bond19

Thanks. I think it would be out of my skill set. I thought I’d ask anyway. I appreciate your reply

Hi Stargazers,

My Helios Quantum 5.2 binocular telescope recently took a fall. I sent them off for repairs as the eyepieces were damaged but they have come back out of collimation. Is there a way for me to collimate them at home?

 Thanks in advance,

Binoviewing certainly presents its challenges. Thanks to everyone who has contributed. It’s been a steep but educational learning curve. 

On 17/10/2021 at 13:40, jock1958 said:

I have a Tak FC-100DL and WO BV's.

For me to achieve (native) focus without a Barlow / TV 2.5 Powermate or supplied WO 1.6x nosepiece I use a Baader 1.25 PRISM diagonal and a Baader ultra short clamp.

To achieve focus and increase magnification I use either a Barlow / Powermate or WO nosepiece and a 2" Baader MIRROR diagonal.

What I've found through trial & error and good SGL advice is a mirror diagonal uses up quite a lot of back focus compared to a prism diagonal, also switching to shorter adapters for native viewing did the trick for me.

Not sure how you could achieve this with your TV 102 & Dob but just a thought 🤔

On 17/10/2021 at 14:35, MalcolmM said:

Hi, I use a Baader T-2 Prism Star-Diagonal 32mm with a Baader Nosepiece 1.25" - T2 and Baader T-thread to 1.25" Helical Focuser. The helical focuser is a bit of a faff as unless you loosen the Binoviewers, they spin with the focuser! All bought through FLO. Hope this helps!

Thanks chaps. I’ll speak to the team at FLO and mention your suggestions and see if I can get this to work . I’d love to be able to view natively with the Binoviewer. I can only imagine how the many star clusters will look. 

On 11/10/2021 at 15:15, MalcolmM said:

Others more experienced than me can give you the pros and cons and possibilities. All I can tell you is the WO Binoviewers work great in my Tak FS100DC but I had to use a Baader diagonal and a glass path corrector in order to achieve focus. Doing a search on the forum will give you lots of advice on what works/does not work. I'm afraid I don't feel qualified to give you a good answer!

Hi Malcolm.

I too am considering changing my 2" diagonal to achieve focus. Can I just clarify is the Badder diagonal you use a 1 1/4"?

On 06/10/2021 at 16:20, MalcolmM said:

I may be wrong but it looks like the top threads on the offending screw are stripped? I wonder can you get replacement parts?

The Manfrotto website has a spares section https://www.manfrottospares.com/475b-parts.html

I couldn't see the bit you need for your tripod but I may have been looking at the wrong model.

You might need a whole center column  

Spot-on. That was indeed the problem. Along with the centre bolt not being long enough to secure the Scopetech Zero.  

On 09/10/2021 at 10:28, StarryEyed said:

Its worth repeating the comment about the three grub screws being used to lock the mount head to the top of the tripod. This removes the need to have to apply a lot of torque on the head and tripod bolt to prevent rotation. Bolt centres the head the grub screws secure the head to the tripod. No excess force required. 

It seems the grub screws do indeed lock the head had to the top of the tripod when using a Manfrotto tripod / head combo. When using a Scopetech Zero  there is nowhere for the grub screws to ‘bite’

If anybody is having problems securing their Scopetech Zero to their Manfrotto 475B tripod. I can confirm if you follow the instructions on the video posted by doublevodka then you can easily replace the centre thread with a taller one. This has made the world of difference and I’m confident now that my refractor is finally safe and secure on my tripod.

Wow, great find doublevodka. After watching the video, I suspect the thread might have weakened on the centre bolt (3min 57s)

If I could find a replacement or even better one that’s a couple of millimetres longer that should work a treat. Thanks again, I certainly own you a double, no triple 😀

Hi Doublevodka,

It seems they are just little grub screws which are designed to help secure the Scopetech Zero to the tripod itself. They don’t serve any other purpose.

Hi Stargazers,

My Scopetech Zero does not attach securely to my Manfrotto 475B tripod. The tripod has a 3/8" male screw head which is just a tad too short.

It does however attach securely to my Manfrotto 390RC2.

Is there a way to solve this problem?

Thanks

On 02/10/2020 at 21:26, Demon Barber said:

Hi Chris,here is a low cost but effective way of mounting a red/green dot finder.

B + Q  pipe clips araldite and a nut and bolt,cost app £1.50

Mike

Thanks Mike, this should work for me.

Hi is it possible to re-orientate / reassemble my Scopetech Zero mount so it will accept my binocular telescope, which has a dovetail mounting plate underneath the instrument?

I was hoping this could be possible without having to buy an L bracket adapter?

 Thanks.

So is there a hard and fast rule on how to work out the magnification when using a Binoviewer with a chosen eyepiece plus Barlow / GPC combination?

I currently use my TeleVue 102 and some TV eyepieces along with a x2 PowerMate. With a simple calculation I can work out the magnification with any given eyepiece.

But how do I go about working out the magnification when using my Binoviewer please?

Am I simply multiplying the stack of barrows/OCA’s to work out a given magnification?

Great to hear all your opinions. It seems the consensus is that bino viewing is best suited to solar system. Whilst DSO are the realm of cyclops observing. I really appreciate everyones input. 

This is likely the first of several posts to help me get to where I need to be (is that even achievable with this hobby!)
 

Being solely a visual observer, I have decided using two eyes is a much more pleasurable viewing experience and I am considering moving solely over to Bino. I enjoy looking at the moon and brighter planets along with star clusters, globulars and the brighter Messier stuff, plus general Milky Way sweeping. I am seriously thinking of selling my limited collection of TV eyepieces in order help fund the move over.  With this in mind here is my current set up:

************************************************

TV 102 (f8.6)

OOUK 12" (f4)

Optricron 20x80 (3.5 degree FOV)

Swaroski 85x42 (7.6 degree FOV)

WO Binoviewer (with a pair of 20mm eyepieces, plus x1.6 & x2.0 GPC)

TV 41mm Panoptic

SW 28mm Nirvana

TV 13mm Ethos

TV 8mm Ethos

TV x2 PowerMate

************************************************
 

I would like to simplify my set up as much as possible. The end goal would be to keep Dob for going deep when desired. Plus add a high end pair of ED BT’s into the mix (say APM 100’s) and keep the TV 102 for the moon & planets (or sell the TV and replace it with a 150mm Mak)

So I guess my first couple of questions are have you moved over to purely Bino viewing? If so is there anything you miss and what is your current set up like?

I know there is a lot to unpick here. But any advice from real world experience is most welcome.

3 hours ago, Stu said:

If you’ll pardon the expression, I’ve always preferred long and flexible rather than short and stiff….. 😱🤣

I may have a spare set somewhere I could let you have but need to check.

After all that talk about short & stiff I needed to go for a long lie down and I’ve only just seen this😳😳😳 (😂). In the interim I already scuttled off and purchased some slo-mo controls from FLO.

Very kind of you to offer though.

Yes Stu. But I’m not sure which set to choose from? 
 

These seem shorter and stiffer: https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-slow-motion-cable-set.html

These look longer and more flexible: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/celestron-mounts/flexible-slow-motion-control-cables-for-sky-watchercelestron-mounts.html

Looking to fit a Slo-mo controls to my alt-az mount. Which one is the better option?

Knobs or cables?

I’m guessing cables will allow you to track with less vibrations? But what are the advantages of installing knobs?

I feel such a doofus. Thank you both for your guidance, you have been very helpful.  I’m now one happy camper!

Paul the Scopetech Zero has arrived. What a lovely, compact, well engineered piece of kit. I will order the slow motion controls from FLO for sure.

On another note do I need a spacer in between the mount head and my tripod?

Are slo-mo controls recommended, if so which make? I’ve heard some easily fall off in usage. 

Great stuff Paul. That’s whetted my appetite. My refractor has been out of action ever since my AZ4 gave up a few months ago. 
 

I’m going to pair the Scopetech Zero with Manfrotto 475B. 

2 hours ago, Stu said:

I’m sure you will love it, they are excellent mounts

Nicely reassuring to hear. Thanks Stu 

Hope you all still share the love for the Scopetech Zero. I’ve just ordered one and it should be with me tomorrow. Can’t wait to get my frac back on its legs.