david_taurus83

https://www.cases-and-enclosures.co.uk/long-silver-aluminium-flight-case-l850xw295xh270mm

I have 2.

The bracket (cold side?) looks bigger than the heatsink on the hot side. Most peltiers I have seen have a smaller heatsink on the cold side. I'm also looking to make a small coolbox so I can still image over the next few months so following, though I've ordered water based cooling parts instead of air cooling as it's not effective imo

21 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

Never tried it - I stay on the side of a large sea loch and we usually have either a sea breeze or a land breeze so even if the mount were capable of long subs without tracking I would still guide due to the persistent breeze.

This graph is from last week on a rare still(ish) night - you can see that in several minutes not a single corrective pulse was issued.

That truly is boring!

I wouldn't recommend a 250p for imaging unless you have a large ££££ mount. Your pixel scale would be 0.74 arc seconds per pixel. So you would need to guide at below 0.4".

The 80ED will save you a lot of hassle.

Its listed in multiple locations. I've reported it a few times

17 minutes ago, Fieldsy said:

I thought it would still control it as the image from guide cam is still the same .

Yes, guiding, but if you remove the EQMod cable from the equation you'll lose mount control - slewing to target, platesolving, etc - from the ASIAIR. The ST4 cable can only be used for guiding via the driver on the camera, if that's my understanding.

What have you plugged into the Air anyway? I only need 4 usb ports and I run an autofocuser?

I'm new to photoshop but the method I used was to over saturate and blur the colour image and them add the L as a new layer and change the mode to Luminosity. Seems to keep all the details of the processed L and adds the colour data.

Have a look here

Select imaging mode, your target and your equipment and then add to view.

So ASIAIR wont control the mount? Only imaging?

On 30/04/2020 at 01:15, Fieldsy said:

I know it’s a old post but

using ASIAIR Eq5 pro should I stay with eqdir  or got to st4 and free up a usb for my EAF ? I know I could use a hub but would rather not and my camera doesn’t have a USB port out.

thanks

Not quite sure I understand this? Wont you still need the mount plugged into the ASIAIR for goto? So ST4 will only be an extra cable from the camera to mount?

I bit gung ho, but if it will fit, you could try removing the filter glass itself and see if it will fit within the body where a clip filter goes. Has anyone ever measured it up?!

Hi Dave. It was me on FB that was saying the filter is in the correct position and you dont need to worry about back spacing on the Redcat. Can you post up a couple of fits files as they come from from the camera? One for the image above with no filter and another one with filter and banding so we can have a look?

Thanks Adam, though your too kind! I tried to make a false lum image from the RGB and process separately but after doing too many steps I made a pigs ear of it. Started again and knocked this out in half an hour on Pixinsight.

Taken over 3 nights the other week. Warmer weather means my DSLR data is getting noisier. Quite a large crop of the much bigger field of view. I love the colours of those 3 brighter stars at the bottom.

Canon 6D 300 x 120s at ISO1600 (10 hours)

Starwave 102 ED-R at F7, StellMira 1.0 field flattener

iOptrom CEM25P

The 250 PDS is a big lump and you will want an EQ6 size mount at least for that. I'd start with the ED80 and flattener and see how you get on. The mount is the most important bit of kit though. The better it tracks and guides, the easier it is for you! What camera?

That's a good first effort! M101 is a really difficult target, more than people realise! I'd you haven't got the book Inside Pixinsight then the tutorials on Lightvortex Astronomy are good and the steps are very similar to the book. Your focus looks a little soft, could it have been better? I recently done 10 hours on M51 and I have an autofocuser, it still came out soft like it wasnt perfect! These smaller targets make it more critical for good focus as we tend to zoom in when processing.

Yes they are still active. There is another thread in the mounts section about a new mount they are producing..

The darker the sky the better. Skyglow can be dealt with in image processing fairly easily. Whereas if you are pointing directly over a streetlight you will have a really bad gradient on one side of your image and this is difficult to correct in processing. What kit do you plan to use?

The Baader one has an M42 thread and just screws into your t ring and away you go.

It sounds like you are on the limit of 6 and 5 as I have to travel an hour south to get to a 4 site. As long as you can shield your scope from direct glare of lights, then I'd try from home. Dew shield on a refractor helps to keep glare off the glass. If you have a Newtonian I would put a dew shield on that as well but only to keep glare away from the secondary.

Depends. Narrowband can be done from home and brighter broadband targets, ie M42, M31 etc. For dark reflection nebulae, like the Iris nebula or Withces Head Nebula, then a dark sky is better for these. I'm bortle 6 with 3 streetlights shining into my back garden so it's a bit of a struggle. I have access to a bortle 5 site (private car park with no lights and unobstructed views) but the travel, setup, image, strip down, etc all adds up and eats into imaging time. I'm more inclined to put up with my LP and just get as much data as possible from home.

How have you ended up with tiff files? Are you calibrating with the raw nef files before debayering?

How much does it move? On a newt, its recommended that you should be just able to slip a thin piece of paper between the mirror and the retaining clips so to avoid distorting the mirror. Wouldn't expect ti to be loose however.

Out of curiosity, when is a payload of, say, 25kg not enough? For a single scope say. Surely 25kg would be enough for a 6 inch frac or a 12 inch newt?

I used to use a metal cap to cover the front of my 1600 and created a dark library during the day. For flat darks, I took a set at 2s and created a master from those. I then used to take all my flats at 2s. The trick is to adjust the light source so that each time you do them the ADU will be somewhere in the right ballpark.