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Robrj

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About Robrj

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    Southern California
  1. Robrj

    Binoveiwing Revolution R2?

    I would think they'd need to be the same resolution so Sharpcap can match pixel to pixel. For example, when you switch the binning during live stacking (essentually changing the resolution) it starts the stacking over.
  2. Robrj

    Binoveiwing Revolution R2?

    The next version of Sharpcap (3.2) is reportedly going to be able to monitor a folder as a DSLR workaround (https://forums.sharpcap.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=833). That should work as well. The only other issue would be capturing it. Robin recently stated that Sharpcap can be opened with multiple instances by double-clicking it again and then assigning it a different camera. So you'd need three instances, one for each camera and one to monitor the folder. Then, you'd capture frames with the first two and send them to the monitor folder. Though, I'm not sure how it would tell the difference between two of the same camera when you try to connect them (I don't think it would show two options).
  3. Robrj

    Binoveiwing Revolution R2?

    On a monitor it probably wouldn't make much difference as I don't think the monitor would combine the images. One image frame coming in would just replace the previous one. Plus, unless your cameras are perfectly aligned, you'd see the picture jump as each's frame replaced the other. Depending on how fast your frames come in, it might be rather jittery. It might be a good idea to send them to different monitors or the split monitor like above. Use a filter on one to show the differences (e.g. H-alpha on one camera, no filter on the other). If you sent them to a computer through a common frame grabber, it would possibly stack faster. So you could have it build faster. For example, both imaging at 10 second exposures but offset by 5 seconds. You'd get the longer exposure detail in half the time. Plus, you might get a noise benefit as one camera will likely be different than the other so any hot pixels would average down. I'm not sure how you'd coordinate when the second camera starts.
  4. Robrj

    Summary of IMX Based Cameras

    I would label your images with the camera that was used as well what you have shown. It makes it easier at a glance to see what camera took what image. The way it's written, one might assume the ring nebula was taken with a Malincam or an Altair camera. You might also mention that the lip on the ZWO camera is a 2" diameter so it will fit in a 2" focuser without needing a 1.25" adapter. For a Newtonian, it can give you a little more infocus.
  5. Robrj

    Sombrero, Fireworks and Iris

    They are all pretty clear in the better monitor. In the better monitor, I can see clear, well defined spirals in your Fireworks shot and plenty of nebulosity in the Iris. In your second post, the M104 on the bottom is a bit brighter but the detail looks similar. In the older monitor, the arms of the Fireworks galaxy and the nebulosity in the Iris are much fainter and more difficult to see. In the second post, the second one looks much better in the older monitor.
  6. Robrj

    Sombrero, Fireworks and Iris

    Yes.
  7. Robrj

    Sombrero, Fireworks and Iris

    I have two monitors on my desk at work. In one, I can see the dust lanes easily, in the other, not so much. FWIW, Sharpcap 3.1's latest release can save images in .jpg format (and .tif).
  8. Robrj

    NexStar 6se EAA Recommendations

    I think the 224 would be a good choice. Although the chip isn't that large, it's large enough for live viewing (1304x976). Other than extended nebulae, most objects will be small and should fit in the field of view. If you want a slightly bigger chip, another option is the ASI385MC (1936x1096). It's similar in sensitivity to the ASI224MC but with a slightly larger chip. The only real issue with a smaller chip is if you ever want to print an image, it will be small. But since we're live viewing that wouldn't really be much of an issue.
  9. I doubt it would be the camera or the cable, since they will always produce a mono image. It only turns a color because the software is collecting it as a particular color. The only time I've seen it as black and white was if the exposure mask was set to "All" resulting in the image being sent to all the channels or I checked the "Display Selected" and then chose a particular color channel. If the saturation was all the way down (Color Modifier), that would produce a mono image as well. I'm not sure why a color image would all of the sudden turn mono. It's very strange. Does it happen from the start or does it change after a certain number of exposures? If you save the file and view it with another program, is it black and white? To troubleshoot the software, you could save the resulting image as fits (make sure Display Selected is off or it will save an individual channel, which would be mono). Then open it with another program like fitswork and see if it shows up in color. You could try installing 3.2 and see if that solves the problem: https://bitbucket.org/Paul81/starlightlive/wiki/Home
  10. I doubt it would be the camera or the cable, since they will always produce a mono image. It only turns a color because the software is collecting it as a particular color. The only time I've seen it as black and white was if the exposure mask was set to "All" resulting in the image being sent to all the channels or I checked the "Display Selected" and then chose a particular color channel. If the saturation was all the way down (Color Modifier), that would produce a mono image as well. I'm not sure why a color image would all of the sudden turn mono. It's very strange. Does it happen from the start or does it change after a certain number of exposures? If you save the file and view it with another program, is it black and white? To troubleshoot the software, you could save the resulting image as fits (make sure Display Selected is off or it will save an individual channel, which would be mono). Then open it with another program like fitswork and see if it shows up in color.
  11. Robrj

    Total newbie to VA/EAA

    I don't think you'll see much of a problem with Coma even with the Ultrastar. I've run my 8" f/4.9 Newtonian with a 0.7x focal reducer (f/3.6) and the stars still look okay: Full resolution: https://www.astrobin.com/full/270541/0/?real=&mod=
  12. Robrj

    Total newbie to VA/EAA

    You could try it first with your existing mount and camera to see what kind of results you get. You'll probably get some edge artifacts, especially with the Horizon or your DSLR as they have a big sensor, but you can crop it out. You could probably get away with up to 30 second exposures depending on what part of the sky you're looking at (East/West). I've done up to 35s with my Celestron 130SLT (smaller sensor). Though I have guided in the past, I don't guide on a regular basis. For an EQ mount, depending on how good your polar alignment is, you should be able to get by without guiding up to 1 minute. Your Canon should work with Backyard EOS and Astrotoaster/DSS. This user has some tutorials on using his Canon cameras for Video Astronomy/EAA. He typically does 30 second exposures so an EQ mount might be a reasonable option: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwRg2BjC54F8MEPAaXYsTCA/videos
  13. Robrj

    ZWO ASI294MC Pro

    Those are all unprocessed. I did a quick process of the Flame Nebula/Horsehead with Startools and Photoshop: Full: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329161/B/?real=&mod=
  14. Robrj

    ZWO ASI294MC Pro

    I got a chance to try out my new ZWO ASI294MC Pro last night. These are done with my Orion ED80T-CF/AVX w/Televue 0.8x focal reducer/field flattener and an IDAL LPR-P2 filter: M45 (34x16s, gain 400): Full image: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329176/0/?real=&mod= M42 (213x1s, gain 400): Full image: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329158/0/?real=&mod= M81 & M82 (40x16s, gain 400): Full image: http://www.astrobin.com/full/329178/0/?real= Flame Nebula & Horsehead Nebula (38x16s, gain 400): Full image: http://www.astrobin.com/full/329161/0/?nc=Robrj&real= M97 & M108 (38x16s, gain 400): Full image: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329180/0/?nc=Robrj&real=&mod=
  15. I noticed an error with my Custom Options line: the noplots flag should be no-plots. --sigma 70 --no-plots -N none -H 0.8 -L 0.6 -r --objs 100
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