msacco

12 minutes ago, wornish said:

Yes my RPi4 is 4GB.  Was a typo

Kstars/Ekos has its own polar alignment tool which works very well.  I also used Sharpcap but the Ekos version is very similar and it actually does the RA rotation for you before you manually do the actual alignment. Here is a short demonstration.

 

Interesting. Maybe I should get a raspberry pi just for the fun of it. That could be a waste of $60 though 🙃

Speaking of stellarmate, how is it? I don't really think it's worth an extra $50 for an OS. With the budget of the additional stellarmate, I should probably get a mini pc.

2 hours ago, SamAndrew said:

My micro Optiplex has a i5 4590t (2.0Ghz) and runs everything without issue - I use DSS live to analyse images as they come in on top of SGP, CDC, PHD2 and TeamViewer.

I wanetd to avoid usb hubs, so something with more than 4 usb ports was essential for me.

Thanks for the comment, curently in terms of mini PC's I'm thinking of either the Beelink T34 due to the 6W TDP and a CPU that according to reviews I've read should be plenty enough for image capturing(I won't be live stacking or anything similar to that), or the following one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32790689792.html with the i7-4610Y processor, which should be a fairly good processor running on 11.5W TDP and 6W SDP(don't know if that actually helps in any way), also with 8GB ram and 256 GB SSD for $216, USB3.0 x 4 ports and USB2.0 x 2 ports, that should be plenty I'd say.

1 hour ago, wornish said:

I have the RPi 4 with 4MB memory and run Astroberry which contains Kstars/Ekos as my astro software to control everything plus PHD2 for guiding.  It works great.  The one extra thing I did was to invest in a SSD with a USB3 controller and that made a huge difference to the performance. The improvement was 8X the speed of using just an SD card.  The RPi4 doesn't boot off USB3 yet but there is quite a simple mod that's available that allows the system to run completely off the SSD.  The performance I get now is actually faster than my laptop.

Here is a useful guide to adding a flash drive.

https://jamesachambers.com/raspberry-pi-4-usb-boot-config-guide-for-ssd-flash-drives/

I believe you meant 4GB?

Thanks for the comment, what do you think about a Pi against a mini PC? Sure it's a bit more expensive, but might be a bit more comfortable.

1 hour ago, Avocette said:

As my ‘signature’ shows I’m a convinced Pi user, these days with the very stable Astroberry package of software. I have several Pi4s, and have no problem using my 2GB one for Astroberry. The program uses ‘zram’ which effectively doubles the RAM available, and there is a memory use monitor display which shows that it is usually around 47% filled.
I start a session with Polar Alignment using the guidescope/camera, then steer to a bright star, platesolving with the main scope and camera (in my case a DSLR), Bahtinov mask for focusing, then off to the target. Take a look at Radek’s Astroberry videos on YouTube.

[However you can’t run SharpCap or NINA on a Pi].

Thanks! Thinking about it, is there a dedicated polar align software in astroberry? I don't own polemaster or similar, and currently only using sharpcap.

If I won't have a polar alignment solution for the Pi that's probably a deal breaker for me.

Hi Everyone, I'm looking into getting a raspberry PI or a mini PC to replace my laptop(at least for actively taking images), eventually to manage my gear better and more easily.

I've seen some(mostly) positive opinions on Pi/mini PC, and also some negative opinions. I currently don't own a Pi, I could buy one, but if I'll get one it would be the 4GB 64GB version, and in case I won't like it eventually, it's $60 I could spend on a mini PC.
Now as for mini PC...That's a very hard decision for me. I'm looking for something on the $150-250 range. I've seen some great reviews on the Beelink T34 which uses the Celeron N3450, a quad core 2.2 ghz, the great thing about it is the power consumption which is 6W TDP, that's quite amazing, it also comes with 8 GB of ram which should be plenty. Costs around $170.

My uses are fairly simple, I don't plan on any processing with that(hell no), I simply want that for image capturing. The programs I'm using are: sharpcap(for polar align), N.I.N.A for everything else along with PHD2 and platesolve.
Should be a fairly easy task, even for a low end CPU? But still...Maybe I should invest a little more for a higher end CPU? I could get some 4th gen i7 at around $200 such as the i7-4610Y, that's surely powerful enough, 11.5W TDP, should probably do the trick just fine.

The other options are getting closer to the $250 with CPU's such as the i3/i5/i7 - 7100U/7200U/7300U, last there is 8th gen i3 8130U/8145U, that's closer to the $300 and it's quite powerful already, I don't think I have the need for such CPU.

Generally, I feel pretty confident getting the Beelink T34, as I really can't think of the astro programs really taking much CPU/RAM. Still, not sure it would be the best choice.

So eventually, I'd like to hear some experience you guys had with such setups, some recommendations, and just anything related that comes to your mind.

Thanks for the help!

7 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

Just to reply to some of the suggestions. 

I use Switch mode PSUs, and others have chipped in with their success with those, so let's discount the RF interference issue. 

The Fusion unit may well be Switch Mode, the spec is vague, I quickly picked it as an example of Linear based on the appearance. 

I've always assumed Israel to be a modern hitech country, makes its own Mach 2 fighters, surely they have LED lighting, so there should be a local source of a suitable LED power supply, no need to go to AliExpress - perhaps they don't have Google........? 

Michael 

 

 

 

We do have a very developed hi-tech industry here, but relatively I'd say the prices here are very high in most fields.

Also, I don't live in a very central area, which means the shops here are smaller, that means that the chances of having the product I need is lower, and the smaller the shop is, the prices are usually higher.

This is why I'd rather buy something on ebay/aliexpress unless I need it fast. For example, a 12V 10A power supply would cost here around $22, a 12V 15A would cost $38.
For some products the margin is greater, for some it's not all that big. But it's surely cheaper in 99% of the times. Even if I don't save much necessarily in a single purchase, in the long term since I do purchase a lot, that does save up a lot of money.

7 minutes ago, symmetal said:

I don't recall seeing any actual imaging evidence regarding switch mode vs linear. Most CMOS cameras are powered via the 5V USB from PC or hub anyway, which would have substantial noise on it, so noise on the 12V which in these, mainly power just the cooling doesn't matter. I imagine the cameras have good filtering on their supply inputs to mitigate power noise anyway. The 071 which you have is powered via USB without cooling if there is no 12V. With the 12V connected it will take power from that for the camera as well as the cooling.

When I did my own test a couple of years ago using an Atik CCD camera which is only powered by 12V I could detect no difference in noise on the output of the camera when powered from the Mean Well switch mode compared to a 12V leisure battery so from then on I've used switch mode supplies. On my imaging rigs with integral mini PCs, hubs and dew controllers etc., I incorporate LC filters on the 12V distribution PCB I made just to avoid noise generated by the PC etc. getting back on to the main 12V supply. Probably overkill but costs little extra. 

I also have a Ham radio switch mode supply as mentioned by stash_old but have used Mean Well on my rigs.

If you can get the Mean Well supply cheaply, then as you say it would be fine. Famous last words. 😁

Alan

Awesome and detailed answer, thanks!

As I said above, I think I'm pretty set with the Meanwell and I'll probably just get it, if anyone has any arguments that would stop me from doing so, please let me know 😁

8 minutes ago, symmetal said:

Just to satisfy my curiosity but is the Fusion PS-101 as mentioned several times in the thread actually a linear supply. It seems physically very small for a linear, and reviews on ebay state than it's 'light weight' and 'causes interference on AM and SSB', neither of which would normally be attributes applied to a linear supply. I tried searching on the web but couldn't find any reference to what type of supply it is. Its low price implies switch mode but I'm happy to be proved wrong. 😁

Cheaper switch modes of a more basic design will generally cause more interference than well designed, more expensive ones.

In msacco's defence, he did state a 10-12A power supply in his first post. 

Alan

Interesting, thanks for sharing this information.

I'm wondering, are you familiar with the visual evidence Michael was referring to?
Again, this is just for my garden and not a real observatory etc, and I usually won't image from there, so I think the additional money for a linear PSU wouldn't make a huge difference and that I should probably spend it on other equipments which could be more useful.

Currently I think I'll just get the Meanwell switch mode, sounds like it would do the job I need just fine

3 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

There is a strong ethos in this group of helping each other and saying thank you afterwards.

An expectation of mind reading and lack of common manners is often counterproductive long term.

Just saying.

?

"Thanks a lot for the information, it's really helpful!"

"Thanks, but I won't pay that much for it, there are plenty of other cheaper solutions other than a PSU I could go for that price "

17 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

That was an example, I've no idea of your amperage requirement have I.

I said to add up your current and add 50%

Why don't you search for  a XX Amp Mains Linear Power Supply in your country? 

 

 

 

 

Michael 

Cause that would end up being 400% the actual price from aliexpress/ebay 😂

Just now, james_screech said:

They are available on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017KOTXFG/?coliid=I16M2T305Y37IT&colid=YK0CRQPPZ23D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I got mine from a radio control model shop web site, can't remember which one. I think they also do higher power versions as well. 

They don't ship as well, even if they were, the total price would probably be around the 40 pounds, no way I'd pay that much ^^

1 minute ago, james_screech said:

I've been using one of these Fusion power supplies for 5+ years without a problem, I would highly recommend it.

 

James

I have 2 problems with this, the first one is that it simply doesn't ship to my country, so that's quite an issue...
The second is that 100W at 13.8V is less than 8A, which is not really what I'm looking for.

12 minutes ago, stash_old said:

I use a HAM radio power supply ,used for over 3yrs without missing a beat (famous last words). They have all the grunt and provide the "cleanest" supply.

Plus it should provide a "common ground" if you power everything from it IMO.

Yes you pay a bit more but you do get what you pay for !  example of Ham type power  https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/402024441231?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=402024441231&targetid=876737317573&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046652&poi=&campaignid=9794911380&mkgroupid=101625064764&rlsatarget=pla-876737317573&abcId=1139126&merchantid=138799779&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj7v0BRDOARIsAGh37ipWoLZfd7Pw1BzKQ6LqvwHyG9wPNLHJYY4wtso2c-Mq-RZTdeD8e5oaAh0oEALw_wcB 

Thanks, but I won't pay that much for it, there are plenty of other cheaper solutions other than a PSU I could go for that price 

9 hours ago, michael8554 said:

You'll see in the spec for the 12V unit that the output voltage is adjustable, so I imagine 13V or more is achievable.

And l see the 13.8V unit is also a LED power supply like the 12V, so I imagine they are identical Chinese units under the hood.

These are Switch Mode power supplies which can put interference on your images.

You might prefer a Linear power supply like this 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUSION-Fusion-100W-13-8V-Power-Supply-FS-PS101/352577799099?epid=1142254228&hash=item52174643bb%3Ag%3ApmcAAOSw2x1c8x3c&LH_ItemCondition=3

Add up the current required for all your kit, add 50% so you don't run flat out, and buy one with that current rating.

Michael

8 hours ago, symmetal said:

I use switch mode supplies and have no issues with any more noise being seen on camera outputs compared to using 12V batteries. It's a long standing debate about switch mode vs linear but it's up to you. Many people here on SGL do use switch mode supplies for their imaging rigs.

I buy known reputable brand power supplies like this one which has the specification you want. The data sheet for this one does say the adjustment range is from 10.2V - 13.8V which would be fine for you. The load regulation is +/- 0.5% from 0 to 100% rated current so the output voltage will only vary by +/- 60mV from 0 to 12.5A load so no problems there. They are still made in China, so the one you listed is most likely a similar specification but no guarantee of course.

Alan

4 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

I do too, but some imagers have visual evidence, so it was only fair I mentioned it. 

The Switch Mode supplies are cheap so probably worth a punt. 

Michael 

I love how it's always worth asking here about stuff like that, I had no idea about it, I've searched, but couldn't find visual evidence for that, would it be possible to send?
It's also good to know that the switch mode power supply voltage can be adjusted, that would really make things much more simpler.

Now as for a switch mode vs linear PSU.....That's a tough one, I want this not for an observatory, but just when I image from my garden, which is usually not the case. I usually drive to a dark site, but do sometimes find myself imaging from the garden.
As you mentioned as well, I also want to get something with enough current that far exceeds mine. My whole rig probably uses a MAXIMUM of 6A(probably 3A on avg), so I still want to get around 10-15A to be on the safe side with future upgrades etc.

Linear PSU seems rather expensive though, and only seems to have a rather low amp(depends on price ofc) which is not really future proof.
Since I'll also usually won't use it, I don't really feel like spending a lot of money on that. It will be used for bortle 6 either way, so I'm not sure how crucial slightly more noise would make. But I'll wait for the visual evidence to decide

As for the meanwell switch, I actually have another meanwell regulator for my DC battery to regulate to voltage there, I might get that.

Thanks a lot for the information, it's really helpful!

Hi, not really a DIY, but feels like the right place to ask, I'm using a powerpole distribution like this:

This distribution receives a 12V input and outputs 12V from each connector.
For my battery field I have a step up converter which I'm using to output steady 13V and that connects to the powerpole.
As far as I know, for DC at least the longer the cable the more the voltage will drop, I'd like to get an AC power supply for this to supply as 12V input with around 10-12A and then output from that to each component.

The more common power supplies are 12V, something like this for example:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983648084.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.11dd1c2ds10r5z&algo_pvid=cc511b48-c859-4e4d-8418-9abd520c6c41&algo_expid=cc511b48-c859-4e4d-8418-9abd520c6c41-1&btsid=0b0a187b15863818112286122ef63b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Though I probably use much less, I'd like to get around 10-12A AC power supply, the question is whether a 12V will surely be enough, or should I get a 13.8V power supply similar to this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32835483104.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.f7c62ca28pELZh&algo_pvid=83a50136-79bf-40f8-8253-20031772e254&algo_expid=83a50136-79bf-40f8-8253-20031772e254-1&btsid=0b0a01f815863819068803792e5431&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

All my gear can work with 13.8V, but could probably work with 12V or slightly less, but I don't know if the 12V will give me a steady 12V for each connector, or could drop due to high load.

Thanks

On 07/03/2020 at 17:25, guillespiers said:

Thanks a lot! I recently contacted Starizona and they´ve started trying some things before trying another adapter. I personally think this will a new adapter is the adecuate solution.

Kinda late to the party, hopefully you already managed to get it working.

I actually didn't had the chance to try that, but eventually opt(which I bought the hyperstar from) did send me the correct adapter.

That should be exactly the right backfocus now so I'm really hopeful.

Since it's f/2, incorrect backfocus really makes a difference here.

3 hours ago, R26 oldtimer said:

Have you found a solution?

If not, I hope this helps :

 

 

3 hours ago, R26 oldtimer said:

So it looks like that this is what you actually need :

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000637525024.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.4000637525024&aff_trace_key=9b4893f2508443c08db65c242553ed6e-1579111608727-00346-VnYZvQVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=7577amp-UfuZRWmpDhc_EeyQg_4kCg1579547114977&browser_id=2ce6b9f96904439ba06875ab61a4aac1&is_c=N

That is awesome! Exactly what I needed. Now I can finally use my filter without going bankrupt
I might invest in a filter wheel in the future in case I decide to get more filters, but at the moment just to use a single filter I don't see any reason to spend so much on a filter wheel/filter drawer.

I'll surely get it and try it out, it looks perfect. Thank you so much for that!

1 hour ago, R26 oldtimer said:

I am starting to read a bit on scts and there are some complex variables on visual backs, or add on focusers, as the scope's focal length changes. I am sorry, it looks like I can't help you as I am not sure exactly how these scope's work. I would suggest to open a new thread to one of the imaging subforums, asking how others have connected their cameras to a C8 edge. I am sure others use this scope for imaging with large sensors as yours, and they will give you a hint. Then you can see if you will use an off the shelf solution, or DIY one accordingly.

 

Well the common solution is a filter drawer like this: https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/zwo-filter-drawer-m42

Or simply a filter wheel, but that's pretty expensive, and I really don't want to spend all that much for it. This is the only filter I have and don't plan on getting any more filters soon, so I don't really need something like a filter wheel etc.

11 minutes ago, R26 oldtimer said:

I see that your c8 has an 1.25" visual back. I am not an sct/mak person, but it looks that this scope is optimized for 1.25". I guess you could fit a 2" visual back or make an adapter but you will suffer from vignetting, as the inner tube will still be 1.25". Why didn't you get an 1.25" filter?

I bought a 2" filter because the ASI071MC is an APS-C sensor. I don't really have any idea what visual back is though.

As far as I understand it's simply the SCT thread size? Because the SCT thread is bigger than 2"?

2 minutes ago, R26 oldtimer said:

Aahhh, hmmm....

Sorry for the confusion 🙄

39 minutes ago, R26 oldtimer said:

No, no forget what wrote before about sct threads. Your ASI071 has T2 threads/connection interface, right? So you can screw the above mentioned  aliexpress nosepiece directly to your camera. Then you screw the 2" filter on the nosepiece and insert it in your scope's 2" focuser.

Maybe that's due to my outdated signature, but I'm currently using a Celestron C8 Edge HD, I believe that I'll need a special adapter from the SCT thread to 2" nosepiece first? Or is there anything I'm missing?

3 hours ago, R26 oldtimer said:

I am not exactly sure what you mean. If you have a 2" filter, you screw it in front of a 2" nosepiece. The filter as well as the nosepiece have m48x0. 75 threads.

I see, so I just need to make sure I have a SCT to M48 adapter as well?

16 hours ago, R26 oldtimer said:

I have also found this, if you don't mind the waiting.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/33013757839.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.33013757839&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=3154amp-UfuZRWmpDhc_EeyQg_4kCg1579027832458&browser_id=2ce6b9f96904439ba06875ab61a4aac1&is_c=Y

I don't mind the waiting at all, but where should the filter go in there?

6 minutes ago, R26 oldtimer said:

If not, look for something like this:

https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/2-inch-sc-thread/baader-2"--t-2-nose-piece-and-camera-adapter-(same-as-used-by-sbig)-(t-2-part-16).html

Hmm will this work for sure?

Just now, R26 oldtimer said:

Which camera do you have?

Right, important information lol, I have the ASI071 pro

Hi, I've recently bought the L-eNhance 2 inch filter, but I currently don't have any way to mount it. The cheapest solution I've found was a filter drawer that costs around $80, that's kinda more than I'd like to currently spend on that and I believe I could possibly find a cheaper solution to mount it.

I do have a 3D printer which I could use to assist with that, I've already seen this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4000378 which could potentially work well with another adapter.

So I would just love to hear some ideas from you

Thanks!