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jimbo747

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Everything posted by jimbo747

  1. Superb. You can get better images through thick cloud with the sun out than I can in crystal clear night
  2. Selling my SLT controller, upgraded to a star sense so no longer needed. Photos here on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143144695991?ViewItem=&item=143144695991
  3. I've just bought that exact lens for £40 off ebay, yet to try it out but that image is fantastic! I'll be using mine with a cheapo SLT mount and inferior 1300d (which I'll be modding) but 30s at that focal length should be do-able. I've seen a few posts where shooting at f/4 isn't that great and you don't like the resulting stars (I love diffraction spikes personally ). Was there much CA to deal with in processing?
  4. Just wanted to say it looks fantastic, love the remote focuser. Don't think price is the issue. If you're moving further up north try relisting when you're nearer civilisation
  5. Selling my 1100d modded by myself. In decent condition, small bit of damage to plastic where I missed a screw during modding, but doesn't affect performance and is reflected in price. Attached to hotshoe is a red dot finder, probably needs another battery. Included is a battery and charger. Price £99 ono plus delivery (probably £5 or so for first class) or collection from belper, Derbyshire. I can include an unused Hoya IR UV filter which fits canon lenses for a tenner extra (£40 or so on Amazon)
  6. Superb. Wouldn't look out of place on the 'proper' imaging forum. Give it a few years and I really think cameras will be sensitive enough to mean an EQ mount isn't required.
  7. Shouldn't be that hard. Align the starsense first, then centre an object on the DSLR and alter the starsense to recognise this as the centre. Worked on my mak using this method and that reliably centered Jupiter with a camera. Maybe attaching an RDF to the hotshoe could help as well if it's completely out.
  8. I'm about to list my trusty 1100d full spectrum mod this weekend (modified myself) on here and ebay, and I'll include a couple of batteries and an SD card. Also has a hot shoe adapter to mount a RDF. Bit of damage to the case where I forgot to remove a screw and got a bit forceful (was the first camera I modified), but doesn't impact on use. Infact I'll argue it will improve airflow Looking for £120 inc delivery. I can include a zoom lens and hoya IR/UV filter for another £20. Otherwise I'm about to modify a pristine 1300d, again full spectrum, and will be looking for £220inc delivery
  9. Some good idea there, looks like I'll have to go 'A Team' on it! For some reason I never considered a diy plywood approach, got some spare 12mm in the shed Thanks all.
  10. The dovetail bar has a gap running through it already so no need to drill, but how would I attach the lens to a screw? Would a variation of this work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0030VHCEI/ref=asc_df_B0030VHCEI58589890/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B0030VHCEI&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310510252538&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4511256290345168694&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046376&hvtargid=aud-543273805630:pla-575655031852
  11. I have an SLT mount and 127 mak. Previously I had mounted my modded DSLR and light zoom lens to the mak using rings. Got some ok results, but aligning was a faff and wasn't happy with the lens quality with too much CA to deal with in processing. I now have a starsense which makes aligning a breeze and I'm up and running in a few minutes observing with the mak. I have a decent Takuma 200mm F/4 lens which has a bit of weight to it - far too much for the mount to handle. I therefore want to to mount the DSLR, Lens and star sense directly to the mount rather than piggyback. I have a dovetail bar like this: http://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/accessories/dovetails/deluxe-vixen-style-photo-dovetail-kit/ I can screw the camera on using the tripod hole, however with the lens its far too heavy to be secure. I guess I need some sort of adapter to hold the lens in place too so its held in by 2 screws. I also want to attach a synta style findershoe mount so I can attach the starsense, is there a ready made adapter to allow me to mount directly? The other issue I might face is that where the dovetail bar meets the mount, the mount protrudes quite high so can't mount the the camera at the same point where the dove tail meets the mount, I have to position it either fore or aft. If anyone has done anything similar please let me know!
  12. How did you connect the camera to the lens, and then the whole assembly to the scope? (Sorry to go OT, I used to attach my DSLR using rings to my 127slt but it's too heavy for the mount.
  13. That would bug me not knowing I wonder if you could extrapolate their paths based on their orbit. Do KBO all move at the same velocity? There's actually a 3rd object, much fainter directly in line with Plutos path between the top left object and Pluto itself.
  14. Found this image fascinating, did you ever find out what the two large objects were? Haven't logged in to SGL for about 12 months but I just needed to know ;)
  15. And that's why Amazon are still top of the customer service pile.
  16. Apologies to anyone in Derbyshire. Since my starsense arrived 2 weeks ago there hasn't been a single clear night, it's still on the box in fact. I'm off out Friday, so of course it's forecast to be crystal
  17. Modding a 1100d was incredibly easy - just make sure you follow the tutorials properly. I didn't and therefore ended up with a full spectrum mod instead of just the IR glass, so cost me another £40 on top for an IR UV filter! There's a seller on eBay who often sells faulty dSLRs, mine had a faulty autofocus so only cost £70. There's bargains around if you can spot them!
  18. Can't get behind the scope to align by sight, need to use a combination of the dSLR to find a bright star, finder scope with webcam to get closer and then with APT and sharpcap try and get a star bang in the middle of the 224mc tp get goto spot on- not easy to do with a 2.5 Barlow on a slow scope when the 224mc, ps3 eye cam and 1100d don't exactly line up. Decided to do what i normally do when i have a problem, chuck money at it. Got a starsense and Bluetooth serial adapter arriving Monday, just in time for a fortnight of cloud. (They both on Amazon which swung it for me and massively cheaper than elsewhere, there's one starsense left in stock now @£269). Probably have to get skysafari now.
  19. Seething. Raging even. Last night I decided to properly sort my scope out, focused the mak with barlow and 224mc ready for some jupiter shots, attached the IR and UV cut to my 1100d, perfect focus at 10-12 degrees, spot on alightment, set scope to park, connected via my remote intel nuc in my mini observatory ready for tonight. Moon looks good, jupiter now above houses, will see orion, lovely calm night, best one this year. Turn on mount, get laptop and a glass of wine and boot up teamviewer... no connection. Try another laptop and same... Just read as of 10 minutes ago teamviewer down for 8 hours of maintenance!!! Just my nonefamilyfriendlyword-ing luck!!! Remote desktop not setup. None of the software setup on my laptop and I'd have to do another alignment which is a pain to do without line of sight (took an hour last night). I just wanted to use the 224mc and modified dslr for the first time, and the Gods are laughing at me. If something happens tomorrow night, theres a free keter max storage box, raspberry pi with linear actuator, SLT mount, 127 mak, 1100d, asi 224mc, intel NUC and a load of filters, web cameras and storage cases available for collection from derbyshire FOC.
  20. I have my 127 SLT setup in a mini observatory for last 6 months but never used as frustrated in getting nexremote to work properly as well as cameras (although today I finally pulled my finger out and have found out it's the Intel nuc / windows computer that has the issues rather than the mount) I want to be able to remotely align and control the mount remotely. I currently have the serial cable plugged in to the handset (which has worked ok in past at old house) I have a 224mc connected to the scope, and a 1100d piggy backing on top, as well as a ps3 eye cam on the guide scope all connected to the PC. I was planning on using the dSLR at 100mm FL in conjunction with the 3 star auto alignment to get things rolling but so far it's just been frustrating (plus I'd need to manually adjust the zoom lens to 200mm+ and focus again once aligned for the target defeating the purpose of me controlling it remotely. Which brings me on to my next frustration of not getting stellarium to place nicely with my scope. Haven't managed a single image this year. Manual alignment using eyeball mk1 is impossible because of where the scope is positioned. I've looked at starsense, but am i right in thinking this doesn't work with PC control / nexremote? I then looked at the celestron WiFi dongle thing but it's over £100, then read today that sky safari with a Bluetooth adapter (£25 from amazon) can control my scope although i still need to align it first. Is it possible to use star sense and skysafari / Bluetooth adapter? Is it as accurate as a manual 3 star align? What other solutions are there? I just want Alexa to open my observatory (the only part that does actually work) resume from park mode, have it auto align, and then hand over slew control to either my android phone or pc, i select a target, check focus and adjust with the raspberry pi and then start imaging, all while sat in my pants on the sofa.
  21. Yo have exposure set to 2.4s (don't know how icap works but presume it overrides the 24fps.) In anything but pitch black that is way too high. In broad daylight try less than 50ms, image should look a bit dim, and then either turn the focus knob either way until something appears. I have the exact same scope and the knob seems to turn for ages before reaching the end. Another slightly quicker way is move the camera in / out of the focuser by hand until you have a rough image - just bear in mind the view is tiny. In fact, if you have a 6mm eyepiece try and focus with that first and something a bit distant (at least 50m, pref on horizon), and then replace with the camera, it won't be too far off.
  22. Best way of trying any camera out is in the day. If you point the camera (take out of scope for now) at a light source does the image go brighter on screen? If so, the camera is working, it'll be because of focus and / or exposure settings. Try it on scope during day and point it at a landmark somewhere in the distance Also what software are you using, I've had best success with sharpcap.
  23. Well if you happen to find out, please let me know (mines a SLT mount but imagine should work the same). Don't know whether to get the wireless adapter instead, or both... Stellarium no longer playing with my mount so it's sat outside unused for 6 months. Cheers James
  24. With starsense can you control the scope remotely still like with pc stellarium or mobile app?
  25. Not bought one yet, but I've been recommended something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARL-ZEISS-JENA-S-SONNAR-3-5-135mm-MC-MULTI-COATED-LENS-M42-MOUNT/172591898490?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40656%26meid%3Ddae58869f7ee467a8e3ff9b2ac4510c7%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D391629261458 Just need an m42 to ef adapter which you can find on amazon / ebay for a fiver.
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