newbie alert

Sara, hope you're not selling up?  But if you want to sell in Spain what about Ian king and Colin in southern Spain.. sure most of your gear is all top end..

First get your spacing right to the imaging cam... Measure the distance between the imaging sensor to prism, this distance should be the same from prism to guide cam sensor...although the 120 may not be sensitive enough, but it's worth a try

The more you do it the easier it is.. some use flip mirrors for ease of target location... 

Personally I don't have too much of an issue, as mentioned above an accurate finder helps enormously 

4 hours ago, Trippelforge said:

Shorter exposures = less noise, so a ton of shorter exposures will keep building up the image. If I try take longer exposures the noise will increase to the point of not getting as much "good" data out of each frame.  So if I am understanding right it's all about balancing and 2 hours vs 30 minutes will net a better image. So I probably should get more. Sorry just trying to make sure I am understanding. 

Depend on the noise, light pollution and target brightness... There a few different types of noise which will all have an effect on your final image.. background sky plays a part in how much ( good) signal hits the sensor

Depending on how bright your target is, some targets are so dim that you won't get much signal from, so you can't build on signal if it's not contributing to filling the well..

So you have 30 mins of data...  You will get a far better image if the integration time runs into a good few hours.. the idea of stacking is to add signal above the noise from the camera.. so the point of deminished returns is by far in the 10's of hours

The 383 likes a higher voltage than 12v supply..

Do a search on the 383 to get the most from a classic sensor

2 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

I used to guide with a Mono Atik 16ic on one rig and an OSC 16ic on the other. Their performances were identical. Mono is preferable, certainly, but I found no real-world difference.

Olly

Was more for the solar work...

Yes you can use a OSC for both but  if you had a mono for solar then it can double up as a guide cam

A colour cam isn't the best for solar or used as a guide cam

There's no switch, just the  ascom drivers and your choice of capture software needed

Was going to say I bet it has something to do with Ascom..

Do you use CMOS camera, or are you planetary imaging as both will use far more space than others

I'd also look at more than 1 usb3 port

Problem with these sensor tilt measurement softwares is they don't measure the full sensor, only so far from the axis.  The tilt in this case is in the bottom left corner, top right seems fine.. so to determine if it's indeed a tilted sensor or focuser sag/ misalignment or even a slight optical misalignment is a tough call... You can eliminate if the sensor is tilted by building yourself a jig as Olly had on his thread... Stuart on here has just made a video on the subject and has confirmed that it's cured his issues

https://youtu.be/Gw2oTwb4GjY

12 minutes ago, Mike M said:

Yeah I had ordered the CEM60 as well as I had heard such good things about it.  Unfortunately the CEM70 had replaced it right when I ordered so had to get it (what a mistake that turned out to be!) 

It's been a few weeks now since I got the P75 and it's been going really well - took a little bit to get my head around the onstep software but got it mostly nutted out now.  Never was able to get details like this with the old CEM70 thanks to the oscillations or jitters https://www.astrobin.com/g5yeuc/

Cheers, Mike

Glad it's working for you.. as with any new equipment it takes abit of time to get used to it, let alone something that's relatively new out..

But still don't quite get why you're guiding for planetary 

2 hours ago, bottletopburly said:

Try waiting 7 mins after meridian ,ivo and jim told me this at PAS in kettering 

For me version 3.98 flips, solves and parks, with the beta it doesn't.. and the values are the same

19 minutes ago, barrie greenwood said:

Hi I'm using platesolve 2 and astap and using thr latest version of app I updated to the beta version yesterday but the rain stopped play .

It's driving me mad I find atp absolutely brilliant and highly rate it butvthis us driving me crazy

Regards baz 

Like I said I stopped using the beta versions and went back to the latest stable version and even had to go back further than that..

I'm using 3.98 which just works

Not sure how you would put it on the inside without it being in the light path? 

What version are you using, and what's your platesolver?

I had a issue with the beta versions not solving after the flip and not parking after the it's finished it's run, although it was in the script

Going back a few stable versions solved that.. I'm not interested in the latest versions if they don't work

Are you trying to use it after a flip as it will do it automatically within sessioncraft.. or are you changing targets and platesolving to cordinates?

On 25/10/2022 at 13:49, AstroLearnerWill said:

Are there any HA filters you or others would recommend on that front? for my setup of astromodified DSLR, 0.85 reducer/flattener, ED80 scope?

I used a 6nm astronomik clip in filter with my DSLR, seemed to work very well and introduced me into the delights of HA.. just need to have in mind that your exposure length will need to increase

I used it with the same scope/ reducer combo

A  130 triplet is on most imagers wishlist... Just not been a good enough boy come christmas

On 28/10/2022 at 16:23, ollypenrice said:

I'll never know because I won't be buying them!

lly

A proper marriage usually has 2 extortionately priced rings.. 

Did you add flats as calibration frames to the image as it looks like over correcting flats.. 

I'd check the backspacing spec, not sure why you want a oag with a 80 mm scope

Add a third of your filter thickness to the spec'd spacing distance 

12 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

@newbie alert that's the normal exposure button, the live view button is a video camera icon and is not shown in his screenshot but I don't think it's available for normal astro cameras but happy to be proven wrong.

What's he using a DSLR?

Press this and  change the exposure length accordingly 

The 9x50 finder makes a fantastic guidescope, what adapter have you as some require more inward travel, some outward depending on where the sensor is placed at the back.. try focusing during the day, it will be different at night but at least you're be closer

I'd say save your money for something else

Ed80 and 9x50 guidescope... Perfect..

Focal length is 180mm from memory btw