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KP82

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About KP82

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  1. Both are about the same (EQ6 class) and should have absolutely no issue coping with a C8 + imaging equipment. CEM40 can be ordered without iPolar (clone of Polemaster from iOptron) whereas GEM45 comes with iPolar by default. GEM45 is a more traditional German Equatorial with a slightly higher payload capacity (20kg vs 18kg) than the CEM40. iOptron claim the centre balanced design spreads the load more evenly along the RA axis improving the stability compared to the traditional design which has all the payload + counterweights hanging off one end of the RA axis. Since most iOptron mounts are ve
  2. I actually contemplated getting an OOUK VX8L 1/10 when I was shopping for my dob. In the end the mixed reports on the web regarding OOUK made me decide to go with the far cheaper but more popular SW 200P dob. If you have an existing dob which you can replace its mirror or have the skill to make your own tube, you could order one of the Zambuto newtonian mirrors which are truely high quality.
  3. I've used both Pi4 + astroberry and a custom built ITX mini-PC running W10. For the price, you cannot beat a Pi4. But in the end I settled for the mini-PC as I preferred the interface of BYEOS to Ekos (also partly because I don't want my BYEOS license to go waste). I still have my pi4 + astroberry and modified them into a plate solve based finder for my visual setup.
  4. That Samyang 14mm f/2.8 does not support front screw-in filter, so your best bet would probably be this: https://www.wexphotovideo.com/stc-clip-uv-ir-cut-615nm-filter-for-nikon-aps-c-1725795/
  5. Altair Sabre or TS Optics Giro Ercole would also be good choices if you don't require slow motion control.
  6. As said above, there is no "overkill" for a mount. A HEQ5 is a solid starting point into DSO imaging. Those telephoto lenses you've already got are certainly a good place to start. A focal length between 200mm and 400mm is ideal for wide field DSO imaging especially for some larger targets (e.g. M31, M45, NA nebula, Veil, Heart, etc.). You can familiarise yourself with the capture software, autoguiding and the post processing routines while keeping the equipment simple. Your camera lenses will show more image distortions than a telescope + a corrector, but most of them can be corrected i
  7. If you main focus is the Moon and planets, indeed a SCT or Mak will be the most sensible choice. However since you've also mentioned DSO imaging, Mak will be ruled out because its focal ratio is way too slow. A C6 + a reducer on an AVX or HEQ5 Pro might fit your needs. A SW 120ED refractor could be another good choice if your budget allows.
  8. Unless it's the angle of your phone when you took the picture, there is very obvious vignetting to the top right. Your secondary mirror could be out of collimation.
  9. The SW Skymax 180 is a heavy scope at 7.8kg. Being a Mak with thick corrector plate, it will take ages to cool down (3+ hours) unless you insulate the whole tube. This is definitely not something I'd call grab'n'go.
  10. This is exactly how any stars (note: stars, not planets) would look like in a telescope.
  11. Mak is only good for some casual Lunar and planetary imaging, so I wouldn't base my choice on that alone. The AZ-GTi is considerably more portable and well supported. It can also be converted into a small EQ mount with the SW EQ wedge should you wish. If you'd like a compact affordable EQ mount, the SW EQM35 or ES iEXOS-100 are good options.
  12. While the 5" Mak is a very compact scope ideal for grab'n'go, the EXOS2 being an EQ5 class mount isn't. You could go the OTA only and get yourself a SW AZ-GTi mount if you require GOTO.
  13. From what you've described, it's perfectly normal. Some eyepieces (not just the basic ones) are less tolerant with the position of the eyes than the others. With regards to sharpness, the stock 25mm ep while being very basic should provide sharp on-axis views. Off axis views generally suffer from field curvature, coma and astigmatism in these starter eyepieces. Sometimes the quality of the views would also get affected by the seeing condition. BTW there is a central obstruction in the reflectors/catadioptrics design that could reduce the sharpness/contrast slightly. So you can't expect th
  14. The Bresser 6" dob is an f/8 scope with 1200mm focal length instead of 750mm found on the SW heritage 150. This translates to easier collimation, smaller central obstruction (higher contrast) and being much more forgiveable on eyepieces. The focuser is also a notch above the SW. The tube ring will allow the scope to be attached to a different mount much more easily than any SW dobs. If you've made up your mind about a newt on a dob base, go for it. To get quality views with a refractor, you really need to spend a lot more than this.
  15. You can use plate solving PA with your DSLR and lens
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