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Robrj

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About Robrj

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    Star Forming
  • Birthday 05/05/1962

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    Male
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    Southern California
  1. Summary of IMX Based Cameras

    I would label your images with the camera that was used as well what you have shown. It makes it easier at a glance to see what camera took what image. The way it's written, one might assume the ring nebula was taken with a Malincam or an Altair camera. You might also mention that the lip on the ZWO camera is a 2" diameter so it will fit in a 2" focuser without needing a 1.25" adapter. For a Newtonian, it can give you a little more infocus.
  2. Sombrero, Fireworks and Iris

    They are all pretty clear in the better monitor. In the better monitor, I can see clear, well defined spirals in your Fireworks shot and plenty of nebulosity in the Iris. In your second post, the M104 on the bottom is a bit brighter but the detail looks similar. In the older monitor, the arms of the Fireworks galaxy and the nebulosity in the Iris are much fainter and more difficult to see. In the second post, the second one looks much better in the older monitor.
  3. Sombrero, Fireworks and Iris

    Yes.
  4. Sombrero, Fireworks and Iris

    I have two monitors on my desk at work. In one, I can see the dust lanes easily, in the other, not so much. FWIW, Sharpcap 3.1's latest release can save images in .jpg format (and .tif).
  5. NexStar 6se EAA Recommendations

    I think the 224 would be a good choice. Although the chip isn't that large, it's large enough for live viewing (1304x976). Other than extended nebulae, most objects will be small and should fit in the field of view. If you want a slightly bigger chip, another option is the ASI385MC (1936x1096). It's similar in sensitivity to the ASI224MC but with a slightly larger chip. The only real issue with a smaller chip is if you ever want to print an image, it will be small. But since we're live viewing that wouldn't really be much of an issue.
  6. I doubt it would be the camera or the cable, since they will always produce a mono image. It only turns a color because the software is collecting it as a particular color. The only time I've seen it as black and white was if the exposure mask was set to "All" resulting in the image being sent to all the channels or I checked the "Display Selected" and then chose a particular color channel. If the saturation was all the way down (Color Modifier), that would produce a mono image as well. I'm not sure why a color image would all of the sudden turn mono. It's very strange. Does it happen from the start or does it change after a certain number of exposures? If you save the file and view it with another program, is it black and white? To troubleshoot the software, you could save the resulting image as fits (make sure Display Selected is off or it will save an individual channel, which would be mono). Then open it with another program like fitswork and see if it shows up in color. You could try installing 3.2 and see if that solves the problem: https://bitbucket.org/Paul81/starlightlive/wiki/Home
  7. I doubt it would be the camera or the cable, since they will always produce a mono image. It only turns a color because the software is collecting it as a particular color. The only time I've seen it as black and white was if the exposure mask was set to "All" resulting in the image being sent to all the channels or I checked the "Display Selected" and then chose a particular color channel. If the saturation was all the way down (Color Modifier), that would produce a mono image as well. I'm not sure why a color image would all of the sudden turn mono. It's very strange. Does it happen from the start or does it change after a certain number of exposures? If you save the file and view it with another program, is it black and white? To troubleshoot the software, you could save the resulting image as fits (make sure Display Selected is off or it will save an individual channel, which would be mono). Then open it with another program like fitswork and see if it shows up in color.
  8. Total newbie to VA/EAA

    I don't think you'll see much of a problem with Coma even with the Ultrastar. I've run my 8" f/4.9 Newtonian with a 0.7x focal reducer (f/3.6) and the stars still look okay: Full resolution: https://www.astrobin.com/full/270541/0/?real=&mod=
  9. Total newbie to VA/EAA

    You could try it first with your existing mount and camera to see what kind of results you get. You'll probably get some edge artifacts, especially with the Horizon or your DSLR as they have a big sensor, but you can crop it out. You could probably get away with up to 30 second exposures depending on what part of the sky you're looking at (East/West). I've done up to 35s with my Celestron 130SLT (smaller sensor). Though I have guided in the past, I don't guide on a regular basis. For an EQ mount, depending on how good your polar alignment is, you should be able to get by without guiding up to 1 minute. Your Canon should work with Backyard EOS and Astrotoaster/DSS. This user has some tutorials on using his Canon cameras for Video Astronomy/EAA. He typically does 30 second exposures so an EQ mount might be a reasonable option: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwRg2BjC54F8MEPAaXYsTCA/videos
  10. ZWO ASI294MC Pro

    Those are all unprocessed. I did a quick process of the Flame Nebula/Horsehead with Startools and Photoshop: Full: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329161/B/?real=&mod=
  11. ZWO ASI294MC Pro

    I got a chance to try out my new ZWO ASI294MC Pro last night. These are done with my Orion ED80T-CF/AVX w/Televue 0.8x focal reducer/field flattener and an IDAL LPR-P2 filter: M45 (34x16s, gain 400): Full image: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329176/0/?real=&mod= M42 (213x1s, gain 400): Full image: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329158/0/?real=&mod= M81 & M82 (40x16s, gain 400): Full image: http://www.astrobin.com/full/329178/0/?real= Flame Nebula & Horsehead Nebula (38x16s, gain 400): Full image: http://www.astrobin.com/full/329161/0/?nc=Robrj&real= M97 & M108 (38x16s, gain 400): Full image: https://www.astrobin.com/full/329180/0/?nc=Robrj&real=&mod=
  12. I noticed an error with my Custom Options line: the noplots flag should be no-plots. --sigma 70 --no-plots -N none -H 0.8 -L 0.6 -r --objs 100
  13. Don't you need to do an alignment to get CdC or Stellarium to work with the mount?
  14. I think with Nexremote, if you do the alignment, it's the same as doing it with the hand controller. I've not used it as it's not compatible with Starsense.
  15. For mine, I do my usual alignment and then use Astrotortilla, so I would have done what you did at the end first. For the AVX, I use Starsense so the scope aligns automatically but with my 130SLT, I just do a manual alignment with the hand controller. After that point, I can control it with Stellarium and plate solve with Astrotortilla after the goto.
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