Dear mates,

my  recent attempt with Samyang 135mm on Dolphin nebula with Optolong L- extreme filter  and a Sony A7 camera.

CS

Rush

Optolo-eXtreme

Well,

dithering + Lp filter is more essential than long cooling intervals in my experience.

Keep ISO low, for instance 400, exposure time 120 seconds and shoot one or many nights the same object.

Try not to use Live view screen. Its quiet true what mate Alacant says.

On the other hand if u r really concerned about cooling the camera, use a table FAN and blow on the Camera at a slow rotation naturally.

Cheers

Rush

This is a new attempt with Samy 135mm fully open and Canon 5D . Processed without cali frames, laziness amazes me.

CS

Rush

This image of Lagoon & Co is with Sammy 85mm and Sony A7.  Lens is quiet heavy for an 85 mm, works fine.

Cs

Rush

16 hours ago, Adam J said:

It went down because it automatically bins the pixels below gain 120.

Ah, interesting. my brain pixels too binned now.😜 manually. Humming teach ur children well.

2 hours ago, Adam J said:

Never use a gain of less than 120 on the ASI294mc pro as it alters how it reads the pixels.

Hi Adam,

 had this Camera for 6 months, tried the unity gain ( corresponding 120 s) in SGP. Result was extrem Col.noise and stars were kind of overexposed , RGB histogram by far misaligned .

In the course of time, turned down the gain to 70 and from 300s to 180s and the C.noise dramaticaly went down . This is purely my expeirence. I cant try this again as I sold off this cam.

 Was trying to combine the lum from CCD with CMOS OSC. In the end I gave up,  lol.

Adam , did you use this camera or did u check personaly how the gain values respond ? Curious 2 know, probably my handling was wrong. This was my low gain attempt HLRGB.

cheers

Rush

Hi,

Reduce the gain, start from 60 or 70 instead of 120. Off set leave at default. Frames @180s or below.

Use an IR cut filter.

Cleaned up ur image without cali frames, Im allergic to cali frames 😩.

Hope this helps.

This is an HALRGB version Orion taken with Sammy 135mm and SBIG ST-8300M.

Was a windy night , focus shiffting at regular intervals. Star spikes, not thin edged due to

vibration i guess.

CS

Rush

This is what remains after cleaning up.

RGB channels

R

G

B

CS

9 hours ago, ZiHao said:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zv6m8a9vvmon0xo/done.TIF?dl=0

👌 K.

Can u upload a stacked image right out of APP or DSS. Not touchiing the saturation silder ?

CS

On 20/06/2019 at 20:35, Kaydubbed said:

Ah I use a ZWO set for now at 7nm  with my asi183mm and noticed my frames were soft in Ha detail on NGC7000 but I totally just blamed the poor transparency.  I should stop to F4 and see if I have improvements. I'm sure it will improve but k already regret that loss of light at F4!

Added 3 hrs of Ha and O3 to the Sony DSLR image fully wide open at F2. My eyes cannot see the occilation nor the incoherence of the light signal.

Cant say overall SNR s improved or aggravated the phase distortion by the filters . The colours look different and some of those dust lanes, star colours vanished and Nebula itself became more dense. 

Baader 7 nm and Baader F/2 High speed O3 filter were used.

CS

Rush

DSLR image

N band added.

Southern beauties 🤩 with Sony A7 and Canon 600D

Antares region

LMC

Cats paw and Lobster

Running chicken

CS

Rush

Hi,

Roberto on Astrobin uses Fs 60 CB . You can take a look at his collection of Images with FS60. https://www.astrobin.com/360918/?nc=user

well, I have used a couple of them too, Its quiet sharp and focus remains kind of steady even at temp fluctuations.

Somtime back i wanted to dispose one of mine.

Adding one more Samyang  image. ( 3 hrs with a Sony A7)

CS

Rush

6 hours ago, rickwayne said:

 just breathe and repeat The 183 Mantra:

  It calibrates out.

  It calibrates out.

  It calibrates out.

But you certainly do want darks at exactly that gain, temp, and exposure!

My Mantra is ,

No califrames, No Califrames, No Califrames. go away amp glow . Dont ask me why , this is humming in my head every time i start processing, may be cos Im lazy.

ASI294MC PRO  + Takumar 135 mm lens . HA /OXY injected to OSC. No Califrames🤩

Takumar 135 mm lens makes halos around bright stars.Stars r not round my laziness with guiding.(used previous night caliberation )

But was fun fiddling around with this OSC camera.

CS

Rush

On 13/04/2019 at 10:22, laser_jock99 said:

I've looked at buying this lens as a possible replacement for my ageing Nikon ED180 F2.8 which was the recomended fast widefield AP lens in its day.

I don't want to hook it up to a CCD- so has anyone got any unprocessed, full frame DSLR images at F2 to post? I'd like to see if it is an improvement on the 'slow' old Nikon! And also how well it handles CA- one of the Nikons failings (on my lens at least) was issues with CA wide open. I found I had to stop down to F4 and use a Lumicom Minus Violet filter (almost half the cost I paid for the lens!!).

This is a Sony full frame A7 in jpeg, If you want a raw frame i will add. Hope this helps,

CS

Rush

10 hours ago, Adreneline said:

Hi Rush.

I bought the belt from MotionCo - along with the various pulley components, etc.

I don't think I will be going for the electronic option thank you; I prefer the simple approach

Good luck with sourcing an appropriate belt.

Adrian

Thanks Adrian , and happy imaging,

Cs

Rush

1 hour ago, Adreneline said:

I've had my 135mm a year now and used it primarily with an Atik428ex and more recently a ASI1600MM-Pro.

This is the Heart and Soul using the ASI1600; 15x120s + 15x180s at unity gain, offset 50. I really like the wide field of view offered by this combination.

I use a fairly manual setup - manual filter change and semi-manual focussing using a homemade stepper motor system.

Thanks for looking.

Adrian

Looks nice , i want to assemble a similar stepper motor focuser , but was unable to find that rubber belt. You have any idea where i can buy one of those.

Once i had that filter tray , i replaced with Atik  ew 2. Makes the struggle a lot easier Adrian. With ASI 1600 a lot more easier attaching the electric filterwheel.

Spacing is almost perfect.

cheers

Rush

Toy arrangement till the recuurence of dismantel sickness

On 10/04/2019 at 07:31, RolandKol said:

Nah... he leaves no room for EFW and my autofocuser... 

Plus his camera left hanging... I am almost sure it will introduce tilt... I saw one model on his web, were bracket at last Holds ASI1600MM properly,

but this bracket will have no use for my Canon and even EFW!!!

 So if I will need to buy from him, I will end up with 2 brackets and with: + manual focus, +manual filter change.

Not the way I want to go.

My PDS is collimated, not perfect, but Close enough to make me happy  

And we have plenty of Cloudy Nights to make a Proper Bracket with the place for all the automation my toys have and one for both cameras 

True , about autofocuser. but you can find  a way around. Filterwheel is not a problem , the one  i use s quiet heavy still it doesnt tilt in any direction.

Two brackets comes with a Vixen style D.tail and the guidescope clamp acts as a reinforcement. Maybe on the reinforcement some modification to attach the A.focuser?

11 hours ago, RolandKol said:

At F2 exposures will be Strongly Location + Camera Dependant isn't it?

I cannot go longer than 30sec @ISO100 with my Canon 1300D in Woolwich.... And ISO100 is very noisy...

Thinking of stepping down to F4, till I manage to print my bracket/holder for ASI1600

Use a LP filter screwd infront of the lens , works fine.

Dithering is a must for DSLR,s. to reduce noise.

B 4 u print out  bracket/ holder, buy from Phillipe in France. http://www.astrokraken.fr/samyang-135mm-f-2-c30078976,  well made , i use it.  hope this helps. This will provide you more time for PDS Collimation?135mm f:2 bracket + micro-focuser

12 hours ago, Knight of Clear Skies said:

@Rush - Are you sure that image of the Pleiades and California was taken with the Samyang? That looks more like a 50mm shot to me.

1000% .

Shot with Sony A7 and Samyang , around 15 frames  @ 300s iso 800.

Cone N, with SBIG ST 8300 M .

R & G ,3 frames @ 300s, B 6 frames  @  300s, Ha  12 frames  @ 600s.

Rosette N , same as above.

Cheers

This lens is always a pleasure to use, great performance and handling is uncomplicated. Sometimes i use in combination with Asahi Takumar 135 mm for HaLRGB.

Cs

Rush

3 hours ago, RolandKol said:

It looks like you will not be able to see the primary mirror holders via Cheshire just like me!
Have fun!  hehe

I hope I am not right  as this makes life much more difficult....

I even tried to place my ASI224MC directly into the draw-tube, as 224MC body is actually 2" and it fits perfectly,

but... I did not like what I saw... Still cannot understand why the view was of-center...
Will repeat it next week will post some pics.

Swear i cant blame the drawtube or the eyepeace holder as Cheshire CT is held by a ring holder (no thumb screws)

I wish too u r not right, it was hours when all this began, slowly its turning into days ?