teoria_del_big_bang

17 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

It would be a good idea to put a piece of heat shrink over the connection between your lead and the extension - helps keep moisture out and helps prevent it from accidentally being pulled apart.

Good idea - better than my tape solution 🙂 

I just thought I would start a thread with my experience with this new camera and filter wheel from QHY.

My previous setup was using a ZWO ASI1600mm and SX filter wheel using Stellarmate / KStars etc on a RPi4 and after a few initial issues (it did not come easy) was pretty happy with it and felt it was reliable.
I also really like EKOS and how it is laid out and the ability to use it in conjunction with a planetarium (albeit KStars is a bit clunky compared to stellarium or Cartes du Ciel).

Due to the use of bolt on spacers and camera my SX filter wheel was not ideal and so I also ordered a new QHY 7 position 36mm filter wheel to match the camera.
The hope was it would be a straight swap of CCD and FW and just select different drivers in EKOS profile with maybe the need to download some new drivers from QHY.

But for days I just could not get either the camera or filter wheel to work in EKOS.

So far I have made progress and camera works fine but not the filter wheel.

In windows when connected to laptop everything works fine, camera and filter wheel and I used the supplied software EZCAP to test it out.

In EKOS on RPi I finally got the camera to work and seems to work fine on its own without the FW.
Originally I could not get it going but that was down to me downloading the 64 bit driver (as the RPi is 64 bit - silly me 🙂 ) but when I cleaned this out and downloaded the 32 bit driver it works fine.

But then connected the filter wheel and just cannot get this to work at all.
If I use the short cable from camera to FW using the 4 -pin connector on the FW (not the usb port) then you can hear the filter wheel turn on power up but it will not connect in EKOS and tells me the firmware needs to be above a certain level. I have found how to update the firmware on the QHY forum and done to the latest level but still gives the same fault.
It looked like the firmware was burnt to the FW correctly but cannot find a way to read from the FW what the actual firmware level is.

I have also tried to connect via the USB port and if I just connect the USB cable then the FW makes some horrible whirling noised (much louder than when it was turning before with the other cable) and never stops whereas before it sounded to do about a turn then stop like most FW's do (I guess anyway to datum the wheel). Searching on the QHY forum I found that when connected via USB it is unlikely to get enough power and so the motor stalls, hence the loud noises - probably not very good for the FW. So you also meed to put 12V to the 4 pin socket in addition to the USB cable (even via a powered hub it is borderline as can need up to 900 mA to rotate).
So all connected via USB but still EKOS does not connect.

That,s probably enough for a first post and will put some screen shots of faults displayed and some more info later but if anyone has any experience of similar issues or has same set-up then I would welcome some thoughts.

Steve

7 minutes ago, Daf1983 said:

The cable will only be powering the mount, so I will give this a go to see how it works. 

It should be fine 🙂 

3 hours ago, Daf1983 said:

Hi,

I have a similar cable to use with my HEQ5 which is also too short. I don't have the answer to your questions I'm afraid (seems like Billy has generously sorted you out anyway), but does anyone know if the baader extension cable FLO stock would do the trick?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/power-accessories/baader-2m-extension-cable-for-12v-cable-with-baader-outdoor-telescope-power-supply.html 

 

Yes it will work. Thats the short answer 🙂 

Like any cable if all soldered joints are good and cables are in good condition with wire designed for the current being taken then the weak link of any cable is the plug and socket.
Even in good condition there will be slightly more resistance at that point and over time the plugs will become coated with some form of oxidation, maybe even start to corrode as they are outside a lot of the time. Also then sockets can work a bit looser so the contact is not as positive as when new.
All these things can work to increase the resistance.
Often we need a good 12V supply not 10.5, 11 and even below 11.5V can cause some issues very occasionally and so reducing the amount of plugs and sockets, using cable of a decent cross section to reduce resistance and also reducing cable lengths to say under 5M just makes good sense.

By far the most reliable set-up with cables is to have no connectors at all and use good soldered joints everywhere.
But obviously that is just not practical at all but not using lots of extensions introducing more plugs and sockets just makes good sense and certainly not using poor quality cables.

All that said, the Baader cable looks a good quality cable and will be fine so long as you do not try to put too much current through it, but if just used to say run the mount then it will be fine.
But many of us imagers have a lot of gear requiring 12V and sometimes with a fairly high current, mounts up to 2A, camera cooling 3A, dew bands 1A and so on, using power supplies capable of 10A or more. So if we fed all these through one of these cables that may make the total length 5M or more then that plug an socket may get hot if the connections are not perfect.
Generally these plugs are only capable of 3 to 5A reliably at best.

Also many cheap cables like this on Amazon and the rest use very thin wire and so be wary of these again if using any amount of current.

Also watch out for the two types of plugs and sockets, 2.1 / 5.5 mm type and 2.5 / 5.5 mm type.
This is a total pita as even the coloured tips is not consistent across manufacturers so difficult to tell which is which. Obviously if you ever manage to plug a 2.1 plug into a 2.5 socket then that plug is damaged and also plugging a 2.5 plug into a 2.1 socket means the centre pin either doesn't make contact or worse still makes partial contact and has a huge resistance.

One last tip if using extension cables like this put a wrap of tape, like masking tape or similar around them to prevent accidently pulling them apart in the dark. Sometimes if only slightly pulled apart the resistance increases hugely.

Sorry for the long response, as the real answer is yes, but I actually hate the fact that this type of plug has been adapted for almost all astro gear power, they really are not geared up for the currents we now demand for many setups. 

Steve

The crashed driver may have been my fault. I uninstalled the ARM_64 drivers I had installed and then installed the ARM_32 drivers and so far seems to be working 🙂 
Now to try and get the new QHY filter wheel working 

Steve

14 minutes ago, Spongey said:

This sounds like a lovely problem to have

Its sending the thread off topic but yes it is 🙂 

Sorry @DaveS

Steve

26 minutes ago, DaveS said:

I've tried running ASCOM diagnostics before with other problems, but unless you're an ASCOM geek they are just gobbledegook. Or should that be gobbledegeek?

I feel your pain 🙂 

Steve

28 minutes ago, Spongey said:

Ah of course, my apologies I forgot you are using Linux.

I'm sure the issues will be sorted out in time, but it might be worth pursuing the problem on the EKOS forum, I'm sure the devs there will be willing to help.

Cheers, yes I just need to get  time to give this some effort and EKOS forum is a good start I have had a quick look but not seen anything that helps yet but when time I will start a new thread with some screen shots.
One problem I have trying to get time is a new 9 week old puppy that I can't take my eyes off for five minutes unless she's asleep but need to get this sorted as full moon is approaching (normally not good news for imaging but clear nights up here only seem to coincide with near full moon) ha ha. 🙂 

Steve

3 minutes ago, Spongey said:

Hi Steve,

I'd also recommend updating the QHY drivers to the ones I have linked above as it may be cause of your issues. 

Cheers

Thanks but that,s the windows version I think.
I have downloaded the latest drivers for RPi from QHY but it just crashes.

I think I may have to ditch EKOS and RPi for now and try to figure out a new sequencing package such as NINA or Voyager on a PC and go back to Windows.
It is just so frustrating when I have spent a year getting RPi to work reliably and also I really like EKOS and its format that I now have to change my whole way of working just to get a new camera working that wa snot exactly cheap.

I am beginning to wish I had waited a few more weeks and got the ZWO version as never had issues with all my ZWO cameras.

Steve

Hope you get it working, I have been trying for nearly a week to get this camera working with EKOS on RPi 4 but when I start it the driver crashes every time.
I managed to get it working with Ubuntu and EKOS on another cpu but then the QHY filter wheel would not connect so went back to my RPi which was working fine with the ASI1600

So frustrating I missed a relatively clear night on Monday.

Steve

Nice colour and outer fine detail 🙂 

Steve

Done same a couple of times on my SX filter wheel, such a dam good fit as well 🙂 

At least no contacts get made and damage anything (except your pride) 🙂 

Steve

1 hour ago, DaveS said:

 from other conversations it looks like the much vaunted RPi / Ekos / KStars / INDI / Linux isn't bork-free either.

Well not for me it isn't .

Steve

The 6.5 mm will be the length from the camera sensor to the front of the camera mounting face.

Your scope and flattener / reducer will have a certain back focus.
From what I can see the Redcat is 59.7.

So you would then need spacers to make up 59.7 - 6.5 = 53.2 mm less the width the filter wheel or drawer takes up (if yo had one).

Also in theory you need to add 1/3 the width of the glass in the filter usually around 0.7 mm to 1mm.

But watching this video on the Redcat you do not have to achieve the exact back focus as in this video he only sets it to 56mm and then uses the focussing mechanism on the Redcat to adjust the actual back focus.
On most setups the back focus has to be exact to stop elongated stars in corners but I think the design of the Redcat means this is not required.

Backfocus

I think this is all correct, that is my understanding but admit I always get confused about back focus so I am sure somebody will correct me if I am wrong.

Steve

6 minutes ago, SamAndrew said:

Could be a dodgy usb lead, I'd try another to rule that out.

Regarding the quoted cooling, I read it as -35 for short single exposures? and only -30 if doing continuous exposure, but it's not very clearly written.

Tried to take some darks in the cupboard under the stairs but after about 20 minutes the camera temperature started to rise so I was only getting a delta of about 25 degrees. I suspect poor airflow as I was attempting to block any stray light out with a sheet.

I had first light a couple of evenings ago and all went well. Set tempt to -10 which was 13 below ambient and it was using about 25% power and sitting steady. I was testing a whole load of new equipment and everything went ok considering. Still need to take some flats and darks to finish processing.

Tried 3 good quality USB leads now all same.
I have a fairly powerful smallish fan-less PC I used to use for imaging loaded up with UBUNTU & KStars so tried it on that and first of all had the same issues (after an update and upgrade).

Then removed the old QHY drivers and re-installed latest from QHY. At first no change then unplugged USB and put it in another port and it started to work, now works plugged in any port.

I had originally got this back out to swap the boot over to Windows 10 (it is dual OS) and try either NINA or Voyager. 
Not that any of this is particularly  to do with this new camera I just want a software package that is reliable, and originally my idea was if I could get Stellarmate to work on the RPi even better as it was small and light and cheap to replace if needed.
And I do like EKOS, I just really like the layout and the ability to interact with a planetarium , albeit KStars is a bit clunky.

So not sure what to do now try and stick with the RPi and Stellarmate, or use the more powerful cpu with KStars as it is, or change to a Windows based sequencer which will either be NINA or Voyager.
I guess with weather expected up here next week or two time to try out both of them even if I cant actually image with them.

Also a bit disappointing I cannot comfortably get to at least -10 C with ambient at 20 C (it just about does it but only just). My 1600 was very comfortable at -20  C even in the house at +20 C. I often took dark libraries like this.
I think your post at least puts my mind a little easier that mine is not a dud, and probably when connected to FW and scope it will be better as better airflow (although made sure vents are well clear of obstruction) and maybe clamped to other metal objects they will also work as a bit of a heatsink.,
Also in UK night temperature unlikely to be above 20 C on a night so should achieve -10 C which hopefully will be enough with this camera (used -20 on ASI 1600 but hopefully this does not need that much).

Steve

1 hour ago, Spongey said:

Are you running through ASCOM or the native driver? What version of the QHY drivers are you using? Did you also update the USB driver package?

I first tried just on my Desktop (I use a remote RPi for imaging running Stellarmate with KStars / EKOS / INDI.

On my Desktop running windows 10 and using the supplies software EZCap_QT it all worked first time, I guess  that would use the native driver as it never asks just looks for a camera connected.
Then tried it on my RPi but put the RPi on mt desk next to desktop loaded all the software required through Terminal and again in EKOS I connected okay and took a couple of darks okay.

Then powered down and moved my RPi to the scope which is not far away in garage attached to house since then it will not connect to camera at all.
Fearing something had happened to camera I bought it back in and reconnected to desktop and same issue it could not find the camera and this went on for several attempts to connect and a power down of camera and desktop and a change of USB cable. Eventually it began to work again, I can't remember what I did to do this, whether it just happened itself or I may have re-loaded the drivers again.

But still will not work on my RPi.
So this is worrying me a bit especially as it failed to connect a few times on windows as well as a Linux OS suggests it is not just the RPi it is having an issue with.

All my ZWO cameras in past have just worked and never had an issue with, this is my first QHY camera except the polemaster and has not been a good start but I am hoping it is all me.

Steve

No tried and tried and cannot get this camera to work with KStars and EKOS, just doesn't see the camera at all.

Steve

Today was my first chance to have a look at the camera properly.
But so far just downloaded the QHY software to my laptop and plugged camera in and powered it up with the 12V supply.

Running it inside with an ambient of 20 C I could only cool down to -8 C which is not the 35 degree quoted. I was going to try with it in the garage where ambient is more like 12 degrees to see what it can do but not been able to get it to connect to my RPI on the mount again.

I am really struggling connecting to RPi running Stellarmate. I did manage to download the linux package and in EKOS it did connect and all seemed to work but after powering down and back up EKOS will just not connect. Tried several times and now will just not connect at all just says cannot find a QHY camera.

I hope these are me being a bit dumb, often happens these days and will try again later.

Steve

15 minutes ago, Zermelo said:

Let me guess:  voiced by Alan Davies, and immediately followed by a loud Klaxon?

Ha Ha, surely you are not suggesting the show is scripted ?

Steve

I don't see why plate solving wouldn't work with DSLR.

Make sure all the data is in correctly for pixel size, focal length etc and make sure the focal length is taking into account any reducers  or barlows.

Steve

I cannot give you a definitive answer as  I have nearly always used NB when approaching full moon but I would say that if you have clear nights and only broadband then I would certainly give things a go.

Some things may help:

• Shoot clusters rather than  nebula.
• If you really want to image nebulas then pick bright ones  that are away from the moon if you can.
• More shorter exposures may help. rather than fewer longer exposures.

Steve

2 minutes ago, Endolf said:

 

I don't think so unfortunately, the output from the camera (and so the lens cap they provide) is bigger than the output from the spacers, so it can't be used once the filter wheel is on anyway.

No, probably only of use when taking a library of darks with the camera removed from the train not when bolted to FW.

Steve

13 minutes ago, Endolf said:

I also got the cheap camera lens cap, I've ended up with a small m48 extension with a slip on cap as a replacement. I'm surprised that m48 screw on dust caps aren't a thing in the UK. Can find one in the EU, but thanks to Brexit I have no idea what it would cost me or how long it would take, so having to stick with the bodge for now. I have a dark cupboard under the stairs where I can take my flats and darks, so all is not lost.

In the past I always used to cover the end with the sensor in foil maintained with a rubber band and then have it in a dark garage. I guess this threaded endcap will mean no more foil and rubber band but I would still do it in a fairly dark room just as an extra precaution.

I would still contact your supplier to try and get some endcaps sent out for you with the next batch if you think they will be of any use.

Steve

6 minutes ago, Xsubmariner said:

  Reference the new cap I’m more interested if it make a good seal for Dark frames, the cheap clip on that came with mine let’s in lots of light so is useless for darks. Can someone advise how the new cap performs for darks.

  

Good point, when I get chance to set things up I will try some darks and see.
I would think as it is a good fit screw thread it should seal well but will do some tests as soon as I can 🙂 

Steve

2 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Cool, I got a flimsy camera lens style cover on my camera.

Must be something they changed on the 2nd batch. 
I hadn't taken too much notice of it as just not had time to look at it much so far but just looked now and it is quite a nice touch, made of diecast aluminium as well not plastic.

Maybe drop your supplier an email see if they can get some replacements for the first batch ???

Steve