Chriske

If you're used to it PETG will do just as well.

I'd test with PLA instead. Much easier to work with.
Afterward you could proceed with ABS or PETG.

There are lots of discussions going on whether to use a bowden or direct drive.
I never used a Bowden, my pal Guy does use Bowden. We did compare our prints very often, and the result : there's absolutely no difference in perimeter quality at all.
In the end, when we were comparing very detailed prints, mine were a little bit better, hardly visible but there it was. These prints had 0.1mm layers and we even tried 0.05mm layers. These tests took us weeks, lots of time was spent tuning our slicer. Very detailed prints were rather difficult with the Guy's bowden. Most of the problems had to do with retraction not doing it's job.

In the beginning I was a bit concerned about that stepper on the XY-carriage also.  The first thing I did was change infill pattern. Standard setting when installing a Slicer is honeycomb pattern.   The main reason to change infill pattern in the first place to 'Line pattern' was to have it printed quieter, but most of all not to have the printhead violently shaking back and forth all the time because of that  silly 'honeycomb pattern'. That pattern is mechanically not correct for the printer.

So next logical step was to test a few infills. I thorough tested different infills. I hung literal 50kg(100lbs) of weight on small pieces of PLA. 'They' say honeycomb is the best/ strongest. Don't believe it. They're not all as strong as honeycomb.
A few are. Line pattern shure is strong, that's the one I always use.
During these tests (except for one) all thin testpieces survived with flying colors, my plastic bucket filled with steel and bronze didn't...