masjstovel

2 minutes ago, Rustang said:

Hi, I had the Hitec Astro direct cable, it didn't work because the USB software was out of date/not compatible anymore! I had the same message on my computer saying contact supplier etc so I got the new version cable from Flow and all is good 👍

Yes i know, but i found i go-around to make it work. It was a recipe somewhere on the web, but i dont remember how. If it did not work after i downloaded Ascom v6.5 i would understand, but it DID work a couple of sessions with the newest version and now suddenly it doesnt. But am i interpereting it correct when i say its connection to my computer because of that Pl2303HXA text? 

I did comms diagnostics yes, but couldnt connect.

The looping trick, im not quite sure i understand?

1 hour ago, Jpr78 said:

Edit, just saw that you tried switching ports on the hub. You should have your baud set to 115200 In EQmod. This will hopefully solve your issue. You will also need to set that rate in your USB/COM port setting for the port you are using.

I tried that with no luck. changed in control panel on PC and in EQmod... Starting to think the cable is defect?

Hi,

Trying to start up my mount through PC as i have always done without problems, but now i cant anymore, getting the error message shown above. As far as i can see i havent done anything i didnt do earlier when it worked fine. I did download latest version of ASCOM, EQMOD and all a while back, and SGP couldnt find my guidecam, but i sorted that at the time.

I have a HitecAstro EQdir cable to my EQ6 with that serial port on the mount end. I have a StarTech USB-hub, which my ASI120mm and ASI1600mm is connected to, and the EQ6 mount. (EAF and EFW goes via the ASI1600) This  hub goes to the computer via an active/repeater USB cable. The mount poweres up when turning it on, and the light indicator for the port on the usb-hub is lit. I've tried changing ports, but still the same. Settings are as shown on photos below (except its usually port 5, but it cant find it when i search for it and therefore goes to port 16). 

Ive tried turning off and on mount, USB-hub, USB's, power supply (1 for everything on) and computer. I've tried different ports on hub for the mount USB. 

What more can i do?

That "PL2303HXA phased out" message have always been there, but i followed a go-around recipe when i got the cable and it worked after that

On 22/09/2020 at 03:01, Seelive said:

Finished for the night. The white tube section length is 107mm and 56.0mm diameter.

Is the 107mm part clean for obstructions? Im thinking for printing the clampshell. Is there a screwhead or something obstructing the intended clamp?

Thanks alot @Seelive!!

Hi,

I'm wondering if any owners here could provide me exact outer diameter and length of the white "part" of the guidescope?
I need these measurements to build a 3D-printed clamp-shell. 

 

The 2mm is T2-male thread - 2mm spacer - T2-male thread

Ah ok, i see. I was thinking at it the wrong way.
Well i have adaptors that will get me to 55,5mm. (6,5mm camera, 20mm FWH, 16mm OAG, 2mm T2/T2 and 11mm extender) It needs to be more accurate than that? 

Thanks @vlaiv, good to know.
Well i didn't really consider OAG yet. There's some downsides to it i've heard, like vignetting, and as you say backfocus, especially on a newtonian.
Also, besides weight - what errors do you eliminate with OAG in relation to a guidecope? movement in the "guiding-train" (guidescope/camera/adaptors) only? 

I have my point of focus at ~85mm from tube. I've just changed to Baader Diamond Steeltrack focuser. It is minimal height 81mm with Clicklock clamp attached (which i love).
It has 40mm drawtube travel. I dont know if this is better or worse in relation to the stock PDS focuser?
I dont understand the backfocus issue with OAG- is it that you cant get far enough IN or that you cant get far enough OUT? 

@vlaiv
I've been looking at the SW EvoGuide 50 ED as guidescope. This has 242mm focal length (50mm = f/4.8) and would give me a resolution of 3.2"/pixel with the ASI120MM mini.
Maybe the way to go? Or any objections before i order?

In all truth its a couple of weeks ago, so not something i did TODAY, but:

Was going to do the EQ Rail kit mod to my EQ6, and it turned out the shim for easing the movement of wedge altitude was crushed a bit up in the mechanics.
So i found out that a Pringles-lid shares the same thickness exactly, and about the same stiffness so i made a new one out of it and it worked as a dream:)

Guys... Im speechless! 
Thank you so much! I'm truly amazed you could figure that it was a too loose belt that did it! 
Theres been alot of blood and sweat and tons of frustration for 8 months or so since i did the beltmod and now finally i start seeing some fruits grow. 
Again, thanks alot! 

Well what does it say on the sticker underneath the focuser?

Lovely! Thanks alot @vlaiv, @kens and @wimvb! Looking forward to check RA-performance after this. First un-PEC'ed then with PEC. Will post the results if interested!

Thanks again @vlaiv.
There are no encoders and no PPEC. So does it matter if i use "Park to home position" in EQmod, or unclutch-clutch? 

I feel i need some more experience to do the PHD2 version of PEC. 
Will the PEC upload itself automatically when i start a new session in EQmod? 
I assume i can "delete" or disable the PEC curve from EQmod if not wanting to use it, or changing to PHD2 PEC ?
 

No grinding! Puh!

Thanx  alot @vlaiv! I will look for a guidescope that suits! I did now tighten the RA motor. Its tight with sausagefingers between motor and casing, so i used a flat screwdriver in between and pushed it lightly further out. There was some room made so i think you guys might be correct in what youre saying. Just afraid it will be too tight and make the motors grind, but we will see. I felt it was a "handtight pressure" i made with the screwdriver. 

As for PEC I meant in general as it peaks 20+++ in a worm period. This is better in EQmod than in PHD2? Does EQmod take in consideration the guiding corrections or should i guide uncorrected when recording EQmod PEC?

@vlaiv, Its different on EQ6 than HEQ5, as the belts are "hidden" underneath the motors. I used my phone and pushed downside the motor when i installed the belts aligning to  the cogs and still i didnt get a great view.
I will try to push it with greater force and see. 

@kens thanks alot. Ive seen the graph before and wondered what to get out from it but that actually explains it for me! 

Will try PEC to im thinking. Is it best done trough EQMOD panel or via PHD2 ?
Do i understand correct out from what you guys are saying, that i need a bigger guidescope?

13 minutes ago, wimvb said:

 

You have to increase the distance from the motor pulley to the worm gear pulley.this stretches the belt a little, making it tighter. In a belt modded HEQ5, I did this by loosening the motor  hex bolts just a little, and pushing the motor away from the worm pulley, at the same time tightening the bolts again. Mounts which have belt drives, have belt tightening screws in place.

The 10.2 s peak shows when you do frequency analysis of the ra guide data. Use phd log viewer for this.

Thank you. I think i was unclear. I did the beltmod myself, but what i mean is.. What is "tight". I thought i tightened the belts enough when installing the belts, but maybe not after all.

Like how tight? I understand its hard to describe, but handtight or tight with use of tools? How much force? 

@kens Ah thank you. I have PHD Log viewer, but Im not good in analyzing it, unfortunately Frequency response means the you can see the highest deviation from 0" arcminutes? 

@wimvb Thanksm. Probably your right. I have been stable at 0.75" though, still with the oscillating. 

@kens & @vlaiv Thanks! Where can i see this 10.2 number? So i presume it needs tightening. What is "thight" in this matter? I pushed my fingers in between the motor and the housing with what i would call "moderate force". How much can i push this before it is too tight and makes the gears grind? Would hand-tight do with some more force, or should i use the crowbar methos with a screwdriver etc? 

What guidescope would you recommend? 

Hi,

I have an RA guiding problem thats bothering me. 

It oscillates up and down ~2 arcseconds for every correction. Ive tried fiddling about with the agressiveness and min/mo settings etc, but it doesnt change. I use 0.9 guidespeed in EQMOD. I've tried changing RA only to 0.5 and upwards, but doesnt seem to better itself.  Its a beltmodded EQ6. Ive done the Guiding assistant many times and tried applying the suggested settings. Got a screendump and log file attached. The logfile in its whole isnt the best, but the photo shows the problem ive had for many sessions over time now.  Can provide other logfiles if necessary. The yellow (upper line) is starmass, and the white is SNR. I have had the problem for a long time now, so i dont believe its just related to seeing.

Can anyone help?

https://openphdguiding.org/logs/dl/PHD2_logs_cp6m.zip

I've now installed the focuser. The tape-method for the new holes worked perfectly. I couldnt wait for the shims, so i got a friend to 3D-print some, Had him print even more so now the base center is flush with the tube.
Now, it turned out the default hole for the PDS focuser was pretty huge. 
Also i dont quite understand the patent of the base, since its flat on a curved shape (telescope). 
As you can see on the pictures, there is quite some room (picture #4 is with focuser attached) underneath the base for light to sneak in. This cant be good, or wouldnt it matter? Light can sneak in sideways, but if i imagine i sit on the secondary mirror and look up towards the focuser, its covered, sort of like inside of a house where there are windows but a roof - in lack of a better example....  

Hi, I had the EQ5 Goto. I am have a 150PDS, so smaller than yours. I was heartbroken with the cost of this hobby when i started with it - I therefore bought the EQ5 intead of something bigger. 6 months or so later i sold the EQ5 and bought a EQ6 instead. If i were you I would , I would pay the exrtra  bucks and buy the EQ6-R or Az-EQ6. The EQ5 will be to small.

 

On 12/04/2020 at 02:41, malc-c said:

 

The mount is belt driven (I was messing about with belt conversions in 2011, and effectively proved the concept before Dave from Rowans used his CNC to make the kits we see in the shops).  The ratio is 4:1 and this has been selected in the "driver" set up (but will confirm tomorrow).  PA was done using Sharpcap as shown above.  Once the first target was synced in CdC goto's have been spot on (from park to star two nights in a row).  If the belts were slipping (which they are not) or the ratio was out then Goto would be way out.

 

Hi, 
just wondering; ratio 4:1 driver setup? 
I've belt modded my EQ6, but havent changed any mount-settings in EQmod. should i? how? and to what?