am curious

I now leave mu EQ8 under a 365 TG cover (being replaced but that’s another story..)  also I use a wardrobe dessicant dehumidifier and a SCT dew strap, around the centre of the mount, the dew strap keep the temp 5 degrees above ambient, and I also have a mini Temp, humidity and dew point sensor under there that works with an app on my phone, and the humidity ranges from 40% to 75% but never gone above that. But I guess you already know that humidity is temp driven, lower temp means higher humidity and vice versa, as cold air can’t hold as much moisture as warm air, so you need to keep the temp and dew point as far apart as possible, the dew point is the temp the air needs to cool to before dew forms..at that point humidity will be at 100%... 

The dessicant dehumidifier needs re charging about once every month they just plug in for 12 hours and then they are dried out, but you really need to keep the cover as airtight as possible for these to work well, but they do, especially with the extra heat from the dew strap, which is a 24 watt version, and runs 24/7 and costs 6p a day to run....

link to dehumidifiers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RECHARGEABLE-DEHUMIDIFIER-TWIN-CARAVAN-OFFICE/dp/B002SHJRMU/ref=asc_df_B002SHJRMU/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=394229415111&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14199983825550019644&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046174&hvtargid=aud-913148707647:pla-847835145544&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=82243841192&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=394229415111&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14199983825550019644&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046174&hvtargid=aud-913148707647:pla-847835145544

link to humidity, temp and dew point sensor

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MZYPO48/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 hours ago, FLO said:

Mondays are extra busy for most retailers so if you emailed them during the weekend they might need a little longer to find and reply to your email. 

Steve 

Am in touch with Bob now,  and he says it is faulty and seems to be on the ball with getting it sorted.. 👍😀

16 minutes ago, FLO said:

Yours clearly is faulty.

I am confident your supplier will want to send you a replacement. If they are unable to do that then contact Bob at Telegizmos 🙂 

HTH, 

Steve 

Well, I can’t even get a reply back from retailer, so will contact TG direct again.... 👍

14 minutes ago, FLO said:

This is an old discussion so it took me a while to find the info 🙂 

Back in Dec 2018 @Jkulin shared with us the following from an email he received from Bob at Telegizmos: 

"... the seams are sealed without tape. The first step is the inner solar liner is "pulled" into the seams during the sewing process. The second step is the type of thread we use...it's a UV treated nylon that chemically reacts to a sealing chemical that expands the thread to fill any voids left that the solar liner penetration misses. Actually very effective. But oddly, not opaque...as in light can be seen through it. The track record of the 365 Series over the 12+ years they have been produce backs up the success for this process. But...as with all manufactured products...a failure can occur. Your description sounds like the seam(s) has stretched and thus opened."

At FLO we began selling Telegizmos scope covers three years ago. It is the only brand of scope cover we stock. In that period only two have been returned by customers (less than 1% of those we sold) saying the cover had leaked. The first was jkulins (replaced) and the other (refunded) is here in the warehouse waiting for one of us to test it. 

A glued/taped seam is a legitimate (and more affordable) method of preventing leaks but was rejected by Telegizmos because the waterproofing lasts only as long as it takes for the glue to fail. Whereas, when properly designed and manufactured, waterproof stitching will last the lifetime of the product. 

HTH, 

Steve 

Well this is the issue with mine... as you can see the stitching has “missed” the material, gone offline and just left holes...Hence water penetration... also light can be seen all round  the seam, but some places it’s very bright as if the holes are bigger...

But not purchased  from you, I might add.. 👍

9 hours ago, souls33k3r said:

Yeah that's exactly what I thought I'd need but all these super technical stuff has got me even more confused than I started this topic 🤣

I already have an RCD and use that regularly. 

The sockets that I've been looking at are

Just wanted to be sure of the cable really. 

Like I said before, I thought all what I'll need to do is plug in the RCD in to the wall socket in my house, get this outdoor cable and extend it all the way to the pier and on the pier will have the above waterproof socket and that's it. 

That’s exactly what I used... it’s perfect.... 👍😀

3 hours ago, wxsatuser said:

This is where we have to be careful with metal objects buried in the ground and metal appliances outside, especially on a TN-C-S system.

If the supply is TN-C-S, neutral is the earth and the if the neutral gets broken on the supply most likely RCDs will not work
as a balanced current can still flow to earth.

Yes you can get away with it but what happens when a fault occurs, it may be never but......

Main bonding should go right back to the earth entry, yes you could put a rod in but depends on the ground etc.

 

 

It’s not a big metal object buried in the ground, it’s sitting on concrete that is in the ground, it’s a different thing... 👍😀

1 hour ago, souls33k3r said:

I supposed buying a long extension cable sounds far more easier but how would they react to being outside throughout the year? I thought it would've been a simple case of buying a cable, attach a 3 pin plug at one end which will go in to an RCD plugged inside the house, wire up a weatherproof socket and I'll be all done. 

Most of the stuff that is being talked about has gone way over my head

Yes that’s all you need to do, make sure you have waterproof outdoor rated sockets at the pier, and an RCD on the other end, unless like me all the switches on your fuse board are RCBO’s in which case then it’s already RCD protected.... dont over complicate it for yourself, Just make sure it’s safe... 👍😀

2 minutes ago, Jkulin said:

Many years ago I used to own a small company making waterproof gear for the angling market, it didn't take us long to realise that the only true waterproof seam was a taped one, we regularly had companies contact us and say that they had a special thread that when it got wet would swell and seal the holes, similar to what 365 claim, at the time I was sceptical and no competitors went down that road either.

Without taped seams you will see the puncture marks of the needle and my 365 cover leaked like a sieve, I have 3 Telegizmo 365 covers and none of them will I use without a proper taped cover that is breathable over the top.

Needles get exceptionally hot when going through thick material, I had one got straight the tip of my finger and it was that hot it sealed the entry and exit wounds, it could be that Telegizmo are thinking along those lines, but I would be very dubious if they are as plastic can and does melt with the heat of the needles.

The material Telegizmo use if really superb and after all this time there is no sign of any wear.

Since that experience a couple of years ago, my mounts, camera's etc. have been outside and are as dry as a bone every time I take the covers, I just like to take extra precautions.

Thanks for that, well I have to say that the pin holes I can see in mine were before it had gotten a good soaking of water, that has now changes as from today....as it’s not stopped raining all day, ....but I have a cheap waterproof cover under the TG, to protect the mount and the dew heater that is in there...

I just don’t understand why I don’t see holes all the way round...and only in three small places...

I have some tent rubberised Seam sealant which is very good, but don’t want to do anything in case it has to be swapped....

so maybe when I check next the holes will have sealed themselves, I have spoken to TG and they have not mentioned anything about the holes sealing themselves...and just told me that they will sort it out, but no idea of what that means, but should hear from them again tomorrow..

6 minutes ago, souls33k3r said:

OK now this is very interesting. I was led to believe that you would be able to see the light coming through the stitches if you put your head inside of the cover and look at the sun for example but was assured that these holes are covered with (not going to quote because I might have heard wrong or it was something completely different substance) wax or something so it should never leak. 

I just bought mine as well but haven't tested it tbh. 

Please keep us posted @WanderingEye and let us know what it was in the end and the fix if possible. 

I put my head inside the cover and looked out of the window, and it was a dull day, there are three sections about 1” long around the top of the cover, and the light shines through, these holes are stitch holes and are not micro holes as indicated by TG, water pours through them....yes they are small but that’s all it needs, and I certainly don’t trust it... at the end of the day how have they managed to stitch 98% of the cover with no light coming in whatsoever and then 3” where the light shines through, it should be totally sealed from light when looked through from the inside....no light, no water ingress.....simples.... 👍

Anyway I  am in contact with TG themselves so will report back...

On 01/04/2019 at 00:15, Jkulin said:

I know what you are saying Steve but Telegizmo have no excuse for not taping their seams, every single outdoor product clothing or camping company worth their salt should tape them, I've heard so many claims over the years about threads expanding etc. and special waxes and sealants, you can't seal perfectly something that doesn't weld or chemical seal as an overlay of the seam.

When a needle enters material this thick it gets hot, very hot, I have had a needle go right through the nail, and bone and come out the other side and there was no blood, lot of pain and swearing and jumping around on one foot but no blood.

When heat it applied to plastic materials it shrinks away and makes a bigger hole thus relying on the thread that is smaller than the hole to expand and seal, in my professional past experience it doesn't, it needs to be taped.

If there was a magical thread that could chemically bond then why don't all the outdoor clothing manufacturers do that, I suggest that you go into any reputable outdoor clothing company and see if you can find any waterproof garments that aren't taped.

I have over £10K's of equipment sitting out on my pier and I certainly am not going to take another risk with just the telegizmo, thus the reason why I use two covers.

This i no reflection on any company that sells Telegizmo, it is just a matter of fact, seams need to be welded or taped.

I too am having this same issue with a TG 365 cover, and after inspection inside the cover I too can see light through the stitching, in a few places, and am not happy, I have it over my 2k mount fitted tight at the bottom around the pier, with a dew heater and humidity sensor under, and as soon as it raining the humidity rises big time, and after taking the cover off it’s wet inside, so I tested with a hose pointing up and the water falling onto the cover, and yes it pours through the holes where the stitching is, but only in three small places....

on dry days it’s fine and humidity stays below 45%

Am currently in contact with both TG and the supplier... which by the way was not FLO.. 

but If someone can explain to me how a stitched seam with needle holes through the layers of material when they leave holes, is ok and is not supposed to leak, I would love to hear it, I had no idea that these covers were stitched and not taped until it was too late....

Also why is there only holes showing on small sections of the stitching and not all the way round.... All very confusing...

On 04/02/2020 at 11:30, whipdry said:

Did you get the Takahashi EDP Flattener 1.01X for FSQ-85EDX with it? 

If your thinking of using a full frame sensor it's suppose to make it possible, 44mm imaging circle up from 40mm without it.

You certainly have got yourself a bargain with or without the flattener! 

Peter

No flattener...well besides the one built into the scope that is... 😀they started supplying the extra one with the scopes about 12 months ago,  but this one is just under two years old...but there is still a 22mm imaging circle without the extra flattener, and 44mm with, so should be fine with my SXVR H18 camera.. 👍😀

10 minutes ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi mate It's an SPC880 Flashed to 900. Will it make any difference ? 

Here you go try this, I have PM you a link to the driver on my Dropbox... 👍

3 minutes ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi mate It's an SPC880 Flashed to 900. Will it make any difference ? 

If it’s been flashed then the SPC900 windows 7 driver off the Philips website will work fine, with any windows system 👍

On google if you do a search for “Philips SPC900 drivers” it’s the top one on the search results list

5 minutes ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi mate thank you for your reply, still having trouble installing drivers. Frank the Troll sent some but still no luck..

Well I can find on internet...are you sure it is an SPC900 and not an SPC880 as they are identical to look at, but the 880 won’t work unLess flashed with the latest 900 firmware, on any windows after XP...

it should say on the label on the USB cable...

1 hour ago, TerryMcK said:

I bought yet another Raspberry Pi4 the other day. It has a metal case that keeps it cool that I specced from Amazon - iUniker Raspberry Pi 4 Case, Raspberry Pi Case with Heatsink, CNC Metal Case with Heatsink Raspberry Pi Shell without Cooling Fan for Raspberry Pi 4B if you want to get one yourself.

This comes with heat conducting tape that you apply to the CPU, RAM and USB chips. The case then has internal metal blocks which conduct the heat away. I have to say for £13 it is very good. Much better than the Pi4 fan which develops a noise in time. It is also relatively heavy duty case so should work ok strapped/velcroed to the scope.

I also bought a 128GB microSD card. Following Ian's x6gas excellent guide on setting up the Astroberry server I had the scope connected and guiding in under 3 hours of receiving the new Pi4.

I have then been playing around with the included free software. Ekos is excellent and connection to PHD2, My ZWO ASI183MC, HEQ5 was seamless. Then firing up KStars and getting it to slew and then update the Files setting in Ekos to whatever you are pointing at is fantastic.

 

I've only been playing around with it indoors for now. Remote control via VNC or Web-browser is also great. I'm now looking forward to some clear nights to try it out in anger.

 

BTW anybody know if PoleMaster will work with Astroberry? Otherwise I shall have to drag the winders laptop out to polar align (no static observatory here I'm afraid - I do it ala Trevor Jones at astrobackyard.com or Chuck at Chuck's Astophotography)

Hi,

I have been using this software for two years now and it is excellent... I love the “all in one” solution..

Yes the polemaster software does work, but it’s a real pain to install, and I would not recommend unless you are very Linux savy...it is much easier to install on Ubuntu, but as Astroberry is Raspbian it is a pain, I managed it but I have to start the software from the command line... 👍😀

54 minutes ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi, I have a Phillips SPC 900 webcam it's a few yrs. old now but It's very light so ideal for my ETX 125. But I need drivers for it, can anyone tell me where I can download some from, I am waiting to hear from Phillips Support but not holding my breath.  thank you  Colin..

 

As long as it’s a native SPC900 and not an SPC880, then these drivers will work.. Win 7 one is the one you need, 

https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/SPC900NC_00/webcam-with-pixel-plus/support

Edit: although I can see them on my screen the link does not seem to go to the correct page.... 🤔

Just got my dream scope, saw it advertised and was under two years old, 1 owner and in mint condition, unmarked tube and optics, with a load of extras including the Losmandy bar and Paralax rings in the picture... Also the standard camera rotator and extension tubes to fit camera

And the price £1500 😮😮👍