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Limerick John

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Posts posted by Limerick John

  1. 5 hours ago, Phillyo said:

    Ah I thought so. I ended up buying step down rings that screw into the front of the lens to reduce the spikes, but that's personal preference I guess.

    That's an interesting idea. I don't mind the spikes though but I will look into it. If you have a link to the site you got the rings from that would be great.

    • Like 1
  2. 2 minutes ago, Phillyo said:

    Lovely wide image. Was this taken wide open at F2 or stopped down a bit? It looks like there's diffraction spikes on some of the brighter stars.

    It was closed down to F2.8. The spikes are coming from the aperture blades.

  3. I have been having some fun with my Rokinon 135mm F2 lens which I have automated with an EAF using the Astrodynium ring set. It worked first time without any adjustments. This image was captured last month under exceptional seeing/ transparency conditions. It is only 2.5 hours of data in 3 minute frames. I was amazed how much detail I captured in that time. Its worth zooming in on the Astrobin image to see the fine detail. The weather prevented me collecting more data. Captured from Leyburn, Queensland , under Bortle 2 skies (no filters- ZWO 2600 MC Pro camera)

    https://www.astrobin.com/adxhb9/E/

    Orion region 135mm F2.jpg

    • Like 24
  4. Hi

     

    I have a CGE classic mount which is about 16 years old now. It is still working fine and tracks very well. I picked up an AsiAir Plus recently, which I use on an EQ6-R-Pro mount when imaging remotely and I am impressed how easy it makes the set up and imaging process.  I am looking to see if it will work on the CGE mount as it would be transformative. Has anyone tried to do this before? I assume it only connects via the hand controller.

  5. On 07/05/2021 at 10:51, kbrown said:

    I just received mine yesterday. Only been able to test it a little bit visually tonight between the patches of clouds. Here's my initial thoughts:

    • Feels like a solidly built piece of kit.
    • Focuser had some rough spots when going through from one extreme to another. A bit of silicone grease on the rack took care of that. Didn't have to adjust any screws.
    • Was surprised not to be able to focus in enough with my Ascension 2" 90° Dielectric Star Diagonal using any of my 1.25" eye pieces. Had to "shorten" the diagonal by 18mm by printing a new EP holder for it.

    Overall I'm very pleased with it so far. Next time it's clear I'll pop in my ZWO ASI183MC Pro together with my HoTech SCA Field Flattener and capture some images.

     

    Hi. I picked up a new FTL 91 last week and have the same issue getting focus with 1.25" eyepieces. I tried two diagonals, both William Optics but hit the stop just before focus could be achieved. Did this affect getting focus with your ASI camera? I am considering returning the scope to the dealer.

  6. Either of these instruments should work well for wide field astrophotography. You will need a field flattener / extender for reach focus. I use a basic Skywatcher field flattener (can be found under different brand names) which does both and  works well. Your T ring screws on the back of the flattener to attach your camera

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/stellamira-2-field-flattener-with-m48-adapter.html

     

    Check the weight limit on your mount first.

  7. I have the 90mm and 127mm Skywatcher Maks. They are good instruments for the money with very sharp optics. The 127mm is excellent on the moon and planets and is also good for the brighter DSOs. There is a bit of flaring from bright stars just outside the field of view but it is minimal. This is probably due to the baffling. This is my grab and go scope which I have mounted on a Skywatcher AZ4 mount. Replace the diagonal with a decent dielectric and get some plossl eyepieces. I use a 32mm plossl eyepiece to give the widest field of view.

    It just frames the full moon with a crop frame camera which can be attached directly to the back of the scope via a T adapter which screws directly to the provided rear thread.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/7703127@N07/49844940726/in/dateposted-public/

     

    Have a look at an 8" Dobsonian as well- its a great all rounder

    • Like 2
  8. I agree with the advice above. My goto eyepiece for my 12"  F5  Dob is a 27mm Televue Panoptic (which I picked up used). It gives bright sharp to the edge images with a nice wide field of view, perfect for the Orion nebula, double cluster, Pleiades etc.. I don't use anything with a longer focal length than that. Its also my goto eyepiece for my 103mm  F7 refractor.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  9. 20 hours ago, happy-kat said:

    The other option might be the startravel 80mm on the az3 tripod. It's a refractor. You could carry this setup over the shoulder to your observing site. Member @mark81 has many observing reports using his. Link startravel 80mm the heritage does have bigger aperture so it's a weigh up of what might work better for you as the best telescope you have is the one you actually use. I have both telescopes each has it's strengths I love the crisp star fields the ST80 gives but then I saw the shadow of a moon transit on Jupiter with the heritage 130p (with a later bought eyepiece).

     

    The ST80s' are good little scopes, especially for wide field observing, not so great at high magnification though.

    Would you consider a decent pair of binoculars to start with? There a few good makes to choose from.

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pentax-binoculars/pentax-sp-50mm-wp-binoculars.html

    I would still recommend holding off for a 6 or 8" Dobsonian. They would give you so much more flexibility and are great all rounders for an extra 70 bucks.

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-150p-dobsonian.html

     

    • Like 1
  10. This is not a bad combo to consider alongside the Hertitage. A 90mm Mak on an EQ1 mount. It is quite steady and is great for the moon, planets and the sun (with solar filter). You can add a motor drive later and they track quite well. It won't have the aperture of the Heritage or be as good on clusters and nebulae but they punch well above their weight on the solar system objects. Its a small package and no collimation to worry about. You can connect a DSLR directly to the back of the instrument for shots of the moon (see below) and nature photography. The EQ mount can be a bit fiddly to start with but you soon get used to them.

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/skywatcher-skymax-90-eq1.html

     

    If you can stretch a bit further, a 6" Dob is a great all rounder which you won't regret

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-150p-dobsonian.html

     

     

    33650338731_f19eb41e63_k.jpg

    • Like 2
  11. I picked up one of these lights from Princeton Tec two years ago. They are a bit pricey but well made and should last a long time. It has a set of clip down filters that come with it. I leave the red one on permanently. Its a pretty decent headlight for other activities too (fishing etc..) as it has three light levels. I am still using the original AAA batteries that came with it.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000RLM3P2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  12. On 28/11/2019 at 12:52, Jiggy 67 said:

    +1 for the above, the Skyliner 150P is an excellent start and the nature of the way it works will encourage a learning of the skies and how to navigate them. Should come with a couple of stock eyepieces as well.  Easy to setup and not particularly technical 

    Personaly, If you do have a bit of extra budget, I wouldn’t spend it on a 200P I would spend it on

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/turn-left-at-orion-book.html

    This book is a must as it will give you ideas and teach you all the basics. 

     

    Yep, an 8" Dob like the 200P would be ideal if you can push the budget a bit more and will give many years of great views.

  13. The best planetary views I have seen were with my 12" Dob. I found them better than through my 11" SCT, as the cool down period is quicker there are no tube currents. That was from Sydney where the local seeing can be exceptional at times. Back in Ireland with the same scope and the low altitude of the planets it is mostly mushy images with the odd night of average/ decent seeing. I rarely push it beyond 120X.

    Syywatcher scopes are pretty good. What does a star test look like through your scope (in and out of focus). Are there nice concentric rings on both sides of the focus or is it mushy? Make sure the scope is fully cooled down before doing this. use a high powered eyepiece and a green filter if you have one.

  14. I have a SW 127mm Mak and a 103mm doublet. I love the views through both instruments. The refractor gives lovely wide field views but can take some magnification and gives good planetary views. I could spend hours just looking at the Pleiades and Perseus double cluster which are perfectly framed.  The Mak is a moon and planet killer and good general purpose instrument. I use an AZ4 mount for both scopes and swap them around as required.

    • Like 1
  15. I have the Zenithstar 103. It's a nice instrument and gives very pleasing views, especially on wide field stuff. Nice sharp optics. Its a bit more expensive that the others but the fit and finish are very good. I suspect the optics are similar to the other scopes mentioned but in FL53.

    Not mad about the focuser though. I haven't tried any astrophotography with it yet . Like yourself, I got it to complement my 72mm Megrez refractor.

  16. A small refractor such as a 72mm or 80mm ED will work well. There are plenty of choices out there,  they have an easier learning curve and are easier on the mount.

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-evostar-80ed-ds-pro-outfit.html

    https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p4964_TS-Optics-ED-102-mm-f-7-Refractor-Telescope-with-2-5--R-P-focuser.html

    I have seen great results on those short focal length reflectors (F4) that are available at good prices. You need a coma corrector as well  You are looking at the best part of £600 for a 8" scope with corrector. 

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-quattro-f4-imaging-newtonian.html

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-f4-aplanatic-coma-corrector.html

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/coma-correctors/baader-mpcc.html

  17. I have the Zenithstar 103. Its a fine instrument and is fairly light and portable and works fine on a small mount like an AZ4. The focuser is OK but not brilliant.

    For the same price (£1170) I would go for the triplet. They were 1800 euro when I was looking around so that price you quoted  is a great deal. It even cheaper than the 102mm version at the moment. Go for it.

  18. I picked up a 4 inch doublet semi-apo recently and compared it with my 8" SCT. The SCT will always have the edge due to the aperture but for sharpness and nice wide field views the refractor is lovely. If I was on a fixed budget and had to decide between SCT, refractor and a reflector this would be a tougher choice. For the same price you could get say a 4 or 5" doublet apo, an basic 8" SCT ota or a good 12" dobsonian. The dob will blow the other instruments away on practically everything except for the portability. I could never decide what I wanted so I got all three!!😀

     

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