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About Adrena1in

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    Winchester, Hants.
  1. Nice start, what did you use to take the image?
  2. Hi all, got a question about the above and wonder if someone can perhaps assist. I'm very new to solar imaging, and am doing what I can with a Coronado PST and QHY5L-II Colour. I understand it's not the best setup, but it's what I currently have. I'm using EZPlanetary software, because it's what came on the disk with the camera, and mostly I'm sticking with the highest resolution and colour mode on, with the GR setting selected. That's fine to get me started and I'm producing results I'm not completely disappointed with. (Considering my PST is on an old EQ2, and I'm controlling it manually, I can't complain - my AVIStacks of 200, 500 or even 1000 frame AVIs are working pretty well, so...) My issue is when I select Mono mode. The screen preview instantly becomes pixelated, as though a grid is being drawn over the sun disk, and videos contain this grid. When I try to stack the AVI it's like a 400-piece chessboard has been stamped over the final image...hundreds of light and dark squares everywhere. Now I know a Mono camera would be a better choice, and that might be the direction I go in. However, I've read several reviews of the QHY5L-II-Colour and people often say they get it set up in Colour mode, then switch to Mono for taking the videos, clearly suggesting it's of benefit to do so. I'm just wondering where I'm going wrong and getting such appalling results when I do this. Thanks, Tim.
  3. I see where you're coming from. Yesterday, after work, I experimented a little and took some 320x200, 1000 frame AVIs with my QHY5L and 2x Barlow. Wanted to focus on some interesting surface areas. Only took a few seconds to create each AVI, which is benficial for me as I'm still using manual adjustments on my crumby EQ2. While the little stacked images were nothing to write home about, it did occur to me that I could create dozens of them to gradually build up a full disk mosaic, which might not look too bad.
  4. Simply staggering! I'd not heard of these Quark eyepieces, but they look amazing. You can just bung one into any telescope, add an eyepiece, and view the sun in h-alpha? Dear Santa...
  5. Is it wrong that I see a topless lady having a swim!!??
  6. Interesting, I was looking at this PST a couple of weeks ago, and just now I see it's been listed again, "due to a timewaster". I was a little tempted as a PST Bino was something I'd considered trying to create. Suddenly though, I feel like maybe I was robbed by paying £465 for mine, secondhand.
  7. Hi there, hope you don't mind, but I've just PM'd you about the adapter. I've got the exact same items as you for my Stage 1 mod, except an adapter to connect the Evostar 90mm tube to the PST. Be interested to hear more about this John at JTechDesign.
  8. Awesome images, and I love the inverted false colour one as well...somehow looks more "real" than the false colour one, if that makes sense. I like the "smiley face" area on the sun, and I managed to capture it last night, (though nowhere near the sort of detail you managed.) This is certainly making want to get a shift on with my Stage 1 mod. Have come to a bit of a standstill though, as I don't see an easy way of attaching my 90mm Evostar to the PST. :/
  9. I like the second image, and you're certainly getting better prominence results than I am. I'm using a QHY5L-II with my PST. Don't worry though, if you're disheartened to start with, perseverance will see your images improving. I started with my Canon EOS 450D, and could only achieve focus by removing the little ERF filter, which I wasn't too happy about. Could get the full disk in easily, but hardly any detail to speak of. The QHY5L is fine if I only slide it a short way into the blocking filter/eyepiece holder, but can't quite fit the full disk in. Almost, but not quite. Using a cheap Barlow works okay, but I'm thinking a Tal might be next on the purchase list, if you say they're that much better. My main problem at the moment is creating a mosaic. Not tried Microsoft ICE though. I've tried iMerge, Photoshop and Autostitch, and while the first two work to some effect, (Autostich, which I use a lot for landscapes, usually can't seem to match solar images together at all for me), I'm finding blending around the edges to be difficult.
  10. This gives me real hope. I recently acquired a PST and would love to take photos though it, though I'm having a job deciding which camera to start with. Tried my DSLR, but the results have been pretty rubbish. Have considered the QHY5L, as they're not too pricey, and your images have made up my mind. Can I ask though, is it the mono camera, and you've added false colour afterwards, or is it the colour camera? Thanks, Tim.
  11. They look great Russ, I'll take a set please!
  12. Hi all, Has anyone here successfully carried out an Autoguide Mod for the standard Skywatcher EQ6? I found instructions and tried to do this myself, but it's going wrong and I don't know why. I followed the instructions in this link here -> http://www.store.shoestringastronomy.com/eq_mod.pdf Although my hand-controller looks slightly different, (my power connector goes into the mount), the circuit board looks identical. Mount still works as normal, but as soon as I connect my Skywatcher Synguider the DEC drive fires into life and doesn't stop. I tried hooking up my laptop and the same thing happened. Then I read somewhere that the Ground wire should be soldered in a different place to the instructions above...to the pin right next to where the red wire's connected. So I tried that, but the same result...DEC axis just goes crazy. I've removed all the cables for now, but I would be very interested to hear from anyone who's successfully modded their EQ6 like this. Thanks, Tim.
  13. A good way to check the collimation is to point at a star and take the scope completely out of focus. What you want to see is a blur that looks like a CD...a round disc with a black hole right in the centre. If the blur isn't round and the black hole isn't in the middle, your telescope needs collimating. Also, these out of focus views of stars show heat turbulence in your telescope nicely...they'll shimmer and waver until your scope cools down. Finally, bed seeing conditions can play a major role in planetary viewing. When Mars was at its closest recently, I'd just picked up a Celestron C11. First night out was appalling. Seemed collimated, had been outside for hours to cool down, but all I saw was a boiling red blob, and I was so disappointed. Few nights later though...WOW!! Good luck.
  14. Hee hee, nice one. I got up at abotu 4am this morning and noticed Jupiter looking extremely bright out my bedroom window. Sadly by the time it would've taken me to set my scope up the sun would have risen. Perhaps I should put the scope up tonight in preparation and then set my alarm for 3:30am.
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