david_taurus83

I've posted this in the deep sky section but its more at home in here. I added another 3 hours of data to my image of the Heart, Soul and Double Cluster. Got this on Christmas Eve, despite a 75% illuminated moon!

63 x 300s ISO 1600 at f4

Canon 6D (modded) and Optolong L Pro clip filter

Had to cropped out the edges on this one but still almost the full frame.

Previous 2 hours and the new 5 hour version.

29 minutes ago, AnonymousAnimosity said:

I have just purchased this lens, I intend to use it with a Canon 100D on a Star adventurer (might swap it for an Az-GTI for mosaic automation). 

To mount the lens I will buy the William Optics Redcat ring and a short dovetail. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/william-optics/william-optics-redcat-spacecat-single-mounting-ring-black.html

What is the best option for a guidescope? If I'm not mistaken this 32mm guide scope from FLO should be appropriate for my image scale.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/astro-essentials-32mm-f4-mini-guide-scope.html

 Is it necessary to also buy the Redcat handle bar (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/william-optics-cat-series-saddle-handle-bar.html) or can this be attached directly to the top of the mounting ring?

As for the guide camera an ASI120MM should be enough right?

Those mini guide scopes are great value. Though once their sold out they don't get restocked for a while due to supply issues so I'd grab one now if I were you. The mounting ring for the Redcat is out of stock though so might need to wait for that. You don't need the handle for that but it would make things much easier to mount the guide scope..

Or Fishhead Nebula ive seen it called. First complete image with the Atik 460EX. Really happy with this camera. So easy to preprocess the small files! CCD isn't dead yet!

Altair Starwave 80EDR

Atik 460EX mono

50 x 900s Ha Astronomik 6nm

40 x 900s OIII Astronomik 6nm

22.5 hours total integration

Processed in Pixinsight.

To compliment this I also shot a wide field view with my 6D and Samyang 135mm piggybacked on top. Below is over 5 hours of integration.

63 x 300s ISO1600 @ f4

Optolong L Pro clip filter

You'd need an adapter to go between the rotator and camera as the ASI has a male M42 thread.

17 minutes ago, JayStar said:

Yes, was just wondering whether I could just pair it with a M63 to M48 adapter and place it elsewhere in the imaging train.

If you meant between the filterwheel and camera then you'd just end up pushing the camera further out from the filters and risk bad vignetting. You might also struggle with flattener spacing.

3 minutes ago, JayStar said:

Is there any reason the rotator could not be mounted directly the camera and have the filter wheel the other side of it?

 

The WO rotator is M63 thread on the scope side. Thats why I got the little TS rotator.

Hi Ande, what kit are you using? You would typically use a tracking mount and take long exposures.

37 minutes ago, geeklee said:

after a little spacer fun

 

Lol

If the camera is 'upright' in the home position then the top and bottom of the sensor will be parallel with right ascension lines, no matter what target you choose. The same applies to declination if you rotate the camera so the 'sides' of the sensor are facing up and down in the home position.

Example of sensor 'upright'

Sensor rotated 90° or on its 'side'. Bottom and top are now parallel to declination.

You can use this to pre-frame a target to get you close to the desired framing. I tend to stick to either upright or sideways though as they are easier to replicate.

The clear acrylic ones do seem to produce very good spikes as I had one with my WO GT71. Dont know if I could stomach paying near 50 quid for a b mask though!

Theres someone on the Facebook selling page selling them for a tenner. Specific for the Samyang.

I just used the one I was using for my 80mm scope though and it works fine. Just need to zoom in!

6 hours ago, nfotis said:

These prices for NB filters are almost obscene.

An amateur astrophotographer must be quite rich and be ready to pay the price of a whole dedicated camera for a single filter(!).

Compare the price of a cooled IMX492 camera with these filters, it's crazy.

As you can imagine, I am not keen on entering this particular hobby at such exorbitant prices, so ZWO/QHY lose at least one DSO camera sale from me.

 

N.F.

 

ZWO/QHY don't make the filters in question? And if it wasn't for the likes of ZWO/QHY this hobby would be out of reach for most, in particular availability of cooled cameras.

2 hours ago, Dantooine said:

Folds down short. Call me dim but how does the focuser work?

Its threaded so you just rotate it. Basic but it works!

10 minutes ago, philhilo said:

I have the clip in Canon D2, not cheap but effective in a bortle 8+ area when imaging broad band targets.  Although the LEDs are broadband, I think there is an overall reduction in light pollution as the streetlight designs are more focused, the house fronts and gardens in the streets with LEDs are noticeably darker. 

I tried in vain to get the clip in for my 6D. Ordered off 2 vendors before FLO finally confirmed it was discontinued 😥

Have an L Pro now as it looks similar bandpass to the D1. Probably not relevant to the LED question.

Give the Rosette a go then, see how you get on. Or the California nebula near M45. Both are strong Ha sources so it will give you an idea of how your camera responds to emission nebula.

It doesn't need to be but it'll block out a lot of Ha signal. Have you tried an emission nebula with this camera/scope yet?

What about M81 & M82? Good broadband target, don't need a modded camera for it. About 40 degrees up N/NE from 8pm onwards.

On 11/07/2020 at 13:45, Wyvernp said:

Interesting when you compare to the baader 7nm. I believe there are 20x 300s here

I have to say this is not the experience I had with my Baader 7nm. Ha was always clean with nice small stars. Great filter and I'd never hesitate to recommend.

Those Antlias look good though!

I reckon you'd need an EQ6 at least to mount it!

19 minutes ago, Moonshed said:

You’re  lucky your missus didn’t hoist you up the pole!

I was in the middle of a Horsehead run with 15 minute subs! There was no easier fix!

I also use a 6D but mines modded. Great camera imo. Probably the best Canon to use for AP. The biggest challenge is getting a flat field due to the sensor size but that's what cropping is for! Heres an example of what it can do modded at 350mm focal length.

You'll only use about 4 amps max. That was my experience with AZEQ6, ASI1600, focuser, dew heaters, Stellarmate etc. A 1.5mm cable at that distance will drop 1 maybe 2 volts so you would need the ability to increase the voltage. I use this:

https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/product/nevada-ps-30m/

I use an old yellow 110v building site cable, 1.5mm cores. I clipped the plugs off and put banana plugs on the PSU side and fitted a cigar socket adapter to the scope side, with an inline fuse for good measure. I'm hopeless with a soldering iron so most connections are crimped where needed. I used to use all 4 sockets and the USB supplied 5v to the Stellarmate but I only use the one socket now and have a small power distribution block for all 12v connections courtesy of Deep Sky Dad.

1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

Strange! You weren't shooting with a clothes line or power cable in the line of sight? Or a spider's web in the dewsheild? We've seen both before now on here.

I have had both as well! The spider web is an easy fix but the clothes line had a scissors took to it! The missus was not impressed lol

I replaced the line and its wrapped around the pole several times so I can lower it instead of cutting when needed.

My first night out was plagued by clouds. Second night out i had a wandering dust bunny that changed position every frame rendering flats useless. Finally tonight the clouds stayed away for a couple of hours and the dust bunnies stayed in on place for the most part. I was imaging NGC896 in Oiii on the main scope so just set the Samy/6D snapping away on top, hence the off centre framing. Lens stopped down to f4 and it gives good results to the edge, even on the full frame 6D. Wish I had bought this lens earlier instead of experimenting with Canon lenses!

23 x 300s f4 @ ISO1600. Quick bash in PI and PS.

Try turning the 2 filters the other way round and see if the flats are different. Are they unmounted? They usually have an anti reflective coating on one side so its possible you have installed them backwards.