KP82

Agreed with what have bee said above. I had an AZ5 3 years ago and a 4" f/7 was the max I'd put on it even with the SW 1.75" steel tripod.

Saw that this morning. Some of the shots are really stunning whereas there are a couple which IMHO are overprocessed (I guess everyone has different tastes).

23 hours ago, callisto said:

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread, just a quick question,

I've just acquired a ipolar for my SGP...I'm only using my 200mm + 135mm lenses, so do I really need to attach my guide scope & cam?

Thanks,

Mark

*sorry, what I'm getting at is with my set up is it worth having a guide scope/cam at all?*

It really depends on the imaging scale rather than only the focal length. But assuming you're using a standard APS-C or FF DSLR with those two lenses, and your mount is well balanced with minimal backlash and fixed PE, guiding isn't necessary.

The reason you couldn't see any details on Jupiter was probably because the primary mirror of your 152/750 was spherical. A spherical newt at f/5 is not going to be able to produce any sharp and contrasty views. And less than perfect collimation would make it even worse.

If that dealer you mentioned has any parabolic mirror in stock, I'd say go for that. Then try to source the other necessary components to build your own dob.

My answers to your questions:

1. I used to have an IDAS D2 LPF designed to suppress LED lights. It didn't help much but instead cast a strong green/blue hue to all my images. So I sold it. IMHO for OSC you shoot with either dual/tri-band filters for emission nebulae or no filter at all for broadband targets (FYI I live in a Bortle 5 area).

2. Yes that's the correct size for your 4" scopes. I've got the Astrozap straps for 4" - 5" scopes. It's a bit longer than required for my 4.5" but still works fine.

3. Your connection setup should work fine with the default Skywatcher ASCOM driver. Upgrading both the ASCOM driver and the firmware of the handset may help. I used to do the same until I switched to EQMOD (http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/eqaindex.html). The EQMOD is the preferred choice for Skywatcher mounts, so you may want to experiement with it before your trip to dark sites. You will need the EQDIR cable for it (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq5-pro-heq5-syntrek-pro-az-eq5-gt-az-eq6-gt-and-eq8-mounts.html).

4. Your WO 72 should be fine. I wouldn't worry about upgrade.

13 hours ago, CoffeeEmerald said:

Thank you for all of your detailed responses they have been very helpful!

I will be looking into the Dobsonian mount this weekend.

6" and 8" dobs are the most popular choices for beginners. Unfortunately they are out of stock almost everywhere. You best chance would be in the used market.

26 minutes ago, StuartT said:

I find the battery in my EOS750D tends to run down when I am taking sequences of subs. Does anyone know if it's possible to rig up some kind of mains power to the camera so I don't have to worry about it?

 

You need one of the dummy batteries linked above plus a 8V DC power supply. The 8V output can be found on dedicated powerbox such as the ones made by Pegasus Astro or Hitec Astro, dew controller like the ones made by Lynx Astro or DIY.

Not a fan of this sliding up/down eyeguard design of my Delos either. I'd much prefer the twist up/down type of the Pentax XW or the basic simple rubber fold down type on the ES and Morpheus.

52 minutes ago, GoldTop57 said:

What's the consensus on 2nd hand cooled cameras? I've noticed a few where the cooling systems have failed and have been repaired, I understand the warranties are not transferable.

As long as the sensor chamber hasn't been tampered with and there is no scratch or crack on the sensor window, the camera should be fine. As for the TEC cooling system, you can always ask the seller to demonstrate its function either in person or in a video clip to verify its condition. To prevent damage and prolong the life the TEC cooler, you should always avoid rapid cooling and warming.

The 120ED is already very good optically, I doubt you would be able to see any "great" improvement from those 3 scopes you listed. Improvements will be there but whether they are worth 5000 euros or not is up to you. Honestly at this level the only major improvement I could think of would be bigger apertures for more light and resolution. But to get a noticeable difference compared to 120mm, I'd say 6" is the minimum (152mm f/8).

Skywatcher Esprits are highly regarded by many astrophotographers, so I wouldn't dimiss those Chinese triplets so quickly (I love my APM107 which is another triplet made in China).

No direct experience with any of these 3 scopes. But if you were asking me to choose between Tak quality and more apertures purely for visual, I'd go for more aperture, in this case the TS 125.

I've looked through a Tak FC100DC and Vixen ED115 before so I'm aware of the high quality views these Japanese doublets can produce. But compared to my own Sharpstar made APM107, there is virtually no difference. Yes they cool down faster than my triplet, but only by a small margin.

18 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

This is all possible, but you will need the eyesight of a hawk to PA with EKOS from a phone screen….😮😮 which I certainly don’t have….🤨

No, you don't need a super sharp eyesight. You can zoom in while doing PA in Ekos. I do that quite often with my home made electronic finder for visual use (made of pi4 + pi hq camera + 9x50 finder + a gpio button + some self written python scripts).

5 hours ago, AstroNebulee said:

Hi

Thank you to both of you, it does sound like the dslr way of PA is possible but a longer drawn out option. I could use my asi120mc-s, but would have to be in the scope and then when PA done swap it over to the dslr as this is how I like to take my images, the trouble then bring balancing the scope again wouldn't it then my PA would probably be off. One other option is to get an attachment for my asi120mc-s to turn it into a method of Polar aligning and fo that with the pi4. If sharpcap allows PA with a dslr now that could be an option. But means taking a laptop out with me, hmmm lots of things to research, thank you again 👍

Do you guide while imaging? If yes, you could PA with your guidescope and asi120. Use your phone to VNC into astroberry then run the PA assistant in Ekos. No laptop required.

Otherwise you could balance your setup with the DSLR and then swap for the asi120 just for PA. A slight imbalance during PA isn't a big issue.

Noticed a few gaps in the clouds, so quickly set up my 72EDF on the Scopetech. Finally managed to catch a sight of the sun during the greatest eclipse (11:01 - 11:20). There were quite a few tiny sun spots near the edge of the Moon.

Full cloud cover here. No eclipse for me today.

Already many M101, but still here is my entry:

Date: 14/04/2021

Bortle 5 sky

Equipment: Canon 600D modded, APM-LZOS 115 f/7, Riccardi 0.75x M63 FR/FF, SW AZ-EQ6 Pro, SW Evoguide 50ED + ASI120MM guiding

Lights: 156 x 100sec

Calibration frames: 15 Darks, 15 Flats & 15 Bias

Dither: every 3 frames

Software: BYEOS, PHD2, DSS & PS CS 2021

What about guiding?

As far as I can see the OP has pretty much covered everything needed to begin imaging. 80ED is a good starting point to experiment with various techniques and gears. Guiding is a must if he wants to get serious with imaging (unless he plans to get one of those premium mounts with absolute encoders).

So I'd suggest he spends the money on a 50 - 60mm guidescope plus an ASI290MM (works better with an OAG than 120 if he images with the 8" SCT). The rest could be spent on some sort of remote control of the imaging rig (laptop, compute stick or pi).

For imaging, there is RASA that fits your short FL SCT requirement. Technically it isn't an SCT as it only borrows the schmidt corrector and the spherical mirror from the SCT but not the folded light path.

As for visual afaik such fast instruments (f/2 - f/3) only exist in the form of custom made newtonians (large dobs).

I had one about 2 years ago. Used it a lot during Christmas 2018 and sold it 4 months later.

The build quality was very good. The scope was light and compact, worked nicely on a SW AZ Pronto for widefield sweeping. I didn't bother getting any tube rings and used the built-in dovetail bar. But I did make a couple of other upgrades: the 1:10 micro focus knob and a standard synta compatible findershoe (the baader universal one).

According to someone from Bresser, the optics contain an unknown ED glass to tame the CA. In actual use the CA is probably on the same level as the other short tube refractors. So if you're already used to your ST80 and ST120, you will be familiar with the kind of views this one produces. I used it primarily for open clusters. With a bit of filtering, it also did fine on the Moon. The max mag I could crank out of it was about 92x (w/ a BST 5mm). Anything more the CA would become overwhelming and start to destroy details (basically I could not acquire a sharp focus anymore). So this is not the scope to get for planets or doubles.

9 hours ago, Tiny Clanger said:

If you decide you would like to buy a telescope, consider how easy it will be to get to the roof : a 10" dobsonian or a 6" SCT  is a heavy thing to carry around, I just checked and a 6" Celestron SCT is reputedly about 30lbs , and I know (because I have discounted being able to carry one myself , even in two pieces) that a 10" dobsdonian is over double that , e,g, https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bresser-telescopes/bresser-messier-10-dobsonian-telescope.html

While a 10" dob could be a chore to take up to the rooftop, I wouldn't dismiss a 6" SCT/Mak so quickly. The 30lbs you saw was most likely the figure for the whole setup including the mount. The OP can get a 6" OTA on its own and pair that with an alt-az mount.

On 12/05/2021 at 19:19, Yubo said:

Hi all!

I'm looking for a mount as I recently purchase a 80mm refractor. Want to do some astrophotographing when traveling outside big city. Therefore I'm trying to find a mount that can handle the load (refractor + camera is round 4kg) and has some fancy "high tech" stuff like controllable via APP and auto guiding etc..

I did some googling and only found Explore Scientific iEXOS 100 which seems to be the most suitable one but can't find any stocks in the UK. So I want to know if there are other choices around. What's your suggestion? Update: budget is around £600-£800.

Clear Sky!

Yubo

As I've got the iEXOS-100, I thought I'd share some of my experience with you:

• The mount is fairly light, but the build quality is good. It shares the same stepper motors, bearings and worms as the bigger EXOS2 according to info on PMC8 Groups.io
• Because of the similarity to its bigger brother, it has the potential to take on more payload than the advertised spec, but not in its default configuration. You will need the fine-az adjustment base, ST2 or ST3 heavy duty tripod and more counterweights in order to do so. These quickly add to its cost and the whole package will be about the same as SW EQM35
• Unlike many budget GEMs, it allows you to replace the default saddle with a better quality one (e.g. ADM)
• Lack of built-in polar scope (there is only a polar boresight), but if you're going to use any electronic PA, this isn't going to be an issue
• No PPEC currently
• The PMC8 controller is programmable and with the latest firmware you can change many internal parameters of the mount although the default values should work for most people
• No hand controller, so you have to use a pc/rpi/tablet to control it. It has full ASCOM and INDI support, so imaging with either Windows PC or Linux/RPi will be fine. For visual you can use either the ExploreStars app on your tablet or some self made custom solution which is what I do.

For DSOs especially galaxies and globulars, there is no contest between large dobs and any readily available refractors (6" or less). Even my mere 8" will do better let alone a 12".

However sky quality from where you observe is also important. For example if you observe from your garden in the middle of a big city, the benefit of the larger aperture will be limited. One of the advantages of a 4 - 5" refractor is that you can easily take it to dark sites and they will show better results than a 10 - 12" in a severely lighth polluted garden. But if you live in a Bortle 4 or darker rural area, getting the dob is a no brainer.

15 hours ago, MKHACHFE said:

That's quite a large difference in price from a 600d to a 294MC. 😃

Even though I'm still a relative newbie to AP, I would not recommend anyone start out by forking over almost a grand on an camera.

The cost of the ZWO cameras have gone up after the recent price increase. The 294MC Pro was only about £850 before the rise and the Altair version was even cheaper. The price gap between a decent modded DSLR and the 294MC wasn't as big as it is now. Hence why I said I'd go for the astro camera if I didn't have a used 600D lying around.

15 minutes ago, IB20 said:

Yep! Delivered from FLO via DHL about 2 hours ago and an absolute cinch to set up. First impressions are nicely surprised by the sturdiness of the tripod and the beautiful simplicity of the Az-Alt mount. The OTA is really light and not unwieldy like I thought it might be; the whole set-up must weigh somewhere between 6-7kg, which I'm delighted about. Everything bar the spreader and accessory tray is metal, again a nice surprise considering I was looking at the Vixen A80mf before I clocked that FLO stocked the Starbase 80 set-up. I'll get a first light report up as soon as I can (fingers crossed tonight) but very happy so far. Looks the dogs' danglies too.

Thanks for the detailed description. Looking forward to your first light report.

BTW is it possible to attach a saddle to that alt-az mount so that it can be used with other light-weight scopes?

6 minutes ago, IB20 said:

I am now a proud frac owner! 😃

Is that the fully japanese made Tak sponsored 80mm achro? I remember I've seen it on CN. How are the views?