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About KP82

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    Star Forming

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  1. I agree. The light doesn't travel in parallel to the barrel of the extension tube as it moves towards the focal point. Therefore its path is actually longer than the length of the extension tube. In order to work out how much longer it is, that's a complicated geometry question.
  2. I was there this afternoon. Got excited when I saw the encoder kit for the Altair saber in its final production form. It's made by someone in Australia. Asked Ian and he said it would be released in about a month time.
  3. Glad to hear you like the scope. The BST Starguiders are very reasonably priced. The whole set (7 pieces) together cost about the same as a single short/medium focal TV Nagler T6. As you can see this is very good value. In terms of performance you would be hard pressed to see any difference between them with a f/7 scope under average seeing condition in UK. Now if you actually want something even wider and plan to own a fast newt in the near future, that's when you splash out the cash for the likes of TV/Pentax (or ES68/82 if you want to keep the cost down).
  4. One's saying WO gets to pick the best objectives from the batch, but another says SV gets the privilege. I've read this so many times on CN, but do you really believe them? Anyway WO scopes are a mixed bag, some models were highly praised (those that used LZOS or LOMO objectives) while others were no different from the other rebranders. I've got a Megrez 90FD (a later revision with the correct f ratio printed on the lens cell) and really like it. I've used a Vixen SD115S before. While it was surpisingly light for this aperture and its optical quality was superb, I do not think it's worth the extra money compared to the likes of AA 102/115EDT.
  5. Some of the Celestron eyepieces are pretty good (e.g. XCel LX), so it really depends on what series/models you've got there. As for the barlow although never heard of this brand viewmate, as long as it's a 2+ elements achro design it should be fine. If your Celestron eyepieces are the basic plossls and you'd like something wider without breaking the bank, take a look at the BST starguiders. Looking at the specs of the Bresser EXOS2, it is equivalent to a SW EQ5 so should be good enough for visual. However for imaging with a 4" triplet, I'd opt for HEQ5 or above. A reducer would also help in minimising errors in tracking. A 50mm guide scope would be a good starting point. It's lighter than the 60mm one so less strain on your mount. Larger guide scopes can produce brighter images to improve tracking performance but would require a much more hefty mount.
  6. Weighs in at 600kg lens only ... imagine how heavy the end scope is going to be. You'd need a crane to set this whole thing up.
  7. UK Astro Buy & Sell https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/
  8. Understandable. Some scopes simply grow on you. I bought my M90FD off UKABS and I'd never part with it.
  9. I use my HEQ5 mainly for learning and practicing AP with my APM 107. I do most of the observations on a manual Alt-AZ mount with my Megrez 90FD or my SW 200P dob and don't mind the lack of tracking. If goto is a requirement and you want one mount the HEQ5 that covers for all of your scopes, then an 8" might be pushing its limit especially if you plan to do AP. In this case a 6" f/5 newt would be the ideal choice. It is like a universal scope that covers most of the subjects while giving you an increase in aperture compared to what you've already got. A Mak certainly performs better than an equivalent aperture newt on planets, but the difference isn't huge. On the other hand the wider fov from a newt is pretty hard to beat. I'd get an OOUK VX6 1/10 PV to replace the 127 Mak.
  10. For AP, a fast newt is preferable. The suggested OOUK VX8 with 1/10 PV mirror is one of the best. However if your main focus is visual, a slower f/6 newt such as a the Skywatcher 200P dob or OOUK VX8L 1/10 PV (if you want the quality) is a lot more manageable in terms of collimation, reduced coma and choice of eyepieces. If you were to get a 6" newt like Skywatcher 150P or OOUK VX6, it would make the 127 Mak obsolete as the apertures would be too close. Personally I'd get a OOUK VX8L on a dob mount for visual and forget about the 180 Mak. You can easily push a quality newt like the OOUK to the same level of magnification as a Mak for planetary, luna and doubles with a short focal eyepiece. As for AP, start with your 80ED + a FR/FF. A smaller frac like the 80ED on a HEQ5 will produce more satisfactory results than a 6" or 8" if you're new to AP.
  11. If it's £300 for the whole lot, it would be quite difficult to find any ED scopes new. So you would have to settle for achros (e.g. SW ST120 on AZ3, Bresser AR-80/640 on AZ Nano). As for used SW 80ED should fall into your price bracket.
  12. Great choice actually. I brought up the TS one thinking you were tight on the budget but still wanted to start imaging right away. Hope you've already got a decent mount for the whole setup so you can start producing some lovely pictures.
  13. The Riccardi one both the 1.0x FF and 0.75x FR are universally compatible with all the APM apo triplets. They are expensive. If you're just starting with imaging (like me), you could go with the cheaper TS 2.5" FF/FR. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2646_TS-Optics-PHOTOLINE-Full-Frame-APO-Corrector---Flattener-for-astrophotography.html
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