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Posts posted by Catanonia

  1. Congrats on the purchase.

    My QHY9 is fixed again after a good clean by myself. Water ingress more than likely was the issue.

    The QHY8's have a very good reputation, the QHY9's can be a bit temper mental, but if looked after right, they are a great camera for the money. £1800 for the CCD on a 8300 chip and 2inch filter wheel and filter set can be bad.

    Congrats on the Atik though, my next CCD might be one of them.

  2. woohoo got the CCD fixed. Decided to give it one more go and stripped it all and cleaned all the CCD connectors with a fine toothbrush and acetone as this is the common problem with the QHY9 if water gets into it. Corrosion of the contacts. I did this a few times and failed, so this time really went to town on it and dried it under a hot lamp.

    Put it back together and took a dark and Bingo :(

    Working again now :(

  3. Mick

    I tend to agree with you to a point.

    You can do AP cheaply, but too cheap gives poor and frustrating results. I have found that I buy what I can afford, and I have a good job so it does allow me to do so. Every purchase I have made has made big differences, up to a limiting point where I would need to throw thousands at it to progress more.

    But ultimately, the best results come from moving house and getting to a dark site area. Reduce all those gradients, get away from the LP.

    The next part and I would say a good 30% is processing as said by others. Yes it can be done cheaply, but PixInsight in the right hands is an amazing tool but at £150 again you pay.

    I admire those that DIY thier tubes, barn door trackers etc, but ultimately in general you get what you pay for in this hobby.

    /Cat awaits the flames

  4. Amazing resolution there lads, nice to see combined and reworked data. Tip of day, never throw away any data..

    The colours are gorgeous and agree the little spiral really adds to it.

    Don't think there is much more you could do on this image mate.

  5. Thanks all for the kind comments.

    Olly : Yeah only 3 hours, 45 mins per channel in 3 min subs, when it is on song, this scope is quick with a captial Q :(

    Not too fussed about the CCD as long as it doesn't cost me too much, this time of year only about 3 hours or less of proper imaging time and so much to do over the next few months anyway. Nice to get a break and sleep :)

    NightVision : The QHY9 has been a great camera, just after 18 months developed a fault on a board that Modern and I have been trying to self fault find. Now it is time to go back to QHY to be done properly. 50 - 50 whether I would buy again, but probably would due to the price and the 2 inch filter set.

  6. This is going to be my last image for sometime as my CCD is broken again and needs to be shipped back to the manufacturer. So will definately be a few months before I image again. Not too bad with the late evenings in the summer. Allow me to concentrate on my new hobby, Golf :(

    So here is 45mins per channel LRGB in 3 min subs with the TS Super Newt @ F2.8

    I really wanted to get even more data on this other than 3 hours, but the CCD packed in and that was that.

    Subs : 45min in 3m subs per channel = 3hours total.

    Scope : TS SuperNewt 200mm @F2.8

    CCD : QHY9 Mono with 2inch filters

    Guide : TS OAG, QHY5, NEQ6Pro and PHD

    Software : Processed with PI and CS5

    I hope you like


  7. At F2.8 I guess everything is pretty quick (comapritively!) but if this is dirty my attempts must be stinking awful!!!!!! (which they are haha :))

    I SERIOUSLY love the work you are pumping out of that powernewt - fabulous

    thanks mate, gives me encouragement even with all the flat issues are am having at the moment.

  8. OK. It's clear now. I had the same issue with Atik. 3 seconds would not do. Nor would t-shirts. Take paper A4 or A3 format - a few lists will sort this out. Make sure exposure is 5-6 seconds. If you do this with artificial light one flat will do. If it's sky flats then take a break after each shot - 5 seconds at least.

    Good luck. I hope you cam fix this soon.


    Thanxs Mark, will try this..

  9. Thanks all, reading and still trying to digest.

    The QHY9 Monon uses a mechanical shutter and perhaps the shapes are due to shutter interaction. I will try to dim even more and take flats. Problem is getting a dim enough light source (already 2 white teashirts over the scope) to give ADU readings around 23,000 and 3 - 4 seconds.

    Will see if I can take much longer flats and see if that solves the problem.

    In the meantime, still reading and working out what you guys have said, so many thanks.


  10. I'm working on the downloads.

    I've Pixel mathed the Lum and the flat. It appears there's no problem with the software. I get the same effect.

    I'll carry on investigating shortly.

    DBE is great but it would be nice to kill the problem at source. It would be a devil to sort with an image full of Nebulae.


    Thanks mate, I am at a loss as to what it is. My guess would be the flats but I don't know.

  11. Ok here are the original images

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10801850/Astro%20Pictures/MASTER%20FLAT.tif flat. These were 31 sky flats combined together to make a master flat. Taken on same image train before session started

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10801850/Astro%20Pictures/NGC7023-001L.fit raw image in luminance

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10801850/Astro%20Pictures/NGC7023-001L_c.fit calibrated raw with the flat

    Thanks for any help you can offer, should have posted these initially :) DOH

  12. Is it the mono camera you are using ?

    If so, does the histogram of the flats always have 5 distinct columns and show as an RGB image ?

    That flat doesn't make sense to me unless you've altered it substantially when you wrote on it.


    It is a mono CCD and perhaps the stretch and conversion to JPG has caused this.

    I will get some more examples and post the originals on dropbox

  13. Guys,

    I have been racking my head over this for months now and I just need some pointers.

    I keep getting on my SuperNewt a strange dark arc and hotspot of over brightness on every single image, no matter what target, what moon condition, what light condition, it is always there on every single image in the exact same place.

    I have attached 3 files.

    1. Flat

    2. Raw Image

    3. Calibrated with the flat only

    4. Number 2 stretched and DBE in PI to really show the problem

    I have tried the following as it looks like a light leak, but I can't work it out.

    1. Remove dew shield

    2. Cover the rear mirror cell with a dark cloth to stop stray light getting in the back

    3. Cover the whole CCD / OAG unit with black cloth in case it was getting in there.

    4. Messed with all different methods of flats, from panels, sky flats, laptops.

    5. Moved the TS OAG turrent incase that was causing relections being in wrong position in train.

    None of these has worked, I always get the same pattern on every image so much so I have to push DBE on these images to tolerance of well over 5 from default of 0.5

    My last resort will be to strip the scope and blacken the primary and secondary mirror edges.

    Perhaps it is something to do with F2.8 and I am being to precise, but I hate having this arc across all of my calibrated images, I can process how I would like to.

    It is a real pain, can anyone offer any suggestions please ?





  14. My works laptop with all my demo's has died on me, so complete rebuild and all the demo's needed :)

    On the plus side, sat in my office with remote connection to observatory outside and just finished some sky flats for my crack at the Iris Nebula on the SuperNewt.

    So sat with beers, watching files copy on the laptop and also watching the subs roll in from outside.

    Not too bad I suppose, already told the wifey I will be ignoring her tonight, bless her.

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