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david_taurus83
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Posts posted by david_taurus83
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28 minutes ago, Shimrod said:
I'm pretty certain I would not have any kit left by morning if I did that!
Snap! I'm looking for a house move soon and one of the potential candidates looks better than here though.
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Curious, has anyone ever tried to rig a mount with a few stepper motors to remote polar align?
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Google says there's no lock up function on the D3200.
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12 minutes ago, Jamgood said:
Cheers. Yeah, it's nice to know that it's not a problem with DSS. I wasn't sure what it was but I'll try doing manual flats as @vlaiv has suggested and go from there.
This was my first time taking flats with this camera so it's all new to me. (Bit different from point and click DSLR) I just went with what the Auto Flats Aid recommended as I assumed that would be sufficient.
There seems to be a lot of conflicting information around regards short vs longer flats. I guess I'll have to try and find the best way with the camera and see what works for me. 👍
How do you take flats BTW? I struggled with a 200P when I had it. I was putting the flat panel on top of the OTA but in hindsight, this was probably putting stray light into the focuser. Might be better to point a newt at a light source so only light from the primary is reflected into the focuser.
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I ran the lot through PI and got the same results so nothing wrong with your DSS settings. I can remove it mostly with DBE but your left with noisy gradients after. Nothing more exposure can't help clear up. Your flat exposures look very low btw. I aim for around 2 or 3 seconds usually with any camera. Might help if you can diffuse the light a bit more and have a more even flat instead of the overly bright centre.
@vlaiv what is DC offset? Not a term I've heard?
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Not sure then. I have had issues with DSS and calibrating DSLR flats. DSS sometimes over/under corrects but if I run them through Pixinsight manually they come out OK. It must be a setting in DSS somewhere. Do you want to Dropbox a set of flats, darks and lights and I cam run them through PI and see what happens?
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Is that light frame straight out of the camera? It looks like it's been debayered as I can see colour in the brighter stars. The flat looks like it's still bayered. All your dark and flat calibrating should be done on bayered light frames. Once that's done, then you would debayer before moving onto aligning and stacking.
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The square pattern looks like the bayer matrix. It's obvious on the flat but not so on the light. How are you calibrating?
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APT is better for a DSLR I find. The Liveview in NINA is rubbish compared to APT. I only switched to NINA myself as it had a V curve autofocus feature. APT also has this function in the latest preview releases so it's catching up.
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Take a picture and post it up. Sounds like the scale has been changes to me.
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Is it just me or is the forum not loading the image properly? If I click on it though I get this:
Anyway, some nice spiral detail there! It's not an easy target so we'll done, I say!
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19 minutes ago, Starflyer said:
The encoders are very low resolution and I had much better guiding guiding with them disabled. EQMOD was even modified by the author to allow them to be disabled. I can see the benefit for visual use, but for imaging they're worse than useless.
This!
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1 hour ago, Allinthehead said:
That's some image!
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Why do you need such low resolution? I'm assuming you have the mount to track and guide at that focal length so why not go for around 1"?
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Love it! Reminds me of my foray into AP with a big 200p on a little EQ5 mount. Couldn't balance it with 2 counterweights! I wish I had kept it now having a bit more know how on how to do things!
Ps. Do either of those cameras have a mirror lock up function? It's to stop the camera shaking when the mirror flips up. You can set it to lock up a few seconds before the shutter opens and it gives a chance for the vibrations to settle down.
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Return he EAF to the supplier (can't believe they said that ^)and speak to Pavle at Deep Sky Dad. He can make you a bracket to fit your focuser and his AF units don't require you to remove the knobs on your focuser either.
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18 minutes ago, scotty38 said:
Thanks and searching around suggest this too but no I didn't do anything other than start the sequence which does a calibration before it starts guiding.
I'm assuming there is a separate step somewhere so if so nope didn't do it or know about it....
Are you sure it started a calibration? PHD has the option to reuse previous calibrations as it saves time if you haven't moved your guide scope or camera. Dont assume NINA will take care of everything for you. All it does is send a command to PHD to start guiding. Do you strip down all your gear after a session and put it back together again for the next? If so, you will need to do a fresh calibration each time. It's also recommended you slew to near the celestial equator to perform the calibration as it gives better results.
There should be a folder in Documents titled PHD2 and it automatically stores guide logs in there. You can review the latest ones with the PHD log viewer.
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Did you do a calibration in PHD?
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26 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:
I use a lot of Velcro on my Astro set up, but I will only use the actual “Velcro” brand, any other are rubbish IMO...
This is what I use and it’s super strong, never had an issue...
This stuff is great. I'm on my second roll of it. I've used it to stick some heavy picture frames to the wall. As long as the surface is clean and dry for the adhesive it won't come off without exceptional force!
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The Stellmira flatteners are the same as the OVL ones. Just different badge.
Removing the nosepiece on the 1.0 flattener reveals a female M48 thread and removing it on the 0.8 reducer reveals a female M54 thread (the advertised M48 female thread is wrong)
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40 minutes ago, Ibbo! said:
I call it the cheetah.
Apparently there is a zoo of animals in the rosette if you look.
good imagination required though.
+1 for the cheetah.
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Yes. Setup completely in the dining room which opens up to the garden. Not a single wire or USB cable gets disconnected! The counterweight bar and weight goes on last obviously. I used to do the same with an AZEQ6 and dual rig as well. Needless to say, my back is much happier these days!
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1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:
Is it really necessary to plate solve? I've done thousands of hours of imaging and have never used it. Like all things IT, it's wonderful when it works and a royal pain and unnecessary complication when it doesn't. The Rosette is very easy to identify in a finder or on a quick image because of the bright stars of the central cluster (NGC2244) which look vaguely like the 6 pattern on a domino.
Olly
Not needed but if NINA is setup correctly, it does it anyway so doing a 3 star alignment is pointless. Even with a 3 star alignment, the various QC of your average mount setup each night on a tripod doesn't always centre targets in the frame. But I do take your point. It's handy to be able to do it the hard way as well!
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M109 is higher up so you can probably get more time on it over multiple nights where M104 is much lower in the south and the moon will cross its path when it's around. Depends if your view south is restricted. Both are small targets. Smaller than M51 for example.
APT Live View stumbling block.
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
Liveview isn't the best method for focusing. You should take an exposure of a few seconds at least to average out the seeing conditions. Try looping 5s exposures and you should have plenty of stars to focus on.