FrenchyArnaud

Hi guys! Since I built the pier I am going full on with total automation 🤪 My main problem was that my camera, a modded canon 450D, randomly "hangs" in NINA. (not when used standalone) It will say "downloading...." forever but is in fact stuck. It will not disconnect or reboot, I need to physically pull the cable. Not a big deal, two or three times a night I need to pull the USB cable that supplies the power to the dummy battery - and we are back in business. Except that it means staying up and monitoring the connexions... Staying awake is not a problem but being at the computer just waiting and looking at the guiding graph - that's dull. So I thought, why not put a relay on the power supply of the camera? There are relays that are powered by usb and can therefore be piloted directly from the computer, which means, with the remote desktop aps, from anywhere - INCLUDING MY BED! I tried but because of the length of the USB (10m) the relay will trigger to the data input but the coil would not physically activate. Disappointing. Long story short.... I ended up DIYing a completely remote system to bypass all the switches, based on an arduino board and a 4channel relay board. I have created my owm firmware taylor made to my needs and while I was at it, a nice little desktop app that both monitors the state of the relays and allows me to start, stop, or reboot any of the piece of gear, one by one or all at once. Thanks to Google Remote Desktop app, I can also command that (and Nina) from any of my computers or phone and from anywhere in the world. The only thing that is not automated now is the removal of the BBQ cover from the pier! One channel turns the telescope mount on/off, one turns the dslr on/off, one turns the dew heater of the guidescop on/off - one relay is still free. The total cost is : arduino UNO, £18 for 3 = £6, a 12v>5V2A converter, £2.5, and the relay board £4. If someone is interested, I can supply the exact list of parts, schematics, firmware and desktop app. Demo in the video. Prerequisite : Python3, a remote desktop app of some sort, an the arduino IDE (free and easy to use) EDIT : the video does not play on my PC from this page but it does on my phone. Not sure what's up with that. PIER.Software.mp4

Rooooo! That's a good one! 🤣😂😝🤪

The very definition of "learning the hard way" Something has to give, the dome, the rail or the motor but it will not be the padlock for sure!

To conclude this thread once and for all, allow me to share the first images taken from the pier, with the DIY autofocuser running and the L-pro actually installed on the comma corrector (don't ask) My processing skills have not caught up yet but the overall improvement in the subs is absolutely enormous, with 90%+ keepers compared to my usual 50% on a good day and my stars are both much rounder and much tighter. Overall, there is no question that it was all well worth it!

I FEEL FOR YOU 🤣🤣🤣 You have no idea how many times I did it. Like, I don't ever learn 🤭

First try yesterday... And there is no question that ensuring critical focus on every single sub frame makes a massive difference on the final result. I cannot in fact, believe how much of a difference it makes, it's like massively upgrading the optics. This is officially my best galaxy picture so far, and by quite a mile - the Pinwheel M101, 51x 300s + 25D+25F+25DF. I am overwhelmed by how well this intimidating project went and by how much it actually improved the final result. I can even see 10 or 12 very, very distant galaxies in the background, by my modest standards that is an image that I am really chuffed with and that I never could have done without computer-assisted focusing. The combination of the permanent pier+EAF is a proper revolution to my imaging process, I have no words to say how pleased I am!

So my monstrosity is done! Surprisingly, manufacturing the bracket was the most tricky part. I needed quite a few attempts and fidling to achieve the proper belt tension (not too tight, that would block, not too loose, that would slip) But! Incredibly it worked perfectly on the very first attempt tonight. I just can't believe it. The very first run gave me an unbalanced but nice curve, the second run was as good as I could expect with apparently very, very little backlash. When I took the 30s test image after the 2nd run, my stars were pin sharp, better than I was ever able to do by eye and much, much faster. Pun intended - over the moon.

Opening this thread for a laugh because I facepalmed this morning. You know, this second of realisation when you are overwhelmed by the sudden evidence "I am an absolute cretin" - facepalm. Share yours! Here is mine : Since I build the pier, I have had only 1 clear night to do proper full tests, a full session imaging. I spent a little time on M101 and as you can see, the colour balance is not quite right, shifted to red. That is because I have been battling with a severe light pollution gradient despite a high altitude target and an expensive Optolong L-pro. Bit disappointed by this L-pro. It is clearly no match for the city lights. As I am building an autofocuser I had to take the OTA off the pier, and I took the camera off the focuser. Then and only then I realized I forgot to put the filter on. It is still in its box. I will leave a scaving review "L-pro optolong, don't buy it, it works ONLY if you take it out of the box AND use it, zero stars." F.A.C.E.P.A.L.M. I should not be left unsupervised. 🤦‍♂️

The autofocuser is on its way! That will be a massive upgrade

Hi guys, so, following the thread here : I decided to undertake the build of a DIY electronique focuser. I could of course, buy a zwo eaf or equivallent but that's just too expensive (no offense to @FLO ) DISCLAIMER : I know NOTHING about electronics. I know quite a little bit about programing C and other languages - but as it turns out, contrary to my intuitition, there is absolutely no need to. So, after a lot of reading and studying, I settle on an arduino based system and specifically, "myFocuserPro2", a very complete project that you can find here. I bought all the parts off of amazon and ebay. That's a little elegoo kit with cables and breadboard (£12), and arduino UNO Rev3 (£10), a stepper motor + associated driver board (28BYJ-48 & ULN2003, £6) and a Step-Down Power Supply Converter Module 12V to 5V (£3). It was not needed but just for fun I also bought another Arduino, a nano (for the permanent assembly when my prototype is ready to deploy) The total is therefore about £30, and I will need a few mechanical bits and bolts for the linkage - it will all be well below £50. Having never done any sort of electronic assembly, and having read an awful lot about the topic, I was expecting a very tedious and complex process. In actual fact, it took me about one hour, download of software included, to get a working prototype that is 100% integrated to NINA. I must point out at this stage that I am in fact building the most basic version of myFocuserPro2, with no probe, display, buttons - nothing. My plan is to have everything piloted from the computer and the linkage will be pulley and belt. So, I just stupidly copied the connexions explained (no need to understand what does what, just imitate the plans supplied) and upload the firmware (so easy it's stupid and no need to even look at the content, let alone edit the code), then copy-paste the libraries were they belong (it is essential but dead easy and very well documented) and download the ascom driver (supplied too, nothing to think about, just grab and install.) Anyways, after less than an hour, without knowing anything and for pocket money, I have my autofocuser 100% integrated to NINA ! WhatsApp Video 2023-02-21 at 18.53.03.mp4 So, the rest of the project will be to 1) replace the arduino UNO by the nano and confirm it all works as intended 2) encase the electronics and lengthen the connexion between circuit board and motor 3) Link mechanically the motor to the focuser of the 130PDS (which involves building a metal bracket and installing a GT2 pulley and belt) Pretty chuffed with how that started; I can already say that if you are wondering how hard it is, just stop and go for it, the 115pages of tech of the pdf file are there just to frighten you, it is so easy to do that it is almost insulting. The devs of that project did an incredible job at pre-digesting everything for us.

Defo looks like a GSO/Orion... But even if it is not, it actually is not relevant. Assuming you are not proficient in the domain (sorry if you are and what follows is patronizing) , if you give us carefull dimensions (diameter of main mirror, tube length) anyone with even minimum experience will be able to calculate the main optical characteristics (focal length, F ratio etc) and to point you to the relevant infos for a good start.

Ok, so this is my first half decent night with full on imaging attempt. And I have to say, it was all totally worth it. I struggled a bit with balance then with calibration and eventually realised I have a major dew pb that needs addressing, but as it stands, despite a very mediocre seeing and a dec backlash measured at 5000ms (which forced me to spoil the PA to 3" to be able to guide South only) I currently have the best guiding I ever achieved with this 20yo battered mount! On average 0.80 arcsec, with lows to 0.65arcsec and highs of 1.05arsec (for ref, my camera + OTA has 1.83arsec/px ) Critically, pretty much 100% of subs are perfect (except for satellites of course) and it took me seconds to be in business. Of course, I have spent a few night in between working on alignment and calib but it is clearly doing ok now. I will now be able to take advantage of even very short cloud clearings! So... Yeps, defo worth it, I should have done tht years ago. I need to sort the dew issue and build my autofocuser and I will be all set for a little while! Unless of course, I decide to take the mount apart and try to service it... Which is not totally excluded 😁

Well, no points for guessing what's happening there. New thread coming up soon...

Thanks! Yes, that's the plan. I am looking for alternatives to the zwo that are more affordable, not found anything yet though. But it will be totally automated at some point, that is for sure

Thanks The EAF will come for sure - or an equivallent anyway. It's just that right now my budget has taken a hit with the build. I am looking into cheaper options but apparently it's not that easy to find. It will come at some point anyway!

Yeps that is my ugly mug right there! Ugly but visibly happy 😁 I was reassembling everything (cables essentially) and the GF snapped it on her phone. Because, even if she is a proper pita on a daily basis, she is sincerely happy for me. In fact, she insisted that I should do it rather than wasting my life and nights carrying the stuff around. She's a gem, I just need to make sure she does not know it 😁

Well, i's all done! Now waiting for the next acceptable evening to do the PA and the inaugural session Following the azimuth bolts incident, I tapped the nuts from M6 to M8 fine pitch (that is, preserving the original 1mm pitch and not going to 1.25mm) because I thought that would help with the precision of PA. So as it stands, all PA bolts have been upgraded , M6s became M8s and M8 became M10s. I need to use a tool to turn them but that's ok - I am no longer supposed to do it daily. I might still insert a PTFE sheet under the mount base later on; for now a good spray of lithium grease will have to do. I buried the cables and pulled the 12V to the pier, passed both USB and 12V through the kitchen wall, ripped the last slabs and put the last gravel on. This is the finished product; I may in the future clad the pier with wood. For now, protection is provided by a bike waterproof cover sheet thingy - whatever the actual name is - and the definitive cover is on its way. The only actual upgrade I am already considering is a zwo EAF - then I could 100% play from inside with this new toy! The few tests I have made the past few days confirned everything is working as it should and that it is ridiculously easier and faster to have everything running: it now takes about 45 seconds "to be in business" instead of my normal 90mins. Once the PA will be properly done, and decent calibration achieved, even with the focus to do by hand with a bathinov it will be under 5mins. So... yes, happy days! The final bill? Well, the first Jewsons bill for blocks concrete etc : £70 masonery drill bit (24mm*450mm) : £10 The whole of the gravel : 20*£4 approx. Bits and bolts (taps, fine pitch bolts etc) about £12 USB with repeater : £12 12V bits : £20 BBQ cover : £25 Total : about £230 but that included resurfacing this half of the garden, about £150 without the gravel which is, after all, not directly used by the telescope.

You see, that is precisely where this sort of AI is absolutely superior to people. It basically stems from 2 basic factors: 1) NOONE evaluates all those involved in a virtual conversation (for instance, did you really check I was neither a bot nor a cybernetics expert?) and 2) the vast data collection of AI is way past any reasonable human effort and that makes it different in nature. Most poeple think the plural of anecdote is data - it is not. You know, it's the "don't buy a Ford, they are s**t. I should know, I had 3. Never again!" sort of opinion. To me by default that makes the google/alexa/siri/chatgpt/you.name.it answers more valid than poeple's opinion, until such time one particular individual has shown to know/understand more than them. There is a handful of experts I totally trust on specific topics - more than the machine for sure! But these are better informed than non vetted expert (including known personalities as known does not equate competent) In other words: AI ALREADY has the edge. And the gap will grow at the rate of universal inflation, we will never ever be able to catch up.

That sounds about right to me 👍

I am not disputing this, but for the sake of discussion I need to point out that this is a self-defeating argument : - Ask real poeple, not a robot. - but the robot asked poeple in the first place and repeats their common opinion. - yes but poeple are misinformed therefore the bot repeats wrong information. it automatically follows that "ask real poeple" is bad advise, one cannot have it both ways. My point is that at this stage of technology, the bot's advise is to be considered, surely not as the ultimate answer but at the very least equal or superior to the half baked opinion of Johnny on internet. It does not mean individuals have to agree with the bots answer to a specific question; only that the bot's answer are on average superior to Johnny's. Point in case: this particular bot just passed law school. Most internet users could not, ergo if i have a legal question i am better off asking the bot than appealing to internet and its "real" people. Again, pointing it out just for the sake of friendly argument 🙂

There is an argument to be made that this existing text was written by users for starters and that therefore, the answer provided through machine learning is the most accurately representative of the human group opinion. I will let that here and let you ponder

That sounds like a great pointer, I will investigate that straight away 👍

Ok so I took the whole thing down and had a proper study of what is happening here. Let it be a lesson for everyone! Explanation: The azimut bolts (M6) are obviously pushing on the azimuth pin as they are screwed in. So, when you screw in you push the mount AWAY from the pin. If you screw the left bolt in, it causes the mount to rotate counterclockwise. Seems obvious? It is important to keep it in mind. When I drilled the azimut hole to put the pin in place, rather that taping the hole and screwing the pin, I drilled .5 mm larger and screwed the pin through the disc using the thin bolt originally present. I did not think much about it ; it was an easier way with no foreseable negative consequence. How wrong was I. The azimuth bolts are very, very tired, threads smoothened on bolts and nuts and maybe not as straight as they used to be. Consequently, they have quite a lot of play when not under load. The pin without the thin support bolt is 3mm shorter on the brake disc than the original config. And when you screw the left az.bolt in, the mount rotates counter clock wise. Still with me? The brake disc has more friction than the original bed of the tripod or maybe I over-tightened a bit. In any case, screwing clock-wise which rotates counter-clockwise produces a torque, vertical, downward on the pin. But the pin cannot move down, so the tip of the bolt moved up (it could, because there is so much play) and because the pin is now 3mm shorter, the bold was able to wedge itself between the pin and the roof of the central bolt support. So obviously, the more I tried to screw it in, the more I was wedging it in and my polar alignement was not going smoothly, the azimuth jittering randomly depending on the tension... So here is the lesson: if it does not go as planned, if it does random things that makes no sense, DO.NOT.INSIST. Stop and think. I was just in too much of a hurry to try. I did not take the time to assess. The good news is, I can fix the mount: I will put the thin bolt back where it belongs, for starters. I will tap the M6's into M8's to restaure minimal jitter (plenty of meat around the hole to do that safely) and I will put a tad of vaseline where the mount rests on the disc to avoid unwanted metal friction (and tension) The bad news is, I am a cretin. Not just because I did insist without thinking, but because I had a very similar incident with this same mount last year, and ended up taping the alt.up bolt with an M10, which very much improved the behaviour of the mount. Still did not cross my mind this time!

Nice to meet you 😁

Thanks! Yes, fine disc 🤭 No roll off shed, there is just not the space. I just realized that my azimuth bolts are dead (inner threads of the "nuts" are pretty much smooth) which means I need to do heavy repairs if possible or the mount is dead 😞 A bit gutted but trying to stay positive