JCAZ

My solution for a finder.  With all the go to, I just feel magnification i't needed, at least up to this point.

So I dremeled one of the bases to my Quickfinder.  Drilled the hole a little bigger, just enough to be snug and still grab.

This will do for now.  I do have a 7X50 bracket from my previous TSA102, but it is green and will not get used on this scope.  Probably will sell it when I get around to it.

Thank you.  I know the difference between Polar alignment and home position.  I just didn't realize people used a level to get home position setup.  THank you again for taking the time to provide information, just makes for a much better experience when learning the mount.

Ironically I have had this mount since 2016, probably used it twice.  But now that I am back in Arizona astronomy is really becoming a hobby I enjoy once again.  And, I have also been a star hopper, so this goto stuff is pretty new for me.

Many thanks,

john

6 hours ago, Astro Dad said:

try a spirit level on the counter weight bar to know your orientation then adjust polar scope to suit.

 

depends on your intentions, if imaging and how long an exposure. The polar scope is only vaguely acurate for a decent PA to do imaging a polemaster or the ASI air are two ways to get your PA down to a few arc seconds

Could you explain a little further.  I used a spirit level on the accessory try to level the mount.  How would a level on the counter weight shaft assist in polar alignment?  Never heard that one before.

Surprisingly, my mount did track pretty well at high powers, but Polaris moved off the circle, so I knew something was wrong.

All in all it was a pretty good night.  I did manage to turn down the brightness on the polar scope, did a one star alignment which actually proved to be pretty accurate.  Scope slewed from the moon near the horizon to directly over head to view Alberio and put the double star in a 30 Paragon.  All things considered, that was pretty impressive.

Given the assistance here, I think it will improve.  I must say, I am pretty impressed by the HEQ5, but I have not done any imaging.

2 minutes ago, almcl said:

For an accurate Polar Alignment the reticule should be positioned with 0 at the top.  It is very unlikely, however, that the polar scope will be oriented so that this is the case in the home position.  Instead, rotate the RA axis until 6 is at the bottom and 0 is at the top.  This won't affect the accuracy of the polar alignment but for accurate Gotos, move the counterweight  shaft back to straight down after you have polar aligned (and the DEC axis back its position as well).

If you want to orient the reticule so that 0 is up with the home position, it is possible by removing the scope (it unscrews) and then undoing the  lenses and rotating the reticule but I found this very fiddly and never did achieve a completely accurate orientation.  But for an accurate polar alignment, it is not necessary.

Thank you for taking the time to respond, very helpful.

john

Holy smokes - that is an absolutely stunning set up.  I hope you get many  hours under the stars.  Man, I can only imagine the views.  Make sure to report back as you begin to use it.

john

Thank you very much.  That helps.  One other question, if I might - Should the reticle be oriented with 0 at noon, with the telescope in the home position (essentially counter weight shaft down)?

Thank you again, much appreciated.

Can someone tell me what the polar scope in an HEQ5 is suppose to look like.  The only constellation in mine is Octans, seems like that would be a southern polar scope not northern.  I bought the mount in Canada, so I would think that would be odd.  Also, I thought I remember them coming up with some kind of "uni" version.  IN any case, seems like a southern reticle to me.

Any help appreciated,

john

2 hours ago, StarryEyed said:

congratulations! 

Thank you.  So often my brilliance goes unappreciated.  After all, you can't take your temperature with an oven thermometer.

There is no unneccessary or necessary, there is only movement. - Yoda

Actually videos show scope pointing toward the clamp.  Sooooooooooooo, some user error there, I do believe.

Finally got the scope out and had a look around.  Air was quite unstable but views we fairly pleasing.

Looked at the moon at various magnifications: 13mm NT6, 8.5 Pentax XF, and Nagler zoom.  Views were crisp even in mediocre seeing, which was a rapid shallow boil.  Contrast was obviously very good.

Jupiter was tougher but Great Red Spot was easy, even at lower mags.  There was a large dark barge in the Northern Equatorial Belt that was also very prominent.  I also managed to catch a moon emerging from the edge of Jupiter, pretty good given the seeing. 

All and all a decent quick look but any real test of the optics will require considerably better seeing.  Still, color saturation was very good on Jupiter with browns/maroons, tans, whites, blue/grays, especially for a 4". 

The mount on the other hand was a challenge.  I did not do an actual alignment and instead just swung around to the moon.  I did select the moon and GoTo and the mount pointed at the ground and swung around, at least in the right direction.  Vibrations were intrusive with legs extended 2/3 of the way towards full.  The Tak focuser was smooth, but stiff, that did not help any.  I will need to spend more time with the mount to see if I can do a real set up.

Which by the way, which way is the dam scope suppose to point, away from the AZ clamp or toward it.  Videos I have seen seems to indicate the opposite direction from the clamp.  It would have been nice if they provided some level of instruction on how to actually use the mount - what a novel concept.

In the end I hope it will be fine with a bit of experience, I do think a Tak dual speed focuser add on and a new tripod may be in order.  I do have a nice wooden tripod, but it has an odd top with a large center opening surrounded by much smaller openings around it.  I also have vibration pads, but that kinda kills the quick look.  Also, tracking was awful, but without a proper alignment don't know if that was just from improper setup.  Oh, and I was using my phone  to control the mount and a AC adapter (not batteries).  

That's it for first look.  Bit of a mixed bag,most of which I hope to sort out over time.  Also, as a side note, got my big yellow Pelican Air (1615), looks like a great fit (scope, clap, and rail) with room for a diagonal and some other extras.

Take care,

john

So this is what I received from Texas Nautical. They are the distributor for Takahashi in all of North and South America.  If anyone can find out anything, from an authoritative source, that differs, or elaborates on this, please post it.  I have another feeler out, will see if that brings anything further.

"The serial number that starts with 1D stands for 2019. It has something to do with  
the new era in Japanese imperial transition of 2019
Not easy to understand. Last 3 numbers stand for the number of scopes produced. Please let us know if you have more questions."

Looking like tonight will be clear and there is a crescent moon low in the west.  Will see what I can get a look at and try and post something over the next day or two.

Thank you,  john

Picked up a Pelican 1615 with plucked foam.  Chose a nice subtle color!

Been cloudy all weekend, but cleared a bit last night.  Hopefully I can get scope out tonight for a bit.

4 hours ago, william123 said:

 

Clearly, we are now in the first year of Naruhito's reign, which began only last May.  However, what is the "D" for in your serial number?  And what was the "C" for in my serial number?  I strongly suspect that your scope was planned or authorized or started production in the first year of the fourth ("D") decade of Akihito's reign.  That theory explains the most.  

Remember, if you received your scope recently, it must have left the "factory" in Japan in June or July (or even earlier), not long after Naruhito started his reign.  It might actually have been manufactured -- or the serial number plate itself manufactured -- before Naruhito started his reign.  The scope might even have been sitting in a warehouse for a while before shipment.

I don't necessarily disagree.  I would like to find out from an authoritative source, and I will.

Thanks for the feedback.

Based on what Texas Nautical told me it the first year of Emperor Naruhito's dynasty . I suppose further research may be required.  Even if you're wrong, it was a fine effort.

What's interesting is that they have started to base their serial numbers on the reign of an emperor.

1 hour ago, John said:

My DL serial number begins 8C which apparently means 2016.

I wonder if it was also tied to an emperor.  If logic holds their dynasty lasted eight years.  Should be easy to check,  since the guy in place now has been emperor 1 year (2019), then the one who preceded him would have been emperor for eight years.

50 minutes ago, John said:

Well done for decoding the Tak serial number. It took me quite a while to work out how the year code worked with mine.

I guess with a new design 2019 was likely to be the answer !

I wonder what the total production run of the DZ will be ?

Ya, I figured it was  2019, but how do you get that from 1D? Now I know.

O.K, here's one for the water cooler - impress your friends.

My scope serial number is 1D013.  Well, my scope is the 13th one ever made - so I get lucky thirteen.  So how about 1D ,well, this indicates the scope was made during the first year of Emperor Naruhito's reign, which happens to be 2019.  Gotta luv the Japanese.

3 hours ago, AdeKing said:

You'll need the Skywatcher Synscan AZ cable to use the handset with the AZ Gti. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/sky-watcher-az-goto-synscan-handset-cable.html

I use one with my V4 handset from my EQ5 with this cable without any problems. 

Wow.  Thank you so much for that, much appreciated.

43 minutes ago, jock1958 said:

Superb scope and love the retractable dew shield, wish my 100DL had one! 

Apparently the Japanese in the home market don't care about retractable dew shield.  But a DL is a sweet scope.  I'm sure the views are superb!

43 minutes ago, dweller25 said:

Very nice scope 👍

Thank you.  Looking forward to many nights under the stars.

Scope on AZ GTI.  Scope, 2" Televue diagonal, tube holder, rail total 11.6 lbs.  I don't have any big eyepieces, my 2" is a Paragon 30, so I think for quick looks this should work.  Slews in the house seems effortless, we'll see how it does under the sky.   I  think I will use the HEQ5 counter weight as ballast on the accessory tray, seems to add some good heft without as lot of bulk.

I also have an HEQ5, so that will definitely hold this scope well.  And I have a small wooden tripod I am going to see if I can get set up.  

So I guess that's it until I get some clear skies.

Side note the HEQ5 hand controller does not work stock with AZ GTI.  Cable for controller is 8 pin (for EQ mounts), Az GTI is 6 pin for alt az.  Controller does have another 6 pin port so I may try and  picking up a cable and see if it works.  Been using my phone with app for testing.

PS - I also adjusted the scope a bit  after this pic, scope back and rail forward - clears focusing knob better.

Take care,

john

3 hours ago, John said:

Very, very nice

Thanks for posting the photos - these are the 1st non-stock pics that I've seen of one.

As the owner of a Tak FC-100DL, I'm very much looking forward to reading your performence reports on this scope

Should be interesting.  I like Tak as a brand, haven't had one in a while.  Just moved back to AZ and some really dark skies, so hopefully figure on the lens is good.

Weight 8.4 ibs - digital bathroom scale.

Length  from end of dew shield (retracted) to the end the blue part of the focuser, just under 23 1/2".  Dew Shield extended 26 1/4".

My apologies for non-metric specs.

Focuser is buttery smooth.  Unfortunately, looks like a cloudy night ahead.

Lens