davekelley

1 minute ago, Elp said:

The shipping charge seems a bit light, can't even post within the UK at such a rate. You'll immediately be charged 20pc VAT on the item value plus shipping upon the item entering the UK. Maybe also import charges depending on the item commodity code (see gov website for commodity code check, you'll need the exporters HS commodity code that the item falls under which is an international shipping requirement and should be outlined on any exportation documentation/commercial shipping invoice, from that you can check if theres any import duty), they'll also maybe a small handling charge by the agency/courier which does the import checking when it arrives in the UK.

Yeah thanks I suppose I'l stick with my original order. It's odd that Canada can do it for so much less though?!!!

Hello people

I am excited about the ZWO Seester S50  anticipated to hit the shops sometime soon.  I already have it on pre order at £459 which looks like such a great price, however, Ontario Telescope and Accessories online store (Canada),  is offering this at about £319 and claiming they can ship to my address in the UK for about £6!

They do say that when something looks too good to be true then it probably is!  Does anybody have experience of this dealer, particularly buying stuff from overseas with them please?

Where is the catch?

Thanks

Davw

On 06/05/2022 at 10:50, Paul_Sussex said:

Got out a bit later last night and went through the initialising and 2-star alignment. Started with Pollux, then sent the mount to Arcturus - easily visible to me but JUST behind the guttering for the 'scope. So I fudged it a bit and selected the moon as a target. Went straight there, not dead centre but visible in the 25mm eyepiece. Selected a couple of Messiers to view, but they were both below the horizon - must get a list showing locations for the future. So, lessons learned -

   Spend more time picking a viewing point. A bit difficult in a small garden, hopefully better when I can get out and about.

   And more time on alignment.

   Try using the tripod not extended and with a chair/stool.

   May be getting a Telrad from someone in my local club, but think I will still need a 90 degree RACI.

  Some weight in the accessory tray to reduce vibration.

   Clothes peg or Lego wheel focuser trick.

   Eventually (when I have more of an idea what I need) eyepieces and possibly a better diagonal.

One issue that I had with the SynScan - didn't always want to respond to key inputs. I've done a search but haven't found anything quite like this. I was running off a pack of AA batteries, which I know is not ideal (Have a lithium battery arriving later today) Could this be the problem? Or something as simple as not pushing the keys hard enough? The firmware seems fairly current, V4.something - I'll check later.

Another thing I need to sort out for the future - I've seen suggestions to replace the existing visual back and diagonal with ones using brass compression rings to better secure and protect eyepieces, but to check whether the back is a 45mm or 50mm. Is this a simple as removing the back and measuring the diameter of the hole?

I have the 127, it is about scope number 7 and finally I think I'll just stick with this one.  I really wanted the goto and tracking and opted for the azgti wifi, sounded so simple and even purchased the hand controller but I've sold that all of that and I have the scope on a deluxe alt az now.  I couldn't get on with the goto no matter how i tried to get it setup  It was just frustrating and time wasting.  this scope is brilliant for quick looks at the moon and the planets, enjoy!  Also, a Rigel quickfinder and  8x50 right angle finderscope make things even easier.

Clear skies

Dave

Hi people

I'm looking to purchase some low power 2x40 type of oculars.  I believe the helios  2.1x 40 are great value but the best are the Orion 2x51, with a much greater fov.  I have heard that the Orions can present issues with eye placement and it's a red flag to me as I do tend to suffer with that sort of thing.  So my question is, will I find eye placement issues with both of these bins or will the smaller objectives of the 40mm bins mean they're more comfortable and easier to get my pupils in the optimal position?  (The cost is not the most important thing if the Orions are all round better performers I'd go with them.)  Hopefully someone has used both of these or understands about optics and can help me with advice please?

Thanks

Dave

Hi all.  I have googled around and can't seem to find an answer.to this basic question.  Having found it near to impossible to get snapshots through the eyepiece,  I bought a T adapter and attached my mirrorless camera to the diagonal and testing it out in daytime it was great to see how easily I could get focus, the camera seemed to default to MF, but it would not fire the shutter!  I'm guseeing it is lacking  information from the lens that it requires  or some such thing?  Do I need to set everything manually somehow, I'm a bit of a scene selection auto/fully auto shooter....  It's a new camera I'm not too familiar with all the digital menus etc.  It's a canon EOSM100.    Anybody know what I need to do to make it fire the shutter please?

(I'm not ever going to get into serious astrophotography, strictly the moon, planets and maybe a glob or two, I'm not technically minded, as you can tell)

Thanks folks

Clear skies,

Dave

3 minutes ago, ScouseSpaceCadet said:

If you want comfortable eye relief and a wider fov then the BST beats the Series 5000 plossl hand down. No contest.

Thank you very much!  I heard the series 5000 has 60 deg and "comfortable" eye relief?

I think I'll go with bst. 

9 minutes ago, Tiny Clanger said:

I use an 8mm BST starguider when the conditions allow it (which is fairly often) in my 127 mak (on a  manuall AZ5 mount) , it gives 187.5x mag, which is useful, and the 60 degree field keeps those fast moving targets in view for a reasonable time. The image is sharp, and I find the eye relief good, but I'm not a spectacle wearer . The twist up solid eye guards are nice, and offer a degree of protection against accidentally touching the glass. I'm very happy with the 8mm.

When the seeing is a bit iffy for the 8mm , I use a 12mm BST, which is also very nice, and gives 125x . For the odd times when the seeing permits me to rack the mag. up to 250x , I've a 6mm Baader ortho  I didn't go for the 5mm BST because I reckoned the exit pupil on a 5mm would be small enough to allow the floaters in my eye to become intrusive. and they do show even with the 6mm when looking at the Moon. The ortho is tiny, doesn't have brilliant eye relief and combines high mag with a tiny field of view , which isn't always helpful. I have a TMB clone 6mm (there are many versions, mine came from Alan at Sky's the Limit) which is easier on eye relief .

Heather

 

Thank you.  I'm stuck between a super plossl and a starguider and can't decide.  I know I love a plossl and the BST's seem to good to be true at £49!  

To be concise, what is better, a series 5000 plossl or a bst starguider, for planets, bright globs and double stars in a 127mak?  I'm thinking of  between 9-12mm max as my skies are generally poor and I've rarely been able to go much higher than 150x, or even go that high.  Alternatively are there any better suggestions.  I'm interested in comfortable fov and eye relief, I'm not using tracking.

Thanks everybody

Dave

I hope this isn't out of place on here.  I have always wondered so I thought I'd put it to the forum.......whydo many large Maks even up to 150mm, feature the dovetail bar on the side edge of the ota, when surely it makes 100% more sense to place this on the underside, in terms of balance and just common sense really it seems a bit nutty hanging the ots from one side of the mount and tripos when clearly it should be atop and central to the whole setup?  Just seems so daft.

Any thoughts or explanations anybody?

On 12/11/2020 at 14:40, FLO said:

Also, to compliment the new eyepieces, a StellaLyra ED Deluxe 2x 2" Barlow Lens 🙂 

 

These are becoming scarce with just the 15mm and 20mm available in 1.25" .  I would love to get hold of a 15mm.  Will @FLO be stocking the 15 any time soon please?

I'm after a star diagonal to replace my  Tak prism.  The problem is the twist lock.  I use Baader Hyperions and Baader zoom and I keep on twisting the wrong part of the setup.  Hyperions come apart and of course zooms zoom so I want a diagonal with retaining screw.  I've seen one on Amazon that looks like quality for under £10.  Is this a case of when something looks too good to be true, it probably is? or does anybody have experience with one of these?  I know  with diagonals you need to pay huge sums to imake tiny improvements but is this thing going to be just too cheap?   I'll post a link as I believe that is allowed.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dielectric-All-Surface-Multilayer-Telescope-Diagonals-default/dp/B08KRLHRHG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=dielectric+star+diagonal&qid=1624979072&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExM1Q4Tk5HR1RVWEJWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDI3NDM5VzhMNjJOV0lSVVhQJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODczMDkzSjFUNk1INk5NUVFQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Cheers everybody.

Come On England

4 hours ago, Jiggy 67 said:

Was it this………

 

I don't think it was actually, but that looks very interesting as well!

I'm sorry to post this but I have used the search function on here and got no joy.  I do remember news of a june launch of a 1.25" zoom, approx 7-21mm with a 70 deg FOV at all focal lengths.  I cannot for the life of me remember the manufacturer and I can't find anything on google but I do know it has been mentioned on here.  Can somebody please remind me and does anyone know if it's still expected to be available this month because it sounds hugely exciting?

Thanks

Dave

This might be a ridiculous question but.......I have a solar filter and I'm enjoying being able to enjoy astronomy during the day and in warm temperatures!  I have seen that projecting the image onto a screen can create a large image that more people can observe and in safety so that seems like a great idea.  My question is, can the same method be used with the moon, after all the moon is extremely bright in the telescope.  Do people ever project an image of the moon onto a screen?  Or is it a completely stupid question?  

Cheers

dave

I have purchased a sheet of Baader solar film to make pair of solar filters for my Canon 15x50 IS binoculars.  I had intended to modify some pop up objective lens caps, outer diameter 70mm, by making 2 circular cells with 50mm central openings, out of the film and stiff card, then gluing them to the inside of the lens caps which have a good 25mm of depth, so that the cap can still be closed and protect the film when not in use.  That was my plan,  However the film comes with instructions showing an overlap around the objective lenses which could be square or circular.

Is it necessary to have this overlap, considering that with binoculars your eyes are looking directly towards the Sun, whereas with a telescope they are not?  The issue is that the 15x50 objectives almost touch so there is no room for any overlap.  I would need to make a rectangular or oval shaped filter?  I do have another option which is to make filters for my smaller 8x30 Nikon Monarchs, or even for a cheap pair of Nikon 8x42's?  or should I go the whole hog and make a filter for my 127 Mak.  Does aperture or magnification matter when observing the Sun?  

I hope that's not too confusing I have tried to be as clear as possible.  I am torn because I love the 15x50's, the objectives do not move so a single, rectangular filter would probably be the solution?

Thanks everyone for any advice.  (Of course, safety is the most hugely important issue!!)

Clear skies

Dave

10 hours ago, StevieDvd said:

We just ended DST so are back on GMT now.

I remember it as we are on GMT until spring when we go forward and fall back to it Autumn.  Hence use the phrase spring forward and fall back. It also matches the US phrase which helps.

I know fall back spring fwd, I just don't understand the term "Daylight Saving Time"!  My Synscan init was correct anyhow, thanks!

16 minutes ago, Gfamily said:

My first piece of advice would be to get yourself a decent Planisphere, for example the Philips one (though not the gimmicky 'glow in the dark one') as that will give you a 'whole sky' view of what is up at the moment and has the brighter stars named.

Second suggestion is that you try the Level and North alignment on the handset (I appreciate you didn't get on with it, but it's worth sticking with IMO) , you don't really need to know the names of the stars, as the stars selected should be amongst the brightest ones, and if your initial estimate of Level and North is close, then it should be pretty obvious which star it's meant to be pointing at. 

Yes cheers I will have to find that level and north option then.  I did watch some youtube vids and they seemed to suggest that it wasn't critical.  I know a lot of constellations but names of stars I am poor I'm afraid, very poor.

1 hour ago, Peter Drew said:

A possible problem could be caused by using the Moon as the alignment point.  The Moon is the hardest thing for the goto to go to, the complexity of its motion compared to the fixed stars means that it's not an accurately recognised object as far as position is concerned.  I doubt if you are entering any data wrong being as you are so close to the target.      🙂

Thanks.  I can see the point of using stars rather than the moon or even planets to get an alignment!  I just don't know the names of too many stars.  I  guess I'll have to get the laptop out to be sure I am looking at the right stars.

1 hour ago, Cosmic Geoff said:

A one-star or one-planet align is not good enough to find objects far from the original aligning point, unless you level the mount with great accuracy.  The one-object align assumes that the mount is perfectly level. Accuracy will be much better with a two-star align.

Thank you, this raises the question (shows how little I know), I am levelling the ota, not the mount!  Schoolboy error?

1 hour ago, happy-kat said:

Hi

By handset do you mean a handset or the app on the phone.

If handset then it might be your date and daylight saving setting information is wrong.

You mention wedge, the az-gti as shipped is alt az operation and wouldn't use a wedge. Did you update the firmware on your one? Perhaps I miss understood

I just mean that mounting bracket on the ota that's sort of wedge shaped and a single albeit large thumbscrew on the mount holds the ota in place.  There was definitely a bit of give there.  I use the handset because I couldn't get on with using the app on my phone but I use an app Synscan init  to set up the scope.  I'm never sure what daylight saving yes/no  is supposed to mean.  All I know is the clocks went back about a month ago!!  Thanks.

Since buying some Canon 15x50 IS, I haven't used my scope much, and I've shied away from the technical stuff, star alignment ets. as at first it just didn't seem to work very well. I took it out last night for another try.  127 mak on azgti wifi with hand controller.  Set level and north, input co-ordinates etc. etc.  It wasn't yet properly dark so did a daylight alignment using just the moon.   Tracking worked great, which is the main reason i bought a motorised mount.  GoTo was poor, asked it to slew to Jupiter and it placed the planet within the 10x50 finderscope but not in the 24mm hyperion FOV!  I expected it to ask me to centre Jupiter in the FOV and confirm but no, it didn't so......Asked to return to the Moon, and it had no problem!  Same thing with saturn and Mars, was outside the FOV.  I won't be able to locate faint DSO's if they aren't even close to the center of the view in the finder!  In my skies it's quite difficult to find them at the best of times.  I did later notice a bit of slop which was the OTA moving a bit on the wedge that holds it to the mount so maybe next time I need to tighten that thumbscrew?   Any thoughts anyone?  I have to say the stars look so gorgeous in the binoculars and the colours come out beautifully and it's so effortless to just sweep around and take it all in, but i have this expensive telescope and I'd like to get a bit more use out of it!  Any advice gratefully received thanks for reading.

thanks.  the 15x50's arrived yesterday.  for me, and its a  personal think with binoculars, these things blow the 12x36 out of the water.  My concerns were after reading on the web, the eyecups, the weight, the fov....nope...no issuee, I  Iike these things they feel nice and comfortable,  the fact you can press and release the IS button is a  MASSIVE plus for me makes them so much easier and more comfortable to  hold.  Only caveat, the focus does seem to drift in and out with the is on but if you twiddle the focusser out then in again it seems to settle down....anyway.........these are amazing things.  

So, I may be talking to myself on here but another update on the Canon's.  I went out walking  on a hot day yesterday, and I took my Nikon Manarch 8x30 with me.  I didn't fancy taking out the Canons as I like to travel light as possible and the Nikons hand from my belt strap in their soft pouch.  That told me all I need to know about the Canons as a pair of all-round use bins.  So if they are going to be just for Astronomy and very occasional use in the field, I may as well have gone for the 15x50, for the extra aperture.  So I am returning them and exchanging them for some 15x50 is!  I shall report back again when they eventually arrive..................

Finally a gap in the clouds on a day when I haven't got a 4am alarm call.  Took a look at jupiter and saturn and a few milky way constellations (Cygnus, Cassiopea.  It was not fully dark before the cloud blanket covered the whole sky but meanwhile:  Beautiful pinpoint stars, lots of double stars and colours showing up well.  The best views of starfields I've seen in binoculars.  Jupiter showed a large disk, no bands visible, perhaps a bit too bright?  3 moons clearly shown, biggest surprise of all, Saturns rings showing quite clearly which I did not expect at 12x!  Tiny  yes but clearly showing.  This  is not my imagination is it?  Because I know what I'm looking at I wondered if my brain could be doing this to me?  I swear I could clearly see the tiny planet and the rings.  Hoping for better skies tonight but what we really need here is a storm to clear the air.

Clear skies all

Dave

Btw I found some fab objective lens caps for the Canons on Amazon uk!  37mm opticron fir perfectly and quite nice quality soft rubber.  The retaining O rings are loose due to the tapered barrels of the bind but that's not an issue to me.

Today, I took the both bins out, just birds and planes and rooftops, usual thing and did a proper side by side comparison, Nikon Monarch 7 8x30 vs Canon IS 12x36 and I changed my mind.  the colour fringe is there in the nikons, it's just less noticeable, and everything else is less noticeable in the Nikons, the Canons in terms of resolving detail are a world better, and with the batteries replaced for Energiser ultimate lithiums the view seems almost like tripod mounted.  What you can see observing a pigeon on a nearby rooftop well there is no comparison. You see the pypils of that bird like it's sat on your arm it's mad.  All clouded out still so awaiting a look at the moon or stars some time soon.