hectorbdn

34 minutes ago, craigg said:

Yeah, me too!!   Great image, I think I like the original version than the darker one too, but could easily change my mind.  It seems the darker one loses some of the fainter nebulosity in the middle?

Thanks Craig, matter of taste i guess! 😛 hmmm now you say ... yes, it seems like it's harder to see that faint nebulosity hmmm 

1 hour ago, Brian28 said:

Very nice pic  👍......  I have a question ..  why did you half the exposure time for the Ha filter ..  but triple the number of exposures .. over the SII and OIII ..   ? 

Brian 

thanks Brian, i will explain, in my case i'm a traveller so i have to go far in search of a dark sky , that means I ususally can only go out once a month , so, I need to take what i think is the best for only one night. The point is: I use the Halpha as luminance so I need it to be in the best shape i can, Halpha has a lot more signal than o3 and s2 so 300seconds is enough for most DSOs , since o3 and s2 are very faint, in my experience 600 seconds get better result than 300 even with few subs. o3 and s2 puts color in the halpha only. And that's it, if you don¡t understand something please let me know and I will try to explain it, I hope my english is understable at least  

greetings! 

58 minutes ago, Laurin Dave said:

Have you tried this pixinsight trick to get rid of magenta halos..   invert the image .. the halos will now be green..  use scnr to to remove the halos then re-invert and they're gone..

Dave

that's how I get rid of any magenta stars and background cast that could remain!  I erase the stars for tonemapping also because of the different size of them can show weird results sometimes, even just having stars from Halpha usually some magenta stars remains, 

thank you !  

2 hours ago, knobby said:

How do you keep the star colours natural looking ?

Hello, in NB imaging is very common to see magenta stars, those just hurts my eyes, I erase any star prior merging the channels that's how my stars are natural looking, my stars are from the Halpha only, they are white yes and sometimes a little blueish but I prefer that one miliion times than magenta stars, in my opinion. Even doing this procedure usually remains some magenta stars but I get rid of them 

5 hours ago, knobby said:

Thats beautiful, makes me want to invest in an O3 and S2 filter !

I love NB imaging! some people don't like the imaginary colors but I just love'em! 😍

6 hours ago, dave_galera said:

Hi Hector,

Try these two forums, you will get more reaction than you do on SGL, both are very good and very friendly

https://theskysearchers.com/

http://www.iceinspace.com.au/

Thanks! I will try those! 😀

9 minutes ago, dave_galera said:

That is a super image with lots of detail, nicely captured. Just a suggestion, I would selectively darken the background quite a bit to give it some depth and make it more moody, but otherwise a very nice image.

Hola! yeah I tried that (https://flic.kr/p/2hcZTf6)  but atm I prefer the softer result , it depends on my mood! thanks! 

23x300s Ha

7x600 O3

7x600s S2

SW NEQ6 PRO II

TS-Optics 130/650mm Imaging Star APO

QHY16200A 7 x 50mm astronomik filters 6nm

Zwo 290mm mini (OAG) MSI laptop

Sequence generator pro PixInsight

4 hours ago, Brian Maurer said:

Very nice!

3 hours ago, carastro said:

Excellent result

1 hour ago, dave_galera said:

Very clear detail, well captured

thank you very much!

2 hours ago, Adreneline said:

Amazing! An excellent result to my eyes.

1 hour ago, Stargazer33 said:

That is some very fine detail. Stunning!

Thank you very much! Greatly appreciated!

Hello, I could go out last weekend and took some subs more to add and improve the former version of the pelican nebula I made one month ago

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/338449-ic5070-sho/

hope you like this version! 

added 20 subs of 600s of O3 and 20 subs of 300s S2

3 x 300s Ha for fixing the stars shape 

1 minute ago, Xplode said:

Lets hope you need to extend it then because i can't 3d print a working saw 😂

crossing fingers 🤞😂

4 minutes ago, Xplode said:

Great, i already got models for M68 spacers.
Do you have a small extension that can be removed if you need to shorten the distance?

what do you mean? if i can shrink the distance instead of extend it? if so , no I can't , the only way could be sawing it up! 

1 minute ago, Xplode said:

Your dither is prboably way too small then. Test with a scale of 5 and see if it dithers enough for it to be easily visible.
A larger dither will not only help with removing noise, but also fix small inaccuracies in flats if dust were to move a little or focus were bad.

I would not recommend 3D printed adapters/extensions for permanent use, especially not in smaller diameters.
For spacers 3D printing is ok, but they might not be accurate enough so they can make a small tilt.
I can make you a few rings and ship them to Spain for something like 10-15€.
Which size would you need them?

We got a deal then🤝

M68 

24 minutes ago, Xplode said:

1) Maybe the images i didn't receive weren't dithered? If they were dithered you should change dither scale in PHD2, i had to do that with an OAG. I choose scale 5.0 with medium dither in SGP.
I'm imaging at 1855mm with guidecam scale at 0.65"
2) It's definitely not tilt, it's in all corners. TS does unfortunately not give the exact numbers all the time, also filters can influence the distance. for 3mm thick filters 1 mm extra of extension should be added.

I can recommend you try to change the distance with 1mm increments and lastly 0.5mm for fine tuning.
To not have to pay a ton for extensions/spacers that migt be uneeded i can recommend you find someone with a 3d printer to print 1mm, 2mm spacers.

I would print them for you, but i'm in Norway so it would probably take a while for them to arrive. I'm sure you can find someone in Spain that can do it pretty cheap.
I have actually printed a 25-30mm M78 extension with threads for a Takahashi TOA150 for a friend, it worked great so he ended up using it and it's been on his scope for over 1 year 😂

well... i know someone with 3d printer ... but it might take ages cuz he has 3 children now lol 😂 , I will ask around , do you sell them anyways? I could buy them from you because I'm not in a very hurry , I have been having this problem for over a year so one month more...... , no problem 😅😆

1 - yes they were dithered , at least that's what SGP told me , if it's not lying to me! 😆 I am indeed very noob with phd , I have being using maximDL from 5 years ago until now and I don't know very well how it works yet , Im using an OAG at 2.9" (zwo290mm mini) , i will try changing the scale to 5 as you said! 

2 . I use astronomik filters that in spec they are 1mm thick , yeah I know I should add 1/3 of the thickness of the filters for calculate the distances for the adapter , i was supposed to do just that, increase the distance by 1mm and further, it didn't even cross my mind about doing it with a 3d printer (im old school) lol 

thank you again! 

Hello, thank you very much for taking your time to answer , greatly appreciated !

I take the flat frames at the field , just i finished my sequence of lights while the camera is warming up, that might be the cause indeed , i will keep cooling the camera while i take the flat frames and try lower ADUs , as you said the vignetting is low and unitl now i just skipped the calibration with flat frames because they do more damage than good, but I could love to be able to take flat frames properly as I always did with my former camera (Canon 550D modded) 

about the other stuff:

1 - i use dithering indeed! SGP - High dither , which do you use if I may ask? 

2- that's other stuff is driving me nuts, I keep talking with the manufacter of the scope (TS-Optics 130/650mm imaging star apo) and the QHY , this scope has the flattener incorporated in the focuser , I have a adapter matching the exact distance they say I need, but as you correctly saw I dont have the field perfectly corrected, some say is tilt, some others say it shouldn't be, and blah blah blah , it¡s f**** driving me nuts! 

I can't thank enough for your help! 

4 hours ago, Xplode said:

It would probably be best with subframes

Hello Xplode , I just have snet you a private message with a link where you can download those frames

Ok! 👍

Master bias and dark is OK? Or you need subfrsmes? 

6 minutes ago, Xplode said:

I'm using a flat panel too, an Artesky USB 550mm panel.

Would you be ok with sharing a stack of uncalibrated files? Something like 10 of each would be perfect

Do you mean light frames or flat frames? 

Now I'm  not at home so I will upload them when I can and send the link to you 

Thanks for your help 

26 minutes ago, Xplode said:

I have a Moravian G3-16200, i always aim for 30k ADU and get perfect flats.
How are you taking your flats? Light source?

Hello, thanks for your answer, I have a panel flat which I can regulate the intensity of the light, no luck yet, just in order to show the problem I will add a picture 

The bottom shadow is due to the OAG prism, already fixed that, please notice the flats are over correcting 

Greetings 

Hello, I own a qhy16200A from like one year ago and I haven't been able to take flat frames that works well to me,someone I know who own a atik 16200 recommended me to target 45k adus, that adus works well for my Halpha but the same settings don't work for O3 and S2, the exposure time of these flats are = halpha (7 seconds), O3 (5 seconds), S2 (10 seconds), all three targeting 45k adus, anyways could anyone who owns this camera be so kind to tell me how many adus is targeting and exposure times for LRGB and narrow band? This is driving me mad 

Thanks in advance 

very nice! 

9 hours ago, Demonperformer said:

Yes, very nice; the neighbourig stars are not overstated.

10 hours ago, Seanelly said:

This came out very well.

thank you very much! yes, it was hard to not oversaturate the stars on m13 😊  glad you enjoyed it! 

greetings! 

6 minutes ago, Craney said:

Oh yes, that is very nice.  Excellent work.

Thank you very much! Greatly appreciated 😊