Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.


Petar b

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Petar b

  1. How accurate is this site: https://astro.swarthmore.edu/print_transits.cgi?observatory_string=Specified_Lat_Long&use_utc=0&observatory_latitude=32.5413&observatory_longitude=-105&timezone=MST7MDT&start_date=today&days_to_print=28&days_in_past=0&minimum_start_elevation=+&and_vs_or=or&minimum_end_elevation=+&minimum_depth=25&target_string=&single_object=0&ra=&dec=&epoch=&period=&duration=&target=&show_ephemeris=0&print_html=1&twilight=-12&max_airmass=2.4
  2. One question do stars need to be in focus?
  3. Here is some of the information. I used the T21. Filter: V, for the clouds and the seeing I don't know I forgot to check the forecast, but it was clear if that means anything. I can't change the gain of the camera. And the image was a little bit out of focus. In the files, you will find 15sec (6 images), 30sec (5 images) and 60sec (5 images) fits files. Archive.zip
  4. It is the highest pixel value. For 30 seconds it is 6357
  5. I took some test images with the T21 and these are the averages of the star are: for 15s: 3000-4000 median value, for 30s: 5000 median value and for 60s: 7000 median value.
  6. The T5 sounds tempting because with that telescope I could maybe detect 2 transits in multiple nights because it is less expensive. Could I measure the full well depth of a star in a picture? So that I know what exposure to use. And how accurate are these predictions: https://astro.swarthmore.edu/print_transits.cgi?observatory_string=Specified_Lat_Long&use_utc=0&observatory_latitude=32.5413&observatory_longitude=-105&timezone=MST7MDT&start_date=today&days_to_print=28&days_in_past=0&minimum_start_elevation=+&and_vs_or=or&minimum_end_elevation=+&minimum_depth=25&target_string=&single_object=0&ra=&dec=&epoch=&period=&duration=&target=&show_ephemeris=0&print_html=1&twilight=-12&max_airmass=2.4
  7. That's what I thought. First I would do a 15min trail run and test what would be the best exposure. Maybe even 30min run to try capturing the beginning or the end of the transit.
  8. Technically you can but it is a little bit complicated. To see my field of view I would use this website: https://dso-browser.com/deep-sky/object/859/pleiades/m-45/bright-nebula?itelescope_mpc_code=H06&date=2018-12-01. You can change the camera angle and what telescope you are using. I've used it before and half of the time the guider wasn't working.
  9. I already paid so I have no choice but to use them. The gear I have is an 80mm ed that is currently being repaired and a DSLR (Canon EOS 700D). I think I am going to use the T21, and I will try to detect WASP-52 b.
  10. Could anyone tell me what exposure length I should use and what filter I should use when detecting an exoplanet. I was planning to take pictures with T17(http://support.itelescope.net/support/solutions/articles/231915-telescope-17) or T21 (http://support.itelescope.net/support/solutions/articles/231906-telescope-21)using the iTelescope service. And which one is better?
  11. Forgot to mention that I am using an Explore Scientific ED80(focal length is 480mm)
  12. Is it worth to buy Starlight Express SXVF-M8C used for around 210 gbp. Or should I save up for a new CCD? I currently use unmodified Canon EOS 700D.
  13. I forgot to mention that I used SCNR to get rid of the green.
  14. Thanks for sharing, here is my first attempt at processing your image. I used Pixinsight. First the image was combined in LRGBCombination and put SII in red, Ha in green and OIII in blue. I used deconvolution on the combined SHO image and then I ran ATrousWaveletTransformation for noise reduction and after that I stretched it using HistogramTransformation after that the image became non-linear and I started to reduce the star size using StarMask to mask out the stars and MorphologicalTransformation to make stars look smaller and to bring out the faint dust the next step was to increase the colour of the nebula I increased the colour by first extracting Luminance from the image then I used LRGBCombination and I put the Luminance in the L channel and disabled R,G,B channels and lovered Saturation to 0.180 in Transfer Function and selected the SHO image applied it. And the final step was doing HDRMultiscaleTransform. I think it's a little bit too processed.
  15. Selling in mint condition Eq2 (https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p417_Skywatcher-German-equatorial-mount-EQ2-with-field-tripod---special-offer--.html) and Ts super plossl 6mm (https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p149_Super-Ploessl---6mm-Brennweite---1-25----FMC-Verguetung.html). I'm from Croatia so you should calculate the shipping. Eq2 80£ Ts super plossl 6mm for 10£
  16. What is the payload of the az-eq5 for imaging?
  17. Which of these mounts would you recommend. They are practically the same price the difference is around 50£. I would mainly use it for astrophotography. I currently use Es ED80. Pros and cons of az-eq5: Pros: belt driven, lighter, has encoders Cons: lower payload and some users reported wobble in the mount Pros and cons of eq-6: Pros: dual-saddle (accepts losmandy and vixen type saddles), higher payload Cons: heavier, no belt drive, no encoders
  18. Last night I shot the same star in all corners. I think that the focuser is sagging. 1. How I normally take pictures 2. I rotated the camera 90° 3. I tried to put a new t-ring 4. I rotated the camera with the new t-ring 90°
  19. You were looking at the wrong side of the image, you should have looked at the right side of the image. All of exposures were 30 sec long.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.